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Sometimes the squeak comes from the capstain, i use synthetic lubricant on it and it usually goes away.

Many believe polymer just sound bad and have general guidance to use polymer for digital, with other choices, ideally PP/Styrene/PTFE/etc for analogue - I'd add mica in there for small values. Nichicon elect I've always found to be lackluster, and typically look for Vishay elect, now Vishay started to discontinue their audio grade caps, and that is truly a shame, don't really care about the nichicon green discontinuance myself - but at the end of the day, if it's electrolytic, it sounds like crap anyway. Specific to this video, all you did was replace some electrolytics which were bypassed with PP anyway on the output board? That wouldn't bring much.. If it were my CD player, and I intended to use the internal DAC on it, I'd probably focus firstly on the bypass caps used on the output board, do those dipped PP sound good? My experience is 50/50. I'd probably focus more attention to the digital domain which is largely impacted by power.. Have a look at those CM chokes, can you find better? replace the wire from the PSU to the digital board with solid core silver, add your polymer caps to the *digital* board and have a closer look at the signal from the DAC to the output board.

Salve, molto utile questo video ho stesso problema su la mia Teac-v5000 ma non so più dove poter cercare per il motore-reel Sankyo ... indicazioni su dove poter cercare ?? GRAZIE a chi risponde.

Thank you for comparisson. I recently found Aki gxc-715d in mint condition. It is almost serviced. My only concern a bit low frequency on upper range 15.000 Hz on Type II tapes. Time will tell keep it or sell. But deck itself looks beautiful 🙂

what trim level is this

My lovely singer OZZY!

Very good as usually!

I have a 555 minidisk and it doesn't load the disk, it says errors C13. At the same time, the head runs left to right and the lens of the optics moves, but the optics do not light up. End switches checked, optics replaced but no improvement, disc still won't spin. Spindle rechecked. Could someone help me with this?

Hi,tell me how much nanoweber at 0 db in the sony tc ka 3es,thank you.

I have one of decks silver. Very difficult to change motor belts, and door drive belt

I guess buttons on decks are like cowbell, need more

Can you provide pcb locations of faults from the gnd oxidation ? I think I may have same issue. Thanks

Hi @hifirulezzz, I think I have a similar problem with a GX-9 that has been sitting for many years unused. After cleaning and relubing the mech, new belts etc it still seems to have the problem recognising which mode it should be in. I followed the service manual and it appears to be aligned correctly from om cam gear to potentio gear. I never removed from factory position so should all be fine or should I completely disassemble to verify? My real question is did the Deoxit you used do the trick, i.e. free up the pot or did you have to do something else? At the moment I get no response from the deck action buttons although the display seems correct...sometimes the counter indicator flashed at power on though. regards ***Update testing the voltages on VR1 and VR2 and although I can get VR2 to 0.94V, VR1 only reaches 6.6V max (8.08V required). So I think I will double check positioning of the gears again and if okay then I will need to trace the problemon the adjustment board.

Very cool service video 👍👍

Hello Sir, I'm a big follower of your page. I have Nakamichi DR10 that needs belt replacement and maintenance. Can u help me ?

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR EXPLAINING LX-3 - I LIKE IT BECAUSE SOUND CLEARITY NICE♥♥♥

Hi hifirulezzz. Can I get you to sell me one of the high-end cassette decks that you fine-tuned and recap?

I think akai sounds the best.

For a better stereo experience, place those speakers alongside :)

I have the KD D50. I think it's probably a couple years older? Got it at a yard sale for ten bucks years ago. Works great.

хороший альбом. есть такой на виниле.

Great sound

The Akai is gorgeous and for me sounds the best.

Grease your chair lol

Another Amazing Video! I going to try setting my Bias Knob this way, using 400kz and 10k w the T100 software this looks like a easy way to do it?

I believe it is more difficult to disassemble then reassemble a Nakamichi Dragon than an Omega Speedmaster.

All three are great decks. I prefer the looks of the Akai over the Naks. Would be nice to hear them play something with a little more energy and bass.

These are good compositions, and your audio feed has improved. The Akai sounds more CD-like.

DR-10 (sounds fuller and more precise), then a bit apart Akai stands, and DR-1 sounds almost the same to Akai.

One question-when the frequency responce is stated,from-to,is it ment in the recording mode or playback mode,or it is what the deck is capable to record,it is capable to reproduce as well?was never clear to me,thank you!

One question-when its stated frequency responce,from-to,is it ment in the recording mode or playback mode,or it is what c is capable to record,it is capable to reproduce as well?was never clear to me,thank you!

Left flyweel out of balance?

tops

I love these videos!!!

I had this amazing deck in the eighties. This Harman Kardon was way better then the twice expensive Nakamichi. I bought it for 2,500 dutch guilders and that was at that time very expensive. But i never had regrets. As i said, it was an amazing machine.

Howww❤❤❤ wonderful collection 😊

seems you get problem with take up side, idler or gears (not sure which one is used in DR10) and motor.

Fortunately, better quality gears than the original ones are available. The repair is relatively simple and models 55 and 75 will outlive their successors dtc 57, 59, 60 as well as simpler models DTC670, 690, 790. In my opinion, the only models worth attention are DTC77/87/2000 with 4 d.d motors and 4 heads. Of course, other professional models as well, but that's a different category.

Thank you 🙏🏻, where did you order your part from, I’ve got one, I like to replace it’s capacitors, the 15000 if 80volts 50mm by 100mm are hard to find, any infro would be appreciated my friend,

What if the problem is not the capstan or the pinch roller. What if the problem lies with the surface of one of the heads? Or is the problem with the plastic tape guide on the left pinch roller. The last thing I can suggest is the back tension belt behind the faceplate that goes around the supply reel. Perhaps using a cassette with a transparent shell, and use a smart phone that can film in slow motion, film the tape on the right hand side of the cassette. Play back the video and observe the tape to see if there is any physical fluttering. This is a long shot but I do believe the reels are gear drive and not via a rubber idler, could it be a symptom of the gears meshing together that is causing the flutter, and the take up capstan is there to reduce/eliminate the flutter?

Hi. I changed the belts on this Sony of mine during Covid: it worked fine, but in the "pause" position the tape got tangled. Now I would like to repair it: I disassembled the mechanics, it is clean and light, fast mode is all ok, but in play it does not work. It seems that the carriage only reaches halfway and the pinch rollers do not touch the capstans, it gets stuck and does not start. Unfortunately there are not even tension values ​​to check on the diagram, do you have any ideas? Thanks.

Приветствую! Если натяжение подмоточного узла снизить до 25-30 гр/см., то детонация будет ниже! Нет надобности, на современных кассетах, настраивать такое усилие! Это не только сказывается на детонации, но и на повышенном износе двигателя подмотки шестерни, или резинового идлера!✋ При малейшем старении приёмного прижимного ролика, усилие подмотки в 45-50 грам, будет стараться вытянуть ленту из под ролика, а это и есть детонация, плюс коробление ленты, особенно 100-120 минут, с толщиной 9 микрон!

It's absolutely normal, the left pinch roller is not ment to have much grip, the right pinch roller is the main. You ruined your capstans polishing them. The designer did them as they are for some reasons. I don't understand why do you keep change belts instead of testing them before. I have a CR-4 with original belts and pinch rollers that have beter w&f than most of your decks with new belts (<0,035%). All my cassette decks still have their original belts and still performing very well. Stop doing experinents on your decks. My oldest cassette deck is a JVC KD-V6 with original belt, idler and pinch roller (that looks like new). It still performs w&f as new, despite it is 40 years old...

Hi, in your case it sounds like your pinch roller assembly. Check for trueness of arms, and rollers are perfect flatness and round. The amount of upward force to the capstans. There is a gauge for this, The take up side has more Forse up pressure than the left side. Try applying a little more pressure on the take up roller. Hope this helps you.

nice one, from my experience the left capstan (if right roller is down) always has hudge flutter on many decks even direct drive like technics or sony. generally it might be the torque clatch on left side which is via another belt and then clutch and i think this design is not great compare to felt and spring as in most of the decks. in all sankyo transport im experience high w&f.

Sorry I mean capstan wheel rubber

I consider this behavior to be absolutely normal. If the right (main pinch roller) is not involved, the takeup-spool alone provides the counter tension. And it is not supposed to put any tension on the tape whatsoever, but only to wind the tape back up (loosely). Without the right pinch roller, the tape is basically pushed over the head instead of being pulled. So it will never be able to run completely smoothly over it. It is therefore to be expected that this leads to WoW&Flutter. The left pinch roller is only responsible for improving the tape tension over the head... not for tape transport in general. However… I had a very similar problem with a deck, in terms of suboptimal WoW & Flutter values. I had also already basically replaced all the parts in the tape path and could only reduce the problem, but not eliminate it. Just like you. Replacing the capstan bearings finally brought success. Apparently they were worn out.

Since your problem seems to be on the left side. Have you checked the left idler wheel? I once had a cassette player lose power when it was in the play position. It was left that way for a while before I got to work on it. It ended up putting a small compression mark on the idler wheel. ( because it was left in the play position when it was powered off.) It gave the cassette player high flutter. I replaced the idler wheel and it went away.

I have the same amp in mint condition but not switching on

NOT criticizing anyone in the video, just some general advice: Don't replace the pinch rollers if you don't need to! Modern pinch roller replacements aren't made with the tolerances, consistencies, and quality of the originals and will likely increase w&f compared to an undamaged, still usable original. Pinch rollers aren't like belts where it's under constant stress. If the rubber is still in good condition, just clean and treat with rubber restoration compound and let them settle over 24-48 hours then leave them alone. I'd even argue on certain decks with low tension, high quality belts, if the rubber is still good, treat, leave for a couple of days and continue to use the original until it's absolutely necessary to replace. Not these A& D's though, the belt should be replaced, but the rollers should be totally fine. I have a couple of these (GX-Z6100 & GX-Z7100LTD)