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Sorry for the delay in responding. You can email the picture to me at sean@backflow-supply.com and confirm the model and size and the issue and I will get back to you.

Eddie, this would be something you would want to contact your sewer department. Depending on the age of your system it may be geo tagged. Some people see them sticking up above the ground a little bit. Sometimes even asking neighbors where theirs are can give you an indication where to look. To my knowledge they are all going to be accessible from outdoors.

I don't think I ever did that video. I would have to search the videos.

I am guessing when you activate zone 1 and the PVB leaks, it means it is dumping all the water that would be going to the zone. Is that correct? Does this do it on any other zone? It sounds like you are losing too much pressure after the PVB. Either there are too many heads on the zone or there is a break between the valve and the heads. For some reason too much water going out and not enough pressure to sustain the float of the PVB to keep it sealed. Call me if you need to and we can talk. Sean, 801-355-6736

No. It is not normal. Make sure the screw slot is turned straight across the valve. Every quarter turn is open /close. If it is then it might be time to change the test cock or you can go buy a 1/4" brass plug, teflon it and put in if it is a female ended test cock. If it has a male end then buy a cap. Or you can replace the test cock. I am guessing your assembly is a 1" or smaller line size so that means you need a 1/8" male fitting (that goes into the body of the assembly) by a 1/4" female, or by a new one. Here is the link to the test cocks on our site. backflow-supply.com/search?q=test+cocks&options%5Bprefix%5D=last

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 I thought I had it stopped but now it's not just dripping but more like spraying out where the plastic plug fits. I tried to teflon tape the plug until I can order something but that didn't work either. How do I know which size plug to order and does it need to be lead free? Thank you!

@@robertkoellisch470 Is the screw slot going in the direction of the flow or across the test cock. It should be going across the test cock. If you need a plug in it for now and it is a female test cock you need a 1/4" male plug. If it is a male flare fitting you need a 1/4" flare fitting (cap)with an o-ring on it to stop it.

I wonder if you have a different model. Both of these are the Wilkins 720A. I wonder if you have the Wattts 800M4 PVB? czcams.com/video/sqYsxJJk8m4/video.html Watch this and see if it helps. You are welcome to send me pictures to sean@backflow-supply.com or call at 801-355-6736

I am not sure which size you have. 1" is most common, but here is a link to the parts for the 3/4" backflow-supply.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.watts_models=800M4&filter.p.m.custom.sizes=3%2F4%22 and the 1" backflow-supply.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.watts_models=800M4&filter.p.m.custom.sizes=3%2F4%22 just depends on if you want just that part or a complete kit. Call me if you have questions Sean 801-355-6736

I am not sure I am following your question. You had the assembly tested and it failed? That is a possibility. The air inlet could have opened below the required 1.0 or the check valve in the bottom could have leaked or not held at 1.0 or above. This would require perhaps a simple cleaning or rubber parts or complete parts. Hard to determine without seeing the components and knowing what the issue was in the first place. You are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 and ask for Sean or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Yes I had the pressure tested and it failed. Otherwise, its functioning fine zero issues.

@@shanew7361 Maybe I need to clarify. Did someone come out to do a specific backflow test, using a gauge and they hooked a hose up to it? Did they leave a copy of the report?

@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Correct, and no report was given. I'm having a different plumbing company retest it.

@@shanew7361 Make sure you ask them to explain why and how it failed so you know what you need to fix it.

You can email it to me at sean@backflow-supply.com

it is not uncommon for a new install to leak. There could have been debris, such as rocks, sand or rust in your pipes that when turned on got stuck in the #1 check. I am assuming this is on a lawn sprinkler system. If so turn a zone on that will get more flow going through the heads than what is coming out of the relief valve. If it stops leaking out of the relief valve when the zones are running the problem is in the #1 check assembly. If it doesn't it is in the relief valve. Almost always it is in the #1 check assembly. If you determine it is in the #1 check take it apart and look for rocks, rust, even teflon tape or pipe dope. Clean it out, flush the line for a minute or so with the part out and the cover off then reassemble and try again. If you still need assistance you are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736.

Maybe you have resolved this already. But the first thing to do is to get a flow going through the backflow assembly greater than what is coming out the relief valve. I am assuming this is going to a lawn sprinkler system. Even though it is dumping water turn a zone on that will get the required flow of water and observe if it stops dumping. If it does you know there is an issue in the first check valve. If it doesn't it is an issue with the relief valve. It is not uncommon on a new install for debris in the line, rocks, rust or other debris gets flushed into the first check. Take it apart and see if that is your issue, inspect the rubber and the seat to make sure they didn't get damaged and put it back together and turn it on again. Hopefully it doesn't dump again. But sometimes it will and it could still be more debris in the line. I have seen a few issues with the relief valve in the last year in brand new units. So far I have not been able to determine the cause but have provided those that brought the unit from me with a new relief valve and it has solved the issue. This is rare. You are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 if needed. Ask for Sean.

Thank you very much.

If you are referring to the two assemblies in front of me in the video, the old one is a 1" and the new one (the left) is 3/4". But the bodies are the same for 1/2", 3/4" and 1". You will be able to find the size raised in the brass on each of the ball valves. It will be marked as a 3/4" or 1" most likely.

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Thank you, I will take a 2nd look.

The leak out of the hole on the RV cover is one of three reasons or a combination. When you take that cover off the nipple end of the RV assembly may still be stuck in it. The part that fits into the cover has a plastic piece with an o-ring on it. Either the plastic could be cracked or broken or the o-ring is damaged. Lastly, it could be the cover plate inside where the o-ring seals is corroded or pitted. If the corrosion can be cleaned out and it has not pitted the brass you may be good or you may need a new o-ring. But regardless it is one of those reasons or a combination of them. Call me if you need to 801-355-6736

IF you are referring to winterizing, I guess it would depend on your system. For example, I have a stop and waste and it should all run out of that. If your valve is in your home there should be a way to drain it as well.

You are welcome. Just know flipping the disc won't last as long as before you flipped it as it is hitting in the same spot as the side you just flipped. It now doesn't have any support or strength on the other side. It is intended to be a temporary fix.

I understand your concern. However, they are going to do it anyway and in many places codes allow them to do it. These videos are also not just for them but those that are licensed to do it. Many of them do not understand how to do it either and know very little about installation requirements for them.

Union plumber much?

The washer shouldn't be concaved. It should be flat. But one side should extend a fraction wider than the other side. The side that should go against the washer is the longer side. And the edge of this side feels a little more sharp. The other side that is away from the rubber disc is more rounded. I have found out since that according to Wilkins it doesn't matter, but I have had an experienced technician of several decades tell me it does matter. I think over time the washer might not be as easy to distinguish the edges as I think they wear away. You should be able to tell by the staining on the washer from the water what side was not against the rubber disc. Not sure if this helped, but I really think putting it on will not be noticeable.

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Thank you for the prompt reply! 🙂

Take a hammer and gently tap around the outside of the housing at the top where the threads of the bonnet go down into the body. See if that will help loosen it up. if you are not using a long bar of some sort to put in between the three "legs" that the screws go into that the canopy attaches to I am not sure how else to get it out.

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 It works!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

@@qing7 Glad it worked, but what worked specifically? The tapping with the hammer, the long bar to turn it with or both?

What did I forget about the #2 SOV??

Opening the #4 test cock or if necessary opening a valve down stream that gets a greater flow through the assembly than what is coming out of the relief valve is a means of trouble shooting if the issue is the #1 check or the relief valve. It in effect allows the relief valve to fully close if it is a number one check issue. But if it is a relief valve issue it doesn't matter if water is flowing or not and you will know where to focus your efforts in your repair or cleaning.

if it is a sewer pipe up to 4" it will work

Did you come in today and get parts for this?

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 no i m in Franklin TN

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 i was able to stop gushing out of Relief valve but not able to completely stop leaking. now its still leaking even after changing all the parts.

i do not know what you mean by you need to replace a 3/4" bleeder in your system. When you say system are you referring to just the backflow assembly? Do you have the Wilkins 975XL or 975XL2 model? When you say bleeder are you referring to the test cock, the valve with the screw driver slot in it? Is it the one on the inlet ball valve? The inlet is supposed to have a test cock on it. So if you want to replace the test cock only you can. If you have to replace the ball valve with the test cock in it you can get that ball valve, but most models just come tapped and threaded and you can usually just take the old test cock out and reuse it. If you need to replace the ball valve on the outlet side of the assembly it doesn't have a test cock. If you need to send me pictures you can email me at sean@backflow-supply.com or call at 801-355-6736 on Monday. I will be out in the morning, but will respond to your email or call as soon as I can. Sean

Thanks for the feedback.

Sorry for the delay in responding. I can only assume that the tester is indicating that there is an issue with the test cocks. Have you tried taking a screwdriver out and turning the screw to see if they turn or not? Every quarter turn is open close. It does not tighten. Just open and closes a small ball inside. Please check that and get back to me. It might be best to email me at sean@backflow-supply.com or call me at 801-355-6736. I check these comments on CZcams about once a day.

it depends on the jurisdiction. It is only recommended it is calibrated annually. But some jurisdictions see the date as a hard date. You would need to see what they would allow.

If you are referring to that tool used at 2:22 in the video, yes you can buy those to shut off the ball valves on backflow assemblies. There are three different sizes. Part numbers WV100, WV101, WV106. backflow-supply.com/collections/backflow-test-kit-accessories

There are different sizes. part numbers WV100, WV101, WV106 backflow-supply.com/collections/backflow-test-kit-accessories