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For me it was the Primary (Big) fan.

No, it was actually that he got it so hot that the plastic radiator drain plug blew out of the plastic end tank. The radiator and hoses were new, but he had the switch for the radiator fans turned off.

Tinkercad is the most basic, and probably easiest to use. I've used FreeCAD a little, but I've only really played with those two. I keep meaning to find a better one and really committing to learning how to use it well, but I've been busy with a lot of other things lately.

What codes did you have before/after replacing the sensor?

@@VHickleGarage right rear wheel ABS sensor... strange that ABS, ASR and also tyre pressure light are on simultaneuosly

I should have thought to try sand when I was doing this. Great Tip!

@VHickleGarage anytime, buddy! Dex-poo is the worst. Bought my daughter an 06 grand prix and I'll be changing it over to green soon.

Also, since dex-poo breaks down into an acidic form, you could try a base like dawn dish soap to cut through it and neutralize it.

I would say if you're worried about them you could just order spares to keep on hand. I haven't really had much luck reviving an old one once it starts acting up. I have had decent luck with the cheaper aftermarket sensors though. I would highly recommend getting the VAG-Com and VCDS from Ross-Tech. Being able to easily read codes and interact with the vw specific modules is essential if you're going to do any work yourself.

VAG-COM from www.ross-tech.com/ Absolutely essential if you work on your own VW/Audi. If it saves you one trip to the dealer it will pay for itself.

Great tip. At the time I did this one I did not have a set of ramps. I just replaced one of the front sensors, and could have even done it on the ground had the sensor not been stuck. Ended up taking the wheel off so I could see what I was prying on.

The sensors aren't that expensive so you could give it a try. However, I do NOT recommend just throwing parts at a problem without trying to diagnose it first. You should scan the computer and see what codes you're getting. Most likely it will be one individual sensor, but it could also be something more serious like the ABS module. Unfortunately, I don't have any advice beyond that. Trying to fix anything without scanning first is often a recipe for wasted money and frustration.

Diesel is less flammable than gasoline, but ideally you don't want to drive around with a significant leak. Mine was weeping for a long time before I was able to track down the source. However, it was leaking onto my motor mount, not the exhaust. If you know it's getting onto the exhaust then I would try not to drive it until you can get it fixed.

@@VHickleGarage Thx for your answer.Mine leaks to motor mount too.Honestly saying, We traveled 3000 km even I have this problem.Then one-day I said myself,ooo I m so stupid if this leak reach exhaust and it flames? But yesterday I checked again it leaks mount.

@@gokhandemir44 No problem. It will destroy the rubber in your motor mount eventually. . . ask me how i know. My new pump is leaking again, at the fitting this time, so I need to go fix that properly. Fitting keeps working itself loose. Either way I would recommend getting it fixed sooner rather than later.

@@VHickleGarage Thx Sir.

Sadly this has not gotten as much attention as I was hoping to give it. I did just get rid of another car, and am planning on using some of the money to get the trans so I can get this project done. Hoping by fall, but worst case I will have this swap done by end of this year.

Really hope to see more on this. I have an 03 ZR2 I want to do a manual swap on. Already did it on my 99 camaro SS a while back. The T56 is so much better than the 4l60e that came in the camaro. I don't know much about the nv3500 though.

I used PETG not PLA, but it is still holding up pretty well. Actually made an update video on the trim, and a few other parts a couple months ago. czcams.com/video/AejjC10u14Q/video.html

Absolutely, my Right front sensor is currently acting up and causing the lights again.

@@VHickleGarage just changed them all still have the lights

Best bet is to try to find a wiring diagram for your car. Most likely one is a high speed, and one is a low speed. However, If you already have electric fans (which you must, if there's factory wiring) I would suggest replacing with the correct fan for your car, and not swapping to a generic. There is no benefit, and you'll likely lose the ability for two speed fan operation, and possibly your AC fan trigger.

@@VHickleGarage thank you sir for your response I actually did the latter which was the go and get knock off OEM with the three wire setup I appreciate your response again thank you

@@denniscampbell9376 You're welcome. That was definitely the better choice. . and exactly what I would have done.

I'm not very familiar with that platform. If you just had hoses done, and now you've got coolant showing up, it's most likely that one of the hose clamps is loose. If you're finding coolant ABOVE the location of the water pump then it's highly unlikely that the pump itself is leaking. Look for something leaking above the pool of coolant. If you get the dye and UV light like I showed here then you should be able to track it down pretty easily. My money would still be on a loose hose clamp, or hose that's not fully seated.

You're welcome!

😆 I was more so documenting the $$ outlay to make the repair.

@@VHickleGarage were just having a little fun. (But charge her bro!) Great video!

It would be wise to consider your alternator output when calculating the fan power draw, but you may not need to upgrade. I had already upgraded to a Suburban Alternator prior to doing the fans. I believe it was the 140 amp unit, so I have had no problem with the fans getting enough power.

It is possible to replace the module only. I looked into it, and I believe it was about the same $$ as a whole new fan + module, so it didn't seem like it was worth it. On my '04 Audi it's an exterior module that I have replaced. . . however I have also replaced the complete two fan assembly on that one as well. Good Tip on the cardboard. I usually do this, but didn't this time for some reason. I'm definitely getting to an age where I can tell when I've spent too much time lying on the concrete lol. I also like the fact that if any fluids get spilled the cardboard prevents a bigger mess, and makes clean up easier.

I have a similar problem with a Skoda fabia 2019 just randomly the fan doesn't stop of run at full speed and no errors or abnormal temperature just unplugging the battery and leave unplugged kind of reset something and comes to normality, but it's odd if plug something that uses battery the fan stops and or open and close a door so no idea of ours the fan or any sensor or module

All of those warning lights, and it being an intermittent issue definitely sounds like my experiences with an ABS sensor that's on its way out. I've got another one like that right now, and the lights just recently came on and have stayed on, so I've got another one to replace.

I ordered from Amazon. Here's the one I used: amzn.to/3gm3nyS (affiliate link) Like $25. Front/Rear are slightly different so just make sure you get the correct one you need.

Strange that it isn't showing you any codes. Did you try to clear all codes anyway and then Drive/Scan again to see if anything shows up? The dash lights shouldn't all be on unless there is some kind of fault detected. If you have a genuine VAG-COM you should be able to go in an find the signal for each sensor, but I don't remember which code blocks they're in off the top of my head. Ross tech's site should be able to direct you to the right place.

I would certainly encourage it! Some of these Ender 3 variants can be had for closer to $200 now. Although the more you spend the less you'll probably have to worry about setup and upgrades. Just depends how much time you want to hobby aspect of the printer itself. I'm nearly 4 years into 3d printing and still have at least one printer going pretty regularly.

Unfortunately, no. Hoping to in the next couple months. The 4l60e is making god awful noises and is probably about to explode.

Sure, as long as you've got coolant/water in the system once it gets up to temp it should run through the entire cooling system.

Always glad to hear it helped someone else!

You'll need some kind of obd 2 cord. Best option is the VAG-COM that's specific to Vw group cars. I use one along with their VCDS software.

It's usually the fan control module that ends up being the problem, but since they're typically sold a 1 unit it is easiest to just replace the whole thing. Of course if your fan isn't coming on at all now it's could be the fan motor, but a new one should hopefully fix your problems either way. The one I used, and linked to in the description seems to be a good inexpensive option. It's been nearly a year now since I did this and I haven't had any more issues with the fans.

Did you figure out what the issue was because I'm having the same problem

The bolt broke, or the sensor broke? If it's just the sensor it should be pretty easy to drill out since it's mostly plastic. Alternatively, you could use a torch to heat it up and probably get it out that way. If it's the bolt, you're going to need an extractor (never works for me), or you'll have to carefully drill it out and then chase the threads, or re-tap it. Worst case would be drilling it out too far, in which case a helicoil kit would probably be your only solution.

Very frustrating, I guess I got off easy with it only being the sensor. I'm a little confused though. . .If you're not getting any errors on the left side why check the wiring for that side? You did install the correct replacement sensor for location correct? . . .i.e. you didn't put a right front sensor on the right rear, etc? I've hear of the abs module itself going bad, but I have fortunately not had to deal with that issue.

@@VHickleGarage maybe I fumbled my words. The error exists and reports the rear right wheel only. The driving data reports all three other sensors registering speed minus the rear right wheel. Hence the needed wiring inspection and (hopefully not for now) the ABS module revision. To answer your questions straight up: nope. The sensor is correctly installed. Thank you for taking time to reply!

@@marcelosilva9429 Got it. Hopefully it's just a small short in that rear right wiring. 🤞

Thank You! They should have, but for the price I knew there were going to be things wrong with it. People don't usually sell a car for less than half the BB value unless there's something wrong.

So it’s the sellers responsibility to protect you from you? Welcome to America.

@@h.r.puffnstuff8705 Caveat Emptor

I'm not saying this is a good permanent repair, but it will make a huge improvement if you lost a big weight and are trying to get home, or get by for a couple days until you can get to a tire shop.

Glad it was helpful!

Here's the one I used: amzn.to/3gm3nyS (affiliate link)

Lol pretty much, but now I got a black coffee can tip. 😆

Mostly because it went on sale and I had some tax refund money 🤑

I used the 2x Satin in Canyon Black: amzn.to/3y8LLCT (affiliate link). It's been about 8 months, so far I don't see any signs of deterioration or fading. I'm sure it's a matter of time though, FL sun is intense. I should have gotten some 2K Satin Clear to top it all, that should really give it some longevity.

Glad I could help!

No problem. Most likely, it is a very common issue.

I'm guessing $1100-1200 all in. Couple hundred more if I do have to get both driveshaft redone.

Glad it was able to help!