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D7000 also, FN can put it on spot metered. or other options

I have a very similar setup on the D500 on my wildlife /sports shooting bank. Manual with auto iso (max set to 12k). Continuous high and Qc shooting modes. Back button focus with AF-on set to group focus, and joystick press to single point. Since when im using group focus it's for a moving/action shot and I'm trying to keep subject in the middle of the frame. For stationary subjects i can move the focus point with joystick to suit composition then focus by pressing the joystick button. I keep metering in matrix mode, but the front function and preview buttons are set to spot metering and highlight metering. These are super useful when you don't have an evf allowing for quick adjustments in exposure and it means rarely do i need to touch exposure compensation. Im usually shooting wide open or 1 stop down, and shutter is usually at 1/250 or 1/2000. So even though im in manual, I only need to make 1 adjustment when switching between moving and stationary subjects. This basically means all I have to do is get the composition correct, and the front buttons take care of exposure and the back buttons take of the focus. i think a cool feature would be when pressing AF-On auto focus+plus group area focus, if it also was programmed to switch the shutter speed to 1/2000. Then its like an auto action button

I will go with the Samyang 135mm for Astrophotography. I already have the 14mm for Sony, and the 12mm for Fujifilm. I will get the 135mm for Canon. ❤

Excellent Teaaching Video, Thank You

you only see difference with pixel peeping Will keep the old one

Great review. I’m going with the 200-500mm version. That works great for me. The background music is really annoying. I need to hear what you are saying with no distractions. Thanks for sharing this video with us. ❤❤❤

135mm for me is the ultimate portrait lens followed closely by the sigma 105mm f1.4

Beautiful duck... enjoyed your two in one video tour to your home town!

Thank you so much for superb explaining

Great video, can I please ask how do you assign the front button for focus as you mentioned?

Did you set up the video camera?

Thank you for this! I made the same mistake with my new Z8 as I was trying to keep the lens wide open. Found out I have to use all manual or shutter priority.

I have both versions of vr none vr ,FL none fl , theyre all brilliant lenses even in 2024, i can grab the wrong camera with older version none vr 24-70 and it wouldnt bother me for a second , images are that good from both ,

Thanks for the video. Do you set up AE hold button to lock the exposure?

Thanks for the great video! FYI You can set the joystick to move your focus point while also pushing it to focus at the same time. I Use the back button for 25 point group, and the joystick for single point. Most of my shots are moving, so rarely use single, just thought you'd like to know that since you mentioned using the joystick and front button at the same time. Super handy once you get used to it!

Gracias, saludos desde México :)

It's easy to imagine that you need the latest mirrorless camera and only z "s" rated glass to take a good photo. It seems DSLRs and F mount glass can ( at least in Rob's hands) take stellar shots.

The best video that I have encountered so far on how to set up one’s camera while shooting birds or wildlife. The informal approach helped a lot. Keep up the good work.

Totally agree. I just can't believe how great this lens is. Beautiful Beautiful Bokeh, and sharp sharp portrait lens.

I'm a D850 shooter and do a lot of wildlife (still as a hobby). For that I use a friends' Sigma 150-600 C but I find that lens has 3 major problems: - it's heavy handhold - it's not sharp enough to my eyes in not-perfect light conditions and needs to get stopped down to around f8 - it's not weather sealed (which is horrifying when using it in rain or snowfall and it's also not my lens 😄) I'm quite attracted to that 500mm PF I must say. Of course it's still an f5.6 which still needs more light than a f2.8 or so but I think it might be a good choice... I'm now saving money to buy one 😄

@ 2:50 you can do this through the app.

This is a fantastic presentation.Thank you very much.I am following all your guidelines. I am using a nikon d7500 and was not able to assign group area mode to F1 button.Is it not possible in d7500 ? If possible can you please mention how to do that

Looks like you need a better focus setting for your video. Lol

Any thoughts on the new 180-600? I actually still lean towards the 500 pf for my z5 😂 especially since it’s half the price in the used market now

Hi, what is the triangle sign in front of aperture number on the screen display? Now I can’t change my Aperture number any more. Would you help please? Thank you

I did not understand what kind of ERR is occuring by switchin LOCK at time 11:45 and why ?.

Great work. Honest comparison. You got it right about the 200-500. Great lens with a poor build quality

Excellent coverage.

Excellent one Rob! Thanks

Interesting setup, I use my D500 with the front button focus. Ken Rockwell, who I've followed since the pre-web days, uses a full step for changing exposure values. Old film camera habits. Overall a great tutorial, very well explained.

I know this is an old review. But would like to know if one can use the zoom lens hood onto the PF lens. :)

Would you be able to tell me what camera and lens Sue is using please ty

6:18 7:04

Great video! Very well done and very informative, thank you sir. I’m using my osmo pocket with a backpack mount to record my leisurely bike rides not sure if that counts as much of a sport but still. Have you tried recording your runs while holding osmo in your hand by any chance?

Excellent tutorial! Thank you

Well... As an amateur, everything is way too expensive. I just said screw it and settled on something I can get by on, including not maxing out my credit. The 200--500 will have to do. The prices have come down because everyone wants the latest and greatest.... My benefit. Besides... My job doesn't rely on me having the latest & greatest.

Hope to see you back soon Rob. If not wish you all the best with your current and future ventures

Thank you )))

Auto ISO has really increased my enjoyability for photography. It's not 100% but I would say that its increased the likelihood I get the shot, or atleast get something I can edit. Atleast, I can use it until I understand it a bit better. But I can use Exposure compensation to fine tune. Great video and some really wonderful photos. Thanks.

For the difference in Price I guess the zoom is ok for the average enthusiast

step 1: buy an ipad

4 years later... I finally got one used for $2,500 in mint condish... it arrives Friday!

Liked your video alot, a very honest review and loved the funny intro!! I have done exactly the same with the checkout, but these lenses are really expensive for a beginner like me. For the moment I have decided to become better at using my existing material rather than buying better lenses or better camera!

Most people starting their edit will not have such a sharp image! Wish it was more relatable haha.. but good flow!

Nice job Thank you I use some of these, but you gave me some ideas.

your video audio is too low. the ads were blasting because I had to turn the volume so high to hear you. Otherwise I am interested in the comparison of these lenses and think your assessment is worth hearing. Don't sell yourself short by mumbling through your presentation.

Excellent brother thanks and salute your high quality experience.🤝🤝🤝

What about setting it at waist level??

I hope you mentioned these problems to the company so they can make changes. Did you?

Hmm, looking at your 200-500 shots, even the ones with still animals, it looks like you've got the same calibration issues I had. Although mine was front focusing, your seems like it's back focusing? Either way, I'm sure the prime will be sharper :)