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I have spent a few days looking for something commercial with no success. You can use a bench vice, but try to only grab your rubber mold on the ends away from your model so as not to crush the model. I have seen people use vice grip pliers to grab molds as they cut. These have been modified to be attached solidly to your desk top so you can pull the mold. If you have a bench vice that is bolted down you could clamp the vice grips into it.

@strataartstudios3826 Thank uou for trying to help. ❤️ I finally found one on Amazon. Others looking can do a search for 'RETRACTOR 2X3 PRONG BLUNT/BLUNT 4 1/2 INCHES'.

1. Thank you. I am trying to improve. Every change of angle means moving the iPad around to new location. So it means work, stop, shift iPad, work, stop, repeat. 2. I worked on these rings over several days. 3. When meeting with the client and getting the all different inspirational, the area where they live was very important to them, so that is where I got the idea to do the river. 4. I always design first. You need to know as much about what you’re going to build to give an accurate quote. 5. Do you mean when I am cutting the stone? If so it is a diamond blade, no teeth. So it will cut you but it would take a bit. It slowly grinds through the stone. 6. I asked a videographer once what would be the best to use and his response was the best you can afford or whatever you have on hand. Just shoot your videos. So the iPad is what I have and it seems to do a decent job. Some day I might get something better so that I can do better closeups and other things. 7. Equipment usage is completely dependant on the design being created. When I do more stone work in the future, the lapidary saw and grinder will most definitely make a reappearance. 8. There are always new techniques to learn and things to figure out. But typically when I am designing something it is done with the skills I already have, so the build process is worked out in my mind as I design.

Thanks, I am happy to hear that. Yes, when I do sketches for a client I will riff on a theme. Gives choice as well as narrows down the final design until you find the right one.

I don’t see why not. I have cut thicker molds in this manner before. Just keep in mind that the thicker the rubber the more resistance it gives as you try to bend it.

It is S A S graphically overlapped. Design-wise it has hints of several cultures, sort of Norse or Celtic knot work (without the over and under), and Asian seal or chop (which is a carved stamp, usually used as the artists mark on paintings or calligraphy).

There are a number of ways that the pendant could have been rebalanced. The bail could have been moved off center to achieve a level heart. More decoration could have been added to offset the weight. The only thing that would add risk to alterations would have been if the stone had already been set, although there are ways to protect the stone from the heat of the torch while soldering. But if you were worried about that the added design could be riveted in place.

Thank you. Yes, it was made to the requested size.

Yes, I really need to start including the casting in the videos. At the very least making one about the casting process. I guess I am just used to fiddly work after all these years. Where there is a will there is a way.

It was completed pretty much in one sitting over an afternoon.

Thank you for your kind words.

Thank you. I am glad it was understandable.

Thank you!

There are many things that could be causing this. 1. Are you holding the rubber mold with a metal plate on each side? This means that you can apply an even pressure over the entire surface of your mold. 2. Are you squeezing too tightly? If you are, this can distort the rubber preventing flow and also possibly opening up an area for it to leak out. 3. Is the pressure of your wax injector too high? Higher pressure may cause the wax to squirt out. 4. Is the wax in the injector at the right temperature? If too high, it will cause bubbles and sticking to the mold. 5. How long is your injection time? If not long enough then you are not giving enough time to fill. I count to three to give it enough time to fill. 6. Are you cleaning all the wax off the mold between injections? If you leave any wax bits stuck to the mold from one injection to the next, you run the risk of it holding your mold apart and causing the leaking you’re describing. I hope this helps.

Thank you my friend I will do as you adviced By following all the steps in detail And see the result.

Just trying to help.

@@strataartstudios3826 now do you have control over what key words/hashtags used in a search that will lead to your site?

Yes, when a video is downloaded key words/tags are added.

From what I have seen, a fixed break is always going to be weaker than the original solid wax. So you have to treat these areas with extra care. That being said when you do your repairs the heat of the tool you are using is critical to a decent join. If it is too cold the wax has melted but may not actually bond parts together ie. the puddle of wax just wraps around and hardens to create a socket instead of bonding. If it is too hot you are almost boiling the wax and this adds a lot of bubbles. So it is a matter of finding the happy medium. I hope this helps.

You're welcome. Glad it helped.

I will be doing more wax carving videos in the future. I am glad you liked this one. Thanks so much.

it's been an hour since I posted. Where is my answer?

We do intend to fully insulate the entire garage but possibly not all at the same time. So as a stop gap by closing in the stairs and insulating them, we can put an interior door at the bottom and have somewhat of a sealed area. I could styrofoam the undersides of the steps to really close it in but we will see how far I get.

@@strataartstudios3826 so is the area going to be your studio?

Yes that is the plan for the second floor.

Another "step" closer!

I was using a scalpel to cut the mold. You can get them from any jewellery supplier. The other tool I used was an old burnisher to pop out the sprue cone, but you could easily use anything that you have on your desk to do this job. It just happened to be the first thing I grabbed.

The Castaldo gold is less expensive than the pink. So it is just a cost effective method if you’re making a lot of molds.

@@strataartstudios3826 thanks for answerme. If both cost the same, would you always wear pink? Is much better?

The “no-shrink” pink is slightly more expensive than the gold. It saves me say 50 cents a mold to pair it with the gold. That can add up if you are doing a lot of molds. I like the “no-shrink” pink because if you can accurately get your temperatures right when vulcanizing there is less shrinkage loss from your original model than other rubber types. There are so many different types of rubber on the market these days that all have different properties. Try some out and see what works best for how you work.

@@strataartstudios3826 thank you very much! And sorry for my poor english, im from uruguay 😊

No problem at all. Happy to help.

Thanks!

Thank you.

Ya it’s a nice place to relax for me and my nymph.

Well, first, they are toads not frogs. Second, you should support these small independent creatures. With this, their first ever acting gig, they are simply striving to get recognized as true thespians and get a tiny flipper hold in the gigantic world of cinematography.

Examples of primitive casting date back to somewhere near 4000 BC. The first signs of lost wax casting is in about 2500 BC. The use of rubber molds, I am really not sure of the dates. I will do some research and let you know.

Haha! I'm sure that might be a copyright infringement. Soil is 7-8" deep, so not for root veggies but deep enough for everything else we're growing.

@@strataartstudios3826 So why not till the ground instead of those beds?

@@indobson The ground in that area tends to puddle when it rains. We're also using the "no dig" method of growing (add a new layer of compost each year).

Yes, root veg needs about 6 to ten inches of soil depending on type. We are planning on lettuces and leafy greens. Should be fine for them. We will see.

I am glad I kept you on the edge of your seat and thank you.

I will be doing casting related videos.

No, just his jeweller.

Thanks! Tackling it a little at a time!

They flew the coop! ;)

Thank you. I have always tried to find things that work. Knitting needles are measured and size labeled already.

Thank you.

Approximately 5 hours.

Or is it there was always a spoon? As Michelangelo said the spoon was always there, you just needed to remove the surrounding material to free it. Or like Shrodinger’s cat, until you look there is an infinite number of possibilities contained inside.

@@strataartstudios3826 So now you have to do a bowl.........

Yes, that is the plan. Also a kuksa ( a drinking cup ). A future project I want to build is a Viking pole lathe. So both carved and turned bowls.

They are just on the other side of the river.

That is a good idea. We do know that there was a large barrel mill just upriver. They produced barrels for shipping salmon, apples and other local produce. It burned down some time in the 1930s.

Yes it would. Maybe that is a thought process for future projects.

Thanks so much! We are excited as well with all the possibilities. Keep watching for more updates.