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Nice! 😀

If you've swapped the channels over and only the trigger is working it might be time for a new receiver :-/ That said, have you triple-checked that you haven't accidentally turned the steering D/R all the way down?

Nice! Love an easy fix.

Thanks!

What did you break? They are pretty good to work on 🙂

Thanks!

You'd have to look up an in depth video for the actual differences, but basically if an engine manufacturer specifies synthetic oil, that's what you have to use. 2-stroke engines have super-high rpms compared to 4-stroke, and if there isn't enough lubrication parts wear more rapidly and can fail, and fail more destructively.

I see, which one would you personally recommend/use Shell semi synthetic (affordable and abundant) or Castrol 2T fully synthetic (expensive and hard to get)

@@CCXR-r6p As Dad always used to say, "good oil is cheaper than a new engine".

Really depends on the individual servo, but personally, Shell. Overall though it's better to go for newly built stations with less corrosion in the systems, and busier stations that get refilled more regularly. All that said - the Rovan probably won't tell the difference either way.

Woo!

Depends on where you are from, but if your Australian, here: hobbiesdirect.com.au/index.php?route=product/search&search=trd%20tacoma

Hard to say without knowing what ESC you are referring to, the one in the car, or a different unbranded one you bought? As far as we know, there are no programming options for the ESC in the 9125.

@@HobbiesDirect Thanks Sir, so far i need a new esc and servo upgrade

@@HobbiesDirect anw…! Im about to upgrade esc hobby 1080 G2 on this XLH and using tbs nano rx (boxer tx)… will it be good choice???

You would need an FPV setup (obviously), but that could be separate from the rest of your vehicle. The FPV system will have it's own receiver (in the glasses), as it's the camera on the vehicle that is doing the transmitting. For an all-in-one solution, expect a lot of custom work.

@HobbiesDirect thanks alot. Actually now I fully understand it now after alot of research. Gonna look into using an advanced flight controller called Pixhawk.

Learning the hard way sucks - did that to a Tamiya DT-02 back in the day. But it's been rebuilt!

Haha you are very welcome! :-)

Nice!

You're welcome! 😀

If the battery voltage is too low, the b3 won't be able to detect it and won't charge. Can you check the voltage with another device? Or use a smart charger maybe at a hobby shop?

What is overheating, the charger or the battery? A usb charger should be easily capable of charging a 1200mah 2S pack. You could also look at something like the GT Power B3, but a smart charger is ideal for all lipo packs.

A lot of those higher-octane fuels have a high ethanol content, which is not something the Rovan engine and fuel system likes; stick to regular.

I see, but my country has banned ethanol fuels to be sold in stations so my country has ethanol free gas from 95RON (regular) to 100RON. should I still go for it? I know this car needs a minimum of 91RON but I just want to try a higher octane fuel and see if it runs differently. Thanks!

@@cpmagic6454 You can try it, it won't hurt anything. But it likely won't be any better; fuel quality is more important than a higher octane rating for these engines.

@@HobbiesDirect I see, thanks so much for the reply Aaron!

@@cpmagic6454 No worries! 🙂

Oh no! Definitely have spark and doing the choke procedure properly? Get in touch with our customer service team and we'll get you sorted 🙂

Thanks!

You'll need a 2S lipo and charger separately.

There isn't really one radio to rule them all, as each manufacturer uses their own programming and protocols. Radiomaster is the closest though, like this: hobbiesdirect.com.au/p/50520/radiomaster-tx16s-mk-2

First thing to check would be the controller itself - try blasting out the trigger potentiometer with compressed air and contact cleaner :-)

@@HobbiesDirect I completely disassembled the remote control and the car, cleaned and reassembled it, but it still didn't work. The gas potentiometer inside the remote control was broken. I fixed it by changing the place of the gas potentiometer with the steering wheel potentiometer. Thank you.

@@sonercakir3d Nice! Well done 🙂

Nice! Happy to help!

As long as the gears stay roughly the same size (and therefore the ratios), and all the pads fit and stuff, the pitch doesn't change anything.

@HobbiesDirect not having a problem with pitch my problem is the it goes all the way against the housing instead of having some space like the factory one that came on it

Nice!

As long as the servo is definitely getting all the volts it needs, it sounds like there might be a fault with the servo itself :-/ Does it still play up if you turn TSM all the way off?

@@HobbiesDirect Yes I think still screws around with it off. It started a while after installing the new servo, quite a few outtings, not immediately. *[edit]* Also, again, it's not all the time, it can just magically fix itself. It makes no sense. Thanks for the reply by the way.

Lipos are DC, but require a proper charger to not get overcharged and potentially explode.

Yep! Brushless motors need to be controlled by a brushless ESC, and there's very few ESCs out there at can do both brushless and brushed. You don't technically *need* a fan, but you do need to stop the ESC overheating. If it's not getting to hot you might get away with not having a fan, but its not recommended.

Glad it helped :-)

Regular paint is not flexible, so it'll flake off pretty quickly.

If you are doing the procedure properly and it still won't bind, then there must be a fault with the receiver :-/

Thanks!

@@HobbiesDirect Yes👏👏👏

Just outside of Geelong in Victoria, Australia :-)

Did you maybe bump the D/R down on your radio?

@@HobbiesDirectyes I have mine at the max and it still would not turn but it would drive forward and backward just not turn

@@HobbiesDirectI didn’t mean yes I meant no sorry😅

@@HobbiesDirect I think my servo has burned out😢 I don’t think it was the d/r because I have mine on top of my remote with a hatch to close it

@@magmagold2969 If there's no signs of life at all, then it might be time for a new servo :-/ If you plug it into channel 1 instead, you can see if it moves with the trigger. If it does, then it's likely the receiver that's the problem.

Either the servo saver is too loose, something is broken in the rack, or the gears are slipping :-/

@@HobbiesDirect Ok at least I know what to look for. Thanks!

Glad to hear it!

Sounds like the trims are off, are they set to zero?

@HobbiesDirect will give it a look thanks...

They really do handle well!

We think so too :-)

It really helps!

Probably? Assume lots of custom work would be needed.

😀