Video

facebook.com/vwtransportermodsuk Sorry for the delay

Used the ones from the video still

They’re from Hafele, they generally only sell to trade as they’re meant for kitchens but you can find something similar in other places. Then get some good quality led strips. You don’t want to be replacing those once they’re up

It’s probably not more than that but some guys mounts them by the fuel tank so I don’t think it matters.

​​@@jamespenny94alright thank you ! are all the autoterms mounted as you do? so I can go full trust on your video 😅

@aubryramillon5154 the mounting plate that comes with it can only go in one place so I hope so 🤷‍♂️

I think just eBay, PVC edge piping

If you head over to Part 3 there is a wiring diagram in the description box 😊

Thanks!

It’s in the link in the description

I came up with a load of variations for a sliding mechanism that I could use with Bikes but decided that by the time I’d got all the bits it would have cost as much as the thing I bought. I ended up using the Multiflex brackets from here. steefree.com/products/multiflexboard-for-vw-t5-t6-california-conversions

Done myself. Not a pleasant job. Lots of head scratching and trying to cobble part numbers. Plus you have to remove virtually everything from the underside. Trims are from a California. Bare in mind they are designed for California trim all over so do have bits missing

thanks for the reply - sounds like I have a bit of a job ahead! @@jamespenny94

If you have a 6 then removing the adblue tank is probably the worst bit as you have to lower the fuel take at the same time but can’t remove it because the adblue filler blocks it.

No issues with the unit. My parents have had one in theirs for a few years now without issues. The starter would certainly power it and I think people do use them but you definitely run the risk of it going flat. That being said you can select a shutdown voltage (at least with the comfort controller) which will turn it off when it reaches a certain V the idea being it doesn’t kill your starter. But it’s hard to say when that would happen as it depends if you’re also charging phones overnight etc. if you’re going as far as fitting the heater with all the hoses and cables. Fitting a leisure battery with a DC-DC charger isn’t a huge jump and gives greater piece of mind.

Glad to hear that!

It’s actually only 2/3mm but they go into a void for the pop top frame. The website should give you all the info you need to get it flush. I think it’s only 6mm for the set I used.

@@jamespenny94 thanks for the info - keep up the great videos : )

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@@jamespenny94 thankyou

Great to hear!

I think it’s the anthracite. Just used a piece of card to stop overspray on the window. Just pull the trim off and bang back on when done

@@jamespenny94 sorry to be pain. Did you carpet over the u-trim? Or cut upto the edge of the trim?

It’s where it’s routed with the californias with a webasto heater. Even on a still day the air flow would be enough to disrupt it. Can’t say I’ve ever smelt it in the van. Quite common for a lot of conversions

Because it costs about 3x the price and I was already shelling out on the rest of the van!

@jamespenny94 I am looking to get the webasto heater and renogy lithium battery 170ah but not sure if it will fit under the seat

@marinejunkies9625 not sure I can help you there. I would suggest checking the dimensions against something standard like a 100/120 AGM buttery as they typically fit nicely

@jamespenny94 OK thanks. Have you finished yours yet?

Yes but it’s dependent on where you put it. Use use where you’re going to put everything. Then establish the minimum thickness for current that’ll run through it. Then use an online calculator to make sure it’s thick enough to not voltage drop. Anything in the front should be fine. Anything running the full length to the rear will probably need to be a size up. My main 50A to the rear was 25mm

Didn’t have the tool at the time.

No it comes standard with that model.

Thanks. Got mine booked in Skyline tomorrow but it’s not standard with mine 😭

Full length video on my channel should give you a good look

I didn’t, it’s just the trim that is carpeted

It’s all in the full video 😊

There are! But because I had a panel van there is no airbag cable for seats. If you had a single passenger seat then you would probably have another cable under the seat

I prepared to use the pickup but it wasn’t there. It’s possible mine used an earlier model sender

@@jamespenny94 Thanks for the reply, did you discover your sender unit didnt have the pickup before you cut the nipple off or after? If after and it want there, how did you seal the sender unit again? Sorry for all the questions but Im just about to start my install and its the one thing im concerned about. TIA

There was no nipple at all or a pickup. It’s probably safe to say that if there’s a nipple there’s a functioning pickup. I suspect that if you have perhaps a caravelle or maybe a Kombi then it’ll have one as some of those models come with heaters for passengers.

@@jamespenny94 thanks, that makes sense. I do know someone who had a panel van with the nipple and pick up on. Who knows how VW work :/

Thank you! Cheers!

A golf GTD but that’s about as much as I can say

Good question, I think I tried to explain in the video. The adapter on the passenger extends past the inner edge meaning it would clash with the side lever on RIB ones. Of all the reviews I thought the rusty Lee has a larger circular interface so should be more stable.

Skyline

Dry fit yes but the caps have to go on after the curtains have been put in.

The curtain runners should go in slot and twist job done

Genuine California ones

The sound deadening removes the high frequency vibrations that come from the panels. The foam in the insulation wouldn’t do as good a job on that.

@@jamespenny94 Thanks for the quick reply. Didn't think of it that way, sounds plausible indeed! Going to buy some sound deadening 😜

Only by adhesive onto the mat. If you cut it right and fix everything on top then it’s not going anywhere!

Hi Toni, Step by step in what way? I tried to break it down as best i could. It might be a little late now that it's all fitted also.

Right on!

Glad you liked it!

The MOSFET was just from eBay and the lights are the Loox LED’s from Hafele

Cheers!

Thanks! It’s the vitrifigo TL43. There is probably 2” of dead space below it. Not much you can do with it as that’s also vent space for the compressor unit.

Thanks, the units are Charcoal black and suede grey. The bed is a California one not a rib 😊

@@jamespenny94 👍

@@jamespenny94 thank you for the info.

Hi Haris, I would go with 10m to be safe

Honestly, a PITA. The adblue tank made it a pretty grim job and I was fortunate to have a lift. Basically it won’t come down without disconnecting the adblue filler first. I was dropping the whole thing to do the rails but I suspect if you were able to just lower the back end enough to unclip and get the cap off then it should be alright. Just take your time.

@@jamespenny94 Cheers. I thought you might say that. Hopefully I can just drop the back and leave the adblue pipes in place...

I should think that would be ok. Make sure you run it down to as low as you can go. I had about 80 mile range and it was still a lot of diesel slushing about so really run it low to make it easier. You’ll need to free the fillers at the door to give yourself some freedom of movement definitely though. I would probably try and find something to support the front portion and lower the rear with the Jack. Good luck

Not the stereo no, to my knowledge it had to be done via the OBD