Video

Find some good books hopefully

Glad it helped

It's down to preference I bought mine from darkside development's in the UK its a genuine Garett one. Cost me about £700 for the turbo I figure if rhe OEM turbo lasts about 130k then it's another 10 years of more driving where I don't have to think about it Depending on budgets ofc the other approach is buying a CHRA cartridge dismantling the old turbo and swapping out the internals. The CHRA is about £200 but you'd need to make sure it's not a modified as unless your car is tuned it messes on with maps and stuff You can buy CHRA cartridges from a lot of places. So it's genuinely better to look on Google for that and price matching The only thing with chra is you have to remove the turbo first. Then dismantle it snd refit it. Depending on how much time you have it could be a pain to do. It's the cheaper approach. If you need to save some money. It took me a while as I got photos for my blog. I could probably take off my turbo on a weekend now if needed as I know which parts need removing

@@RoadRunnerMeep Yes, cheers for the advice. I’ll have a look at prices and have it.

Possible bit of a weird one I'd have to look at the wiring diagram to check. I think the car has more than 1 issue tbh As far as I'm aware the ignition switch is more just a relay to route the power I don't believe it has any other function when it's fitted. Could be something something like your main cluster what's causing the issue. Have you scanned the car? Blinkers and wipers may be a body control module. Also the wipers are fitted to the bonnet lck. So if your car thinks the bonnet is open the wipers won't work

@@RoadRunnerMeep I also forgot to mention that this all went out together when a radio shop installed a radio. They shoved an antenna behind the radio and put the radio back on. Since then, the antenna was taken out and the stock radio was put back on. This did not happen when I owned the car. I bought it like this and this is what the previous owner told me. Do you know if there are any wires that are behind the radio that could possibly cause this?

It's probably the internal valve too. They seem to fail at the seal. Ships in 😁 Toilet is my parents. It's a 1950s house so expected

Thank you. Useful advice to remember

Good tip ty

@RoadRunnerMeep did mine today. It is a pig, heat sometimes works, but I ended up drilling mine, I cut the end off the cable and drilled out the plastic inside the tube, passenger side took me a while to figure it out but, the drivers side was quick.

Yeah but times I've had to do this I ended up replacing the guide tubes. If you the tube length is altered it affects the tensiono the hanfbrake. Every tip helps though I just made the video to give tips to others in same position

@RoadRunnerMeep I didn't alter the length, I just drilled out the end where the ceased plastic was stuck in the pipe. On my car, you can see where the pipe is flared at the end, so I just used a 2mm smaller drill bit ( diameter wise), once it bit into the plastic, the rest just fell out, then I used a magnet to fish out the end of the cable I cut off. It's all done now. I hope it helps you out and I can save your carpets 😆. it's a worthwhile video, though, because there isn't a lot of information about this problem.

I done this ages ago not bothered about carpets. Some people cut the ends of the tubes it's important to not that's all. I tried with a drill bit but I had no luck. I'll remember this for future attempts

I do read replies. Although I'm limited in what I can help with as I made this video several years ago now so it's kinda hard to remember it all You might have luck with an online diagram, as it shows you where all the screws and placements are. It could be when I removed mine I didn't remove all the screws. This is a 3B sedan for example. volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/passat+4motion+santana/pa/1997-221/8/827-827010/ Generally most parts on a VW come off, if you think it's stuck there's probably a screw holding in somewhere, or a clip. It's always best to wiggle and work methodically. In terms of the spring, the main C clip only lifts up a bit as it's just held in by ears. Then the clip behind can release pressure. Personally I'd remove the entire assembly if you can, it makes it loads easier when you don't have the hassle of being in a weird angle in the car and can sit comfortable in your house with a cuppa

@@RoadRunnerMeep Thanks for the timely reply, mate. I got the assembly out after a good soaking in WD40 where it goes through the door. It turns out that the wire bail only needs to be pulled away a few millimeters and not all the way out, all of which only becomes clear once the assembly is out. My problem was that even after extensive soaking I could get the key into the lock but could not turn it. Once I got the lock assembly out I managed to loosen the cylinder only by carefully heating it with a butane torch, which did the job. I sprayed it with some moly lubricant and put it all back together and all is working as it should. Your post was very helpful, perhaps this addition helps someone else. Regards!

Indeed. There's a high chance they will on the A heads but not always . My car had around 120k and still going strong.

@@RoadRunnerMeeptime will tell..

Indeed.

I know. When I replaced the turbocharger I used axle stands .

I thought I linked in my blog post. The code should be DSD1055 at Darkside. This is the one I used www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/oil-Return-line-for-1-9-and-2-0-tdi.html

Normally the signs of the ignition switch would be the noise not activating when you have your indicator or lights on and take keys out ignition and the radio switching off for example. Yours sounds more problems related to maybe an earth or control module (or possibly the instrument cluster) hell even a low battery. I'd be looking at a wiring diagram to see if you have any common earth points in the system or for broken wiring. If your headlights are flickering when moving the seat (assuming not electric seats), then it sounds like your disturbing a wire and it's rubbing somewhree, or have a loose point. I'll have a look at wiring diagrams for those parts and see if anything shows up. Have you scanned your car? I'd expect to see faults for stuff like that.

Focus on battery / ignition supply first. Most systems normally have power straight from the battery the ignition switch just completes the circuit. If you're getting intermitten power to ignition. My suggestions would be start there and work backwards, checking all wiring and connections. It may be the Terminal 15 voltage supply whats faulty, hell it could just be a loose connection on the battery itself What car model do you have btw and engine code I can see if I can find a wiring diagram fo r it?

Possibly intermittent cutting out is one of the symptoms. If your radio randomly cuts out then deffo. You should buy a cheap obd reader you can get them for £10 it would save u the hassle

@@RoadRunnerMeep my car has no engine light it's mainly in colder weather. U turn the key and it goes back off unless u hold the key on the on position and release slowly. Radio don't go off but the car goes off

Could just be starter motor. A car doesn't always have to light up with a fault. My car didn't display any check engine light when I had the fault. Scan the car man it saves you time and stops you just replacing parts for no reason. You can get an obd on eBay and can use the 409 version of vcds to scan for errors

@@RoadRunnerMeep oh thanks for the help the guy at the garage was telling me it's not a big thing it's the ignition switch it's been like this for about 2 year's now

Np. The job itself is easy to do. It's just I prefer cars to be scanned first I don't like spending money unless I know the problem for deffo. Recommend getting an obd reader it will save u the hassle

Tried it. I wrote a basic python program to delve into it. I'm not very good at sticking to things though unless I have a goal or time limit. My mind switches interests a lot so I'll do something that probably not touch it for months or years. Real life always takes priority first to me because I have different goals at the minute but going to delve into it at later date. I'm doing electronics projects currently so I'll probably have to relearn python and programming again to write the code I want to use.

I wrote about it in more detail on my blog but for an OEM turbo and the turbo oil fitting pipe as a minimum retaining everything else it's ~£750

@@RoadRunnerMeep cheers for the reply. My 2.0 tdi needs new turbo. Was looking about fir a price. Great blog, thanks for your content

Np hope it helps you. I tried to document the main procedures

I had issues with my turbo I decided to remove and repair and reassemble I saved about £1000 in parts and labour it’s dooablal on your driveway over a weekend on your own the hardest part is access to the turbo manifold bolts it’s just easier to remove the cooler completely once turbo is out open it up and clean the VNT of all the carbon and then delete your egr completely

If you where local I’d repair your turbo for you on your driveway don’t go buying a new turbo the one you got just needs a clean

I can only speak for myself but my decisions were based on the evidence presented and my own thought process. How I voted was based on this same information. I can't be swayed like this. But there can be a lot of bias in certain cases

@@RoadRunnerMeepWell done..... if it were a perfect jury then each jury would have a leader like yourself who knows their own mind and would make sure to be listened by the rest of the jurors and hopefully justice would prevail. Unfortunately the selection process for jury’s in the UK is flawed and hence we get so many innocent people convicted due to court room drama and fantasy being played out in our courts.

I guess that's the illusion of looking impartial so the process seems "fair"

Not that I'm aware of. It's just a contact switch from what I can work out. The wires will just carry the voltage signal. All I did was buy the matching part number on eBay and fit it. I didn't look up any coding or do any

Thank you

Don't care

It's awkward to get to but managed to remove the EGR cooler pipe from the turbo manifold when I was doing it. I didn't have to remove the EGR cooler itself. I got access from above and below the car. You can probably get away with removing the nuts on the turbo rather than the cooler. It's easier to reattach removing both just a bit fiddly.

@@RoadRunnerMeep Thanks very much mate .

Np. The pipe that attaches to the turbo you can remove by reaching behind the turbo from underneath. The nuts that attach to the EGR cooler at the top remove via engine bay. It's a bit hard to describe over this. But if you follow the EGR pipe to the cooler the two bolts are there you can see where it joins. Deffo recommend removing the driveshaft though it's very easy once removed if your engine is the same layout as mine

Yes I’ve removed my EGR and cooler completely diverted the coolant flow and blanked both ends of EGR now have more access to the turbo manifold bolts if need be in the future but my main issue was the VNT ring inside the turbo was clogged with carbon once I cleaned it all out and re installed I had no limp mode at all

You got lucky then. I dismantled my turbo it was fubar inside. Even the VNT locator pins snapped . Still I'm going to buy some parts and rebuild as a spare . Some people remove the EGR some don't it can be done either way.

I'm still looking at that myself. The SRI reset works on Golf. Same feature doesn't work on my current car (Audi A3 8p) not sure yet will update when I figure out!

I'm glad it helped you Mikko. I'm none the wiser myself there's probably a reason for it. Most likely money saving I guess. Every penny is a penny less to build.

@@RoadRunnerMeep That figures. A 5 cm bent spring steel is cheaper than two bolts.

Can one remove the whole mechanism if the spring is already missing? Is it needed to lift something with it in order to release it from the car, or if the spring is missing/removed it will be still possible to have it done?

I believe you can still remove it. The spring itself should just be for the return on the lock or return for the handle. You should be able to prise up with another screwdriver if needed. But I don't believe it's needed in order to remove it. Just for it function

Thanks for your answer! I will give it another try. For sure it feels more loose (and gets looser) without the spring. There was a lot of water in there and maybe some rust formed somewhere and I cannot easily remove the mechanism.

Indeed 5 months later my turbocharger gave an overboost code. I replaced the turbo yesterday

@@RoadRunnerMeep 😢 but lucky you got a chance to upgrade

@@achimouma1117 Indeed, it's done now. Car back to full power again.

2007 onwards was normally the c revision head. Check the comments for the correct place to look. When I first made this video I was looking at the wrong place

Thank you for the feedback Ahmed. Im glad it helped you.ive written more articles on my website if you come across other mk5 problems you may need help on

Glad I could help thank you for comment

Yep. Just needed a new intercooler hard pipe and clips. I wrote about it on my blog. I think I put a link in the CZcams summary

I'm not sure what year they started using the revised cylinder heads. Check the cylinder head version out yourself. Make a note of the comments it's around the EGR for the correct one. I'll do an updated version of this video at some point. Take it with a pinch of salt really it may go, it may not. I took this from Briskoda forums if it helps, ideally 2007 onwards.... 03G 103 308 A years 2003 to 2005.55 allmost all cracked 03G 103 308 B years 2005.5 to 2006.6 only a few cracked 03G 103 308 C years 2006.5 to 2007.5 none cracked

@@RoadRunnerMeep thanks bud

@@RoadRunnerMeep i forgot to mention in last post, its a 2011 Octavia 2.0 tdi pd

I'm glad you took the time to reply to a video I made several years ago. 🙄 it's not like other people have made corrections since I posted it

@@RoadRunnerMeep l only saw it now and correct it as your description is wrong.

Ty

Glad it helped you. Mine was too far gone but overhauling helps:) Make it a regular fast to check it often

Could be water getting into the gearbox. Ecu or possibly the dash. I know certain gearboxes were affected for a different fault but that wouldn't stop car starting. The rain channels used to get blocked under the battery on my Passat have you got any on yours under wiper cowl. Sometimes they were plugged with leaves

@sj Plug and play, no programming needed, it's just an electrical contact thats all

@@RoadRunnerMeep Thank you for your reply 👍🏼

I think you have multiple problems Glen. The stereo going on/off when driving for sure is the ignition starter switch. Your other issues suggest you also have a problem with the ignition barrel itself (possibly). Without scanning the car with VCDS it's impossible to tell the faults you have with the vehicle to know for sure. My best guess is one of these 1) Faulty starter switch and ignition barrel. The doors locking could be something to do with the ignition barrel dropping a live connection. The jammed keys in the ignition is most likely a faulty barrel. I would be surprised if it's the starter doing this, but it could be not fully engaged or locking in properly at the same time. This could be dropping the vehicle live OR 2) Faulty starter switch, faulty door wiring and possibly faulty ignition barrel too. You may want to consider stripping down the steering column housing around the barrel, see if there are any obvious issues. If you can't get access to a scantool / VCDS. I'd look at replacing the starter switch first. Do you have lots of weight on your car keys for example, if you hang heavy weights on the ignition, it can damage the barrel itself.

@@RoadRunnerMeep Thanks for your response! I ordered a new starter switch because it looks like the easier first step. Will see what happens and move to the next step. The door locking issue could be faulty door wiring... these Audi's apparently have a problem with pinching the wiring in the doors where they open and close... I had to solder the wires on the drivers door and heat shrink them all because of door locks and windows not operating properly, so maybe I'm having residual problems from that... not sure. The key getting stuck in the ignition barrel is rare, but happens from time to time. CAN I SPRAY LUBRICANT IN THE BARREL TO HELP? I think I should just sell the damn car... it's a 2008 Audi A3 v6... fun and nice to drive, but all the typical things are starting to break on it. Thanks again!!!!!

Try taking your keys out the ignition. If your radio stays on chances are it's the ignition starter. If you have access to VCDS scan the car to make sure. The part is around £35, so you don't want to spend the money if it's not required. In terms of replacement, it's really easy. Have a look at the guide I wrote for the steps. It took me about 1 hour because I was taking photos. If you familiarise yourself with the guide and have a look at your car first though, it will probably only take around 30 mins. The slowest part is getting the screwdrivers in place to remove it. It's easy enough though.

Ha, congrats man :)

Eh ?

Why change something that makes them money. The locks themselves are good. I think its pr9bably just a poor design on location why the seize up. I imagine due to the grills

Thank you. I'll look into it if needed. Although there are different types, mine flares up from stress. I've managed mine for a few years now

No probs. Hope it helps. Take a book or magazine. You could be waiting

I know thanks. This video was made several years ago :) I'll take your advice

Ha ha ha. Bravo..

Nope. The cylinder head revision is in he location I give in this video.

@@RoadRunnerMeep the code from the video is from head cover but the code from head is under AGR. I have the engine down... ;)

The codes from your video is from camshaft cover 03G 103 308 A,B,C (the letter indicates the revision of head). The real important code is from the head, and thi is with code: 03G 103 373 A (with problems, crack) With B (with problems, crack) And with C letter problem resolved. The heads with most cracks is vith that versions: V125,v130, v320, v330 (all with A letter). Now i change my engine by another for this problem, cracks in head and leaks coolant on cylinders.

@@sebiosip thank you. I'll have to look into this further as even when. I was research g this all the information I found myself pointed to the head. I'll have to look Perhaps it's a quick check. If your car has an A camshaft cover changes are the head is an A too

My engine is with A revision and A code from the head (the head with cracks issue), the new engine is from 2007, with C revision :) but....with A code on the head :(

I'm well aware but as long as the engine is looked after it means nothing. My car had about 120k and pulled like a train without any signs of failure

@@RoadRunnerMeep I agree with you.It is VW problem,not owner's.They had troubles with heads,and with C head everything is well

Ty

@@RoadRunnerMeep Co ja?

Thank you

Yep. Common shit 😂