Video

Did you get anywhere? I'm dealing with this problem as we speak..I hope since you put this video up 3 months ago you are not still scratching your head looking at it as I am

How dd you treat the interior of the sauna? And do you do it annually?

Πως συνδεω ντιζα γκαζι 9.9tzohnoson

Excellent. No bullshit, just good information/demonstration. I wish more how-to videos were like this.

ever proceed with this?

There was nothing wrong with that winch apart from the broken spring . Everything else was working properly. The large hand wheel has its centre thread running FREELY on the centre shaft, As the large hand wheel is rotated clockwise, the large wheel moves in on the centre thread to compress the brake pads on the ratchet wheel which will rotate to pull the boat up, while the ratchet spring loaded lock engages as it should do when the large hand wheel stops, To bring the boat down, the large hand wheel is rotated anticlockwise, this finds the ratchet locked and so the centre thread in the hand wheel is undone freeing the brake pads and hence the dropping load will back rotate the centre shaft till the brake pads are squeezed in, this time by the inner shaft and not by the large hand wheel, For that large wheel to be safer, it should be loaded on one side so that gravity will help it not to fully rotate so easily, This weight unbalance in the large hand wheel will make that winch safer. Also you did not lubricate the most important parts, and those are the BEARINGS especially the one on the cable drum shaft. The additional bolt and spring and distance piece at the centre of the large hand wheel are merely devices which will not permit the large hand wheel be screwed back off its centre thread. YOu did wrong in screwing the large hand wheel with the bolt in the gears as that hand wheel should be free on its shaft to go in and out, Basically , if that large hand wheel had an off balance weight it would have held that boat even if the spring on the ratchet was broken, provided that the system was well lubricated, I shall let the readers work out the reason why the off balance weight and gravity on the large hand wheel would help to cause it go in to squeeze the brake pads, I do wish that such logic would be presented in all our junior schools where the depth of what exists working in silence and unseen is even more elegant and beautiful than any vociferous statement uttered by all those vociferous professions which never guarantee any service they give. In modern times people spend more time being surrounded operating engineering devices which need absolute guaranteed logic, rather than being serviced by those vociferous emotional professions which never guarantee their services including, philosophers, poets, priests, popes, politicians, pilots, prostitutes, teachers, lawyers, surgeons, medical doctors, entertainers. People accept and are willing to pay handsomely for unguaranteed services from any of these emotional professions and other sentimental social services , but all people insist that all their engineering tangible devices must be guaranteed and what is more, they want them at the cheapest price while operating them without ever having any appreciation of the beauty and elegance of their true form and function. That is the modern life. We have accepted to become operators but not "comprehenders"! What is more, all engineering appliances we used, in and out of our homes are to be considered as being "engineered prosthetic aids" wrapped and operated by people, all born with a congenital disorder relative they jobs they need to do, and the speed they want to travel, No one goes around naked in his birthday suit, but all we wear is engineering related, including shoes and underwear and knives and forks and toilet paper. It is such a pity that most people who are so keen to be proud owners of engineering devices really do not know how they work nor appreciate their invisible beauty and wonders, all working in silence. Most people do not even understand what makes an engineer, but they are willing to respect all social professions who deal in emotions and sentiments and never guarantee what service they offer to the public, including religions. and politics and lawyers and doctors and pilots and teachers and so many more, This would make a nice debating motion to discuss at any university in any country,.

Fender Service Bulletin Number 9 identifies that issue as "improper lead dress, (unnecessarily long wiring and bad wire routing) in the tremolo circuit. An added cap helps too. Do a web search for that bulletin for further details.

This should be in the sacred texts of dad hood as a pure example of recreational man. If the video archive is distilled it can produce leisuremans serum, an antidote against shrewd wives or lamenting children

That link from the butterfly valve to that roller looks too short may be incorrect one from another model. That roller should be barely touching that plate at a raised mark when throttle control is at “start” good luck. These Are great engines don’t get rid of it. From the looks of it ou have a very nice one!

Keep your hand out of the wayof the camera.

Ever get his figured out? I just picked one up that sat 15 years and wasn't running. Rebuilt the carb, new condensers, spark plug wires and plugs, but runs like yours at idle after running for a bit. Needle adjusents have some effect, but not as much as i though they would. Wondering if my gas/oil mix is too rich.

If you first heat it up with a torch and quench it it won't split.

Thank you👍

that roller cam way off from cam roller arm is distorted you could run that screw all the way and it still would be off best case order new roller assembly worst case take heat gun and try to shape that one back to right form

🤣

looks great

Awesome video!

Hey Peter, what happened to this awesome project? That model is my favorite of all the Starcrafts, I own a 1970 Starchief myself. Do you still have the boat?

This is an EFI engine. If you winterize with 2gallons of gas and the Yamaha Ring Free, Yamaha Fuel Treatment Stabilizer and the EFI fogging oil (all 3 mixed with the 2 gallons of fresh non-ethanol gas) and run for 20 minutes in the fall you SHOULD NOT drain that VST. That tank will hold this mix and keep the tank and filter lubricated and protected. The tank draining is meant to provide fresh fuel in the spring and drain the fuel in the fall before transferring then treated fuel for fogging. Also, the tank is drained in the VST filter needs to be changed or the fuel pump needs to be replaced. Draining that tank and leaving it dry all winter is a disaster waiting to happen. Drain it for fogging and start-up in the spring (when you transfer fresh treated fuel with Ring Free and fuel stabilizer. Do not leave it empty during winter storage. If the gas is treated with stabilizer, Ring Free and Fogging treatment, you don't even need to drain it in the spring. Just transfer fresh fuel and drain the fuel filter cup first. Then run it for 10-5 minutes. Draining it and leaving it empty all winter will cause you problems in the spring. Read you motor's service manual and call Yamaha customer service. pay a few bucks and log onto marine mechanic and get the proper advice for your specific motor. Change that VST filter every 3 years for peace of mind and clean out then tank.

who the hell adjusts his sights for windage anyways??

tried to drain the vst, zero come out of it the value on top i push it in but zero comes out i thinking i have a problem with the VST

throttle cable needs adjusting

My plastic cam roller holes is broken. I have another one coming in the mail. Is there a quick fix I can use in the meantime?

Growing up my dad had the same make and size of boat, man, so many great memories. What a great project..

I have the same boat. My transom also is rotting. I'd love to see or hear about how you made out, tips and tricks?

Awesome, thank you so much! My winch is mounted exactly the same way as yours. From the DL website, they say this is incorrect, and that the cable should be coming from over the top of the reel to the load. Exactly the opposite of how both of ours is mounted. ?? I like how you did that over the water. I would have tried to hook up a pail or something underneath to catch my bolts! 😆. Very brave!

Also always remember left to right NOT right to left for removal as they are tapered to go one way only

best boat of it's type.

I got one this for free but it's the 65 dsp with what I read up all this have hum no wonder it was free it is junk can't gig with it and no way can record with why is they can't make the amps good as it was in 86. And back

The tube tore because you didn't anneal it!!!!

How tight do you tighten it

I got my 94' out recently after many years in a sleeve and found the rear buckhorn laying in the sleeve. It has two small screws that seem to attach to the "U" shaped sight base on the barrel, not sure if I am missing anything else as I do not see how it attaches to the "U".

I used a rubber strap wrench to unscrew the bowl without unbolting it.

Great build! Been looking for examples of cantilever roof beams for the front portch. Awesome!

Throttle linkage timing looks to be your problem.

Screw the throttle cable connection out farther on the other side. Or if its a gear type linkage time the gears!

What is the fuel filter part number?

To replace a cam roller, get a plastic funnel and cut a section out of the spout where the taper matches the size needed.

Thank you. Short and to the point👍

What ever happened to this project?

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I figured out on mine it was the plastic idle control on the right side of the motor. This is different than the fuel ratio control by the choke. It’s the plastic piece it’s an opaque white plastic piece that catches the nub on the throttle control arm that turn the flywheel. I flipped it over so it doesn’t catch the nub. It opens and closes with no catch. It’s always the small meaningless parts that kill an engine.

Where exactly is that water heater bypass? Do you have to go through the front storage area to get to it?

Don’t loosen that brass screw more than two turns. If it falls out, you will never find it.

Just some advice... next time you make a video: have adequate lighting or do it during the day.

There is a spacer which sticks out maybe 1/4 inch which prevents you from tightening it too much. Mine fell out and I can't find it. The spacer should push the cam roller out just far enough too. I am looking for a new spacer myself or I could buy a plastic one at home depot if I knew the size

Any updates on the Chief?

I cannot get the cover off by hand... what do I do!?

Fuel fitting or primer bulb are causing it to lose prime.

I have a '74 Islander 22' very similar condition when I "inherited" it. I gutted mine to the hull also. I was and am still amazed at how solidly built they are, I do not think they build anything structurally close to this unless it's a crew-boat these days. I also had the 160 Mercruiser grossly under powered given the hull weight, which was done for, hopelessly cracked and mortally wounded. So I decided to begin extending the transom and switch over to twin 150's with a swim platform in between effectively making it 25/26 ft long. The extra flotation off the tail should help it sit and plane better with bodies/fuel and gear onboard. I am having a fuel tank built to fit in the sump below its floor about midship. That is where I am headed for now. Always hunting ideas of what to do about the cuddy cabin and that big sharp angled windshield. I am departing from the original classic designs some but still want to retain some of the character without the squared lines. The hull has a curvy big lady appeal but the deck up is, all sharp with right angles. So I will follow your posts. Best