Video

This is cool. I’ve always liked the 305.

If you drain the radiator there really should not be an issue with coolant leaking.

Do the bulbs come out

Turn the fan away, seen that it had blown the gases away a few times, when you end a tack/weld and it sparkles, thats when you know you have porosity in it, other than that awesome work. Keep it up and have fun with it.

Im so glad you showed the 2wd nature of having a front ratchet. I was worried that ANY inequality of torque on the wheel side would activate it. Glad to see that in 2wd the steering is still 'normal'

What year is your truck?

So, David? There are two primary oddities about an SBC- one is that they will run no matter where you put number one on the cap as long as the wires are in the correct order. & 2:- for some reason they always run best when you have #1 in the factory location. This is when the rotor button & it's conductor literally point towards cyl. #1 on T.D.C on the compression stroke. And, as you route the plug wires, make sure that #5 & #7 do NOT touch or overlap. I have ended up using the second shortest wire of a set for nearly a straight run directly to #5 from it's tower on the cap & whichever one is long enough to go CW, around the back of the dist, over to #7. Reason being I cannot tell you how many times I have seen no-spark-no-start SBC's that have/had wires #5 & #7 either intertwined, crossing one-another, or ran alongside of one another looking like an N gauge railroad track. "Every" one of them needed an ignition module, w/out exception. I won't even run them in a wire loom next to one another. We didn't ever encounter this peculiar oddity until '74 when Chevy began using HEI ign. systems. My guess would be their proximities to each other aren't overly conducive to allowing a sufficient dwell angle within degrees of rotation of the rotor button between two successive discharge incidents of the coil secondary windings. And, that wheeze-oh-five exhaust manifold on the passenger side must go. Shop around & find you a set of long-tube Hooker headers or just replace it with a 350 manifold if you plan on keeping it then use those dead-soft aluminum gaskets (maybe ebay?) for both the flanges and the collectors as they do not come loose once properly tightened

fact you made the effort and results speak its process its progress its start

One important part you forgot is that bc it's a Chevy, it will run decently if the thing cranks evenly on each cylinder. If you ran it before you parked it with the distributor that far retarded that is absolutely why it seemed worn out to you. The engine actually sounds "very" healthy to me; at least given the dist is so retarded it barely runs. When you turn the distributor CCW, stop moving it when the coil cover is square with the firewall or like even with the back of the engine and see how it runs then.

I went thru the same crap with my 2 jet Rochester carburetor. That hidden hole tip under the gasket sure helped me figure out problem.

Very informative 👍

Very entertaining. I was searching for whether you could use an electric motor to spin the turbine in the turbo but I saw your video and decided to stick through the whole thing. Had to drop a sub but could you explain why an electric motor wouldn’t work?

great pull by the recommended, i like your attidude, i have no experience but im tryna learn

I have this tranny only goes in 1st n 2nd gear no 3 -4 truck running or not!!!!...

looks great

Firstly in MY experinces over the last 40 years VHT is Piss Poor product. Doing little of what it claims.. period. Beyond that : I Suggest using Regular Paints (not any claiming 'Hi Heat') Simply because Engines don't normally exceed temps that normal paints can tolerate . Consequently normal temp paints are... Very Effective... indicators that you have Seriously overheated the engine. As in Idiot Proof evidence . Masking that instant read evidence potential with a more heat tolerant paint is NOT a good thing IMO.

Well overlapin' fine & stiff,,, in case of keyhole it'll stick& tack underneat,,,,

Practice makes perfect, well that's it,,,, at 65 still tweekin' bolts,,, oxy acethls,,, stick weld 2.5/1.2mm,,, gasless,,, & JBWeld,,, difficult is stainless steel!!!...

Awesome job, thank you.

I have coolant in my 3rd spark plug port. No other issues. Could it be the intake manifold gasket? Or do i need to pull the heads? I didn't run it hot. 95 gmc. 350.

Unfortunately you have to paint a iron manifold or it will rust. But the paint hinders the heat dissipation. If it were a aluminum manifold you would leave it natural because aluminum soaks heat faster than iron.

How do you put the line

I painted engines for decades without a primer, recently I have started using primer, both gave excellent results. Just do a light basecoat without a primer and follow up with several light coats with a little time in-between.

What’s going on brother.. had a question. I have the same carb running on my 70 Impala sitting on a 350 crate motor..how many vacuum lines are usually connected to the carb? What are the important lines that can cause the car to stall when on drive gear?

You do not need primer.

It only flakes when you spray too much with a heat

There is a guy who does mostly Mopar stuff on CZcams. I dont remember his name. He suggests useing a blowtorch on the block to remove all oil in the pores of the block. You can see the color change on the block once the oil is burned off. It looked like it worked very well. He didn't use primer. Just a blowtorch.

Wipe it down with Laquer thinners before painting. It works !

I'm about to learn stick welding stainless exhaust on a Ninja ZX6R I'm building. Great video bro! Practice makes perfect👍

Hey David, thanks for the video. Do you know if this method can be used on the 1950 massey ferguson te20?

I used this on my Hartley Brake calipers. 1st coat took off the clear coat, second coat took off the paint and primer. Just had to use a wire brush to get all the left overs off. Saved me hours of sanding all the little concave crevasses on the caliper.

Does your generator power up to 240v when you turn it on? Mines only shows it powering up to 120v....

You need a good cam to wake up the 305, it has small heads and valves. Boost is great turbo will be nice. I used Vortech centrifugal blower with good success on a dog 350. Have Fun, Dennis

The metric size is 10mm x 1.50

Sheesh just call a Mexican mechanic those bolts will come out. Truco trocaso.

2 years later that same can costs over 23$ at Autozone....thanks Joe Biden.

I remember once I worked doing security overnight at a scrap yard. I had gone to the auto store and saw a can of spray on paint remover. So for something to do, I thought I'd pick one up and try it out on an auto panel at work. I was amazed at just how easily the paint came right off. I'm older now and I want to do some body work on my car, but all I've been able to find are gooey liquids. By pure luck I found out that spray on paint removers still exist so I'm looking forward to using it. Thanks for making this vid because it's good to see that they still work.

How did it not just weld to the table ?

Salute.... New sub over here

Good tutorial. Thanks for sharing

Suzuki Samurai, what is the model?? Year 1985, 1990??

THIS DURNED GOVERNMENT IS GONNA BE THE DEATH OF US BROTHER !!

A Friend Built one back in the 80’s And as far as I know She’s Still running in a Chevy Truck !!

It’s ridiculous at what it costs to build anything nowadays.

Great ! BUILT IT !

I have an 87 Monte Carlo SS I raced in NHRA Stock Eliminator K/SA (K Stock Automatic) and I have the option of using a 535 casting, 416 casting, and 081 casting. With a 3 angle valve job a 416 casting is hard pressed to hit 180 cfm @ .403 lift which is what a stock L69 cam has. With a 3 angle valve job the 081 flows 197 cfm at the same .403 lift which is actually better than every double hump head with a 1.94 inch intake valve @ .400 lift. Stock eliminator is limited to the stock cam lift which is .403 intake .415 exhaust. Both heads being equal the 081 outflow every other non vortec 305 by a lot and every 1.94 inch 350 head with the exception of the 113 corvette aluminum heads. If the other heads flowed better I'd be using them. And as far as the earlier smog castings (555, 434, 450, etc...) had 1.72 inch intake valves and are in no way shape or form a performance head. The chambers suck, the port suck, and theyre about 15 lbs heavier which in racing is a bad idea. Opening up the valve seat and putting a 1.94 inch intake valve in these heads will actually flow less than a 1.84 inch if you do not port them. Randy Brzezinski (Brzezinski Racing) has a whole video on this for those who are non believers. The intake ports on an 081 are 167cc whereas a 416 is 162. The exhaust ports are identical in cc's and flow numbers which is in the 119 cfm range with a 3 angle valve job. I wouldnt waste any money on these heads other than installing screw in studs and DO NOT ever use a roller tip rocker arms, they do ZERO for performance. Either use a full roller or a stock rocker, the roller tip rocker arms are waste of money.

I replaced my oil pressure gauge on my 49 8n, changed oil and filter and still no oil pressure. The day i changed the oil it showed 0 pressure, the next day it went up to 25psi but then dropped to 0 again. Going to try your method of priming the pump, but i have read these old tractors have issues with the pick up tube cracking and sucking air.

What psi works value?

Super illustrative video. Cheyenne c10 1978 350. I'm from Europe so only good videos can help me with the repair. Thank you

In 1995, the hot tip was a pair of 1976 305 heads, the only year they were heavy casted. Those coukd be cut for 1.94/1.60" valves, no problem. I did it myself. But now, just get a pair of L31 heads shaved 0.030" and do all you can fir exhaust flow.