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Mical Stephenson
Registrace 7. 11. 2011
1996 XR250R Fork Seal Replacement
Replacing the blown out fork seals on my 1996 Honda XR250R.
zhlédnutí: 5 428
Video
Ford Lumbar Assembly Replacement
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 3 lety
2011 Ford Superduty lumbar assembly replacement.
1978 Ford F-150 pulled off the fence row. Will it run? Preproject Overview
zhlédnutí 88Před 3 lety
1978 Ford F-150 Ranger. In 2007 this truck went from farm truck to daily driver. Interviews restored and exterior got maintenance. Then it was driven for less than a year and parked. Only to be driven twice a year until 2015. It hasn’t run since. This video is a placeholder for where it is starting. Plans are to do Holley Sniper EFI, upgrade ignition, exhaust, cam, maybe fix the brakes, and an ...
Superduty Vacuum Hoses and Coolant Line reroute and cleanup
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed 3 lety
How I rerouted the 4x4 vacuum lines on my Superduty to make for a cleaner look under the front of the truck. Mainly due to being lifted and installing 4-link bars. As well as rerouting the coolant lines to clean up under the hood. This does away with the factory coolant tube that sticks up and looks bad under the hood.
Superduty Track Bar Ball Joint Battle
zhlédnutí 96KPřed 3 lety
2011 F350 track bar ball joint replacement.
Echo SRM-210 Carburetor Replacement
zhlédnutí 19KPřed 3 lety
My weed eater has been finicky lately not wanting to run right or start. I decided the carb was getting old so it might need replacing. The latest issue was immediately flooding when I tried to start it. This happens intermittently and has become irritating. Final conclusion, the fuel mixture screw needed to be adjusted. It is capped so it should never be able to move. But once the cap is remov...
1996 Honda XR250R Clutch Replacement
zhlédnutí 21KPřed 3 lety
Replacing the clutches and upgrading the clutch springs on my new to me 1996 Honda XR250R.
2011 F350 AC Rattle Diagnosis and Repair
zhlédnutí 386Před 3 lety
Started off fixing a rattle coming from the serpentine belt area. Needed to find a fix to get me by until I could get parts in. Ended up replacing the AC compressor, condenser, and high pressure line.
2020 Ford Explorer: First Oil Change
zhlédnutí 26KPřed 3 lety
Oil change how to on a 2020 Ford Explorer 4 cylinder ecoboost.
1996 Honda XR250R Top End Repair
zhlédnutí 18KPřed 3 lety
Just picked up this 1996 XR250R and it had some issues from the previous owner. An oil leak led to a couple of stripped bolts and discovering bad work from another mechanic. Pulled the head and fixed everything I could. Also fixed a bad kill switch and a couple other miscellaneous items.
Trans Fluid Temp Sensor 6r140
zhlédnutí 11KPřed 4 lety
Changing the transmission fluid temperature sensor on a 2011 Ford Super Duty. The process also ends up including a fluid and filter change by default.
Battery Terminal Cleaning
zhlédnutí 25Před 4 lety
Due to my Super Duty regularly corroding the passenger side battery terminal, I thought I would show my little hack for cleaning it quickly and easily.
6.7 Ford Vacuum Pump Leak
zhlédnutí 51KPřed 5 lety
Fixing the oil leak from the vacuum pump seal on a 6.7L Ford Diesel. The 4 bolts holding it on are known to be loose from the factory and cause a serious looking leak from the front of the engine.
Too early
8k miles
Is this the same for an 08 Lincoln Towncar?
Thanks for the video. I was hoping I wouldn’t have to tear my seat apart to fix the lumbar support. I just changed mine and it works great
Really appreciate you showing the actual assemblies , to give a visual of the bolt locations
That sway bar able to hold enough sway resistance? Might handle better 3 times thicker just a thought 🤔
It’s factory and been good for 260k miles
Is it the same for ford f150 2011 ?
I know it is not the same exact seats. But I bet the concept is the same. Zip on cover and similar parts inside.
Thanks for showing how to do it, cus manuel doesnt.
Happy to help
Hey I have an original front violet light plate! Would be happy to sell it to you.
If you still have that headlight apparatus I would be interested in buying it.
Punch a hole in the filter to let it drain before removing it
I do that most times. Great tip.
You are great thanks
I replaced my track bar ball joint without any cutting, I simply used a larger ball joint press.
Work smarter, not harder.
shitty video
Thank you! Straight forward video
What made you want to pull the pump apart instead of just replacing the gasket and re loc titing the notorious for backing out bolts
Curiosity
@@micalstephenson Gotya
Talk way too much. Chop chop
lol my videos are going to make you feel like my ex wife. Disappointed. The only thing I have more of than junk to work on is words to say.
drilled way into ball joint & gave up, u might drill into the side . my death wobble was in steering box and replaced tie rods too. truck steers now but will 6.4 last! some one deleted engine and bent over backpressure tube to switch which may cause check engine light/ 12mpg.have switch/ tube ordered,may help mileage. Fix or repair daily!!!!
That sounds worse than my adventure. I actually just recently had some other bushing wear out so I decided to swap the track bar and steering bar out for the PMF bars with heims. That locked it down real nice. I need to do a video on that.
You're doing it all wrong. 😂😂
Sure felt like it
I always have an axe laying around... just in case...
Doesn’t everybody?
hmm use a pickle fork.
Great idea but I didn’t have one.
Hey I have a 84 xr350 and I am having trouble getting the 24 mil out with the engine out of the bike. It just spins.
an impact is going to be your best bet. If you don't have one, you should be able to grab onto a shaft or the clutch basket or something with a wrench. It might be a little harder but that is what you will have to do without an impact.
Great video - had all the same issues you did from the stopper to the backwards throttle cable screw - appreciate you!
Cool 🔝... will do something like that to mine... 👍👍👍👍
after removing the stub shaft, found my popping to be the ball-socket-bearing in the double cardan joint. think i will drill tap my ball joints and this ball on the tracking bar for alemites!
Did you tilt the bike like that just so you don't have to drain the oil? Or did you have to drain it either way?
Yes you don’t lose oil that way. Makes things easier.
Great job thank you
Nice and clean. Thank you
I don’t mean to laugh, but, haha on the bold drop
How many likes can one video get?!?!
Thank you so much!😊
“Things have transpired “😂😂😂
15:06 I'm having the same problem. How'd you fix it?
At that time I am explaining missing parts. I used a manual on HondaPartsHouse.com with exploded diagrams.
Una consulta, en 21:38 no pones el resorte de la palanca de embrague. No lleva?. Gracias por el video! Muy completo
Was the cam timing correct? Or did you have to move the chain a tooth over? Thanks
It was correct.
The track bar bushing caused my death wobble... Barely found it but had my fiance turn the wheels and saw the movement... I said, dang no wonder it felt like my wheels were falling off! Whole bushing was almost gone
Never struggled so hard in my life to put that rubber seal in the gas tank!😡
You really should consider using a jack to get under the car. If you notice the drain plug is at the front of the pan. You need to be able to lower the car back down to get all the oil out. There is probably a half quart or more that doesn’t drain when you are using the ramps. Just a suggestion.
Ok. I just replaced gasket on my 12' and still dipping. Hopefully its just residual oil.
There was a ton of oil on mine. I hosed it down with brake clean.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. They were a big help to me.
No need to cut. Put a bottle jack under the stud of the joint. Lift the right side of truck off ground a bit and hit the housing for the joint. Use the trucks weight to your advantage. I work at a ford dealership and this is my method!
So interestingly enough I just tried that method the other day before I read this and it worked great. So much easier!
@@micalstephenson i can’t stand watching people struggle on this repair
@@endtables hey! Question! My 2012 F250 superduty hits the frame bumps HARD. I put new rancho shocks on it and it helped for a while but it's back to feeling loose and bouncy on my driver's side. This all started after I took it to a mechanic to stop the death wobble. I'm thinking it's the coil springs? It has 200,000 miles on it. What could it be other than the coil springs? I just want it not to hit so hard when I hit bumps.
@@noeeon9910 I would definitely check all your cab mounts! They rot away and will definitely do what you are describing. I bet it’s a violent hit when it happens
@@endtables cab mounts, why didn't I think of that? I will check all of them the last time I checked they did look rotted out, I might as well replace them. Should be too costly. Thanks for the reply!
did it stop the popping
That Moog won't last long, use OEM.
I think you are right. I’m getting death wobble really bad lately and I just looked and there is a hood bit of movement in that joint. I’m now going to swap over to PMF solid track bar and drag link. Get rid of all the ball joints and rubber bushings that allow wear and movement over time.
From the experience I had on one of my Ram's (the death wobble), about 3 months ago I was on a black top road and drove through a real bad section of the road. I had the same occurrence with my F250 I did with my Ram years ago. Didn't think much about it until the other day I drove over a spot by home at about 35-40 mph and it happened again. So, I'm going to replace the ball joint and put in an aftermarket track bar. Hope that fixes it. Truck has a 111k on it and the wife won't let me buy a new one yet.
My truck has had death wobble off and on since 85k miles when I lifted it. I’m at 245k now and it’s back again. I did the wiggle test and saw movement in the lower track bar ball joint, ball joint on pitman arm, and upper track bar bushing. All 3 joints together make for a lot of movement. Going to switch to solid mounts and heims on all 3 of those. I will try to do a video and share my experience. I’m going to use PMF parts.
Thank you
When you said it made a clunk when did it do it? When you turned hard?
Turns out the clunk was a separate issue. It was the 4link bar jam nut.
@@micalstephenson but it’s when you turn hard one way or the other right? Feels like something shifts over to a side hard
My track bar was stuck to the balljoint so bad that even pigs foot on a air hammer did nothing so I had to cut the ball joint in half above the bar lol (I’m replacing track bar anyways
Damn you will ruin your engine, change the oil every 3-5000 miles.
Do a little research and don’t let the people selling you a product while making $10/hr convince you that modern science and engineering is stupid. Even the factory/manufacturers are at 10k mile intervals on these cars. And you know they are conservative since they are standing behind warranty on millions of vehicles.
@@micalstephenson they say 10k miles per oil change because they only care about the car until the warranty expires ... If you look at the oil coming out at 10k you would see it's filthy. Especially considering it's an EcoBoost engine which is a dirty engine in design it should be changed every 5k If you want to keep your vehicle for as long as possible
@@micalstephenson They're also at every 6 months regardless of oil type. I usually change the oil every 6 months and just reuse it in my truck or mower until the warranty is done anyway. My old truck is 25 years old now so it doesn't seem to mind used oil.
Chances are I won't get a reply back, but the underneath of my truck looks just like this. Oil all over my trackbar, suspension etc.. How do I know I also don't have an upper oil pan leak?
😉 you know by seeing where the highest oil is. If it’s all around by your fan than it’s from the vacuum pump most likely. If it stops at the block then it’s probably the pan gasket.
Cuanto de aceite para cada barra gracias
Creo que usé alrededor de 500 ml. Compré 2 botellas. www.partzilla.com/product/honda/08208-0010
Gracias amistad