Video

would probably hold horizontal, would be interesting what would be needed for vertical would it have enough to stop it slipping. I guess you could have a stop block at the bottom for the track to rest on, then the clamps wouldn't have to grip as strong.

Here is a follow up video of block to fit the newer Irwin clamps that came out this year or last year and need no additional hardware - czcams.com/video/0LEwkHsijr4/video.html

good idea if I was planting something, my soil isn't great. I will be putting retaining wall posts in there and can't get a machine in that part of the garden easily so will be digging those ones using my own manual labour

@@aloneinfinland isn’t that what learning is all about? Btw, I was not expecting that auger to go anywhere and neither of the three drills would have been capable. I knew that up front because I have had bigger augers and bigger machines in my garden. The point was to save people money avoiding the incorrect tools in rocky soil. In other words, you need a bigger auger and a bigger machine. Wouldn’t CZcams be a better place when comments became more constructive.

That was the point of the video, to save others from thinking these were any good in rocky soil

Hydraulic Scissor Lift Table, this one was purchased and delivered from Paramount Browns in South Australia for $183 at the time - www.paramountbrowns.com.au/products/scissor-lift-table-135kg/ (They are normally used for lifting Motor Bikes I believe)

thanks

I don't think the heat would do anything, but would be worried about the SSD being constantly written to 24 hours a day unless the SSD Firmware/Fetch Software had good wear leveling so that all areas of the SSD are written to an equal amount of times. It could make menus and restarts faster.

great idea (albeit mine is also clay which makes it stick to everything when you add water)

good ideas, the last one I used had the right angle handle, but my soil is very rocky/shale, so I usually have to use a two man auger which is still hard/dangerous in my soil - tried one before, If I need a lot of holes for retaining walls, I usually pay someone to bring a machine to dig them, just that in this patch of garden I can't get a machine down there and only have a few holes to dig, so thought it was worth trying these small augers. Before I tried these augers, I was manually digging with post hole digger and 6ft crow bar/breaker.

my cordless Bosch wouldn't be much use on hammer. The last drill (bigger one) I used in the video has a better hammer action which I have used to split concrete apart. Is amazing how much easier it is drilling into concrete using hammer action.

Yes if that switch can behave like the pressing of the button, be it optical, relay….

Thanks... Next neebie question.. how would I bypass the switch on the 1820?

glad it helped

yup. I have only a few holes and have been digging them with a 6ft crow bar and manual post hole digger, hard work, but those 6ft poles can split the shale apart.

And a 6ft breaker bar 🙂

I wasn’t talking about if a printer could print outside it’s stated range, just the considerations you have to make printing within the stated range, like on mine, the test line is within the 265x256 and to solve that you need to pause printer to give you time to remove it if you are doing a large print or just reorient the part to be horizontal if it only used the whole width in one direction. Or the consideration that one should design in rounded corners if using the full bed, as in you can’t print in mid air over rounded bed corners that are not physically there and this case it is 7 mm you can’t print on, so design that into your parts before you printed them and find out that fact later.

What kind of issue are you experiencing? Video was about showing some common issues. Imagine if the issue was one of the items listed, you would have saved calling out a technician, now at least you can call out a technician knowing it was not something simple, like a fuse-breaker

great idea (albeit mine is also clay which makes it stick to everything when you add water)

I believe the P and X series can be modified to print on the full bed of 256x256 - wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/print-volume-limitations but that does come with some limitations mentioned in the link.

Is a good option. Nose in is better for my charging position and marginally easier overall.

All good ideas

Depends on your point of view. I have a 3D printer and love designing things to print so perfect for my situation. A tennis ball has its drawbacks.

That's the best. It works with no camera and no fancy 3d printed things...

Yup, always more than one way to solve a problem. I had an object on a piece of string before, but that just blew about in the garage (maybe a heavier object would have helped) and when the car is not there you have to avoid it.

@@bragee If you have a camera and a 3d printer - it is a great solution. If you don't then other solutions are better. You have to avoid a tennis ball when there is no car there.

@@RandomSmith not to criticise but I think that a multi filament 3d printer is definitely an overkill solution for this kind of issue. I use the tennis ball since years and never had to make fancy or complicated movements to avoid it...

Those Teslas with parking sensors will go closer than 30cm, but many Teslas do not have parking sensors at all. However none of these sensors are useful if you are approaching the cluttered back wall of a garage: depends what exactly it is measuring the distance to.

Not sure if it is a Tesla thing. But it won't go closer than 30cm as seen in the video.

@@john_hind In the Tesla Model 3, the sensors stop at 30cm or at least the software stops at 30cm as seen in the video. Mine is one of the models that still had the ultrasonic sensors in the front and rear bumpers.

@@RandomSmith Yes, sorry you are right, even on my Model Y. I was reading inches and it does go to just STOP when closer than 12 inches, or about 30cm. Memo to Elon: PLEASE let us use miles and miles per hour, but metric units for short distances. Some countries like the UK are hopelessly mixed up about this: everyone under seventy uses metric, but the over seventies and politicians live in a bubble with the newspapers!

True, I started with a red marker pen on the concrete, that faded and was hard to see in the dark. So having a contrasting plastic sign that won't fade and can get wet and take foot traffic so was perfect for my situation. Anyone who has a 3D printer loves making things for themselves. I don't need an electric screwdriver but I do like using one.

I see the refurbished price has dropped $90 since your video as they're selling the newer Gen4 (M681T) for new purchases. $149 from JB I see so that's $130 cheaper than when you did the video. For that price, with JB making a profit, and fetch obviously making a profit after refurbishing them and repackaging with new remote, cables, boxing, wrapping, shipping, they're obviously doing a very very very very simple fix on the drives and reuse the drives. Reminds me of when Samsung repair centres got thousands of dead TVs just out of warranty, quoted $300-$400 to replace the boards, then when the quote was declined, they replaced one 50c blown capacitor and sold the TV's refurbished for a few hundred dollars.

If refurbished one is reasonably priced then that is a good option. If your machine is playing up and giving intermittent drive related messages, that is a good point to clone the drive before it fails completely.

You could boot off a live Linux thumb drive and use clonezilla, but you'd also need X2 connections to hardrives, ie: Fetch -> new HD It's also possible to save an image of the Fetch, then "burn" that image to the new drive, but this is complicating things and you'd need more then 1t or space for the image (maximum) to do it that way For ~$35-50 the stand alone clone box is the way to go.

Fetch told me my model M616T needed a cloned drive, so couldn't put in a larger drive, I believe later models can have the HDD swapped without having to clone an original, so should be able to accept larger drives because the fetch box should be able to initialise/format it.

Thanks for that, I’ll try without cloning first 🙏🏻

​@@timljhcmHow'd you go?

​@@RandomSmithof you have a spare 4TB drive for free you could just clone 1TB and it would be 1TB usable. So you could use the bigger drive but not use the extra capacity of it.

Hi. I tried the offline cloning with a larger 4TB drive as the destination. As expected didn't work unfortunately. Not even only using 1TB of space (just got the hardware error message) as you mentioned. My hope was for more storage so just having 1TB isn't gaining me anything. I'll have another play with it when I have some time. Thanks for your help :).

I agree, have used one before, just wanted to see what these smaller ones were like

Yup, impact would be better with a flat spade bit

good idea...

Yes, was in gun correctly, but it did bend at one point, so maybe that is what you saw, not straightened out 100%

A better comment would be telling me how I used it wrong. An auger like that is never going to work in rocky soil. I have had larger augers in my garden struggle, so there was no hope for this small one, so the point of this video was to save others wasting time buying one of these for rocky soil.

@@RandomSmith 1. You need to hold it firmly. Use your knees for stabilazing the grip, so you don't damage your wrists. 2. You dont go so fast with the machine. Take it slowly. 3. Do not press down to the soil so hard. Use the "breakchip drill" technique like they use in CNC machines (you can google it)

A lot of my soil is like digging through rocks, so usually dig by hand with breaker bar or pay someone to bring a bigger machine with auger