EASY Inner Tie Rod Replacement
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Get the straight dope on how to replace worn inner tie rods frustration-free and easy. This video will show you how you can get the job done (both sides) in about two hours.
I watched some other videos (ChrisFix, Scotty Kilmer, Eric the Car Guy), and they don't tell you how hard/frustrating/impossible it can be to remove the inner rod, especially what are called the OEM-type rounded inner rods (like I had). In fact, the car parts store rental tool didn't fit the size of my replacement tie rods! So I bought the universal tool, and had to wait for it to arrive before I could finish the job. Once I had it though, it was super fast, and confidence inspiring. This was the first time I've ever replaced the inner or outer tie rods, and the Mayhew Speedy Universal Inner Tie Rod Tool makes this job super easy.
Demonstrated on a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser (turbocharged).
Tip #1: Get the Universal Speedy Inner Tie Rod tool
Tip #2: Don't bother with the "count the number of turns" method advocated by some others, do an appoximate alignment instead with a few simple tools
Tip #3: Use stainless steel zip ties to replace the boot clamp. You can find them very inexpesively on eBay.
I will show you:
0:26 - How the tool works, and why it's important to have the right tool
1:55 - Removing the outer tie rod end
4:06 - Removing the inner boot clamp
4:39 - Removing the inner boot/bellows
5:28 - Inspecting the inner boot/bellows
6:30 - Removing the inner tie rod
8:00 - Rounded OEM-type tie rod!
8:32 - Installing the inner tie rod
10:32 - Installing the inner boot
12:11 - Installing the outer tie rod end
16:44 - Consider replacing other suspension parts also!
17:44 - Performing approximate alignment
22:50 - Results of hand-alignment compared to computerized laser alignment
Finally someone who knows what they are talking about, many thanks
Thanks, hope it saved you some time/headaches!
My dude, that's q great video. I'm a "do a lot dad" myself looking for videos on how to remove inner tie rod ends on my son's car and I came across this one. GLAD I WATCHED THE WHOLE VIDEO!!!
Youbetcha. Glad it helped.
some new washers and 2 lugnuts tightened enough can be used to keep that rotor flush when performing this method of steering adjustment on toe.
Very clear and easy to follow. Thanks.
My pleasure!
Really impressive video, and I watch lots of car repair videos. Thanks for the Mayhew demo as well. You convinced me to buy the tool. Thanks again. Hope other people discover your channel. Best wishes.
Glad you like it. The "dad" part of my life has left little time for additional videos, but more instructionals coming soon!
Good job. But like most videos I’m not sure why people don’t address the fact that there are shoulders on the rack that need to have a wrench placed on them to counteract the torque created by removing or installing the inner tie rod end. As you do mention you don’t want to over tighten it. But there is shoulders on most racks for a second wrench to counter the torque applied when tightening or loosening. Seems like everyone disregards that completely. The shoulders are definitely there for a reason. Thanks for the video
NicoSilva said something similar, but I'm not convinced (yet) that it's required. Thinking through the forces (up to 100 ft-lbs), the materials (steel rack teeth), and the physics (applied force vs. counteracted force) I don't think it will cause an issue. First, the force translated from the inner tie rod into the internal components of the rack (teeth, seals, pinion, etc.) can't be counteracted merely by holding the external rack BODY because the components inside are constrained in place within the rack body anyway. No amount of counteracted force on the rack body will do anything to balance the force being applied to the INTERNAL components because the rack body is bolted to the chassis. Stated differently, holding the rack body merely applies force to the rack body against the chassis bolts, and would do nothing to counteract the force applied as the rod is torqued down. I don't recall seeing any way to hold the rack (or any other internal component of the rack) as the rod was tightened down, but maybe I missed that. And from a practical standpoint, even assuming what you're saying is correct, one would have to have a wrench applying an (increasing) counter-torque as the tie rod torque increases so that there is a net zero force applied to the internal components during the tightening procedure. Otherwise you'd be applying 100 ft-lbs (or more) in the opposite direction at the beginning of the tightening process which gradually reduces as the torque on the tie rod end increases until you reach a point of equilibrium between the two wrenches. If I'm missing something, I'm curious to hear more. And a link to another source explaining things would be helpful too.
@@doitalldad4211 - yes you’re missing my point obviously holding the rack body is not gonna do anything. What I’m talking about is on the actual rack that comes out of the body that the inner tie rod screws into. There are two shoulders just like the inner tie rod typically has. Those shoulders are for a wrench. That wrench would then counter the torque applied to the inner tie rod wrenching. It is absolutely there for that purpose. I was able to put a small wrench in there and counter it sufficiently on my install. I must admit it’s not an easy thing to get to and it takes a very special narrow wrench. Go watch Timmy Toyota toolman video. He explains it very clearly. If you don’t crank down on the tie rod too much and use the lock washer properly as well as blue Loctite I’m sure you could get away with a moderate amount of torque without hurting anything. Obviously that works because most people do it and don’t mention the other option. Thanks for the reply
czcams.com/video/--HcOQlv03U/video.html
@@condor5635 Ahh, I think I see now. The inner part of the rack will come out of the housing, and I think at minute 10:48 I see some flat spots on that part where a wrench could be applied to hold it. Thanks for that clarification!
@@doitalldad4211 - Glad it helped. I see how you put on the metal band which made me remember how I hated putting the one I had on. Didn’t think it was designed very good - had three or four metal loops all around and those two little tabs that you stuck your screwdriver on to hold it in place I had to do from the side as opposed to the end like you did. Never seem to secure really well but finally got it to go tight. Just didn’t like the design at all! Have a good one!
The hardest part of inner tie rods is getting that damn boot off.
Bro that was a very good video. In fact it's better than some of the vids of those so called professional mechanics on u-tube. Straight to the point. Maybe you should make more videos for the DIY guys out there. BTW from where did you buy the tool?
I appreciate it, thanks! Tool was purchased online (I don't remember where), but it's made by Mayhew, and they call it the Speedy Universal Inner Tie Rod Tool.
@@doitalldad4211 you can rent them at Oreilys auto parts
I want one of these tools its on my list next to the control arm tool
That's a Beautiful $150 tool only way to go.
It would.ve been "easy" for us if you did it without that tool.......
Great video thank you
That inner control arm bushing needs to be replace
Yeah, there was other maintenance that probably needed to be done to that PT, but it was sold.
Good video.
Are you working without jack stands?
(never mind I see the stands)
Good video bud
Great Video!
Thanks!
Where do you get the tool to replace the inner tire rod
I think a few companies make this tool now. Mayhew was the first, as far as I can remember. I think I found mine online somewhere. Also came with an adapter if you needed to do smaller tie rods like those on golf carts, ATVs, etc. Original part number was 29910, but it looks like they have a new version, no. 29912. The availability of repair kits for the tool might suggest it's prone to failure, but mine has worked well on the few jobs I've needed it for. I paid just north of $100 for mine, but the new kit is over $200 now :( Pretty spendy tool for the average guy who might only do this job once. Maybe the parts warehouses have this version of the tool now that you can "rent" (buy-return).
very good video
Thanks. Hope it saved you some headaches/time!
Very informative and thorough!.... had to look everywhere for this info... bc I have OE on my 07 impala... none of the tool rental kits from autozone, Oreileys, or advance had the “universal” inner tie rod kit I needed.
I too had to buy it online from tooldiscounter.com, cheapest place I found it..
Not one of these Auto parts ”EXPERTS” could help me.... once again ty for this video
Do you know the torque spec for the inner tie rod? And for the outer one also ? Can’t seem to find it
On my 2007 Mazda 3 (2.3L), it's 50.6 to 98.6 lb.-ft. (or 68.6 - 98.6 Nm). Not sure whether that's about right for other vehicles!
Andy Nunez the only thing you need to worry about torquing is head bolts...
Why ppl are so worried about torques? Ignorants...
Ivan C that’s how some people learn, some can choose to do it a right way if there is one. Why else, ignorants...
The alignment solutions chosed by you it is not the best one rather then standard one of counting the rotation of the outer tie rod because you spend more time doing same job competing to the spinning method,
There on the standard method it is less
hassle and the job is more quik ..!
Sorry for my remarks but this is my own oppinion.
Thanks for the comment. I have done several of these jobs, and have found that my measuring technique works far better than counting the rotations. Although the "counting the rotations" method is faster and requires less tools, I found it did not result in good total toe angle, and rendered the vehicle undriveable--especially when changing the inner rods. As you can see at the end of the video, the technique I use shows the actual measurement of the alignment once at the shop. The total toe was within specification, although steer-ahead angle was out of specification, which isn't a big deal. Total toe is what makes the vehicle driveable to get the proper computerized alignment.
@@doitalldad4211 you probably struggle to count since each time I’ve done it (learnt from a garage where i was working) the car always drove pretty much straight and almost none of them needed an alignment but all were checked to be sure of course.
@@Alexander_l322 I hope you found the information helpful, even though you're being insulting with the comment.
@@doitalldad4211 well no not exactly, I meant it can be hard to keep count of the turns and once you’ve lost count then it’s pointless and it will definitely need an alignment but if you can confidently keep count then it’s ok to do it this way.
@@Alexander_l322 I kept accurate count (on both sides). All I can tell you is that when I tried that method, it was not aligned. This could be because I replaced both the inner and outer rods. There are two possibilities: (1) If either the inner or outer rod has a different length along the threaded portion to the point of rotation (joint), then counting won't help at all because the lengths between the inner and outer joints different. (2) If the beginning of the threading on either component is not exactly the same. I.e., if you look down the length of the threaded portion, and the beginning of the thread is not in the exact same spot relative to the orientation (up/down or front/back), then you could be up to one full turn off!
How much Would I Need to Charge for This Repair. Tie Rods Only?
Whatever the market will bear! Honestly, I have no idea. You definitely save time with the tool, but you also need to pay for the tool as part of the job. No easy answer for you, sorry!
@Nathan Explosion If I remember, you get a slotted (flat head) screwdriver, and insert it into where the strap folds over on itself, and then rotate it so that you apply torque between the two layers of the strap. It should pop off as you separate the one layer of strap from the other.
@Nathan Explosion I don't recall. So long as you don't damage the rubber, that's the goal. Maybe put a putty/tape knife against the boot as a shield before you try prying to prevent marring or gouging the rubber? Good luck!
I was quoted 380 for just the inner rods and alignment.
Late for sure but just so people know that Autozone does sell a part thatw ill remove the original tire rods. It's a bit of a pain in the butt but if can't wait for a few days for the Mayhew to come in it's worth checking out for $20. It's part #25296 www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/inner-tie-rod-tool/oem-inner-tie-rod-tool/94645_0_0?fromString=search&make=&model=&year=
That will work on the round type, assuming you have access/clearance to tighten the nuts! Definitely cheaper than the Mayhew tool, however.
Mayhew looks far superior for sure. On mine (2003 PT Cruiser Turbo) you just barely have clearance to get a box wrench in to tighten the bolts. I just got done installing the new ones actually. A huge pain in the butt to use it but It's just a suggestion if someone (like myself) needs it back up and running right away. If you're unlike me and have the foresight to know you will be changing them definitely get an easier to use tool.
How are you securing the rack? This looks like a good way ruin your steering rack. That would be $500 or more!
You don't have to remove or loosen the rack itself, so I'm not sure what the concern is. All you're doing is removing the inner tie rod from the rack, installing the new one, and securing the dust boot around the tie rod and rack.
@@doitalldad4211 The force used to remove the inner tie rod puts force on the rack teeth unless it is held (countering the force). When inner tie rods are removed on a lift two wrenches are usually used. One to hold the rack, the other to torque off the inner tie rod. This does nothing to support the rack.
@@nicosilva4750 I see. You may be right, but thinking through the forces (up to 100 ft-lbs), the materials (steel rack teeth), and the physics (applied force vs. counteracted force) I don't think it will cause an issue. First, the force translated from the inner tie rod into the internal components of the rack (teeth, seals, pinion, etc.) can't be counteracted merely by holding the external rack BODY in place because the internal components are constrained in place within the body anyway. Unless there's some special service tool that can hold the outer face of the rack itself (where the threaded portion of the rod end is inserted) while the rod is torqued to spec, then no amount of "counteraction" on the rack body will do anything to counteract the forces being applied to the INTERNAL components because the rack body is bolted to the chassis. Stated differently, the procedure you describe would just apply force to the rack body against the chassis bolts, and would do nothing to counteract the force applied as the rod is torqued down. I don't recall seeing any way to hold the rack (or any other internal component of the rack) as the rod was tightened down, but maybe I missed that. Second, from a practical standpoint, even assuming what you're saying is correct, one would have to have a wrench applying an (increasing) counter-torque as the tie rod torque increases so that there is a net zero force applied to the internal components during the tightening procedure. Otherwise you'd be applying 100 ft-lbs (or more) in the opposite direction at the beginning of the tightening process which gradually reduces as the torque on the tie rod end increases until you reach a point of equilibrium between the two wrenches. If I'm missing something, I'm curious to hear more. And a link to another source explaining things would be helpful too.
@@doitalldad4211 See this tie rod replacement. czcams.com/video/AVQHgcXEhpE/video.html
At minute 6:20 he uses a wrench to hold the rack still while he torque's off the tie rod.
@@nicosilva4750 Interesting. I don't recall whether the rack had flats to get a wrench on the end or not. And that's the issue with different makes, as I point out in the video concerning OEM rounded tie rods: There's no flat surface to get a wrench on them, and the only way to do that job is with the special tool, but there are so many videos that give the wrong impression about how easy it is to do because their vehicles had different parts that made that job easier. Not always true, and I'm not sure if what you're suggesting is possible on every vehicle without some special tool. Thanks for the input!