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If you watches the oil geek enough you would have never put a fram filter on there.

Switched to Valvoline R&P at 55k and have nearly 4000mi on that oil now. Gas mileage and power has slowly improved with the R&P. Getting ready to change it in a few weeks as it getting a little darker now. Your oil must have gotten black right away with a filter that looked like that. Keep an eye on your oil’s color and change it when it gets dark, or no more than 5K miles for synthetic and you should be good. It’ll take a 2-3 oil/filter changes to get an engine that dirty cleaned up!

czcams.com/video/kyyZDghgdCI/video.htmlsi=4V0nj7rqFsZoZyrq

Things get worn out not wore out. 😉

Update: the truck is fine. Had a sheared camshaft synchronizer drive gear, which also is responsible for driving the oil pump. Part not available but found a good used one. Replaced timing chain and oil pump to be extra safe. Truck hit the road today (after many delays) and sounds/runs great. Quick wrap-up video coming soon.

Yeah but what oil did you use before the Valvoline restore and protect mobil one or Pennzoil our crap

Why are you using the world's shittiest oil filters frame is a piece of s***

waste of time! why would you post something so dumb?

Just a thought ... you are better at shooting video on customer cars than yours. You are better at maintaining your vehicles compared to your customers.

Maybe only use 1 quart until it looks clean after OCI

Running this oil for the first time in my 2013 Transit Connect, I've done nothing but 5,000 OCI's with full synthetic oil and FoMoCo filters with 228k on the clock now. I don't expect there was any sludge or serious deposits but I have a filter cutting tool and will check inside this filter at 230k.

Before anyone makes a comment about Valvoline Restore and Protect they better do some research before they make themselves look like an idiot. This isn’t your daddy's or grand pappy's oil. It's been under development for years and has very unique properties that other oils don't have. It's a game changer as far as lubrication is concerned... nothing like it currently on the market.

my frame bolts have been off recently, not rusted solid so I'll def use this method for FP replacement

Fram would be the worse oil filter to use with this oil. They like to put a bypass where it's not called for. Fram are some of the worse filters period. Use an OEM filter.

Part of this problem is using Fram oil filters, they are absoulute garbage. The filter media is little more then cardboard, I wouldn't use one on a garden tractor! With regular oil changes you would not have that much sludge to deal with in the first place. This oil is primarily used for carbon build up on the oil control rings that get locked up and the oil return holes in the pistons get clogged resulting in oil consumption. If lack of regular oil changes happens is when you get that type of sludge that this oil also obvioulsly works well to remove.

THIS PROVES NOTHING!!!! You never showed a before and after with a bore scope so we have no idea how much sludge was in either engine. A filter stops particles in microns and ALL filters once dirty will not allow flow. It’s a filter , not a strainer !!! CARBON is naturally a part of oil and as the oil breaks down from heat , those carbon molecules join together making large particles that clog filters and ruins bearings and rings/ pistons . C’mon man… get real .

Well , I bought a used 2015 Mazda 6 with over 113 000 miles , and it was thoroughly thrashed . Turned out the valve cover seal was blown and would leak heavily at highway speeds. There was so much oil and sand / dirt that had built up between the front ( actually the side facing the radiator) of the engine and the intake manifold that you could not see the injectors or the fuel rail . It was baked into a solid mass . The valve cover hardware was never touched and the owner probably just kept dumping in new oil daily to keep up with the leak . When I opened up the valve cover I was shocked beyond belief at how spotless the internals were ( silver clean no gold or bronze colour you would expect) . I dropped the oil pan and it was clean as a new whistle too , like too clean . It goes to show that there is plenty of detergents already in any oil AS LONG AS the engine has clean oil in it with regular oil changes at 3000 - 5000 miles. I have worked on engines my whole life and once you have a lot of sludge your engine is junk now ! Baked oil and carbon on rings and pistons will never get cleaned by flushing with anything. Besides , proper maintenance on any engine shows that your rings should be replaced around 100 000 miles anyway if you want it to last. Once an engine is severely compromised by sludge you should either replace it with a newer engine or rebuild it.

This is exactly what happened with my 2010 Suburban. I did an oil change at around 100K miles and added a can of Z-Max. About one thousand miles later, I got a low oil pressure chime and pressure gage went below normal operation. I changed the oil and filter again and when I removed the oil filter it felt much heavier than expected. Before adding Z-Max, the DOD would only activate while driving down hill. Now, DOD activates on flat stretches of road at 40MPH consistently. The moral of the story here is use good oils and have your oil tested if you keep your vehicles until they die like I do.

Man of the year!!!! I looked like crazy, went crazy but im sure you just saved me. What a blessing 🙌

A buddy of mine needed a cheap car very badly as he was going through some serious financial problems. I had a relative who had a badly abused Chrysler Cirrus with a 2.8L V6 that I was putting a timing chain into for her. The 2.8L was notorious for sludge death, and she had thrashed on it pretty hard. I told him not to pay more than $400 for the car, because that's what the junkyard would have paid for it at the time. He bought it for $400. When I started the timing chain, the oil was all sludge. I was surprised the thing hadn't seized. We put in some fresh 5W-30 with Marvel Mystery oil and a filter, and we ran it for half an hour. Then we changed the oil and filter (with more Marvel Mystery Oil). What came out was some of the nastiest oil this side of sludge I had ever seen. We ran that batch for several hours and did another oil and filter change, with another batch of Marvel Mystery Oil; that batch came out very nasty, but better. The following week we did a final oil and filter change and of course added more Marvel Mystery Oil. It was now only looking like used motor oil that had needed changing. My friend got another year out of that trashed Chrysler. Then he was able to upgrade to something used but not beat on. My lesson was learned. Cleaning the sludge out of an engine can border on working miracles, even with a German 2.8L V6 in a thrashed Chrysler from the 90s.

I've used this oil in all my cars religiously since release. It is amazing. Just get a good oil filter. not the $3 fram.

I agree. The problem you had was that you were using a 20 micron rated filter instead of a regular filter which are usually rated at 30.

does it work with BMW engine

I have been using Penzoil Ultra platnum full synthetic. I just got a P0012 code on a toyta 2grfe. The code went away but was stored. Brought it in and they didn't find anything, and the oil pump was working they said. Should i use this oil? 116K Sounds like a sensor did not get oil causing the code for my VVTI. Or an electrical issue. No check engine light now. I never lost oil in the pan during that light. Dipstick full. Synthetic MMO?

really bad sludge could clog the screen on pickup tube and if ilter gets clogged and goes into bypass you could clog up small passageways in engine.

i would think the bypass valve will open if the filter gets too clogged to allow good pressure and keep engine from being run without oil that's why they have those valves

How many miles was it before you opened up this oil filter? You said change it about every 300 miles if it was that dirty I would probably do it sooner. I would probably do about 200 miles just to be safe. To anybody out there to avoid this in the first place change your oil sooner than what the manufacturer recommends. I run synthetic oil in my 2011 Chevy 2500 HD and I change it at 50% oil life. That may be a little Overkill but the cleaner the motor oil is running through that engine in its lifetime the better it's going to be. Even at 50% oil life it's still dirty. Oil is cheap engines are not. To this day my engine is still running flawlessly no ticking. And to let everybody know I bought that 2011 brand new and to this day it still runs flawlessly.

700 miles on a Fram Oil Filter... You sure like pushing the limits.

Does it come In straight 40 wt

Figured out your problem. You used FRAM

you're high as hell buddy, that oils $2 more than the other premium synthetic

This oil looks great but only comes in thin viscosities. Nothing like a 15w50, 20w50. Not suitable for my Subaru EA71S engine which specs a 10w50 and I run mostly Mobil 1 15w50 or HPL 10w50. I'll try it in my boyfriend's Honda Fit which specs a 5w20 but I run a 5w30 as it burns less oil on a 5w30. It's due for an oil change very soon.

500 miles did this... Nahhh. you had that filter on for wayyy longer than 500 miles that's for sure.

You can do the same thing with any motor oil, just at the end of your engine oil Life interval. The last 200 or 300 hundred miles add some ATF transmission fluid, like a pint or two. And if you're vehicle loses some oil pressure, change the oil filter as soon as possible.. the reason for the drop in oil pressure is when the oil filter gets plugged. The oil pushes past the bypass that's built into the filter. And because of the reduced resistance the oil pressure will be reduced. Just changed the oil filter as soon as you can. And keep changing it as needed. When changing the engine oil and new filter. Add again a pint or two of ATF transmission fluid and leave it in the engine until the next oil change. But, again change the oil filter at any time you may have a drop in oil pressure. Do the ATF transmission fluid treatments as often as you feel necessary. Or all of the time. If done right. Will save you a lot of money. And down time. Is completely safe

My concern would be the oil pickup screen getting clogged..

So, that should start sowing up on you dipstick, right? Like oil turning black as the engine cleans up?

Sounds like this valvoline has a high concentrate of detergent, too much detergent can have a negative effect on the oils lubrication ability. Keeping the oil clean will prevent sludging.

yours was clogged because the engine has sludge, this means the oil is doing its job

thanks , im in just such a scenario,. im concerned about the pickup screen now too,. ill be doing this asap.,

Always remember to do an engine flush before I use Motor. medic by gunk out and marvel mystery oil let the engine idle for about 20-25 minutes then drain unbelievable the crap that comes out of them especially cars that have never been flushed before and suffer from poor maintenance

If you suspect a sluged up engine, I would recommand doing an engine flush first. And then use VRP

Shoulda used a Wix

Dang...lost me when ya said scam oil filter

I'm curious why you put 5-20 in an old ford pushrod engine. Isn't that kid of light for an older engine?

It would seem with older or high mileage engines, too much cleaning at once could cause problems such as plugged oil passages and possibly bearing damage. Perhaps running half this oil and "normal " valvoline would clean a little slower to reduce a mass sludge movement throughout the engine.

Everyone knows not to use fram. Wow!

i though engines had bypass built in for cold starts an other trouble.

Change the filter and add 1/2 qt r+p

Man that engine must have been badly neglected. Wow. I’ve seen many other restore and protect videos and none of them had sludge like that even at a few thousand miles. Hopefully that engine isn’t already damaged. Best of luck thanks for the video.

Change the filter and party on.