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I just searched is there anyway to patch the manifold for a GEN one Toyota Sequoia, and your video came up. Your content was exactly perfect for my situation! I hope yours is still truckin’ ride along brother! I paid $3800 for mine and it was garage super clean interior and rides like it’s brand new! I’m dealing with the idler pulley, which may have caused my throttle body to spew some coolant. I figured I’d take care of all the issues at once. I heard the ball joints go bad so I’m gonna go ahead and replace those they don’t seem to be an issue. Thanks again!

Thank you very much 🙏

Thanks Brig T! I have/had a an issue where I chug up hills and stall out. I have/had issues when I come off the highway to stop and go traffic and also stall out as if It's run out of fuel. My 460 is in a motorhome and I had also changed out the ICM (ignition control module) this helped but didn't fix the stalling issue. I replaced the Ignition Relay, MAP Sensor and Fuel Pressure Regulator as you did. Hallelujah! I think this solved my stalling out issue

Awesome 😎

Thanks

Do you recall where the vacuum lines run to from the map sensor?

I bought a 6L a few years ago… for beach fishing, towing the boat, etc. I got a great deal and expected to spend some $$$. But this past year, I got tired of draining $$$ and decided I’m gonna do this stuff myself. The learning process has been awesome. You really can find EVERYTHING between CZcams and the forums. I’m sure I take a lot more time to fix it, but I’m learning with every project/issue… There are things I’m certain I’ll still need help on, but I’m a much more educated owner now.

rich guy playing with his toy

Thank you so much my friend I'm having the same problem with my Motor Home same engine it'll run perfectly on park even if I accelerate the engine but put it in drive and no power again thanks I'm trying this.

Thanks

Hi , this happened to me today , the outer came free leaving the electrode part stuck in there , spent a couple of hours with penetrating fluid and various ways and gave up and went to CZcams , saw your video and 5 mins later it was out , awesome, thank you for taking the time to do the video 👍

thank you for this!

Nice idea!

Great video!

The problem is, people perform a repair, like yourself, and decide they will be a technician for a living, and that’s when the rubber meats the road. Not saying anything negative towards you, I commend you for solving the problem, and for all that you’ve accomplished.

I like both your videos both of them made sense and they were logical put it on a fuel pressure check to determine whether it was a regulator or not about the map sensor is tied into the fuel system if it is glitching out it can actually momentarily shut down the fuel pump momentarily because it's linked through that through the processor

I know exactly what you're talking about with respect to the retract detent not kicking out 100 percent. As of right now, mine does it too. It's frustrating. The detent pressure seems to be appropriate, so the only way i can see to possibly fix it is to lessen the detent pressure lower than you really want it so the the 'inertia' of the level breaking out of the detent carries the lever ALL the way forward. The other thing that crossed my mind is to remove the spool and refine and re shape the actually deformation in the spool shaft that is being caught by the ball bearing detent. Great video, nice job making it your own.

Unusual for this motor. Multiple examples with million miles

Thanks for the help .. ❤️❤️

I wish you started the video of what your truck was doing and sounds to see if your truck makes same problems as mine.

Thanks mine e150 has the same problem i will try the fuel pressure first ....because i already changed iac , maf and the fuel pump...

Did my filters today I have had my 60 for 3 months doing what I can but day by day

Good for you 👍

How much play should there be in the axle before removing the clip?

04’ king Ranch 6.0 w/ 173k Thanks for taking the time to share your story. Pretty much exactly what happened to me Buy truck 8k Drop $6k getting seals and all sorts of work done 1 year later I’m dealing with the issue mentioned in video. Going to do the work myself thanks to this video. “No one knows your vehicle like yourself” 👍🏼

GOD Bless you

excellent! just picked up an 05 today from a dealer who gave up and dropped price by almost to a 3rd to get rid of it. Oil is clean ish (no metal), firing on all injectors but missing and throwing codes lol - will be tearing into all these issues you mentioned thanks SO much!

You are the first person to talk about the flimsy side walls of the trailer. And how to fix that problem. Thank you!

Do you have the name of Diesel mechanic in Massachusetts? Im in Mass and im looking for a good Diesel Tech i can trust here close to me. Thank you

Why do they design it so stupid to remove? I'm going to swap the bolts.

Thank you for the video it really helped

Great video

I understand the “stealership” angle, but just know that doing your own due diligence, making sure everything is in its place, and that all the components look right (!?!) (8:57) is not always going to be enough. Believe it or not, the oem scan tool is a godsend when it comes to diagnosing. Aftermarket scan tools don’t show all live data and can lag, throwing off the diagnostic procedure.

I have a 1988 Ford with 460 engine when engine heats up it cranks slow after engine cools back down it cranks fine and ideal why

I have a 1988 Ford truck with the same engine I'm having trouble with it starting when engine is heated up it cranks like the battery is dead after engine cools down it cranks fine and starts right up any ideas what could be wrong

Great informative video. Thank you.

Can’t tell you how many times I’ve referenced this video. He reminds me of a stellar man that I learned Construction from. He even uses a lot of the same terminology. Thank you for the simple, straightforward explanation and well thought out design.

Do you bleed the modulator first or last

It’s so beautiful where you are . #BLESSED

Thank you huge help

mine is 3 years old been thru 3 sets of valves rugged made warranty is great people are great at getting parts out just wish i didnt need them . has leaked hyd oil since day one log craddle you took off has been bent clear back to craddle engine has been great log lift gets bent up needs a angle iron welded on next to beam to avoid this hyd oil filter housing was replaced but still has filter vibrate. loose love the speed and power needs engineered better beam log lift and craddle need to be same height so moving peices back to be resplit is easier tounge weight can be adjusted by moving the tire forward your modes are great for the money not a bad machine but could be better just ordered a vertical with elevater from wolfe ridge cant wait to get it and speed up my production

Do you recommend going with all ford parts? My 1994 F350 4x4 dually is doing the same thing. I replaced the MAP sensor and pressure regulator with Oreilly parts and ran good for 400 miles and started again.

Thank you so much Sir

Ebp sensor got done away with after late 03 up they flashed the computer to where it’s determined by other sensors

this sadly did not help me

Having these issues as I speak. Repair shop charged me 2700 dollars to fix my truck. Truck sat for a year cause of an injury I had and just went to take for drive. And brake pedal was really hard to push but pedal would not come back up. Took to shop again and 642.00 later they said it was the mechanical pump. Replaced that came home woke up today and now pedal goes to floor and slowly comes up. I am flat pissed off at my ford. I do I trouble shoot my issues alone. Have no one near by to help with bleeding of the brakes.

All right I'm going to

My 1990 F250 5.0 has had surging idle and has bugged me. The interwebs have told me its most likely the MAP sensor and will be replacing soon in hopes to resolving the issue. Great clear video, thank you!

So what was missing on the plug he replaced?

M anifol A bsolute Pressure sensor..