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It's the dampener. Some models don't have it, so I'd say it's probably safe to leave it off.

@@infamous4289 I'm definitely leaving it off then.

It's actually 10x easier because of the extra room. It makes most things easier to be honest.

@@1967fordable ok thinking of getting the jba headers for my new 3.0L crate engine I got imma do a supercharge build should sound cool with them

Yes and no. The oil pressure switch was bad and quite frankly still is. I have the part in my rear door but haven't changed it.

Luckily for you @x740 Reaper, I am a professional welder.

@@1967fordable no professional won't use gloves, coming from a NCCER certified Welder

Lol. Sounds like you got soft hands bub.

I got plenty more coming for you. Gonna go ahead and put the second half of this video up tonight....it gets a little hairy. I have about 6 videos recorded but between me getting into a rut and working a lot I just haven't uploaded.

I would just get some felpros from whatever parts store you use. They're good quality.

@@1967fordable and they will fit my JBA shorty headers?

That's where you're wrong. This mod has been tested on mustang and ranger 4.0s and works fine with no lean condition nor check engine lights. Thank you for the input though.

@It's a Ranger Thing that is incorrect I have had customers come in the shap that have done that mod and caused p0171 p0174 bank 1 and bank 2 lean codes has also set codes for the dpfe it is a piss poor mod just to get it to have a lope at idle does nothing on performance and good tech would know this good day

I'm just telling you what I've seen. I clearly state in this video that it only affects sound at idle. No performance enhancement. I never got a light from doing it and I've seen other who also didn't get a light.

@It's a Ranger Thing it could also depend of the calibration of the ecu and model ranger explorer and mustang

Yes sir. Make sure you swap over the EGR valve and it's supporting wires and stuff if the 03 doesn't have it. The 03 that I got my stuff out of didn't have one and I did a bit of research and some of them did and didn't in 03.

@@1967fordable yeah mine doesn’t have it. Long story short my engine is out of a 04 and I had to swap a lot of my 03 stuff on it a few years back. I was like you and thought maybe someone deleted the egr but after a little research some of them in 03 didnt have it lol.

Sorry man. It sure sucks having to swap out that harness. Sounds like you know how to make it happen though. Good luck.

I just had to get one from the same motor and year ranger. The year doesn't have to be super specific but it's got to be close. They changed a couple things as they went. Before 01 they used a speed sensor in the tail shaft housing but other than that it's a pretty easy swap.

Yeah it was a 4wd thing.

Well, I say that. The edge 2wd also had the hood but has an identical suspension setup as a 4wd without a transfer case and front differential.

Sorry to hear that. I e had nothing but good luck with mine. They are also under warranty

You could have a faulty EGR as well. They take a long long time to throw a code.

@@1967fordable That's what I was thinking but I already took it off and cleaned it and all. The MAP sensor is like loosely on there but fully connected. I was think of replacing the whole thing but they want like $150 for a new one so I'm going to a Salvage yard and pull one for $10 at a local one my dads great friends with.

I would imagine so but I don't know what it calls for. I use thread locker very seldomly. I don't often have bolts back out. I also didn't put this case back together. It's pretty much shot.

I found them on eBay for 100$

I honestly can't say there's much of a difference. I was already catless with a mostly custom exhaust, so there wasn't a difference in sound. Power doesn't seem improved either but I can't imagine it would've gained much being that they're designed the same and the factory logs. I can however say that it solved my problem of having horrible mounting hardware. My factory logs had been on and off so much that the hardware was shot but rusted in so I really had no choice.

It really is a neat trick.

I haven't had an issue with mine. My shifter is worn out but I have a spare for it in storage and just need to replace it. I actually like this trans quite a bit. It's my first manual truck transmission and I can definitely feel the difference. Car transmissions seem to be buttery while this trans is really notchy and the gear feel is on point. I've never had a transmission that had this much feedback. I love it. May be downfalls for someone else though.

@@1967fordable I’m talking about the automatic they are garbage

Oh for sure. They're great when they're in working order but as soon as they slip once they never even try to recover. I got tired of them and decided it wasn't worth my time and money replacing them anymore.

@@1967fordable I had a 2001 Ford ranger and I did the same thing but I got a computer guy to delete the automatic stuff out of my computer

I found it way to easy to just swap the computer from my donor truck. I had everything 6 feet apart from each other so I saw no reason not to. The steering column and pedal assembly was a bit of a pain though.

This is a 4.0 SOHC

No problem man. I'll tell you what I do know. To me it sounds like you dumped you fluid and killed the trans. Your cheapest route and best considering the price and longevity of a rebuild or buying a new trans, would be to pull a trans from the junkyard and run it until it goes. There's hundreds of them. Pick on and go.

@@1967fordable Specifically, you think I should pull another Automatic? Or a manual? I imagine swapping an Auto is cheaper to get done at a shop versus the Manual swap, right?

You're breaking into new territory with a manual. I won't say they're expensive because mine actually made me money. The manuals are very specific for the motor and they have to be 2 or 4wd specific as well

I did, yeah. When I swapped to a manual trans I also swapped the computer and no longer had an EGR.

@@1967fordable what all does it take to manual swap? Price?

Wow, that's a really in depth question. I'll just tell you how I fared. I bout a rusty, non running 4.0 manual 4x4 truck from 2 and a half hours away. The fuel for picking it up cost me 160$ and the truck itself cost me 400$. The seller threw in a set of freshly machined 4.0 SOHC cylinder heads as well as a 4x4 hub bearing. I sold the cylinder heads for 300$ after sitting on them for 8 months. I sold the hub for 50 at around 6 months. I scrapped the truck after squeezing every good part I could off of it as spares for 220$ which only cost me my fuel. In the end I profited.

I ended up using the transmission, the cup holders, the floor plate, the starter, the PCM, the steering column, the door locks due to the new ignition, shifter and boot, I also spliced some wires on my trans harness because harness swapping was more work than I was willing to put in.

@@1967fordable thanks, might do that someday if I ever find a donor truck. Good to know I don’t gotta swap the transfer case

The input shaft spinning isn't a big deal. Most manual vehicle will do that regardless you just don't know it because it's not enough power to move the vehicle. The rattle is probably something that was already there and you didn't notice until you got under the truck.

@@1967fordable i uploaded a video of what exactly is occuring... the other day it would continuously spin while in park, today is spins for a moment and stops czcams.com/users/shorts_FPn1Jm9zFg?feature=share

Thanks man. I ended up finding it in a forum when I was having issues. I ended up using this little truck fairly often because I modified my ranger to sound like it had a cam in it at idle and it required me to run the idle pretty low. So my needle always bounced a little.

It's an 02 4.0 4x4. The headers don't do much beside look better. My main reason for putting them on was broken studs on the stock manifolds. I'll be redoing the exhaust soon with 2.5" from the headers back.

@@1967fordable did you have to tune it or got a check engine light or anything

I did them based on broken hardware and looking better. Everything I had read in forums said the gain zero power and only make the engine bay louder. I was fine with that as long as I could fix my exhaust leaks.