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I am very uncomfortable having the only thing keeping it from leaking like a river is some silicone, that stuff doesn't hold up to UV very well at all (especially white) and you will be resealing it pretty much every year or every other year. If I were you I would add a silicone collar over the metal one and put some wood underneath the roof to run the screws into so they have something more than just thin metal to bite into.

Grinder pretty much the same as WHIZBANG'S plans. WORKS GREAT!

Do you know where I could find a replacement handle for a flea market salvage?

THANK YOU! 👍🏼 I ended up cutting a wider flap with a Dremel, wrapping around towards the Seat Belt Bolt and removing the Bolt. The Rear Nut is the difficult one.

I know this video is 5 years old but, do you know what the part number of the t-stat was and where you got it from? Mine needs one but I can't find one.

My dad a got a coleman the atv youth one too.

I bought some 30 dollar pliers and I still haven't managed to get the child out!

Shawn thanks for the video. However my problem does not appear to be a hose leak. It seems to be coming from the fitting to the housing. It is difficult to access. Can this fitting to the housing…:right angle fitting to hydraulic hose be replaced. Have IH 464 which looks very similar to what you demonstrated.

One important thing you're not doing is servicing the slider pins, if they're seized, you'll wear a set of pads out in no time!

Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work

only difference between the Grizzly and HF mini mills, spindle, all parts interchange.

Thanks for sharing this video, can you share the led part number?

Great minds think alike. This is exactly what I was going to do to mine. You just need 1.5-2" flap and use a ratcheting wrench to get the nuts off.

I believe I would have replaced that rotor. Looks like the first one Ford ever made.

I just did this last Friday on mine luckily for me i didnt have the 3rd row so i used the panels and it worked great! I did have to cut and replace one of the lower boldts out because it just kept spinning in place but other than that success.

God damn man just get to the point Jesus Christ . What’s with all the technical crap

i still dont understand why everyone replaces the entire hub the bearings are cake to pull out and pop in a new one. its such a waste.

Good job. I do 95% of my own work. What I have to do is change the control arms some call it. My tires are bald on the inside outer edge thread. Good video.

Thanks, mine was a clogged jet, that little Barrel shaped parks that you need a thin flat head screwdriver to remove.. I used your wire method and put everything back together and it worked perfect

You should be using Metric on everything except the 13/16 lug nuts lol

its a T-15 and he is correct about needing a really long driver to make it work

I have a 2011 and it does not have this under the dash near the steering column.. you should change the title of the video, because every year after 2009 has a BCM and the relays are located elsewhere.

I am pretty sure this model and lennox HCWB3-17A that I have are identical -- maybe same manufacturer but branded differently.

Forgot to grease the lock pins on the mounting bracket. That's what the grease is for.

Why did you buy 3 125cc ATVs while you could of bought a 169cc version of the Coleman but called the AT200

Yeeessss!!!

It is 1-6-23 at 1pm PST. Is the silicone all that is protecting your penetration from leaking. It is backward from a traditional roof flashing technique (coming from the underside of the roof, instead of the too of the roof). Thanks, AM.

That is such a terrible way to flash that. Next time use a flexible high heat rubber boot that forms around the roof ribs.

My Sealight S1's arrived. It came with a bunch of extra o-rings. I guess if they're loose you can put thicker o-rings on. Did you use any of them, or did you just use the ones that are already on? Thanks.

I too want to install LED bulbs on my 2007 Express. I have the same headlight assemblies. I didn't think LED's would fit though, because the stock low beam bulbs butt right up against a plastic panel. With the added size of heat sink, did you have any issues fitting them in?

It would be better if you went with the belt upgrade

Found it, thanks

Hi, great video and very usefull, do you recall the brand of led bulbs you purchase? Thanks

I have the exact same rv with the led upgrade and needed a quality video like this to do the adjustment. Thank you so much!!!

Best? LOL.

Why didn't you take the plastic cover off? It would have been easier. It just pops off and snaps back into place. That's way too much antifreeze!

Awesome job, thank you!

Please provide info on 12 v timers and lights from a car parts source…? Are they bright enough?

Why wouldn’t you move your stove a little bit to avoid having to cut away part of the purlin

Thank you video was perfect doing my 250 this up coming weekend

Shawn - I watched this the other day. I have struggled for two months as to how to deal with this. After watching your video, I had it done (2 lines) in about an hour. It was easy work that I never would have figured out on my own. Thank you!!!

Thank you. This is exactly what I'm going to do on my 2010 and cover the panel with black gorilla tape when done.

I have a 454 with the same steering and it is a nightmare I can’t understand why they designed it that way and I was told to run one to two gallons over full on the hydraulic oil

This is the way. Would hate to go through the long way, only to find out one of the struts is faulty and you need to redo it all over again lol

Well you don't need a 14mm wrench or a wrench. You do need a 13mm socket and ratchet for the caliper bolts, no wrench needed, 9mm or 3/4" lugnut 4 way tiretool needed. Watch how you put the caliper back on as you can twist the brake line

Thanks for the video. I already had the unit installed but they only install the humidifier in manual mode. So I bought the transformer and sensor I needed but I don’t know how to tie the transformer into the switch for the furnace. Could you explain how you did that?

Very well explained

I grew up with one of these (since it was new in 1983) The plunger on the side is a primer. you pull it out and let it go back in itself(NEVER PUSH) until it stays out. When these things get grumpy to start, look at THE AIR FILTER These things are like 40 years old. If you have the original air filter, it is probably not cleaning out properly anymore. A lot of people don;t even think to clean the filters up. The carbs are ultra simple and almost never fail unless you are trying to restore a junkyard quad that sat outside in the weather for the last 10 years. Suzuki's quality(and Honda) in the 80's was top shelf, no corners cut. Keep ethanol gas out of them, keep them inside if you can, get it started once a month and it will run.

Great video on rebuilding the carb....however, the engine will not crank unless you have a water hose connected to the pump. Ir's a safety factor to avoid ruining a pump by running it without water. Don't try all the other things you were going to do....just connect a water hose to the pump inlet and turn on the water....if your carb repair was sucessful it will fire right up.

Just wanna say thanks for the vid lol... I was doing a totally unrelated job on my journey and forgot how the harness was routed on the fuel neck, Thanks for the Money shot I needed lol