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You mentioned an update for the L2 lengths, how’s that going? Would the fresh water part alone fit the l2?

How did you ever figure this out. Very refreshing use of space 👌

Hi guys. I need to do exactly this to a transit custom on a 13 plate. Gone to buy the product from your website and it says that it's not suitable for smart alternators? How have you got round that?

Can I use with 4kw gasoline heater by Velit?

Genuine question: what do you mean by having the thermostatic mixer to prevent constantly changing from hot to cold? Doesn't a mixer tap do the job? I'm planning my build in a t6 and working out crafty ways of fitting this great bit of kit in

Hi regarding the fuses am I correct in putting a 25amp dc fuse for the 12v fuse board and a 2amp fuse in the fuse box for the slave? And then in my ac fuse box I need the change the breaker for a 5amp ? Many thanks lee

Would you be able to do a video that shows (or explain) all the different states of running. For example: summer water heating only, winter floor and van heat only. Also include how much of the system is automated and how you ensure the heat exchangers that are "not in use" are kept from overheating damage? thx.

If the pump turns off when the temperature gets too high, will the water/glycol boil in the radiator? Would that cause issues?

at 9:00 you show a John Guest 12 mm fitting, what size/diameter thread does it need to screw into the barb fitting?

Do you recommend installing John Guest check valves before or after the system? How would you deal with pressure build up between the tank e.g. the shower?

Does the expansion tank come with the complete kit that you sell ? as i did see it.

Are there any components used in this video that are not included? If so, which ones are they? So I can buy them myself.

Is it possible to upgrade the old system - which I purchased a while ago? If so, how/what's needed? The homepage doesn't seem to be updated yet?

When will this system be available. I am about to purchase the duel system for my van.

a u d i o ….🤦‍♂️

I thought I spoke English fairly well but I didn’t understand one word of this.

Can the tanks be insulated from the colder winter weather prior to fitting the brackets.?

I have programmed as explained and notice that the controller does not switch off when the power drops below the 12.7 it stays on? im baffled has anyone any suggestions please

Hahaha ha! What a cop out. You realise that by using a VSR (set to lower voltage) you are COMPLETY removing the need for a dc-dc charger! Just use a low set VSR to charge batteries.

i assume this can be used with LPG heaters too

Woow I was just about to order a cak tank set but I like yours better, good timing.

if anyone wants a cheap super simple way to extract heat from the exhaust, just buy a pack of scotch bright stainless steel scrubbers. You can expand them from the middle and slip them onto the exhaust pipe. They have a ton of surface area and conduct heat from the pipe really well. they work pretty well already by passive heating, but you can add a fan to help a little. You can buy a 16 pack for $10. Thats all you need.

Hi! Great video, thanks for sharing the method. I am going to do something very similar with my 2015 Relay. Only unclear on one thing - once you make the whole in the breather connector, how far does the metal fuel pipe need to go down into the tank?

giving me itchy eyes just looking at you stroking that cat 😂

Great setup and the hot water heater is awesome! So I already have my van built with water heater (isotemp square) and water tank, could I use this with the glycol heater to send it to my water heater? Do you think it would heat it up like the coolant loop from van engine, I know it wont be as hot but instead of me rigging up the water heater exchange system.

Вот бы реализовать через твердотельное реле и вход 4-20Ma,

I’ve used multi solve , same brand as the CT1 adhesive and it’s good!! It might be worth a try mate if you’ve still got staining 👍🏼

Hello ! Nice work, I would love to buy this ones but I'm in France :( Do you think there is an option to isolate them and put an electric antiforst system ? Or you would not recommend using them below 0 ?

You wouldn't have that moisture problem if you mounted the heater inside like it is intended to be. Why try to heat cold outside air instead of inside?

Excellent lost a entire day looking for d+ on a vw crafter

Do you think it would be possible to use your system in combination with a block heater instead that a diesel heater?

Great video Ed, you make it look as easy as it is to fit them.

Ed can the switchover( diverter) from to heat water to heat hab area . Do you need the controller to control that ?

Awesome video Ed well done 👍

Promaster too!

Très bonne vidéo et explication ... Sauf que dans toutes ces vidéos sur l'amélioration électrique, il n'est jamais mentionné comment désactiver la recharge d'origine par l'alternateur de la batterie cellule, car cela vient en doublon du dispositif dc dc et donc lui passe au dessus en parallèle , surtout pour un parc de batteries lithium.

Why would you not build a heat exchanger to wrap around the exhaust pipe as opposed to having the exhaust air restricted, thus potentially creating soot?

What is P3 and P4? Do you know maybe?

I've got to install one of these for someone so ill be getting one of these. Low amperage one should be ok for this purpose given its only a low current signal right?. Just seems like an oversight and cost cutting that it doesn't have built in sensing like the victron. I'm not overly convinced about renogys stuff being that good compared to my experience with victron stuff that "just works" topped off with horror stories I've heard regarding their customer service. When I order one of these would you be able to provide the wiring diagram for the switch as well?

😂 there is no such thing as a fossil fuel stop saying that you sound stupid😂 Oil and gas do not come from fossils. The Earth makes them using heat and pressure.

I can see a ESP in the controller. Could you add so you could connect to the wifi in the van? And also could you add something like Mqtt to the controller so I could connect it to my home automation and turn it on and get status remote?

If the pump speed is too high, the water is flowing through the system so fast that it simply doesn't have time to absorb a lot of heat, or transfer that heat into the radiator. This is why you're seeing low differences between the intake/outlet temps of the radiator. That's not a good thing, from 38.8 to 40.9, you're only transferring ~2'C into the air stream. By bringing the pump speed down, you can bring the water temperature up until it is close to boiling ~80-85'C is good. This means that your radiator is now getting hot enough, so it is much easier for it to transfer that heat into the intake air stream. You'll need a variable speed water pump for that, with a way to govern that speed against temperature rises.

would this need mixing valve?

Water conducts heat better than air... which is why you see a difference.

Hi. Great video and thank you. Can i ask where the heat shield on your exhaust pipe is from? I'm doing the exact same route as yourself

Hello Ed, a great alternative to locating the D+ wiring. It seems like a perfect solution for vehicles manufactured before 2015 that have traditional alternators. However, I was wondering if the Transit Custom in the video has a smart alternator that was produced before 2015? I am curious to know if the system works with smart alternators since they have low-voltage outputs? Cheers

They are NOT "fossil fuels" 🦖my friend. . it´s a lie from the Establishment. They are simply minerals. It´s a big fat lie.

I'm thinking about doing this myself. My only concern is that if something attached to the bottom of the heater needs replacing, it looks like it would be very difficult to get to. Is that actually the case?

It's not an EGR cooler it's a heat exchanger

It's the other way around cold water always comes in at the bottom and hot water out of the top