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Great job. This is the first video I’ve watched that has actually sold me on Bessel clamps.

I've been following along so far, but finally hit my first snag and no amount of googling is getting me unstuck. For some reason whenever I set the dimension of the fillet (@21:34) to Stockthickness / 2 or 9mm the panel bodies themselves vanish and all I'm left with is a bullnose floating in space. I've rewatched it a dozen times and am doing everything exactly the same as the video. Anyone have any idea what is up? Edit - I played around with just changing it to various dimensions and found that anything over 6mm, which is Stockthickness / 3, would cause the panels to vanish. If I set it to Stockthickness / 3 (or 6mm) the bullnose works perfectly. I am not certain why it is doing this. Edit 2 - It turns out when I extruded the top half of my shelf I set the dimension to "Joinery / 2" and not "Stockthickness / 2". I did set the bottom half correctly though, so it was totaling 12mm in thickness instead of 18mm. Editing that extrude in the timeline and setting it to the correct parameter fixed things. I'm able to set the bullnose radius to "Stockthickness / 2" with no issues. 🥳

Your channel should be the official instruction manual for all their products. Many functions are simply too complex to be clearly explained on paper. This channel is the definitive missing link. Well done!

I'm not sure that your quote "this is 0.005° plus or minus" is correct. I've just checked the product page and as of June 2024 they are only claiming "the machined part is accurate within 5 microns and ensuring the angles are accurate within +-0.05 degrees". I think this may only be referring to the visible angle markings. I can't find them publicly making any guarantees about the physical angle accuracy of any of their squares. It may've been something that he mentioned to you in person, but it doesn't seem to be a claim they're making publicly.

Excellent video thanks

Hi, Great video, I was just wondering though on the guide hole size of the ruler. Does the Festool 5mm centering bit fit properly as apposed to the 4mm Benchdog centering bit it was designed for? Thanks

Something I would highly recommend for future videos and projects is to stop brushing your hand and fingers across the blade like you do on 15:57, 16:21, 16:48 and throughout this video. Be careful my friend.

That hose is around £150. I didn’t see £150 quids worth of upgrade for me.

Pretty shitty dust collection for the price!

When I created the pattern at around 5:30 and set the length to "Bookcaselength" the last panel was only going half of the Stockthickness over the edge. That meant when I set the length to "Bookcaselength - Stockthickness" the panel was set back about half the thickness from the end instead of lining up. I couldn't figure out what was going on and then I noticed in my pattern menu the "Start Point" value was defaulting to 0.004 for some reason. Changing that to 0.00 (same as in your video) made everything line up perfectly. Also the checkbox for "Suppression" in the menu needs to be ticked to get the checkboxes on each of the panels so that you can deselect the ones you don't want. Just writing this comment out in case someone else encounters a similar problem and goes trolling the comment section for help. Great series thank you!

Any chance you can show how this saw work doing bevel rip? it seems dangerous having the blade tilt towards the fence.

I LOVE my couple of Festool tools, but when it came to the workbench, like you, small space and stability was required not portability. I wasn’t happy with the stability of the Festool MFT. So I built a heavy Roubo bench and use traditional spring steel holdowns and a birdsmouth. Never regretted it! and no holes for small stuff to fall through.

whats the best clone of the woodpeckers

Thank you for the review, it was very helpful. Could you possibly review the Axminster MFT workbench? On this side of the pond is hard to get great reviews. I am considering ditching the massive workbench and getting a Axminister workbench, Benchdogs fence system and now the Ultra rail square.

145 gbp? 275 AUD for a triangle square??? Wow... my milling machine is going to pay for itself in no time. THAT is your no brainer...

I have just bought one of these from amazon. Model number is the same as yours but I too found the rollers to be a very bad design. If you tighten the screws the rollers lock up, if you slacken the screws there is every chance they will fall out after a short time. Also, the holes through the rollers is much larger than the screws so the roller flops about. I was also missing one roller. I intend to replace the bolts with shoulder bolts. The angles are all about 1deg less than they should be.

Get your elbow and hand OFF the tabletop. Ok the saw is not running but normalisation of deviance …….

Is that a CS50 table saw you’ve got there?

Thank you for this. You not only shared a lot of details but also the rationale behind your choices. A great learning experience for me. 😅😅😅

It looks very precise! People seem to love it apart from the battery power source!

Looks like a toy... Too small for any real work

Hi Andy, Your broken tap is probably the result of having no lubrication and simply twisting the tap into the hole. The technique for cutting a thread is a couple of turns to get it started and so you can check perpendicularity then it is half a turn on the tap and then back in reverse, back to where you stopped and another half turn then back again then repeat until fully threaded. As for lubrication I think paraffin is the one used on aluminium although to be frank anything is better than nothing, I used silicone spray. Another point to mention to any DIYer’s taps normally come in threes namely tapered, intermediate and plug or bottoming. The tapered tap is used first it has tapered threads with only full threads on the last 1/3rd the taper enables you to get the first part of the tap in the hole and enables you to get it perpendicular. The Intermediate tap has a slight taper and full threads from about halfway up the tap. The bottoming tap is fully threaded along its entire length. The supplied tap looks to me as though it is an intermediate tap so has to be driven in almost to the end to guarantee full threads in the hole. Care needs to be exercised removing the tap as it can easily strip away a thread particularly in soft materials like aluminium.

Bought 1 through Fruugo . At least it wasn't a $6000 combination machine this time . Chinese garbage . No bearings or bushings in the wheels ground flats as soon as I tried to use it because the bolts tightened up as I used it .

Hi Andy, one question why was you tapping out the extra holes when you only needed two? By the way I sent my mk2 rail square back to Ralph and they did the upgrade.

Hey Andy, nice video and great explanation, as usual. To give you a heads up and to everyone else, the top 2 holes are for festool, Milwaukee and the bottom 2 holes are for Makita, Triton Erbauer and Excel and its not necessary to do the other holes if you don't intend to use different tracks. There is a document and 3d print file available online in the product description if anyone requires them.

The thing that concerns me about the MK3 is that it seems like the 'wings' obscure the reference edge from view.

My Festool Mk2 ultimately ended up being as good as useless. It’d frequently be 2-3mm out from one end to the other when crosscutting a 8x4 sheet of MDF. What made it worse is it was never consistent.

Been waiting for one of my CZcams friends to do this before I bought the kit from Ralph so thank you. Would you recommend drilling a 3.5 mm hole after the 3.3mm to make the 4mm tap less problematic? Cheers buddy 👍👍

Great video Andy, this is an upgrade I would like to make. I’ve had my eye on the fence and quad hinge so when I do order them I’ll put one of these in the cart. Thanks

Maybe your 4mm Thread cuter breaks because you didn’t use it the right way. It’s important that you go straight with 90 degrees in the hole. I think that was the first mistake, the second: 2 turns in - 1 turn out, 2 turns in - 1 out… to break the metal chip.

Wish I had thought of this sooner. My wife has been in London for the past week and is leaving in the early morning. I should have had BenchDogs send a kit to her hotel. The pain point for me is paying the international shipping on something I feel was a flawed design from the start.

Good for making dolls houses if your minted.

American early adopter of the upgrade kit; all I got was the clasp, screws and directions. You received a much better kit. I really could have used that 3D printed jig. I thought the cams were brilliant; but the camming action was not quite right and they would loosen up on me so sprung for the blue TSO guide rail squares which have, in actual practice, been a much easier tool to use. Now, using a T square along the cutting edge of the rail and the body of the MK2 rail square - it's not square at all - off a good 3/32 over 16". So I need to do some further testing by cutting up some wood. Using a large 45 degree square on the inside things seem fine. sigh.

So this is very niche this week, bit of a response to those wanting more information about the MK2 clasp upgrade. It’s a good job I’m not chasing views 😂 Enjoy…

The link says Veico! Why you keep calling it Banggood? I’m confused!

Great video. I love this saw with one exception, it's exclusively battery powered. I want the reliability of a corded version and not have to replace batteries every few years plus dealing with the batteries needing charged before use. I get it, the corporations want subscribers not buyers. If they ever make a corded version I would be very interested in getting one. If you have access to the suits at Festool it would be appreciated if you could pass this opinion on.

Was hoping to see the new clip attachment for the MK2 square being fitted? Got a great maths lesson instead!🤣👍

Great video to help new owners get started. I've found that the best location to store that red handled tool is in the trash bin!😂

You also need light module for your OF1400 czcams.com/users/shorts1Cih0GhS1AA

It's called a jack plane. used to love a belt sander then discovered a No 5 1/2. Makes light work of most panels.

The drill bit depth bush and the guides did not fit the drill bit they sent with mine. (Also, my guides came out of the jig) I tried the Kreg bit I have, and it also didn't fit in the guides. I'm in the process of getting this corrected by Banggood but it seems to be a lengthy process where they asked me to provide pictures, a video, and then to circle the defective components on a picture they sent to me. I'm about to give up and ask for a refund. Too bad really.

Just wondering if you are having any issues with the feed belt tracking? I've seen a few videos with people struggling that problem.

The only Festool item that I can afford is a ruler, but I still watch these videos 😂

Enjoyable video, especially the part about following the grain. I think I may be going nuts but I'm sure you said this machine was in the region of £700 to £800 in 2020? I know we've had inflation but the cheapest Axminster Planner thicknesser I can find is £1699. I must have mis heard and can't find the bit where you mentioned this.🤣 The only thing Axminster do at that price is a Thicknesser. I cant afford or justify one of these, no matter how much I'd like one. Anywhooo onwards and upwards lol.

Thankyou. A very clear and extremely helpful series of videos. I look forward to trying these joints on my new incra setup.

the Porter Cable PC560 Quik JIg and Porter Cable 552 were my introduction to pocket holes and are still my go to 25+ years later. Did not know that Castle had licensed the tech to Porter Cable until recently, if true?

If it ain't a kreg, it ain't a pocket hole jig

Hi all, Final review video for a while, another awesome tool - this time a pockey hole Jig. Enjoy Andy

Thanks for the video! How wide of a panel do you think you can comfortably cut with this sled now? I have the same problem with my small saw.

@Woodgrafter Hi, great video. I was wondering, did you come up with that "Cheat Sheet for Box Joints" that you show beginning at 7:03 in the video or did you download that from somewhere? I would love to have pdf copies of all joint cheat sheets if you have them. Many Thanks, Lester