Lowering From Above
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- A tutorial on various techniques to lower your climber from the top of the climb. This includes when you have to release the devise while belaying in guide mode, as well as when you start belaying at the top and need to lower your climber to the bottom of the climb from the top of the wall.
Definitely the best and certainly most clearly presented video on CZcams. Thanks.
This man speaks with zero qualifiers. 🎉
I’m an AMGA certified rock guide
I had to stare at this reply for a while. I didnt mean you didn't have "qualifications". You certainly have qualifications :) i was complimenting how you dont speak with "qualifiers", as in you do not muddy your words with unnecessary adverbs and justifications that would otherwise make the message hard to follow. It was a compliment that you speak clearly
Oh, I had no idea that those sorts of words were called that. Thanks for the compliment, and sorry about the dry reply!
I have binge watched so much stuff that I came up with this exact setup by myself. Feels good to actually understand the devices, ty for the content!
the updated version is so much easier! great work!
On our first outdoor climbing trip. Your advice is precious, thank you!
Great videos, thanks for putting them up.
What a great tutorial thanks for showing this new method
I just recently found your channel and am so glad I did! I've yet to find a video that wasn't super helpful. Thank you for making these. I'm not sure if you monetize any of your videos, but I'd certainly be interested in supporting via patreon if you have or make one!
just saw that you have one!
Awesome information as always, thanks!
safety is no accident. thank you.
Dude awesome video. Everything explained quite well.
Do you have a video explaining why you clip into the side of the knot on a one point anchor? Im having trouble visualizing how that is redundant vs clipping into the shelf one strand on either side. 10:07 in this video is just before what Im referring to.
If you're using a munter to lower, you do not have to fight the rope because you can use the third hand the same way you do with the ATC. I just don't like using a munter loaded unless necessary because it kinks your climbing rope😉
You don't hold the Munter in the position of taking slack in; you just let it flip, and then it self-brakes far more effectively with minimal effort. The only method besides a grigri that can catch a factor 2 fall should be learned by every trad climber.
Awesome video! Quick question...is it necessary to redirect the brake strand when using the LSD system? I noticed you did it when inverting the device, but wasn't sure if it's required when separating the ropes independently?
It's funny you ask that, because I was thinking the same thing and looked at a couple of different sources to see what other people did. In those other sources no one redirected the break strand, so that's why I didn't do it in my video (one of the sources was the official AMGA video that has Jeff Ward demonstrating the skill he's IFMGA and one of the head instructors and examiners for the AMGA so if its good enough for the AMGA not to use a redirect then it's good enough for me.) However when I watched a different video with Silas Rossi who is another AMGA instructor team member and IFMGA Guide he said that he definitely would redirect the break strand, so there is some different options out there. Either way if it makes you feel better while using this system then go ahead and redirect the break strand but you don't have to if there is to much friction or you don't want to. Thanks for watching!
could you pls explain handling the OVO for multipich climbing as 1) follower and 2) lead climing , if the follower come up and pass the (belay person) and climes directly ahead as lead climer ? thanks
Great video. How would you lower using a Gigi? I see that using an ATC that you redirected the brake strand. Would you do the same with a Gigi?
If you use the LSD method with the Gigi you don't need to redirect the break strand, if you use the older method then you do have to redirect the break strand. I have a different video on how to lower with a grigri, but you pretty much jut have to redirect the break strand and use the lever to lower.
Another way to lower someone from a blocked GiGi is to pull with your body weight not the carabiner into the lower hole, but the brake carabiner already in place, using an Italian hitch at your harness as a lowering knot
shouldn't you be making a safety knot on the break strand before you start working and going hands free?
great vid
Spledind content here👌. How can i use a plaquette in a lead belay mode?
Are you talking about a Gigi device in lead belay mode? They aren't really designed for that use, you're best off using a different belay device for that.
@@ryantilley9063 yes i refering exactly to that. Since once you are swaping leads i. Multipitch, you Will have to lead belay.
@@ryantilley9063 and in that case what would be The main advantage in using a Gigi rather than other device?
👍👍
gi gi
LSD Method @ 5:21