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Thanks so much for the comment -- I've been scolded by the whole comment section for applying the decal. Won't do it again -- but it really was an experiment in applying decals. Nobody noticed that I did the decal with just clear film and a color ink jet printer. Morally, every P bass and telecaster should have the name Fender on it... all the copies, thousands of companies are making money off Leo's designs... without paying a penny. And people complain to me? Great... comments are better for the algorithm than likes ;-) But really glad you enjoyed the video -- I replaced the pickup with Pbass pickups from www.haeussel.com/ -- they really are great.

Tape delay is indeed very tempting, but there is a lot of mechanical engineering involved. Reverb is a great idea too... I don't quite understand the use of that second triode, but it's not in the amplification circuit. Then again, I might want to not want to destroy the tape system. I decent condition, they fetch 300EUR. I'll look inside one of these days, put in the three prong and replace dead capacitors... then let's see how it sounds. Because now, turning it up doesn't sound usable... also quite noisy except at the lower levels at which I demoed it.

​​@@zjokkaThat second triode seems to be so called tape bias oscillator. Very often the output tube EL84 or EL95 etc. is used to act both as bias oscillator (when recording) and audio power output stage ( during playback). But if you have separate playback and recording heads and for example want to monitor audio during recording, you have to have separate bias oscillator tube and audio output tube. And you dont need EL84 high power pentode to make bias oscillator, a double triode is smarter choise anyways.

​@@jutukka I had taken radiomuseum for granted, so much that I was blind for the pentode drawn in the schematic: EF85. EF86 was be way too much gain!

@@zjokka EF86's are prone to be microphonics as well, and NOS EF86's are not cheap nowadays. So lower gain pentode probably better in that perspective too. However, I haven't used EF85's in any amps.

Thanks for sticking around for part 2 -- very curious myself.

I have a Baja Tele -- but always play this Squier because these pickups are SOOOO good...

Try it - a great experience

Thanks for the pointers and comments! I think the distortion channel needs a built-in mid cut. Problems is EQ settings for clean are settings for dirty ... It looks like a Rivera/Dumble kinda design on the outside. What people wanted in the 80's...

If you ask Google, you will get the answer without the magic word your dear mother taught you way back in the 50's...

Hey Jason, thanks so much for the comment. Yes, the reverb, have been thinking about upgrading the tank, but didn't do it (yet) for a number of reasons: 1) it's a red knob, nobody wants it unless very cheap unfortunately, investing in upgrades is a bottomless pit I fear; 2) the whole speaker driver reverb setup really makes the output section unstable unless you keep the reverb trim pot down -- if not it will start oscillating, especially when the drive channel is on. I'm just a hobbyist and try to buy cheap broken amps and less them on without losing too much money... perhaps you agree that is some sense this is the grandaddy of the so important Blues Junior -- Deluxe 65 Red Knob might be a daddy... being pushpull. Here's a question popped into mind while answering your question: does changing the speaker change the nature of the reverb (noticeably)?

@@zjokka No, I've never seen any change in reverb quality just from a speaker swap...I get what you're saying about not wanting to dump too much money into it if it's not going to be a keeper, I'd done that quite a few times myself and it's a bitter pill to swallow

YES, absolutely! xerox machine has a laser printer built in

I'll find another one... I paid mine less than the price of a tube set for my Super Reverb... I think I have some leftover snakeskin tolex....hmmm

Also try it though a 4x12 ...it was my 1st surprise...was loud enough to gig metal and quiet enough for the bedroom

As I say, these were among the first tube amps to come out of the Post-CBS Fender. It was a real struggle for them, because the deal that management struck to buy Fender from CBS did not include the factory in Fullerton, so the Post-CBS Fender was literally left for a couple of years without any manufacturing capacity, and so they basically had to rely on leftover CBS inventory and Japanese imports like the Fender Sidekick line to tide them over until they got their new USA factory setup in Corona, CA.

Hey Benjamin, thanks for commenting. I went into the guitar store to buy an amp in 1989 and I wanted a 2x12 like my guitar teacher, who had a silverface Twin Reverb. I ended up with a Power Chorus solid state amp, not even realizing it was solid state. Red Knob era is when Fender tries to embrace solid state guitar amps. Red knob Twin or Dual Showman are not new designs -- putting a single ended 6L6GC in a combo with a reverb and 12" speaker was as original a design as ever come out under Fender name since CBS took over. You are right: reverb isn't the best, it needs a new tank in the bottom and it certainly benefits from a speaker upgrade. But it's what nowadays everybody wants: single ended, big speaker, compact size... Check out the Fender Frontman I repaired last week -- I cannot believe people just put those amps with the trash... they sound really Fendery and good enough for me... tone is in the fingers my friend. Take care! Johan

I have a peavey backstage 110 and through an ext cab it sounds great, this fender might sound great through a bigger cab too...the cab construction often hamstrings the tone of small amps, especially once you get into the '70s and particleboard becomes more common than fingerjointed wood

Life can be confusing... don't take it too hard!

If you promise to subscribe I'll hook up my 4x10 Super Reverb cabinet, a 12" Electrovoice and a bunch of more speaker to find out where the magic lies ... ;-)

It's done by tube-modulation in half of the 12AX7, using capacitors. Then this modulation is applied to the SCREEN GRIDS of the power tubes. Schematic in this thread: www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=30768

@@zjokka Thank you!

He would have had a "Stack " of 20 of them with Tremelo on full and volume on full for " Shadow knows"!

Thanks so much for that nice comment - really heartwarming. Don't forget to subscribe, it really helps.

Please do...

Thanks for the comment - it really helps. What do you call this - a precision bass invented by Fender! Please unwaddle your panties...

@@zjokka Fender didn't make it

Thanks for the comment - mine sounded absolutely stunning, but that's only because it was reworked by an amptech I used to know. I remember it had little caps on the output transformer (to revoice it?)

Thomann prices vary... please check their website. Mind you the cheapest assembled Pbass can be had for the same price, or that used to be the case at least...

I nomi dei marchi non garantiscono una certa qualità o suono, è importante solo il processo di selezione. C'è un processo di selezione in fabbrica, ma per ogni vecchia valvola ancora funzionante oggi, è stata sottoposta a un test di 50 anni. Le valvole vintage che funzionano ancora oggi sono le MIGLIORI unità prodotte. Tra 50 anni ci saranno ancora tubi J&J ed EHX in giro - e vale la stessa teoria: se funzionano ancora sarebbero i migliori prodotti da quella fabbrica. Ma solo il tempo potrà dirlo... Le valvole New Old Stock sono sempre una scommessa: mai usate, quindi non testate come lo erano le altre.

@@zjokkaNo io non ho detto che la valvola telefunken va' meglio perche' si chiama Telefunken, ma perche' ha delle piccole differenze costruttive rispetto alle philips che la rendono piu' performante da un punto di vista di resa nel suono, se tu prendi una ECH81, UCH 81, UCH42 e guardi come è fatta una telefunken con la sua placca argentata ed una philips che ha la reticella al posto della placca, e questo rende la telefunken superiore del resto le valvole telefunken costavano di piu' delle philips, brimar, fivre, ecc. Ma solo quelle Made in Germany, perche' dopo la Philips compro' Telefunken e Siemens erano tutte uguali anche se con marchi diversi.

Hey thanks for the comment but I don't believe is brand testing tubes anymore... quality is only a result of selection, not brands. Some brands just buy and select...

One for sale on Reverb for 650EUR ;-)

It's long sold, didn't get the chance...

Hi Darren, thanks so much for your interest. Well, the amp is in my garage, I need to re-watch my own video to know where I'm at. I remember it was really hard to tame this beast: once you start messing with the point to point wiring you kinda lose control and it become noisy and wild. They are still VERY interesting little monoblock to build a guitar amp off... I might just take the iron and build something from scratch in a more spacious enclosure that allow better shielding and layout...

Nothing beats Uncle Doug: czcams.com/video/pjKYiSr497w/video.html&pp=ygUcdW5jbGUgZG91ZyBiaWFzaW5nIHB1c2ggcHVsbA%3D%3D

You're absolutely right -- my mistake. Already older video.

Why don't you make a video about your Rolls Royce if it's such a remarkable unit? I just saved this poor thing from the dump and looks are just important if you cannot play...

Thanks so much for that comment -- will check those octal sockets, never noticed that. This is an older video -- check out my newer champ videos: switching out the 5Y3 might work better to lower the B+ Bonnie says "thanks for the cheese'!

Hey Frans, sorry I haven't replied to your other video, was going to say "Just Do It". I saw your first video and knowing your own concerns: you did great, better than most Dutch people. Keep at it. With every video you make, you will get better at speaking English. Yeah, I studied English and Dutch at university, but that doesn't mean anything if you don't keep on practicing and being active in the language, in any way possible: reading, listening, writing. But where can you get practice speaking -- CZcams is ideal. You can (need not) go back and see how you've grown. It's there for everybody to see, it's a beautiful thing. Have to catch up watching your stuff, had a busy weekend, normally don't get out at all... take care, talk soon! Oh shit yeah - yes had to drill the chassis for that can -- TAD shit: only caps bigger than the originals - wtf is up with that. Have a metaphysical hate for all tube related stores... but what are you going to do? I used a christmas tree style stepped drill bit. It's a must if you work on tube chassis.

@@zjokka hi Zjokka, no need to apologise. I'm just glad someone actually watched the video haha. And thanks man! Still weird talking to camera but once I got rolling I didn't mind as much. Really? Where did you study? Leiden? Yeah CZcams is great for keeping up English even in the writing department. Take your time man, not much on there at the moment, haven't posted much in the last few years aside from the sporadic video here and there but feel free to take a look. I know right! Who says "We can help you restore your shit" and have nothing the right size and charge you an arm and a leg for shipping a 1lb cardboard box for fuck sake. Tone factory is better i.m.o. but not much ... they're often out of stock and take ages to send a few turrets that were back ordered. Jukebox revival seems good tho, haven't dealt with them yet but they actually had both the 16+16UF and an 8+8UF I need for Scrappy available on the website and they're located in OudenBosh so no crazy delivery costs. In the good old days there was at least 3 parts stores in every major city, now we have to deal with this shit..

@@zjokka I actually have one of those stepped drill bits but its only up to 2cm's wide, worked fine for making the noval sockets holes in Scrappy's chassis for the EL84 and such and it would even be enough for the Tad cap terminals to pass trough in terms of diameter size. But I can't use it all the way up to the last step on the London City chassis to widen the existing holes because there's pretty tight B+ wiring going on right above those holes and the PCB is right next to them too, ... with the bit protruding that far in the chassis it would certainly rip my wiring to shreds. Come to think of it ... I might however be able to "Micky Mouse" ear the existing holes with that bit to make the terminals fit. I could figure out where I want the terminals to be and drill a tiny hole right in the middle of the old cap's footprint and carefully widen that with the step bit until it connects with the original hole. That way I'd only have to use to first 2 steps of the bit instead of the last, it shouldn't protrude anywhere near my wiring and it would be a shitload faster than using a file. Well shit ... that might actually work! Thanks! Hope you had a good weekend buddy, talk to you later!