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I believe it sets the backlash between the live tool drive gears, John. The live tool housing would rotate with the tool plate when crashed, so it isn't like most other live tool turrets where the drive system is mounted to the main body, and then is misaligned after the tool plate gets hit. Thanks for the question!

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith I just saw your other video of the disassembly of the gear and saw the key way on the shaft so i figured my I was wrong. Thanks for replying! I’m trying to figure why live tool spindle on an Okuma losing power. Like it’d slow down if I squeeze on the spindle. I thought there may be a clutch built in.

@@johnngo9690 What model of Okuma do you have? I have been inside most of the Okuma live tool turrets. On most Okuma turrets the tool plate alignment is critical, as the tool plate/live tooling mount becomes mis-aligned to the drive unit.

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith LB4000exII is the model

@@johnngo9690 Hi John. The tool plate alignment is critical on the LB4000 Okuma lathes because the live tool drive uses a shaft with a slot in the center to drive the live tools. The alignment will be good left to right, but up and down will be off if the tool plate is not aligned correctly. This will cause a camming action when the tool drive slot turns to the horizontal position. If you were able to engage the live tool to the drive and spin it by hand you would feel a bind as the slots goes horizontal and then snaps to the vertical position. The live tool will be noisy if this is happening and will get louder as the speed increases. It will also start wearing the flat ends of the live tool drive shafts and the slot in the live tool drive.

I am currently turning down most of my jobs due to health issues, but I did do a tailstock and turret alignment on a Genos L300M last week. The first thing to do is make sure a spindle is straight. To do that you cut a diameter about 8 inches long, then check for taper with a micrometer. They diameters on both ends should be the same. Do that on the main and sub-spindles. If they are both straight you can chuck up a gage pin in the sub-spindle making sure there is zero run-out. Then tram that gage pin using a co-axial indicator in the main spindle. Another test would be to use the same tool and cut the same diameter on a part in both spindles and check the diameters with a micrometer. They will be the same if the spindles are aligned correctly. Those are two different different ways to check the alignment without using test bars. It is always easiest to install a test bar with the same diameter in both spindles and check both with a mag base and indicator mounted on the turret while moving z-axis. This will check spindle straightness and alignment, but you need to make sure the test bars have zero run-out. You can split the run-out in half at the indicating point if there is run-out. There are always two planes that will be straight on a test bar or cylinder square if there is run-out. Email me if you do not understand that and I will call you. It's hard to explain in a message. If I do another alignment I will try to do a video.

Welcome Peter!

😎​@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith

My email is on my about page. Send me an email with OSP-P100 in the subject line. Everything should be backed up on windows. I can send you a procedure to reload everything. Daryl

I can't find your email

I send you my email

@victorsalasgavia6610 There is a tab that says "view email address" that you have to click on. It's under channel details.

​@@OtherBrotherDarylSmithI can't locate it just your instagram

My email is on my "about" page. It says "view email address"

For the collet closer you need one 6mm x 108mm o-ring, four 4.5mm x 61mm o-rings and one 2.5mm x 123mm o-ring. I am guessing that these are for your collet closer as this is what I have extras of.

I have a parts list that I usually order before a turret rebuild. If you run coolant, you will probably need more than just seals. You will probably need new bearings and possibly both halves of the curvic coupler. Email me and I will send you a parts list and the procedure to set the backlash between the worm and ring that drives the turret rotation. Daryl

I will measure the o-rings for the collet closer as well.

Yes, the grinder is a Metabo ST EP 564, but they are hard to find in the US.

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith i can help to collect some if necessary ;)

Thank you, Craig. I love that you help Kimber out as much as you do since I am not close enough.

It sounds like a switch issue, especially if you don't use the tailstock often. There is a Balluff switch block that will have several proximity switches in one block. Try to clean it with electrical contact cleaner and make sure that one of the switches isn't stuck down after the dog pushed it down.

www.balluff.com/en-us/products/areas/A0001/groups/G0113/products/F01302?page=1&perPage=10&availableFirst=true

The above link is what you are looking for. It might even be a broken wire. Best of luck, Daryl

Do you have any electrical drawing for tailstock circuit ?

When I take chuck close valve from solonoid and put it in rapid to speed valve talestock goes backward in feed. And also rapid to speed valve bit 6 is on .

Thanks for your comment Marc!

You need to change that parameter back to your original parameter. Let me know what machine model, serial number, and which parameter. I might have a backup.

Don't run the machine if you changed the first parameter. It could crash if you changed it from metric to inches.

If you have a hard copy of your original parameters, just put it back the way it came from the factory. This is why it is important to have a backup of your machines.

It's probably an Okuma MC-5VA, not an MX 5VA, and one of the best mills Okuma made. The overload will take a while to cool down. Let it set for a while, then find which overload is tripped and try to push the small reset button. If you have an amp meter, check to see how much current the motor is drawing. Also, unhook all 3 power leads to the motor and use a megohmmeter and check the winding insulation of the motor. Also, change your hydraulic oil and filters at least once a year. Most machines of that era still have the original hydraulic oil in the reservoir. Preventive maintenance is so your machine will not be down when you need it most.

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith thanks smith yes it is mc5va , we have pushed it but still problem is there it is from last 3 days . my motor contactor in back side mac unit is not even moving . i have checked all continuity ,even separately check contactor outside,it is fine. showing error 112 always. .in india okuma is very less popular machine so no support is available. we have all the drawings. one blown fuse in cpu card we found and replaced it ,but still problem is there . please help

if you can give us mail then i will drop problem photo to also

@aniveshchaturvedi9886 Where do you see the alarm 112? Is the overload even tripped? There might be something else causing the machine to not come out of E-stop. If you go into manual mode, hit the F8 button labeled "Extend", then hit the F5 button "DIAGNOSIS". What do you see on that screen?

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith sure Smith I will do and share you tomorrow.

Good to hear from you Steve. I hope things are getting better for you. Hang in there buddy.

I think thing are finally turning around. The last few months I tried a different approach to my health problems and believe it is working great. I feel better now than I have in 4-5 years and it is staying that way so far. Lost almost 30lbs as well. @@OtherBrotherDarylSmith

Yes, it takes less than 5 minutes to adjust all 3 of the x-axis gibs. I was intending to show the complete job, but then I knocked my phone over, lol.

That's why it's important to change the hydraulic oil and part of the reason the seals wore out. Thanks for the reply, as always, Charles.

Like that thank you I have a Hardinge cobra 65 I can't move the Z and X axis I'd like someone to help me with this old lathe

What machine model and control? I have worked on lot of Mori Seiki machines. Is this a mill or a lathe? I can send you a procedure. Where are you located?

You shut it off after getting the battery alarm. All the batteries do is store the machine's position when power is off.

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith DMG DMC CNC mill deckel maho i am in london ontario canada thanks

sorry i thought that was a question? i always thought you'd change batteries with the control on that's what i did but the DC0300 alarm messages for Return X and Y wouldn't go away

@@fredrezfield1629 What control? DMG has their own numbers, but I am assuming it's a Fanuc with a DMG number.

Is there a screw on each end or one screw with a lock nut? I like the z-axis gibs snug. My suggestion would be to write down the load percentage for that axis. It's probably going to be single digits. I would adjust the gibs one at a time and make sure that the load increases. I like to see around 10 to 13 percent on the load monitor after the z-axis gib adjustment. To bring up the load monitor on a Fanuc, hit the "Position" hard key, right expansion arrow key, and "monitor" soft key on the right side of the screen.

You never know. Someone might ask you some day, lol. Thanks for the comment.

I have probably been there 10 years ago when I worked for Gosiger. I put a Prex spindle back together that someone else tore apart. It was on a LB4000EX I believe. Do you work for R&B Electronics? I am pretty much slowing down right now since I don't have a good service vehicle after rolling it. It was a total loss. I would be glad to assist your maintenance department over the phone. What problems are you experiencing and what machines?

Yes I am with R&B. We don’t have anything broken at the moment lol. I found your videos because we have a few Harding t42s and there aren’t many people doing videos like yours(keep it going!). We also have an okuma lb3000ex. Maybe that’s the one you worked on. It did have a spindle issue when it was in warranty. Do you know Robbie Keel?

@@AllieRogers-mq1kf Yes, I rebuilt the spindle on the LB3000 you have. Robby was fairly new at Gosiger when I retired back in 2017.

We've got an old Takasawa at work, I think it's a TS series, been a really good machine for the past 30 years or so. Unfortunately, I've never had to deal with adjusting the gibs on it, so I can't provide any specifics. Be aware that not all gibs are screw adjustable, some use shims that have to be ground down or other methods. You have to keep in mind that the ways tend to be a lot more worn close to the spindle/centerline where it spends most of it's time. If you adjust the gibs in the worn area, it will start to bind as you get closer to reference position (assuming that's set with the axis' at their positive end of travel). Depending on the amount of wear you may not be able to get all the slop out of it without binding at the ends. Most controls have some way of monitoring the load on any given axis. When I'm adjusting gibs on clapped-out machines I watch the load monitor and tighten them up as tight as I can go without causing too much load with the machine referenced. You don't want the axis sitting with a 90% load when you home out the machine, you just have to compromise the best you can, or learn how to scrape ways back in!

I like to tighten all of the gibs. It is a feel thing, but if you have a load monitor on the controller, you can use that. Write down the loads in both directions and check it after adjusting the gibs. The reason I don't back the z-axis gibs out a 1/4 turn on this machine is because they are pushing a 2-1/2" x 14" long drill. The x-axis gib, I snug them then back them off a 1/4 turn. To access the load monitor on a Fanuc 16 or newer, hit the position hard key, then the right expansion arrow, and you will see a "monitor" soft key on the left hand side. Okuma states to not exceed 35% load, but I like to see about 10 to 12 percent load after a gib adjustment. X-axis will be different load going up as opposed to going down due to lifting the weight of the turret and no counter-ballance. I like to see 10% going down and 30/40 going up on x-axis.

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith Awesome idea.

The labyrinth has got to be flat with zero run-out. If not, the run-out will be visible on the spindle arbor. There is also a collar that preloads the rear taper roller bearing, so the run-out on that collar is also critical. This magnetic table is the perfect for grinding these, and it is easy to use. Thanks for noticing!

I didn't print it, but yes. It is probably 10 points per square inch.

Yes, that is the way Moore recommends to zero the taper. I got the instructions from Moore. I have repaired a lot of Moore jig grinders when I worked for the Michigan representative for Moore.

ty. The quill method worked well but finding someplace for the mag base to stick was a PITA. I will try that tomorrow to see if i am off any. No one askes me to grind taper anymore. With carbide die taper is just preformed in. I havent been in a die shop for 17 years though.

Sorry to hear that Phil. This happened several days after losing my younger brother due to falling off of a golf cart. I know the meaning of "survivor's guilt".

I spent six and a half hours in the hospital ER getting all kinds of tests and x-rays. They said no internal or brain injuries and now broken bones. They asked why I was there during check in and I just pointed at my wife. 😀 She was pretty insistent that I got checked out.

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith best to check, not all Injuries are obbious. I fell down a flight of steps, they did a full body scan but all i had was a small bruise on my arm, oh and pneumonia the cause of the fall.😉

My tools are a mess. I had them pretty organized in stainless steel tubs, but nothing is in the same box now that they are in my shop. A lot of organizing to do. I went on a call today with minimal tools.

I was able to get out on my own, a struggle but managed. Not a scratch, which is crazy with all of those tools flying around, It was a hard hit for sure. I was on an express way where the speed limit was 70 MPH. I won't say how fast I was going, lol.

Yeah, I was wondering how you managed with a back end full of stuff going every which way!@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith Who cares about the car, are the tools okay?

@@duanedickey7043 The tools that were still in the car are fine. Unfortunately I probably lost some tools when the car flipped. I had the windows half way down. There were tool all around the car in the dirt. I should go back with a metal detector, lol.

I am not sure how I missed this comment. Did you figure it out? Did you email me? I can't remember. Daryl

I,d like your help my Harding cobra 65 is not working if you have WhatsApp on you cellphone I can send you some videos I'll pay you for time. I'm from Asuncion Paraguay

​@@OtherBrotherDarylSmithhello

@@abramfriesen9834 Did you figure it out?

No not get I'm thinking it might have to do with are electricity Paraguay has 380V 3 phase 220V single phase 50Hz @@OtherBrotherDarylSmith

As always, thanks for your comments Fabioth. All of my stones have been ground flat with a diamond wheel, so they will not scratch the surface when stoning. They take down the burrs only. I always tell people to have their own experience, and I only share my experience. This works for me, but I am sure there is always a better way to do things.

@@OtherBrotherDarylSmith its ok.i use a Norton stones,just i see some persons using a stones on circular,but me i never do that because i think is no good do it on a surface.just it