Video

This radiator is fully capable. Just had a 103 degree track day with zero coolant temp concerns! Check out my latest video titled about the improved racing oil cooler.

For reference: Just was at sonoma and it was over 100* that day. My oil max temp read was 253 degrees.

@@477racing nice. Yeah I’m just trying to get a reference for a daily driver. Average I’ll run about 210 deg, wonder what the difference would be.

@@user-oi4in1cx1f If your oil temps are 210 you have absolutely nothing to be worried about. I would only worry if you were running 275+

@@477racing yeah I wasn’t worried about it, was wondering what difference did you see in temperature reduction on average adding the cooler.

@@user-oi4in1cx1f On the highway it's about 200-205 on an average day. Might have been about 220 on a hot day before with no cooler.

It is, base models might not have the sensor. I’m not too sure about that.

I don’t technically have a gauge, but the C5 does monitor transmission temperatures. The place where you fill the trans with oil is a temperature sensor, which is being monitored by the PCM. The car is designed to alert you if the temperature goes over 265°, after it alerts you of that the temperature remains visible. I have heard of some people who will lower the alert temperature to something around 200° just so that they can monitor it.

Thanks bro

I didn't do any data logging because Harry's Lap Timer produces better quality video and audio, but I don't think it ever went above 220. Oil temps barely hitting 240 on the day.

Harry's Lap Timer I paid for one of the purchase versions. I wanna say around $15

Yes you are baby

who is bro

I just looked into this further: there's a TSB stating not to torque to 162 because bolts were breaking. Use 107 for used bolts.

czcams.com/video/Tqzc9sFexs4/video.htmlsi=PAieqxFbXdTWMdhu

Yup, just google improved racing to find their website

I'll be honest, I don't think coilovers are all they're cracked up to be. Adjustable shocks? Probably worth it... but I'm happy keeping it simple, eliminating a variable, and just running it.

@@477racing agree 100%! If you aren’t racing and doing track days I don’t see a point in spending that much on adjustable suspension.

Man... I'm sorry this free content I made 11 years ago doesn't meet your expectations... a video meant for entertainment purposes only. So sorry about that... 😂

What has worked for me every time I've refilled the coolant (did it a couple more times for cam install and once more to try to fix an oil leak at my front timing cover after that cam install...) was cracking the front steam port bolts one at a time and lifting them up to ensure coolant flowed out. And also following all normal vette coolant fill procedures. If a vid would be helpful I could make one explaining what I do

I tested all the thermostats in boiling water and they were all good. It was just likely a bubble in the cooling system I had to get worked out.

@guyhub Thank you so much brother! I appreciate it

I'd go with 187. I had a 160 before with the stock radiator and it was running too cold. With this radiator for normal highway use, your coolant is going to be pegged at the thermostat level without even using the fans. If you're forced induction I would maybe consider the 180.

I did use stainless braided lines. As for the calipers... They are exactly the same, just not red.

Yeah but not very active. More of a lurker. I think I'm 04vette or something like that. Glad the video helped - this radiator has been kicking ass on the street. Waaay more cooling capacity. I just finished a cam job and temps are still way down for me.

Do you have the part number for those Dorman bushings?

@@bat5917 I would source the proper GM bushing instead. I ended up trashing the ones from Dorman. They worked in the mean time, but the fits way better with the GM one.

@@477racingwhere in Florida? I’m in Lakeland with a c5 that we did a 416 stroker in…looking to do some shows and course with it

Reach out to me on my social media @nickaknows on Instagram

Its great! Track temps are approximately 250, even on a hot day. Can basically run all day without issues.

Acting like you could have done any better

@@nachothemacho0389 the driver is literally stuck coasting 90% of the time the fuck you mad at the guy who commented for? you one of those piss slow drivers who goes to the track to block people n enjoy the view?

Yes just make sure you get correct version for manual or auto

Thank you for the advise, I never could dial in that turn. And ya, I believe I was on stock brakes with Hawk 5.0 pads. I was getting fade by the end of the day and I cooked my caliper piston boots. 😅 I also should have been using a better brake fluid, because I think my pedal was super spongey on the drive home. Have a C5 now and I would love to get back out to Laguna!

@@477racing hope you got the Z06. And yea pads and fluid is the key. Get good brakes and bed them in at home or on 1st lap,very important

Yea I would take a look at the AC hard line on the bottom binding up with the radiator. Focus on moving that out of the way of the radiator and it'll come out pretty easy. Def smart to take a step back and don't force it. It's just a matter of finding what's binding and trying to move that part. The condenser is only held in place by its lines on the passenger side. You got it!

In the rear yes, they have an et of around 70 something. The front didn't need spacers but they could have used them to make them stick out a bit more and not look so "sucked in" to the wheel well.

I've never heard of it, how is the cost comparison? This swap was well under $1000

​​@@477racingused Camaro SS Brembo calipers go for between $125 to 150.00 $ plus rotors but no adapter bracket required!!! czcams.com/video/-zVVUnpxoKg/video.htmlsi=wib2qbsURT_3fEvm

​@@477racingused Camaro SS brembo calipers average 125.00 to $150 on eBay they both up directly no adapter required

Camaro SS brembo calipers average 125.00 to 150$ on eBay and they mount up without adapters !!!

Yeah dude the ads kill me, I use adblocker on chrome on my desktop but I'm still screwed when using my phone

how hot does it get sitting in traffic with A/C on? Cause rn sitting in traffic with the stock radiator is between 220-230 and that scares me XD

@@theoutbreak1651 yea that scared me too, it may creep up to 208 but for the most part it avgs 205

@@jaystrongsgarage3913 that's awesome ill definitely be ordering that radiator really soon

I had a corvette mechanic tell me that is normal as the high speed fan does not come on until that temp. . Anyway, I took my vette to a tuner and had the computer reset for the fans to come on at 180 degrees. I live in Florida. Engine temp never breaks 200. @@theoutbreak1651

I think they were a cheap set off Amazon, but it's been about 5 years so I could be wrong

In my opinion, I found them to feel softer on the street compared to 2004 stock Z06 shocks. As for the track, I feel that the car handles excellently. I was hitting 1.25 G's in some of my turns. Unfortunately, in stock seats I was holding on for dear life. I could probably get more out of the car with some actual supportive seats.

A Corbeau bucket and a harness and you’ll be loving life! Of course you’ll need a seat bracket and a harness bar and belts. A word on belts, get the ones that transition from 2-3In wide on the shoulder strap so they will fit in the channel of your HANS restraint. HANS is required if you run a harness, if you don’t wanna kill yourself. Back to the belts, also get the style that tighten by pulling up rather than down, there isn’t the room along the sides of the seat to tighten by pulling down.

TJ Brutal customs mostly for everything. Seat, rear fender, carb jets/velocity stacks, and exhaust. The tail lights I did myself. The handle bars came on the bike, unknown any info about them.

@@477racing thank you so much

@@477racing oh what about the tires

@@ricardomilos7324 As far as i know they are factory rims, not sure on the tire brand. I don't think I bought them. I don't have the bike anymore or I would totally let you know! :/

I have sold my car but I liked having the type four. I experienced less oil leak issues due to better design and I enjoyed having a factory oil filter. Admittedly, the parts are more of a premium. If you're on a budget, it's probably better to stick to type one. Obviously if built properly, theoretically type 1's shouldn't leak oil. It was not my experience though lol. I think I also enjoyed the Challenge of the swap as well.

@super71beetle In your opinion, did you find the engine easier(or just easy) to rev up? I'm building my car for street/autocross, so I want a decent ability to rev. I suspect a T1 would rev up faster due to lighter internal parts, but the T4 is going to last longer. I think I live somewhat near you(in Modesto) after you mentioned Marsh Creek rd. It's a shame(from my perspective) you sold the car

@@johnlist9054 look at lightweight flywheels if you want a fast reving engine. I don't think one revs faster than the other pound for pound since the bores and stroke are very similar. I had a 71mm stroke by 96mm bore. As for selling the car, I have a c5 z06 now for racing. Once I got into my c4 vette, I realized I was fighting an uphill battle to make the bug do what the vette does. I have auto crossed the bug and it was fun! Needed more gear though for the track I was on in Monterey

@super71beetle totally understandable. I did see the video about the C5. I'm a big Super Beetle enthusiasts, so my point is to autocross a Super. I will do it for fun more than to be competitive. It makes the build a bit more difficult due to the need to maintain streetability. It'll be more a car for the street that can occasionally do an autocross.