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Depending on what's actually wrong inside and with shipping included back to you, $60-$80+/-

If it's an old solid state version and not low impedance, good luck finding one because I think they're all discontinued now.

Ok

I don't recall the part number, it's from Parmak, but it's not a current part they have in their parts list. I have it written down in a custom parts book I've created myself here. On the tester, good luck finding one. I got this one second hand from a repair place that was getting out of the business. I do remember seeing one for sale 15+ years ago and the distributor wanted $1000-$1200 for it and I paid I think around $350 for it. They're no longer being offered though. At least, I can't seem to find anyone offering a tester like this. It's honestly nothing a normal person using an electric fence charger for personal use would ever need, just use a good quality digital fence tester or electric fence fault finder and that should be what anyone would need. That's all I ever used here myself until about a year or so ago.

I have talked to Gallagher on the not turning on and they did have some issues with the push button membrane on the front. The board and everything inside is fine, just the little button on the front can have issues, but they have corrected it at the factory since before I made this video and gallagher repaired this unit under warranty. I didn't have any parts in stock for this unit and just sent it to them to take care of.

Parmak has had plenty of delays on parts for their 6/12v units, both solar and non solar. We have had to wait weeks and months for parts on their parts for the battery powered units. That Parmak unit you have is only about 0.5 output joules. On the Cyclops 12v unit, make sure to keep it protected from the weather. They're not a sealed unit at all and water will get inside and that's not covered by any warranty. They only carry a 1 year warranty on the Cyclops unless you bought the extended warranty on it. Also the Cyclops plastic isn't the greatest as it ages, and the sunlight UV will fade the case and you'll start to get small cracks in the plastic or it'll get brittle on those cheap hangers they use. If it had been me, I would've bought a Gallagher 12v unit. Better quality made inside and out than the Cyclops and a longer warranty. Plus the Gallagher is about 90% waterproof and the only way water can really get inside is from a flood from the bottom up. They're plastic is really well made and the unit can be set out in the weather and sunlight 365 days a year for years and years with no issues. The Cyclops is a good second place.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity My Cyclops fencer is installed in a NOCO snap-top group 27 battery box. I sealed the top vents with electrical tape to prevent water ingress. The drip proof side ports provide the necessary ventilation. After about 2 months out in the weather, the fencer is perfectly dry despite the rainy weather and several downpours. I'm not at all concerned about the lack of weather protection or sun degradation of the plastic case. I had a look inside when I opened the case to remove the zip lock bags containing the spare fuses. I was impressed with the build quality and I like the fact that the output board is mounted away from the control board. The board has MOVs and spark gaps for protection and has an externally accessible fuse protecting it. The large output transformer is center mounted and quite heavy. For my application, the Cyclops unit makes more sense. The Gallagher MBS 400 costs about $200 more than this unit.

@@NCF8710 You did the right thing by installing it inside that sort of box. Most people don't or put something else over it that doesn't do much for protecting. Also, I'm well aware of how that unit is built inside, worked on plenty of them. They have still their issues and the transformers do go bad on occasion and they use cheap fuse holders which I've replaced dozens and dozens of them with better quality made ones. My money is still being put on a gallagher over a cyclops.

If it is already set up as a low impedance unit already, then we might be able to. But if it's a old solid state unit, then no because none of the parts are compatible to be low impedance.

They're about $35 plus shipping.

It will work with up to a 4 output joule unit. The only other thing that we sometimes have to do is upgrade the SCR to a higher amperage and voltage rated one. Sometimes to a 50-75 amp 1000-1600 volts just to make sure that there's not too much extra discharge energy being able to make it out the board to the transformer and prematurely damage the OEM SCR on the board

I've got a Hakko desoldering vacuum pump, but the dumb thing is broken and I haven't had time to take a look at it, been broke for months. I don't particularly care much for the manual solder suckers. This board has a conformal coating on the front and backside of the board as well as solder on between the transformer and front side of the solder pads. Adding fresh solder to the joints really helped out by getting burning off that conformal coating. I should've probably done that from the start, but I don't see this model come in super often because of the reliability reputation this brand has, so it's almost like retraining myself on what techniques are going to work best.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Yeah, I had one of those too. I upgraded to a PACE. Have you considered using Chip Quick alloy solder in applications like this? It is an indium alloy that drastically reduces the melting point of the solder joint. It helps with large plated through holes, allowing the complete removal of the solder around the pins. The solder joint remains molten longer. Sometimes, you can lift the component off the board before the joint solidifies. You must remove this alloy before soldering in the new component using solder wick.

Yep exactly. They sold 10's of 1,000's of the S15/S17/S22 this over the course of 20 years of production of those models. This particular customer who owns the unit the board came out of sent in 2 other older S17 boards that were 10+ years old and he owns another 4 at his place. These were very reliable and versatile units for the set ups they're used for.

We're chatting through email, thanks Jill we'll get this thing figured out

This wasn't a new unit. This was a unit we had in for repair for lightning damage I believe. We don't see very many of the newer Gallagher units come in for repair, so this was a test and review of the unit overall and they are still very well made inside and out.

You're not the first person to tell me this lol

It is just a wire attached to a probe into the ground hole of the outlet. It's doesn't have to be the same outlet as the charger is plugged into though. It is basically testing the internal resistance of the coil to see if the winding is totally together and not breaking down. This is only to be done on AC powered units typically. You can do this sake test in the field by leaning the fence disconnected and powering the unit on with only the ground system connected. If the unit is still clicking along like normal and the voltage coming out of the unit is still where it should be, then the internals of the transformer are fine for now until the transformer finally fails from other damages.

There's all sorts of ways to fix units and this is just one of many ways depending on the unit and what's actually wrong. I've got 900+ videos on CZcams, check on another video of mine.

Is it a weed burner type with the plug in canister thing on it? If so, it's junk if that is bad because that past is no longer being produced and if you can find one, they're 10x the price they used to be. If it's a regular low impedance type, then it's 50/50 shot at best to get one of those going.

Yes gallagher by far that's the brand we see the least amount of trouble out of. We see plenty of the other brands come through though.

Gallagher units are really simple to work on these days. They're all modulated in design and not a lot of moving parts to deal with.

Yea he said it was a bad storm and knocked a few things out at his place.

Hey, Thanks Dad!

Well you picked a brand that sometimes will last 4-10 years on average. So be prepared for something to happen to it. Also make sure it's protected from the weather, they're not waterproof. They do carry a 3 year warranty on that brand though, water damage isn't covered by the warranty fyi.

They offer two different type of knobs sets for this unit depending on which one you have and the switch is available as well. I have most parts for this model in stock.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thanks. Can I email you with what I need and the info?

There's likely an issue within the board somewhere

Parmak is ok for the money and they're repairable & not throwaway. If you bought the Mark 8 unit, that's their mid size unit. They make the SE-5 that's their upper mid size unit, then they make the Rangemaster and that's their largest unit they make joule wise. Shop around online for their stuff and you might find a better deal online.

It depends on a person's budget as well for a units from different brands in the same power range. Some cheaper brands of x joule rating might be $150+/- and a better built brand with the same joule rating might cost $350+/-. Not all brands are created equal depending on the quality of parts on the inside.

I appreciate the comment and thanks for the support. You or anyone you know ever needs help, let them know. Also, Branson is a really nice part of the State and we are planning a trip down there in December to take the kids on A Polar Express railroad ride.

Gallagher used to have a separate board as well on older models going back to the late 1970's like the M800, M1500, BEV, BEV2, BEV3, B600, B1200, & B1600. Most brands don't have anything on the output these days. Power Wizard does on their 6 joule and larger units though.

I was lucky enough to get this from another repair shop that was getting out of the repair business and they sold me some of their stuff.

Same here!

The stupid mileage rating is a marketing number at best. It's based off a single strand of 12.5 gauge high tensile steel fence wire that's perfectly clean. I look at the joule rating of a unit to base/help people on what they need for their size area. A 6 joule unit would likely do 150-250 acres of multi wire fence depending on the grass/debris load on the line

Possibly the points are dirty and need to be cleaned or the capacitor is bad/weak.

Well, parts had been difficult to get since last summer and getting parts now from anyone that used to sell them is really non existent now since the the manufacturer stopped offering parts last November. I have probably 25) 100/120 Mile units and about 15) 200/240 Mile units sitting on a shelf that I don't know what to do with since parts are basically non existent anymore. On some of them, people told me to keep for parts and they would just go buy another brand of unit, some said to fix it if we could but didn't care if we could or couldn't and would just buy something else, and I'm sure there are some we haven't gotten too. They keep coming in and keep stacking up.

Yea I ended up ordering new leads today after I got some with the repair. I ordered a set of fluke branded ones this time. The original set lasted me about 8-10 years before I finally had to replace them. These Chinese ones I got were way cheaper, but I think I've only had them 2-3 years at the most. The new leads I ordered have some extra built in protection for the wires where they bend at, so I'm excited to try them out.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity you probably know this but you can get fluke made Chinese meters very cheaply online and they have pretty much the same quality as US ones. EEvblog and other channels have reviewed them. Fluke apparently makes most of their products in China. You just don't know if it has the same QC if you get it yourself

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity czcams.com/video/dlnO6UXOe-A/video.html

I've never recommended this brand or the sister brands even when there was parts, they're just not very well made units. The boards are ok, but the transformers are junk.

It's not an issue with the unit itself, but the way the unit is wired internally for the surge suppression board that it has, inside and the ground connection for it. You could have excess ground voltage if you don't have enough ground rods and that can cause some feedback and the GFCI doesn't know what's going on and it's tripping because it thinks there's a problem when there's not. Most brands don't recommend plugging fence chargers into GFCI outlets.

It's about 90% the same as the W210, just the last thing that's different is something to do with the switch and what you have to do to save the calibration. If you send me an email at cattlescalerepair@gmail.com I'll send you the calibration instructions. Make sure your load bars aren't actually the issue of the weights being off because if you calibrate your scale and there's an issue with one of the bars, then you'll open up a whole can of worms trying to figure out what's actually the issue at that point.

That's the wrong information for someone to give you, "Buy the largest you can afford." That's going to end up costing you more on repairs, especially when you have such a small area of containment. That person doesn't know how these fence chargers work internally. You're going to overheat that unit inside because it's going to try and deliver 9-12 joules on a small area, and that unit will only be able to get rid maybe 10-25% of its actual power and the rest is going to be dissipated as heat inside two parts, the discharge side of the main board and the transformer, I've seen it plenty of times. You would be better off buying a smaller joule unit that will actually perform better and last longer and you went at any difference in shock performance and the animals will still respect the fence. If your hung up on getting power wizard, look at the PW3000 and that unit on it's own is pretty reliable for the money and simple to work on. Or if you want something that's will last even longer, look at the Gallagher M360 or M560. Gallagher is by far one of the best quality built brands out there. Don't always buy based off initial price, spend a little bit more money and get a quality made unit. Stay away from Zareba, anything at TSC w/ American Farmworks, the Patriot brand, the Speedrite brand, Blitzer, Red Snap'r, & Fi-Shock. If you want something that's you'll hardly ever have to send to me for repair, buy the Gallagher brand and you'll hardly ever need to talk to me for repairs.

Technically yes if it's a dual powered AC/DC unit. But you would have to personally unplug the AC cable from the unit and plug in the DC cable into it. There's only I think one brand that can do it automatically and that's the Gallagher MB & MBS models. You have to buy their battery back up device part number G58210, one of their 6 different MB or MBS models, which all of them are very reliable and we hardly see any of them in for repair.

Yep and now they're all mostly using capacitors from HK Film Capacitor company from Honk Kong China.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity I have placed up to 6uf in that encapsulation, surprised to see 20 uf in such a small space. Incredible how compact the size is.

Can you email me a picture of what you're after. fencerfixer816@gmail.com

The Cod 1.1 is either the version of software on the chips inside or the code for remote control for communication purposes so the two units match up and talk to each other. I can get you one here and ship it there, but they're kind of pricey for what they are and I'm sure shipping might be on the high side as well.

I do not unfortunately. There's also some sort of inductor inside I believe as well. I did make an extension cable for one for a couple of customers about 5 years ago, but it didn't work with the bars and scale because there's an inductor of some sort for signal strength on the current bars, and they didn't tell me that and of course that's why it didn't work and they wouldn't tell me what size or where the inductor could be bought, so I just stopped offering that on the HD5T bars. Older model bars, a lot easier to take care of on the connectors

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCitythanks for the response. I have a chewed example here but think the inside should be okay will try cut into it and see what I can find 👀

@@mervynpowell9384 All I can say is good luck getting through all the epoxy inside and being able to see anything useful. You might try calling up whoever your distributor is or the main hub there is in England/Europe for Tru-Test or Datamars and call them up. You'll likely have to send the bar to them though and let them put a new connector on it, they won't tell you how to do it over the phone, that's the same with us here. Luckily I have the pin out for their older bars still in my files.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity managed to get in, looks like it’s a 3k3 from pin 5 to pin 7 and then wire link between 6 & 7. No inductor as a component that I can see. Will update you after I’ve ordered connectors etc if they work. Do you have links to the cable and connectors you use? They don’t look like anthenol ecomates?

@@mervynpowell9384 Maybe they've changed things up, but that inductor thing was told to me by from someone at Tru-Test, so I was basing it off that as well. The ecomate one is just a branding name from the Amphenol company. They also make a solid black one that isn't branded ecomate. There's also the brand called Hirshmann that makes a similar all black connector that can be used the same as well. Just shop around from wherever you can get the cheapest price from. On the 3.3 k ohm I would get a 1/2 watt resistor version of it even if it was only using a 1/4 Watt size, the cost between the two sizes is barely different usually.

Unfortunately no it can't be operated with one safely. Also about 3-4 years ago, the only company that was still making/supplying the 3 & 4 prong weed choppers to all the stores and such stopped. They stated that the demand wasn't there anymore. There hasn't been a weed chopper type of unit made in 40+ years, so anything that's a weed chopper unit you find is at least that old or older, most times 50-60 years old. You're best bet to maybe find a chopper is eBay, but make sure you're sitting down, very expensive nowadays. Search 3 prong weed chopper or 4 prong weed chopper and see what you find. But once those last choppers are sold and gone, that's the end of them.

I'm not sure what the blue block thing is inside. Is this a SE-5 or Mark 5 unit? Either way it's repairable.

They've made some changes to their boards the last year or so, and got rid of those features. The board on the newer ones look nothing like the last version. They had some issues with the newest version boards early on and I think that back and forth feature was messing with the other electronics inside and so they got rid of them. They're working on coming out with a new solar unit at some point in time, so I imagine the new model, wherever it comes out, will have some features built in again.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thank you very much for clarifying that for me👍

They're newer/current models are junk compared their 15+ year old stuff.