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hifirulezzz
United States
Registrace 18. 01. 2021
Welcome to my channel, where analog sound and vintage equipment restoration come to life! If you treasure the warmth of analog tones and the charm of vintage decks, you're in the right place. Join me on a journey back in time as we revive classic audio gear and relive the days of great music.
Explore the stories behind iconic tape decks and more as we meticulously restore and showcase these vintage treasures. We capture the essence of a bygone era, preserving their authentic character.
Join our vibrant community, connect with fellow enthusiasts, and celebrate analog sound's resurgence in the digital age. Subscribe to my channel and rediscover the joy of analog audio, one vintage deck at a time. Let's dive deep into the world of analog together! #AnalogSound #VintageAudio #AudioRestoration #VintageCassetteDeck #ClassicAudio #AudioEnthusiast #VintageElectronics #AudioNostalgia
Explore the stories behind iconic tape decks and more as we meticulously restore and showcase these vintage treasures. We capture the essence of a bygone era, preserving their authentic character.
Join our vibrant community, connect with fellow enthusiasts, and celebrate analog sound's resurgence in the digital age. Subscribe to my channel and rediscover the joy of analog audio, one vintage deck at a time. Let's dive deep into the world of analog together! #AnalogSound #VintageAudio #AudioRestoration #VintageCassetteDeck #ClassicAudio #AudioEnthusiast #VintageElectronics #AudioNostalgia
Sonic Demonstration: Nakamichi DR-1 vs DR-10 vs Akai GX-93 - Top Condition Showdown
Welcome to the promised sonic demonstration video where I compare three top-condition cassette decks: the upgraded Nakamichi DR-1 with Direct Drive motor and Solid Polymer capacitors, the Nakamichi DR-10, and the Akai GX-93. Witness the top-notch performance of these decks as they play and record music with exceptional quality.
🎶 Sonic Showdown:
Nakamichi DR-1: Featuring a Direct Drive motor and Solid Polymer capacitors, this upgraded deck offers superior sound quality and stability.
Nakamichi DR-10: A classic deck known for its reliability and excellent audio performance, providing a benchmark for comparison.
Akai GX-93: Renowned for its high-fidelity sound and precise recording capabilities, making it a formidable contender in this comparison.
🔧 Performance Metrics:
Wow & Flutter: Experience the stable playback of the Nakamichi DR-1 with an average W&F of 0.035% WRMS.
Recording Capabilities: Discover the high-frequency precision of these decks, with the Nakamichi DR-1 recording flat up to 21 kHz at -20 dB, and with Dolby C, achieving a 0 level up to 17 kHz, gradually dropping to -3 dB at 20 kHz.
🎵 Sound Quality Comparison:
Playback Excellence: Listen to the detailed playback of each deck, highlighting their unique sound signatures and performance strengths.
Recording Accuracy: Compare how each deck records and plays back music, showcasing their ability to handle various tape types and audio dynamics.
👂 Share Your Thoughts:
Join the Discussion: Have you experienced the sound quality of these decks? Share your impressions and preferences in the comments below!
Don't miss this exciting sonic demonstration of the Nakamichi DR-1, DR-10, and Akai GX-93. Like, share, and subscribe for more audio comparisons and vintage audio insights.
🔍 Tags: #NakamichiDR1 #NakamichiDR10 #AkaiGX93 #CassetteDeckComparison #SonicDemonstration #VintageAudio #TopConditionDecks
🎶 Sonic Showdown:
Nakamichi DR-1: Featuring a Direct Drive motor and Solid Polymer capacitors, this upgraded deck offers superior sound quality and stability.
Nakamichi DR-10: A classic deck known for its reliability and excellent audio performance, providing a benchmark for comparison.
Akai GX-93: Renowned for its high-fidelity sound and precise recording capabilities, making it a formidable contender in this comparison.
🔧 Performance Metrics:
Wow & Flutter: Experience the stable playback of the Nakamichi DR-1 with an average W&F of 0.035% WRMS.
Recording Capabilities: Discover the high-frequency precision of these decks, with the Nakamichi DR-1 recording flat up to 21 kHz at -20 dB, and with Dolby C, achieving a 0 level up to 17 kHz, gradually dropping to -3 dB at 20 kHz.
🎵 Sound Quality Comparison:
Playback Excellence: Listen to the detailed playback of each deck, highlighting their unique sound signatures and performance strengths.
Recording Accuracy: Compare how each deck records and plays back music, showcasing their ability to handle various tape types and audio dynamics.
👂 Share Your Thoughts:
Join the Discussion: Have you experienced the sound quality of these decks? Share your impressions and preferences in the comments below!
Don't miss this exciting sonic demonstration of the Nakamichi DR-1, DR-10, and Akai GX-93. Like, share, and subscribe for more audio comparisons and vintage audio insights.
🔍 Tags: #NakamichiDR1 #NakamichiDR10 #AkaiGX93 #CassetteDeckComparison #SonicDemonstration #VintageAudio #TopConditionDecks
zhlédnutí: 933
Video
Nakamichi DR-1 Upgrade Part 2: Perfecting Performance and Sound Quality
zhlédnutí 681Před dnem
Welcome to part 2 of the Nakamichi DR-1 upgrade project. In this episode, I’ve found a solution to make the capstan motor run continuously, eliminating the annoying speed ramp-up during the first 2 seconds of playback. Additionally, I've recapped the deck with solid polymer Nichicon capacitors, resulting in a remarkable improvement in sound quality. Now, you can hear every detail. The measured ...
Nakamichi DR-1 Conversion: Integrating Direct Drive Motor from BX-300 - Part 1
zhlédnutí 833Před dnem
Welcome to part 1 of an exciting new project where I convert the renowned Nakamichi DR-1 deck to utilize the Direct Drive motor from a Nakamichi BX-300. This upgrade aims to significantly improve the Wow & Flutter performance of the DR-1. In this initial episode, I'll walk you through the planning and preparation stages, including ordering a DC-DC converter to supply proper power to the Direct ...
W&F Elimination for Sankyo Transport on Nakamichi DR-10: Achieving Optimal Readings
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 14 dny
Join me in this technical deep dive as I tackle the Wow & Flutter (W&F) issues on a Sankyo transport, using the Nakamichi DR-10 as an example. In this video, we'll explore the steps taken to achieve good W&F readings between 0.035% and 0.06%. Despite these improvements, there's still some flattering on the left capstan that I'm looking to address. I would greatly appreciate your ideas and sugge...
Akai GX-73 Restoration Part 1: Tackling Tape Transport Issues
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 14 dny
Join me for part 1 of the Akai GX-73 restoration series! In today's video, I focus on the tape transport mechanism, ensuring smooth operation up to playback. Despite a few hiccups, we're making progress. However, there's still work to be done: the Direct Drive capstan motor stops unexpectedly, and although the deck produces a signal from the tape on both channels, only one channel reaches the o...
Sound Demo: Restored Tandberg 3012 Integrated Amplifier
zhlédnutí 291Před 14 dny
Experience the impeccable sound quality of the restored Tandberg 3012 Integrated Amplifier in this sound demo video. Following a comprehensive recapping and repair process, this amplifier not only looks great but also performs flawlessly. All controls are fully functional, delivering the perfect sound that this iconic amp is known for. 🎶 Sound Demo Highlights: Flawless Performance: Enjoy the pr...
Tandberg 3012 Integrated Amplifier Full Recap and Restoration
zhlédnutí 645Před 14 dny
Join me in today's video as I work on one of the best amplifiers from the early 80s, the Tandberg 3012 Integrated Amplifier. This powerhouse packs 100W into 8 Ohms in a remarkably slim design. Featuring MOSFET transistors in the output stage, this amplifier boasts an impressive damping factor and efficiency. Watch as I tackle a reported clipping issue and achieve perfect results, along with sol...
Upgraded Sony TC-WR965S Cassette Deck - Exceptional Performance!
zhlédnutí 639Před 21 dnem
Send an email to hifirulezzz@gmail.com with the inquiry. Up for sale is a meticulously upgraded Sony TC-WR965S cassette deck, boasting numerous enhancements to elevate its performance to the level of high-end 3-head decks. This deck offers a range of impressive features, making it a versatile and powerful addition to any audio setup. 🌟 Key Features and Upgrades: Solid Polymer Capacitors: Ensuri...
Pioneer T-838 Restoration: Detailed Tape Transport Reassembly
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 28 dny
Join me for an in-depth restoration of another Pioneer T-838 cassette deck. This deck, which sat idle for years waiting for service, still shows very good parameters. Watch as I meticulously reassemble the tape transport and bring this classic deck back to its former glory. 🔧 Restoration Highlights: Tape Transport Reassembly: Follow along with a detailed video on the tape transport reassembly p...
Tandberg 3006A Sound Demo: Experience the Restored Amplifier's Pure Audio
zhlédnutí 368Před měsícem
Join us for an exhilarating sound demo of the restored Tandberg 3006A amplifier. Connected to moderately powered speakers, this vintage 150 WPC FET power amplifier still manages to deliver clean, clear, and powerful sound. Witness the impressive audio performance that this classic amp brings to life. 🎶 Sound Demo Highlights: Clean and Clear Audio: Experience the Tandberg 3006A's ability to deli...
Tandberg 3006A Tuning: Optimizing a Vintage 150 WPC FET Power Amplifier
zhlédnutí 505Před měsícem
Welcome to the tuning process of the Tandberg 3006A, a vintage 150 WPC on 8 Ohm FET power amplifier. In this episode, watch as I fine-tune the amplifier using a custom-built 4 Ohm load test stand to ensure optimal performance. Follow the detailed tuning process and enjoy the impressive final results. Stay tuned for the upcoming sound check video! 🔧 Tuning Process: Custom 4 Ohm Load Test Stand: ...
Tandberg 3006A Restoration Part 2: Complete Recap and Power Up
zhlédnutí 720Před měsícem
Welcome to part 2 of the Tandberg 3006A restoration series! In this episode, we tackle the complete replacement of all electrolytic and red film capacitors. The big challenge was replacing the massive 15,000 uF 80V capacitors. Now, the amplifier features top-notch Nichicon Fine Gold and Fine Tune capacitors for the power supply, and WIMA capacitors for the film capacitor replacements. 🔧 Restora...
Fixing Akai Tape Loading Issues: Mechanical Repair Guide
zhlédnutí 597Před měsícem
Struggling with your Akai deck not loading tapes automatically? In this detailed guide, I'll explain how to adjust the mechanical components to fix the tape loading issues. Follow along to restore your Akai deck's automatic tape loading feature and enjoy seamless playback. 🔧 Mechanical Adjustment Guide: Diagnosing the Issue: Learn how to identify the root cause of the tape loading problem in yo...
Akai GX-93 Measurements: Near-Perfect Performance
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed měsícem
Akai GX-93 Measurements: Near-Perfect Performance
Akai GX-F91 Restoration Finale: IC Replacement, Final Touches & Ultimate Performance
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed měsícem
Akai GX-F91 Restoration Finale: IC Replacement, Final Touches & Ultimate Performance
Tandberg 3006 Power Amp Restoration Part 1: Capacitors Replacement & Power Switch Fix
zhlédnutí 940Před měsícem
Tandberg 3006 Power Amp Restoration Part 1: Capacitors Replacement & Power Switch Fix
Akai GX-F91 Restoration Part 5: Found a Problematic IC
zhlédnutí 753Před měsícem
Akai GX-F91 Restoration Part 5: Found a Problematic IC
Akai GX-F91 Restoration Part 4: New Challenges
zhlédnutí 591Před měsícem
Akai GX-F91 Restoration Part 4: New Challenges
Akai GX-93 Restoration: Overcoming Challenges for Impeccable Performance
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 2 měsíci
Akai GX-93 Restoration: Overcoming Challenges for Impeccable Performance
Quick Fixes for Sony TC-K690: Tackling Annoying Issues and Noise Problems
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 2 měsíci
Quick Fixes for Sony TC-K690: Tackling Annoying Issues and Noise Problems
The Dragon in Need of a Doctor: Diagnosing and Restoring Nakamichi Dragon Cassette Deck
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 2 měsíci
The Dragon in Need of a Doctor: Diagnosing and Restoring Nakamichi Dragon Cassette Deck
Akai GX-F91 Restoration Part 3: Solving Tape Chew Issues and Indicator Fixes
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 2 měsíci
Akai GX-F91 Restoration Part 3: Solving Tape Chew Issues and Indicator Fixes
Tandberg 3002A Restoration Part 2: High-Frequency Performance Unveiled!
zhlédnutí 316Před 2 měsíci
Tandberg 3002A Restoration Part 2: High-Frequency Performance Unveiled!
Tandberg 3002A Control Amplifier Restoration: Part 1 - Recapping & Deoxidizing
zhlédnutí 545Před 2 měsíci
Tandberg 3002A Control Amplifier Restoration: Part 1 - Recapping & Deoxidizing
Sony DTC-75ES Restoration Finale: Detailed Guide to Gear Installation
zhlédnutí 683Před 2 měsíci
Sony DTC-75ES Restoration Finale: Detailed Guide to Gear Installation
Magtame O-Magcable 2.0: Experience the Future of Charging and Data Transfer
zhlédnutí 213Před 2 měsíci
Magtame O-Magcable 2.0: Experience the Future of Charging and Data Transfer
Pioneer T-838 Restoration: Recapping With Nichicon Muse Series
zhlédnutí 547Před 2 měsíci
Pioneer T-838 Restoration: Recapping With Nichicon Muse Series
Sometimes the squeak comes from the capstain, i use synthetic lubricant on it and it usually goes away.
Many believe polymer just sound bad and have general guidance to use polymer for digital, with other choices, ideally PP/Styrene/PTFE/etc for analogue - I'd add mica in there for small values. Nichicon elect I've always found to be lackluster, and typically look for Vishay elect, now Vishay started to discontinue their audio grade caps, and that is truly a shame, don't really care about the nichicon green discontinuance myself - but at the end of the day, if it's electrolytic, it sounds like crap anyway. Specific to this video, all you did was replace some electrolytics which were bypassed with PP anyway on the output board? That wouldn't bring much.. If it were my CD player, and I intended to use the internal DAC on it, I'd probably focus firstly on the bypass caps used on the output board, do those dipped PP sound good? My experience is 50/50. I'd probably focus more attention to the digital domain which is largely impacted by power.. Have a look at those CM chokes, can you find better? replace the wire from the PSU to the digital board with solid core silver, add your polymer caps to the *digital* board and have a closer look at the signal from the DAC to the output board.
Salve, molto utile questo video ho stesso problema su la mia Teac-v5000 ma non so più dove poter cercare per il motore-reel Sankyo ... indicazioni su dove poter cercare ?? GRAZIE a chi risponde.
Thank you for comparisson. I recently found Aki gxc-715d in mint condition. It is almost serviced. My only concern a bit low frequency on upper range 15.000 Hz on Type II tapes. Time will tell keep it or sell. But deck itself looks beautiful 🙂
what trim level is this
@@user-sf3xg8pt7c EX-L
My lovely singer OZZY!
Very good as usually!
I have a 555 minidisk and it doesn't load the disk, it says errors C13. At the same time, the head runs left to right and the lens of the optics moves, but the optics do not light up. End switches checked, optics replaced but no improvement, disc still won't spin. Spindle rechecked. Could someone help me with this?
Hi,tell me how much nanoweber at 0 db in the sony tc ka 3es,thank you.
@@feodor1465 250
@@hifirulezzz Thank you kind man.
I have one of decks silver. Very difficult to change motor belts, and door drive belt
I guess buttons on decks are like cowbell, need more
Can you provide pcb locations of faults from the gnd oxidation ? I think I may have same issue. Thanks
@@dubdoodle7191 I have shown the exact place where I put a short in a video. All other parts which may get blown can differ from deck to deck. In my case it was 36V circuit and shorted diode.
@@hifirulezzz ok will review video again. Why not put plastic washers on PCB mounting holes ?
Hi @hifirulezzz, I think I have a similar problem with a GX-9 that has been sitting for many years unused. After cleaning and relubing the mech, new belts etc it still seems to have the problem recognising which mode it should be in. I followed the service manual and it appears to be aligned correctly from om cam gear to potentio gear. I never removed from factory position so should all be fine or should I completely disassemble to verify? My real question is did the Deoxit you used do the trick, i.e. free up the pot or did you have to do something else? At the moment I get no response from the deck action buttons although the display seems correct...sometimes the counter indicator flashed at power on though. regards ***Update testing the voltages on VR1 and VR2 and although I can get VR2 to 0.94V, VR1 only reaches 6.6V max (8.08V required). So I think I will double check positioning of the gears again and if okay then I will need to trace the problemon the adjustment board.
@@thetapeshack2595 it is hard to recommend a fix, but follow steps to make sure you have a full range of voltages, power supply works well, etc.
@@hifirulezzz I started tracing back from the motor board to check the correct voltages. But the static (Stop voltages seemed to comeback to SM levels. I realised it was from me pressing on a connector on the Sysco board. Turns out there are many dry solder joints so retouched every connector. The deck now behaves itself in logic but struggles with play, FF and RW. I have already relubed the frozen mech but new idler and service of the cam motor is required. I see on you other videos you spent many hours on Akai decks like this. I’m not impressed with them tbh. Sony much better.
Very cool service video 👍👍
Hello Sir, I'm a big follower of your page. I have Nakamichi DR10 that needs belt replacement and maintenance. Can u help me ?
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR EXPLAINING LX-3 - I LIKE IT BECAUSE SOUND CLEARITY NICE♥♥♥
Hi hifirulezzz. Can I get you to sell me one of the high-end cassette decks that you fine-tuned and recap?
@@michaelclayton9065 sure, please send inquiry to hifirulezzz@gmail com. I am traveling and will be back in a week.
I think akai sounds the best.
For a better stereo experience, place those speakers alongside :)
@@nycdogs this room is too small, no space there
I have the KD D50. I think it's probably a couple years older? Got it at a yard sale for ten bucks years ago. Works great.
хороший альбом. есть такой на виниле.
Great sound
The Akai is gorgeous and for me sounds the best.
Grease your chair lol
@dapbmw I replaced it
Another Amazing Video! I going to try setting my Bias Knob this way, using 400kz and 10k w the T100 software this looks like a easy way to do it?
I believe it is more difficult to disassemble then reassemble a Nakamichi Dragon than an Omega Speedmaster.
All three are great decks. I prefer the looks of the Akai over the Naks. Would be nice to hear them play something with a little more energy and bass.
These are good compositions, and your audio feed has improved. The Akai sounds more CD-like.
DR-10 (sounds fuller and more precise), then a bit apart Akai stands, and DR-1 sounds almost the same to Akai.
DR-10 sounds fuller - I agree, but not more precisely. I can hear more in the vocal range, but it masks above 3 kHz. Someone may like it. DR-1 sounds like a CD. It's super clear and even across the whole range.
Love bass on DR1
One question-when the frequency responce is stated,from-to,is it ment in the recording mode or playback mode,or it is what the deck is capable to record,it is capable to reproduce as well?was never clear to me,thank you!
@ilestojanov6140 on playback deck should correspond to IEC curve, to be compatible with other decks, on playback level should match to be compatible with other decks Dolby system. And the best decks produce linear curve compared to the playback. When I talk about response, sometimes I mean playback response when measuring deck to play using the test tape, and when I record I mean record response. I hope I explained.
One question-when its stated frequency responce,from-to,is it ment in the recording mode or playback mode,or it is what c is capable to record,it is capable to reproduce as well?was never clear to me,thank you!
Left flyweel out of balance?
@lmkan in that case it would be wow, not flutter. I think the left pinch roller can't keep the takeup reel tension in that case.
@@hifirulezzz Depending on what unbalance it can be flutter as well. There's at least 3 types of unbalance that can occur in the flyweel and one of them can cause higher dynanamic resonance in combination with pinch roller bearing clearance heard/measured as flutter.
tops
I love these videos!!!
I had this amazing deck in the eighties. This Harman Kardon was way better then the twice expensive Nakamichi. I bought it for 2,500 dutch guilders and that was at that time very expensive. But i never had regrets. As i said, it was an amazing machine.
Howww❤❤❤ wonderful collection 😊
seems you get problem with take up side, idler or gears (not sure which one is used in DR10) and motor.
Why do you believe so? Takeup is pretty fine. I am already achieved more than with other Sankyo transports I fixed. Just asking if any ideas to improve it further and reduce those jumps.
Fortunately, better quality gears than the original ones are available. The repair is relatively simple and models 55 and 75 will outlive their successors dtc 57, 59, 60 as well as simpler models DTC670, 690, 790. In my opinion, the only models worth attention are DTC77/87/2000 with 4 d.d motors and 4 heads. Of course, other professional models as well, but that's a different category.
Thank you 🙏🏻, where did you order your part from, I’ve got one, I like to replace it’s capacitors, the 15000 if 80volts 50mm by 100mm are hard to find, any infro would be appreciated my friend,
@@paulrominger5200 I have ordered everything on Digikey.
What if the problem is not the capstan or the pinch roller. What if the problem lies with the surface of one of the heads? Or is the problem with the plastic tape guide on the left pinch roller. The last thing I can suggest is the back tension belt behind the faceplate that goes around the supply reel. Perhaps using a cassette with a transparent shell, and use a smart phone that can film in slow motion, film the tape on the right hand side of the cassette. Play back the video and observe the tape to see if there is any physical fluttering. This is a long shot but I do believe the reels are gear drive and not via a rubber idler, could it be a symptom of the gears meshing together that is causing the flutter, and the take up capstan is there to reduce/eliminate the flutter?
Hi. I changed the belts on this Sony of mine during Covid: it worked fine, but in the "pause" position the tape got tangled. Now I would like to repair it: I disassembled the mechanics, it is clean and light, fast mode is all ok, but in play it does not work. It seems that the carriage only reaches halfway and the pinch rollers do not touch the capstans, it gets stuck and does not start. Unfortunately there are not even tension values to check on the diagram, do you have any ideas? Thanks.
@croma61able hi, the heads got pulled up by the large black plastic gear. Check that when you assemble the carriage pin gets in the proper position and when you manually rotate the gear head goes up and back down.
@@hifirulezzz Hi, thanks for the reply. Moving the mechanism by hand it works perfectly: this morning I disassembled it again and the famous pins are aligned. Strange that 2 days ago it worked again, but now, I repeat, maybe it didn't have the strength to move the entire head assembly. 6.8 volts arrive on the engine, in play, but I don't know if this is correct...
Приветствую! Если натяжение подмоточного узла снизить до 25-30 гр/см., то детонация будет ниже! Нет надобности, на современных кассетах, настраивать такое усилие! Это не только сказывается на детонации, но и на повышенном износе двигателя подмотки шестерни, или резинового идлера!✋ При малейшем старении приёмного прижимного ролика, усилие подмотки в 45-50 грам, будет стараться вытянуть ленту из под ролика, а это и есть детонация, плюс коробление ленты, особенно 100-120 минут, с толщиной 9 микрон!
It's absolutely normal, the left pinch roller is not ment to have much grip, the right pinch roller is the main. You ruined your capstans polishing them. The designer did them as they are for some reasons. I don't understand why do you keep change belts instead of testing them before. I have a CR-4 with original belts and pinch rollers that have beter w&f than most of your decks with new belts (<0,035%). All my cassette decks still have their original belts and still performing very well. Stop doing experinents on your decks. My oldest cassette deck is a JVC KD-V6 with original belt, idler and pinch roller (that looks like new). It still performs w&f as new, despite it is 40 years old...
wow, you must have magic belts 😂
Rubber parts are wear parts. They are not designed to last 30, 40+ years. If you want to restore a deck (future-proof!) you should of course replace them (assuming you get a quality replacement).
@@paulmon4077Yes, I do! Do you mind? 🤣
@@MagicMaus29 Well, most of my belts are built to last for >30 years. 😉 All I replaced are idler tyres, back tension belt (where available) and pinch rollers, in some cases. But none of my decks required new capstan belt.
@@paulmon4077 I have a CR-4A with original belt that exceeds (is lower than) original factory W&F. I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it with my own eyes. On the other hand, a classic mech Nak 480's original belt was way out of spec. Best new belts I've found are PRB FRSP's but W&F is generally much higher unfortunately. I have a CR-4 (multivoltage) that needed a new belt (was not original) and I'm lucky to get twice the original W&F specs with PRB. Same with a trio of CR-3A's. Wish I had the original belts for all my Nak's, but unfortunately most of them had "replaced belts" as a selling point.
Hi, in your case it sounds like your pinch roller assembly. Check for trueness of arms, and rollers are perfect flatness and round. The amount of upward force to the capstans. There is a gauge for this, The take up side has more Forse up pressure than the left side. Try applying a little more pressure on the take up roller. Hope this helps you.
@Gordonseries385 I have measured and the force is fine. The left roller has 300 gramm pressure and the right is 500 gramm.
nice one, from my experience the left capstan (if right roller is down) always has hudge flutter on many decks even direct drive like technics or sony. generally it might be the torque clatch on left side which is via another belt and then clutch and i think this design is not great compare to felt and spring as in most of the decks. in all sankyo transport im experience high w&f.
Sorry I mean capstan wheel rubber
I consider this behavior to be absolutely normal. If the right (main pinch roller) is not involved, the takeup-spool alone provides the counter tension. And it is not supposed to put any tension on the tape whatsoever, but only to wind the tape back up (loosely). Without the right pinch roller, the tape is basically pushed over the head instead of being pulled. So it will never be able to run completely smoothly over it. It is therefore to be expected that this leads to WoW&Flutter. The left pinch roller is only responsible for improving the tape tension over the head... not for tape transport in general. However… I had a very similar problem with a deck, in terms of suboptimal WoW & Flutter values. I had also already basically replaced all the parts in the tape path and could only reduce the problem, but not eliminate it. Just like you. Replacing the capstan bearings finally brought success. Apparently they were worn out.
@@MagicMaus29 this is a brand new Nakamichi deck, gift from my very good friend
@@hifirulezzz Then worn bearings are probably not the problem. Another thing you could try is to experiment with the tape tension settings. Sometimes wow and flutter is favored by an unstable azimuth. Dual capstan drives are a blessing if they are optimally adjusted. If not - a curse ;) But you probably know that as well as I do.
I find the Belts that are made today are to tight (small) and to thick, I have stretched them out to improve W&F. I also I test and sand the RT spindle if needed w this test you Should be able to put your finger on the pinch roller rubber and test how strong it is and it should be strong, the Lt spindle pinch roller, I had good luck w even lower /less spring tension. Getting it to go lower is a battle and can take a long time. good luck
Since your problem seems to be on the left side. Have you checked the left idler wheel? I once had a cassette player lose power when it was in the play position. It was left that way for a while before I got to work on it. It ended up putting a small compression mark on the idler wheel. ( because it was left in the play position when it was powered off.) It gave the cassette player high flutter. I replaced the idler wheel and it went away.
I have the same amp in mint condition but not switching on
NOT criticizing anyone in the video, just some general advice: Don't replace the pinch rollers if you don't need to! Modern pinch roller replacements aren't made with the tolerances, consistencies, and quality of the originals and will likely increase w&f compared to an undamaged, still usable original. Pinch rollers aren't like belts where it's under constant stress. If the rubber is still in good condition, just clean and treat with rubber restoration compound and let them settle over 24-48 hours then leave them alone. I'd even argue on certain decks with low tension, high quality belts, if the rubber is still good, treat, leave for a couple of days and continue to use the original until it's absolutely necessary to replace. Not these A& D's though, the belt should be replaced, but the rollers should be totally fine. I have a couple of these (GX-Z6100 & GX-Z7100LTD)
@@summersky77 well, the answer always is - it depends. Rollers sustain up to 500 gramm pressure and this not counts as easy conditions. Let me judge what is better. Thanks
@@hifirulezzz Of course, it depends!! However, the pressure applied to the pinch roller is only when the player is running & the rollers are engaged, as they were designed to do. They don't, however, remain under constant stress and wear out when the unit is just sitting for years in storage. I wasn't criticizing you, was just offering general advice. 90-95% of the time, they don't need to come out right away.