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Cheers Tony, good video actually using the product instead of a sales pitch!

The dealership would would want 3k, plus the shock.....Great job Sir !!!

What a waste of my time...didnt even show flush. Gfy

Hi Tony: Let me ask you a question. I know my Rear shock is gone, the dealer confirmed this. I already removed the Rear Shock. An independent mechanic shock tells me the front is gone too (He says he can tell just by looking at it). I did the bounce test you did in your video but my bike was on the Center Stand (Not the side one), the front bounces just once then it stops, it does not bounce multiple times like yours (I did this after I removed the Rear Shock). Does this mean the Front Shock is OK?? Removing the front is a lot more work than the Rear and I don't want to do it if I don't have to. I am getting the shock rebuilt. What do you think?? Thank you.

Hi Tony, Do you have to remove the front wheel to do this? And lift it off the ground or can the wheel stay on the ground and remove the shock ? Also, can the Gas tank be pushed back to gain access to the bolt or does it have to be completely removed ?? Thanks.

Dedicated, persistent, meticulous is all I can say. I have a great deal of respect for you.

Could I get the part number for the door man connections

Hope mine doesn’t go bad. Unfortunately the dealer will be doing it. I don’t have the patience for that. lol. You did a great job. Very informative.

Dang you cut cleanly and geometrically

Wants to be good ,,,it's brand new 🥱, let us know when it's nearly worn out

Very helpful. Thank you!

Six cylinders, 3 has to be middle. No troubleshooting required

Found it, Radiator cap removal czcams.com/video/lOGCoZscq44/video.htmlsi=i_dNcbM41Hvvw_6D&t=74

Thank you Tony for your valuable video on this subject. Started this job tonight. Mine is running worse and worse over last year, still no check engine though. Wondering if i have corroded coil or plug causing it. Anyway bought 6 rm stator coils and ngk plugs. Not messing about once in there. Packed up for the night at point of removing the secondary air tube. Started tug on it with tyre spoons. Been scouring the internet for tips, not many around. Tempted to go at it with wd40 and hot air gun, before trying again?! Also cannot work out how to remove the radiator cap, but wondering now if you need to loosen it then push down and turn to undo it the rest of the way? Might allow the stop position in the cap to clear the plastic interference? Interesting job this one.

Fill the reservoir, open the cap just to brake the seal and the coolant will go in, once filled and just tighten the radiator cap back and refill the reservoir.

Cheers Tony, just had a coil fail (my second) mine is #4. Thought i'd watch your video as a reminder. Great video.

Thanks for the review. Good job very informative!

Appreciate the video. Just a heads up, check steel if it is stainless steel with a magnet is not the correct way. One can actually have magnetic ss.

A bmw and vmax ... living right

change your PTU fluid as well.

It's a very good machine !! It's a pleasure to see you so enjoy with your machine 👍have a good time !! (I'm French)

A man with spirit! I like your style brother.

Nice clip!! Let me know when you’re ready to ride a real bike!!! Roll with KRT and you’ll be looking like a model by the end of summer.

I believe that your biggest problem is you are using the demounting/mounting bar backwards(reversed?). The grab handle should be facing away from the center bar allowing you to grab it and help pull around when mounting. Also, put a strap through the wheel and around one of the 3 base bars to keep your wheel from spinning. NoMar says you don't need it, but I think it helps greatly. Lastly, mounting to your van is great for space savings but your rear shocks were bouncing as you applied pressure, thus losing some of your force. Put a jack under the rear (hitch) to stop it's bouncing. Just some ideas to try! Great video!!

Thanks Tony. Spraying some lube on the rubber parts of that air tube did the trick! My wife thinks we're related after she heard your commentary! 😂 Hope the RM Stator coils last longer than the OEM

Notice "no mar" has comments turned off for their videos, they don't want the truth out about how bad this is for most tires. It might be OK for track days but not for most touring bikes.

Great Great Great !!!

Tony your video's are top notch, thanks for sharing!

Thanks, very helpful

LOL. Hiccups aside you are my kind of mechanic. Great video. I do stuff too...

Do you have one for replacing the Rear Shock please ? Thanks.

Thanks Tony, mine was worn the exact same way. I used a T head to replace the OE fitting and everything worked perfect! I just found a random brass T head and that did the job. I hopefully routed the lines to minimize vibrations. Thanks for your service!

I have a 2013 taurus the transmission is acting like it low of fluid but its not the tran smission man said the filter is stoped up it has 175,000 miles fluid changed every 30,000 miles 2.0 ecobost .

Lower ball joint does not need to be removed. How about checking BMW documentation

Can thw washer nozzle come out of there or is one whole new cowl piece

Fine Job Tony!

10:59 pun intended?😂

Hi Tony, Just got a 2012 K1600 GT. Both shocks seems to be dead, it is like riding on Gravel the entire time. Front mirrors and panel vibrates and shakes, front end dives when I brake. The rear moves when I make adjustments to the ESA but I do feel every pot and hole in the road. Bike has 90K miles on it. So I will need to replace both shocks, what a nightmare. Not sure where you live as I could use the help. Thanks, great videa.

Very informative. I'll be watching the fairing removal video next. Got a #5 to replace soon.

Great review Tony. Sweet machine! 👍👍

have you had any trouble with new coil yet???? i am going to replace all 6 and plugs thanks

Well ya know honestly changing my own tires now with my very own new No Mar HD Classic is not quite as much fun as riding my 2023 Yama MT-10 in the Twisties (the bike is a BEAST! Soooo much fun but it just EATS tires!) There is something gratifying about the challenge ya know? It sort of like beating another rider except I am beating a crafty ubber hoop instead... I mean it feels good honestly in a very strange way so maybe it is worth the money? I mean its not misearable....no registration or insurance either or fuel oil and maintence to speak of! Fairly safe too I recon idk what do you think there Tony....kinda of Zennish?

BTW the No Mar Classic HD is NOT the base model! There are two cheaper models at least and I think only one higher up than the classic HD and that one is for professionals I recon

What we had here? Was a FAILURE to read the destructions...which you can only find ONLINE cause No Mar FAILED to simply print the block orientation scheme out which is easy once you hear it and notice the labels and watch the video!....even though they charged us up the A$$ for these units! Simply look at the label and put the blocks in the right hole like for 16-19 then use the longest side for 16 the next longest for 17 etc...4 rim sizes four block sizes duhh

If you place the mount bar in the proper location, there is never a need to rotate the tire in the clamps.

Don’t worry about getting some of their lube on the tire bead. Doing so makes the mounting much easier and once that stuff dries, it nearly disappears and your tire will not spin on the rim. If you are really worried about it, once the tire is on the rim, take a damp rag and clean the vegetable lube off of the tire bead and rim before you seat the beads. However, I have changed more than 20 tires now with my NoMar and I lube the bead well and have had zero problems and I don’t bother to wipe off excess lube until I am done and the tire is aired up. When you dismount the tire, you will find that the lube you put on the drop center and one the tire has basically disappeared.

I see you got the device at the right height when you did the front tire, but you are still placing the dismount bar in the tire at the wrong place. Need to watch their videos again as it makes things easier if you follow their process precisely.

The clamps are a good idea, but watch the NoMar video on mounting a Gold Wing rear tire. They show using wood blocks to hold the bead in the drop center and this makes a huge difference. I never found Yellow Thing very helpful, but four 3/4” pine blocks spaced about 6” apart following the mount bar as you slowly work it around the rim make a huge difference. My blocks were cut from a 1x4 pine board and are about 2” wide so basically, using actual dimensions, they are 3/4” x 3-1/2” x 2” and work great.

It is much easier if you mount the machine at the proper height. You have it at least a foot too high. Lower it where it should be and follow the procedure they show in their videos and life will become much better.

OK my brother I appreciate it. That’s what my intention was to do anyway, have a blessed day.