Video

Thanks! I know manufacturers are not making it exactly easy to DIY repairs, to say the least...

When you say it doesn't shut, do you mean the lid doesn't close all the way, or it doesn't lock in the bottom position? If the former, then it is likely lid hinge (outside the lid) is broken (plastic parts). If the latter, it is likely latch mechanism inside the lid, and there is a good chance that it is not completely broken, but parts are misaligned. If you disassemble it and reassemble it, it might work again without re-fabricating any of the parts.

I agree, with a few spare parts (not to mention slightly better design) a lot of appliances could lead a much longer life. Lid problems are not even the worst ones here, at least these can be reasonably worked around if you're handy. But the parts that are in contact with actual food (well, water here), e.g., level indicator, are almost impossible to repair properly, but could be trivially replaced if parts were available... :(

I haven't seen this specific model, but from what I've seen from Acer laptops with similar model numbers the internals are usually quite similar. So it is quite likely that there is disconnect switch on that model as well.

CZcams University is the best university! :)

You're welcome!

Glad it was useful!

The battery is NOT dead, I am talking about it around 22:51+. That's why measuring smart batteries at the connector is not reliable - in this case, unless BMS sees grounded trip wire (orange), it does not send any power out, even though the cells are fully charged. . The ribbon cable connects a daughterboard with the power button (and a couple of ports) to the main board.

Thanks!

That's fair. Don't think I've ever had issue with software per se, but if you can't update maps (and it is often the case for older devices), then you can certainly get in trouble if there were some road changes, or in newly built areas that are simply not there.

You're welcome!

No, haven't tried that. Contact terminals for that would be on the back side of the mainboard, so not sure how useful that would be even if you'd be able to power it (unless you're OK to run in out-of-case mode). Also skeptical if that would run at all, batteries normally have more functions than just supplying power. Usually there is data bus/HDQ and thermal data pins, though I don't remember if these are in the original iPad.

Thanks Michael, I am glad that my video was helpful!

I think blades for 20mm arbor are most likely for tile saws, not angle grinders. Though not sure about your particular discs.

This happens, unfortunately, especially with aftermarket batteries. First thing I'd check if the battery cable is seated properly. If no issues there (likely, as you can run on AC), then you can try to do hard reset, which goes something like this: . - Power off - Hold Volume Up and the Power button for 15 seconds. The Surface logo screen may flash, but continue to hold for 15 seconds. - Release the buttons - Wait 10 seconds - Power on the Surface . Also, while on AC, check if battery device shows up under Device Manager in Windows.

Mandatory disclaimer: don't try to operate on visibly puffed up batteries, this is unsafe etc. So the short answer is no. The long answer is also probably no ;) The thing is, I have try to resuscitate puffed up batteries on several occasions, and while they did not blow up in my face (but see disclaimer above), in every single case the cells were pretty much useless. Even if I managed to force them to accept charge, internal self-discharge was so rapid that as soon as I removed charging leads, the battery was draining in a matter of minutes (even without load). On top of that, for the most mobile devices with LiPo batteries you usually cannot even place them inside the case after they puff up enough. So realistically, if it is significantly puffed up - dispose of it. But if it just puffs a little bit it may work out just fine. Pretty much all LiPo cells that were used for some time, even the ones that work just fine, would look a little puffed.

Usually not, because the battery cells connect to the charging circuit that needs to be bypassed. The closest you can get is to keep plugged the device for a few days without turning it on, and hope that it will trickle-charge to a level where it will start charging in a regular fashion. But chances of this working like that are not very high.

Yeah, I tried that by leaving it charging for 2 days and it didn't work... Thanks for the answer!

Thick surface grinding wheels would center just fine on 5/8 threads. Not sure about thin cutoff discs, but you're not supposed to use these anyway with this grinder due to the guard being open.

@@JustMakeItNowJust remake the video after you read the instructions.

Yeah, unfortunately these are pretty fragile. Especially if you try to pry, and corners in particular. Metal/plastic pieces can take quite a bit of force, but glass parts can only bend very little, and then shatter :(

A whole bunch of Acer laptops is likely to have this feature. I am curious, if any other manufacturers do something like this.

With other brands I didn’t encountered this thing but this Acer stayed for like 2 days on the bench only for me to figure out what is wrong with the battery 🤦🏻‍♂️ and when I wanted to give it back to the client with the status of dead battery, even if I knew that is was working fine when she brought it to us…. I put it back together and made a final power on test and it worked correctly. I was completely amazed and intrigued and pissed off and happy and felt like a dumb tehnician, all in 1 moment 😁😁😁

It is most likely the battery. If you're familiar with the device, and it used to work fine and then haven't been used in a while, then it is almost guaranteed that it is just a battery issue. Otherwise, it could be something else, but the chances of that are fairly low. Another issue of concern would be just a dead screen, but this is not a case here as you would see a spike in current on boot up / charging. Right now, it is not charging the battery (based on amperage), this is usually a telltale sign of the dead battery.

@@JustMakeItNow no idea, the previous owner just stated it wasn't working and gave it to us. Thanks for the response

:)

Thanks! You can mute sound and change playback speed in the player controls. The video is already pretty long, and if it would be 1x speed everywhere no one ever would click on it ;)

Glad I could help!

Most welcome 😊

Thanks!

Thanks! I knew I wouldn't be the only one surprised by what I found ;)

Thanks for commenting!

First of all, thanks for contributing! I am not sure though why are you saying that what I am doing is the exact opposite of what should be done. When I refer to boosting, I am strictly talking about fooling my smartcharger to accept the cell into pre-charge cycle, which has a cutoff of around 1.5V (don't remember exactly). Once charger accepts the cell, actual charging happens pretty much along the same lines that you posted (precharging with 0.15A till 3V, then switching to a regular charging program as specified), and has nothing to do with the booster cell. Now, while stopping along the way at 2.5V, 4.1V etc for intermediate testing might be fine if you're working with a few cells, but no way I am doing that for several dozens or hundreds cells manually ;) If I'd have a custom charging circuit that would incorporate that logic that would be fine, but no standard chargers that I know of (including RC3000) support that. So it's just not very practical. . Now, paralleling cells is definitely not something that generally should be done, you're right about that. I believe I do talk about it (though maybe in a different video). Now, for the purpose of showing up some voltage on the charger terminals ideally I'd just use a current-limiting power supply, with something like 2V and very low amperage limit, but I didn't have one handy (the lowest I could go was 1A, which was too much IMO). Hence this almost dead cell was used as a voltage booster for a few seconds. So that cell had slightly above 2V (?) to begin with, so no way even with no-resistance leads it would be outputting multiple amps, and you're also right that these leads wouldn't support that either (tested that before). I am pretty sure I even measured short circuit current on the booster cell, and it was pretty low. So while it was certainly not the most robust setup I admit, it was not as bad as you may think :)

You are welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

Generally, no. I am sure there are some exceptions out there, but for the most parts cell phones and laptops require somewhat working battery to work, even when all you want to do if use AC power. Battery doesn't need to hold any charge, but is needed to complete the power circuit.

You don't need an adapter, you just need a right cup wheel, e.g. similar to what you can see in the thumbnail (this is for concrete and not paint stripping, but it works flat on the surface). Cut-off wheels (the ones you use on the edge) are not supposed to be used with these types of 4.5" grinders because their regular guards are not designed to cutoff wheels. But for cup wheels that shouldn't be an issue, that's what these grinders are designed for, you just need to find the right wheel for your application. . Or if all you want to do is to strip some loose paint (instead of sanding the wall), you may simply go with some kind of wirebrush, this should do the trick.

It's unlikely to be worth much, even at sentimental value :) You can try to find someone local to help you out if for some reason you _really_ want 1st gen to be repaired...

For as long as the new battery is going to function. This depends on battery, usage patterns etc. Can easily be several years if everything goes according to plan, which will probably exceed usable life of the device anyway. If not, replacing it the second time is a much easier procedure (unless you hardglued screen back in :) )

Yep, you're correct, clear plastic used in the level indicator deteriorates over time (I am sure contact with boiling doesn't help). It starts to develop microfractures which eventually leak :(

Ha, I know exactly what you're talking about ;)

For older devices this usually means that battery is dead and needs to be replaced.

@@JustMakeItNow Any way to run it without battery?

@@cwmoriarty Unfortunately, most modern devices require somewhat functional battery, even when running off AC. Now, the battery might be completely depleted (close to zero max capacity), that would work. But no battery, or damaged battery (e.g., short on BMS) usually prevents running off mains...

@@cwmoriartyyou can run it through power supply, i used alligator clips to just try to run it and test before i bought new batteries. It was three 1st gen ipads from my customer btw 😉

Glad it was helpful!

Touch screen not working (assuming it worked before) is most likely digitizer cable not connected properly. Check it out, digitizer cable is a flat ribbon cable on the left side of the mainboard (if looking top side with screen removed), it needs to be fully inserted into the socket (all the way to the white line on the ribbon) and then latched up in the socket. If it is not fully inserted/latched, touch won't work on all or parts of the screen. . As to why it looks like factory reset, I am not sure. Battery replacement alone shouldn't reset anything, unless you have done something else as well.

@@JustMakeItNow THANKS SO MUCH!!! that was the problem, the digitizer cable., thanks again!!! you rock!

Happy to help, glad it worked out!

@@JustMakeItNow Sorry if I bother again, but now the ipad tells me Activation required... when I activate it, it tells me that it could not be activated

Assuming you don't have your account locked, you can try iPad reset, network settings reset (then connect to WiFi) or you can try to activate via iTunes. Normally, one of these methods should work. If it is not your iPad (e.g. bought second-hand) that you don't know Apple ID for, then it is a different story.

Try to connect external screen, or access via Remote Desktop. It is possible that the screen is dead, but the rest is functional.

@@JustMakeItNow I tried that, and it works with an external monitor, the touch function works and the tablet works fine wit the external monitor. the tablet display lights up when powering on but is blank. It's not cracked. I check the display drivers all look good so I'm not sure what to do now.

Well, most of the tablet works, so that's a good sign ;) In your case it is most likely one of two things: either internal display cable is not seated properly in its socket, or the panel itself is dead. Just because it is not visibly cracked and digitizer works doesn't mean LCD panel is functional. I'd open up the case, try to reseat display cables and see if that helps. If not, replace the panel as the hard part (opening up) is already done.

I don't have a link anymore, it was quite a while ago. But you usually can find these on AliExpress (very cheap, but slow delivery), or on eBay if you're in North America (not cheap on per unit basis, but not a huge deal if you only do a single device and want faster delivery).

@@JustMakeItNow What is the name of this device? Where can I find it on aliexpress?

These are screen/frame clips, here is one example: www.aliexpress.com/i/1005003498419538.html

Thank you brother. From 🇹🇭

It was a while ago, but most likely on some internet forum. Can't recall for sure.

That's what playback speed option is for ;)

No problem 👍

Glad it was useful, hope your project went well ;)

Sort of. Screen is off successfully, but wow that antenna array is designed to be destroyed on removal! £20 for a new assembly and £36 for a new battery and I should have a fully working surface pro 4 once again.

Ha, I know what you mean! Before you splurge on new antenna strips, check if you can simply straighten them up. Unless you straight up cut/tear them on removal, these are just foil strips, if they're just bunched up you can unfold them back.

@@JustMakeItNow unfortunately it’s toast. The best advice i would give others is get a sharp knife and cut as close to the display assembly as you can. That black glue is sticky and horrible

@@JustMakeItNow what did you find was the best way to remove all the glue before reapplying new glue?

Thanks, it is indeed true that after deep discharge of the battery (e.g. off for months) it might be difficult to bring it back to normal operations and will likely require some resuscitation steps (and even that might not work). So try these steps first!

Glad you think so!

I had it on the lowest setting - 100C, though the source temperature is not that important. The important part is how hot your screen surface gets, that's why I was constantly checking it with my hand. You can go higher temps, this means you have to reduce heat application time. IIRC screen panels get permanent damage at about 80-100C, depending on screen technology (LCD, OLED).

@@JustMakeItNow Thanks. The kit comes in tomorrow along with a larger M.2 drive. So I'm fixing and upgrading all at once.

No worries. Just don't rush and it's going to be alright ;) Good luck!