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@@CannaGro81 It depends on the hydration status of the plant, the size/age of the plant and the environmental conditions. If it is growing season and the temperature is favorable I wait two days (seedlings) to a week, the larger the plant the longer I wait. I often do partial watering and other times, especially if the weather is very hot, I do normal watering. The state of the plant should dictate when and how.

Yes, I collect some sulfur powder with a brush and spread it over the fresh cut. The sulfur powder mixes with the moisture from the plant's flesh and dissolves, as if it were paint, and it is easy to cover the entire area. I use wettable sulfur, used as a fungicide and acaricide.

After the sulfur dries, I put a rooting hormone in gel form, let it dry a little and put it in a pot with akadama or pumice.

You are in the United States, I cannot help you. But if you want to buy plants from a specific location, go to trusted producers. The person who sold me these two deceived me, the plant that flowered in the video is the northern variety, not huizache. He also sold me seeds of Lophophora alberto-vojtechii "Nuevo Leon", and the plants turn out to be L williamsii.

If you have one available, why not? I test the setup first to predict how it will work. I usually use another type of heating mat, with less power, made for reptile terrariums, and place the box directly on top of it.

Hi, I don't know if you're referring to secondary roots or hair roots, the very fine ones. Some people cut the secondary ones to make the main root grow bigger, I don't do that. Recently repotted some plants that were in clay pots, my favorites, but I had to change them to square plastic pots, to lack of space. I removed most of the fine roots, which had taken the shape of the pot, and were firmly clinging to it. The secondary roots were well developed. I'll show you in the next video. I am familiar with the process of cutting the secondary roots, although I do not practice it. I generally only remove the fine roots because it makes potting easier, allowing the substrate to surround the entire root without empty spaces. They would dry out anyway, and new ones would grow. But the secondary roots I never cut. My goal is to have healthy, natural-looking plants as much as possible. If plants are in an environment conducive to developing large roots, they will do so. Lots of heat, little humidity, inorganic substrate, and a period of inactivity, for example. They, within their capabilities, will adapt to the environment in which they are. They can grow with flat heads, with a large amount of "farina" and large roots, or as green balloons and thin roots, and within a huge variety of intermediate stages.

@@lophofloraohhh now i see a difference in the roots, I thought It was just the thick one and the thin ones. Thanks for the information! I'm waiting on some seeds so I can finally start growing mine and just trying to educate myself as much as possible lol. That's a beautiful garden you have, and great videos btw.

Uno L. diffusa y dos L. "Jourdaniana" (L. williamsii jourdaniana)

Cactus. Lophophora diffusa and Lophophora "jourdaniana". czcams.com/video/kxkWKa6iAkY/video.htmlsi=nvtfMv1728iuCmUo

Hi, generally I wait a week. It depends on the temperature, and if the roots are damaged. If it is a healthy plant I soak the substrate. For this plant size I use wormcastings, 10-20% added to a mineral substrate, the bigger the plant the less organics. It depends also on the type of minerals you use, and particle size. If it retains a lot of water, use less organics. For the mineral mix I'm using now, I add 10-15% wormcastings. Also I now add fine pumice sand to my mix, and it retains water.

Unfortunately the plant with rust spots died a few months later. The interior had been devoured. I learned that I shouldn't buy plants from other countries during the winter.

I use a mix of mineral materials. Usualy I buy some already containing various types of stone. I don’t try to focus on one specific formula. I'm focused insted to mix a substrat that has the right characteristics. It must have the right particle size, must be stable under humidity and provide aeration. Usualy my mixes contain a fine vulcastrat substrat 1-5 mm (a mix of pomice, zeolite and lava), and you are good to go just with that. But, generally, I add other fine grain mineral substrates I have. Lately I'm adding some pomice sand, very fine, to substitute quartz sand. And then I add some organics like worm castings.

Yes, and if it is cloudy for several days the flowers last longer.

They have a very nice geometry. Unfortunately, one of these two is not of the variety it should be. Namely the one that bloomed. I found the characteristics of the flower strange and when it produced fruit without being pollinated I had confirmation. Some of the seed varieties I bought from the same person are also suspect but I only be able to confirm when they produce flower. It's not that I'm too upset about it, as I have more of this variety bought from trusted people, but I've removed this seller's name from my list.I'm not saying he's dishonest, but at the very least he's incompetent.

Hi! This was Myrtillocactus geometrizans.

@@lophoflora most common, but I found pc is indestructible. I am putting Fero Cactus on a pc right now!

@@cactuscapacity I have three pachanoi but I don't want to cut them. :)

This plant was the only one that germinated from his sowing. I grafted it onto Pereskiopsis and it gave me several pups. when the Pereskiopsis stopped supporting the weight of the plant I separated all the heads and grafted them on Myrtillocactus. One of the pups gave me flowers and and even a fruit with one seed. Which is strange because this plant should be self-sterile. I sowed the seed and it gave me a plant. Maybe I pollinated one of the flowers and I don't remember. :)

@@lophoflora I am amused by these situations, the dynamics are just! LOL!

I often do the same when I want to repot immediately. When the root mass is too large, I remove the fine roots (they would dry out anyway and give way to new ones), and let it dry for a day or two and repot.

Hi! I don't understand what you mean. Can you post a link to an image of that issue?

Have you ever seen that before?

CZcams keeps deleting the link.

Where can I send the link? Everytime I post it on here, it keeps being deleted

If you have a Facebook account, look for one of these two groups: Lophophora Growers Worldwide or LOPHOPHORA - identification discussion and appreciation. And publish a post with pictures.

Hi, the box was not sealed. The lid was supported by silicone door stops. The gnats must have come from other plants in the room, probably my Pothos.

Most likely yes. Even if it gets cracked, it will heal. :)

Sorry, I haven't stopped recording, but I haven't been able to have time to edit. I work in rotating shifts and in my free time I also do illustration, I've got a job for a scientific paper and I'm putting together a personal botanical illustration project involving the genus Lophophora.... These plants were repotted during the months of May and April, too late, the pots were completely torn and the substrate exhausted. It was something that I had to do little by little, due to lack of time and because in the meantime I ran out of some ingredients that I use in the substrate and that have to come from another country. They are now growig well. Some of the williamsii from the state of San Luis Potosí already have pups.

I use liquid fertilizer on plants that are in purely mineral substrate, and worm castings on younger plants.

Thanks! There's black lava in that substrate. 😊

Of course. Soparco 7x7x6,2 size. I never buy them in the same place, and sometimes the price vary a bit. If you google the reference above you will find them, probably more near were you live, and spend less in shipping.

Well, I don't have a rigid system, it depends on the temperature. This year I haven't watered yet, I should start next week. I try to pay attention to the weather and whenever a series of 4 or 5 sunny days is predicted, I water. I can give more or less water depending on the temperature and the age/size of the plant. Larger plants in large pots can stand longer without water. I avoid watering if the temperature is below 20°C, especially plants in large pots. Where I live the summers can be very hot and very dry, the youngest plants, may receive water twice a week because the substrate dries out very quickly. It also depends on the type of plant you want to get. I don't like the spherical Lophophora, I prefer the flat ones.

@@lophoflora thanks alot im new and i recently got a lophophora but i keep getting confused on when they need water compared to trichocereus.

@@nsjhdhdhdbhsudgvdydb7751 For Lophophora in the growing season, you can use the palpation method. If the plant is firm, it does not need water, if it is soft, it is dehydrated. You should take into account the differences between species and even between individuals, generally my Williamsii tend to have tougher skin than other species of Lophophora.