Nice! I used what was lying around. The wheels are from a kids Power Wheels 4x4 thrown out. Body is an industrial grade poly tub, lots of plastic welding, 30amp charge controller, ports for plugging in additional solar panels, 100 amp hour battery, 1500 watt sine wave inverter, 40 watt panel hinged to the top. Built it in 2012, still using it full time RVing in 2020.
Yes this is how it’s done I plan on doing this on my boat trip this year stop on a sand bar pull out the rocket stove and pump the river water with my solar
see if you had like a gassifiere or rocket stove you could produce much more heat with much less wood. enclose the fire instead of having it out in the open. but ya do some reserch on gassifiers. mr.tessolonian has a lot of good vids on that and many more. check him out
Really like your set up. I see you have small panel on top of your set up power station. I wouldn't think can't maintain the battery for the pumps. Are you using the other panels for just the pumps, and/or you using it for also camp power?
+Jay Trock the panel hinged on the top of the main unit is a 40 watt. It produces about 2.2 amps in full sun. The big pump takes about 9-10 amps but it's only on to fill the tub which takes about 30 minutes and occasionally later for short intervals if more cold water is needed. Locations such as along this river in winter with trees on both sides on a clear day might get only 3 hours of direct sun. I have a total of 380 watts worth of panels and generally take them all even if I don't plan on using that much power. Better to have them and not need than not have them and run low on power. If it's cloudy or sun is not direct can only get a few amps out of all the panels. Full sun about 20 amps. I use the solar for lighting, fan, air pump, and other camp gadgets. Charges lithium battery packs for the chainsaw and lanterns, charge phones and camera batteries. Try to do all the major power requirements when the sun is on the panels. The main storage battery is 100 amp hours. It could run both pumps and more for hours without sun on the panels but the less you cycle a lead acid battery the longer life you will get out of it.
Trevor Fitzgerald it depends on how much length in all your lines. I use a 500 gph bilge pump and and best to keep it on full power no need for a speed control
Roger, I used to live in Florida full time and did this campfire hot tub there. Currently am full time RVing and in Goldfield, NV teamed up with Mr. M and Gly filming old mines seasonally.
+Jake Scarlett At first I used 30 ft of 3/4 soft copper tubing that I picked up for just over copper price on Craigslist. Later added another 20 ft of 1/2" bought new and joined by silver brazing in the middle. There's two coils in the assembly, one on the bottom of the frame and one on top. If you can afford it I'd use the larger diameter. Copper tubing is very expensive these days. Google says you can get 60 ft of 3/4" for $152.81. One thing not mentioned in the video about the many heat fins I spent hours brazing to the coil. I think eventually the brazed joints will break loose from heat expansion and contraction. Even though the efficiency is greatly improved with them, it's probably not worth brazing them on as I did.
I used 25 ft of 1/2” copper coil on a 150 gallon galvanized trough hot tub and I couldn’t get the water to circulate enough and the water kept boiling inside and resulted in the water only heating up to about 85 degrees. Any suggestions?
are you relying on natural convection alone to circulate the water? You would need shorter and larger diameter tubing. If using a pump, suggest more power or selecting a stronger pump. I used a 12 volt 500 gph pump in my system and would not recommend anything smaller.
+Pyro Parker with a carefully tended roaring fire and the PWM controller turned all the way up water is scalding hot I'd say at least 160F. Have to keep the water moving fast or it will flash to steam in no time and shoot out with much force. Bad for the rubber hoses too, weakened by the high heat. It would be best to keep the pump at full power. I run solar power with only a 100Ah battery so try to conserve power as much as possible after the sun is down. A 1000gph pump would be better, a12V pump would be about 5 amps at full power.
+oonauq Perhaps people are thinking this from burning insulated copper wiring for recycling. Most copper wire has PVC insulation which contains chlorine, burning generates toxic and corrosive hydrogen chloride gas and possibly other organic chlorides none would be pleasant on the lungs.
+RLZerr maybe welding copper could be considered toxic? It would have to at least be above melting temperature for any amount of copper to vaporize as a gas
RLZerr definatly solid logic, but I will still have to agree to disagree. If you throw a penny in a fire the flame after a few minutes starts to burn blue which indicates a poisonous gas when it starts to morph into a green flame it indicates that it is omitting stronger levels of the gas. Then again, i have only been led 2 believe this by my teachers, and in the end, history prooves that sometimes teachers can be misleading. Hence the testimony of Cristopher Columbus
Rad set up! You did a great job.
Dude! you are the only person I have ever seen who also invented the solar roller! (thats what I called my system just like yours.)
Nice! I used what was lying around. The wheels are from a kids Power Wheels 4x4 thrown out. Body is an industrial grade poly tub, lots of plastic welding, 30amp charge controller, ports for plugging in additional solar panels, 100 amp hour battery, 1500 watt sine wave inverter, 40 watt panel hinged to the top. Built it in 2012, still using it full time RVing in 2020.
Yes this is how it’s done I plan on doing this on my boat trip this year stop on a sand bar pull out the rocket stove and pump the river water with my solar
thank you real tips and tricks that work well done
This is incredible
some might say you are hillbilly, I say you are genius! Amazing work!
That's frigen cool.
Brilliant!
Very good.
very creative
Good job
see if you had like a gassifiere or rocket stove you could produce much more heat with much less wood. enclose the fire instead of having it out in the open. but ya do some reserch on gassifiers. mr.tessolonian has a lot of good vids on that and many more. check him out
Sweet!!
wish there were better how to instructions for a very novice person, like me..:(
Really like your set up. I see you have small panel on top of your set up power station. I wouldn't think can't maintain the battery for the pumps. Are you using the other panels for just the pumps, and/or you using it for also camp power?
+Jay Trock the panel hinged on the top of the main unit is a 40 watt. It produces about 2.2 amps in full sun. The big pump takes about 9-10 amps but it's only on to fill the tub which takes about 30 minutes and occasionally later for short intervals if more cold water is needed. Locations such as along this river in winter with trees on both sides on a clear day might get only 3 hours of direct sun. I have a total of 380 watts worth of panels and generally take them all even if I don't plan on using that much power. Better to have them and not need than not have them and run low on power. If it's cloudy or sun is not direct can only get a few amps out of all the panels. Full sun about 20 amps. I use the solar for lighting, fan, air pump, and other camp gadgets. Charges lithium battery packs for the chainsaw and lanterns, charge phones and camera batteries. Try to do all the major power requirements when the sun is on the panels. The main storage battery is 100 amp hours. It could run both pumps and more for hours without sun on the panels but the less you cycle a lead acid battery the longer life you will get out of it.
Impressive as f***
Are you an engineer?
I am doing this, you sir are a genius, what is the GPH on the pump you use to stop the coil from melting?
Trevor Fitzgerald it depends on how much length in all your lines. I use a 500 gph bilge pump and and best to keep it on full power no need for a speed control
Do you live in Florida? I found your channel via the mining channel.
Roger, I used to live in Florida full time and did this campfire hot tub there. Currently am full time RVing and in Goldfield, NV teamed up with Mr. M and Gly filming old mines seasonally.
Did you just dig in the snow and put tarps down or dig in the sand?
Can't tell from the video.
White sand, Florida gulf coast.
I submersed my coil in a large pan of water. much safer
What size of copper tubing did you use? I am looking to build a variation of this myself.
+Jake Scarlett At first I used 30 ft of 3/4 soft copper tubing that I picked up for just over copper price on Craigslist. Later added another 20 ft of 1/2" bought new and joined by silver brazing in the middle. There's two coils in the assembly, one on the bottom of the frame and one on top. If you can afford it I'd use the larger diameter. Copper tubing is very expensive these days. Google says you can get 60 ft of 3/4" for $152.81. One thing not mentioned in the video about the many heat fins I spent hours brazing to the coil. I think eventually the brazed joints will break loose from heat expansion and contraction. Even though the efficiency is greatly improved with them, it's probably not worth brazing them on as I did.
I used 25 ft of 1/2” copper coil on a 150 gallon galvanized trough hot tub and I couldn’t get the water to circulate enough and the water kept boiling inside and resulted in the water only heating up to about 85 degrees. Any suggestions?
are you relying on natural convection alone to circulate the water? You would need shorter and larger diameter tubing. If using a pump, suggest more power or selecting a stronger pump. I used a 12 volt 500 gph pump in my system and would not recommend anything smaller.
What flow rate would you recommend you set the pump that circulates water through the copper coil at?
+Pyro Parker I have mine set for variable flow would recommend at least a 500 gph with a 50 ft coil similar to this.
+RLZerr at 500gph do you have a rough idea of what temperature the water came out at? (obviously dependant upon how hot the fire if)
+Pyro Parker with a carefully tended roaring fire and the PWM controller turned all the way up water is scalding hot I'd say at least 160F. Have to keep the water moving fast or it will flash to steam in no time and shoot out with much force. Bad for the rubber hoses too, weakened by the high heat. It would be best to keep the pump at full power. I run solar power with only a 100Ah battery so try to conserve power as much as possible after the sun is down. A 1000gph pump would be better, a12V pump would be about 5 amps at full power.
+RLZerr thanks for the great info, saved me buying the wrong equipment and wasting money (Y)
hot
slt
Anyone ever tell you that copper over an open flame produces deadly poisen gas into the air?? Food 4 thought ;-)
+oonauq what "deadly poisen gas" would this be?
RLZerr ask google, if its on the internet it has to be true ;-)
Hell of a concept though. And very impressive engineering mind! Hats off
+oonauq Perhaps people are thinking this from burning insulated copper wiring for recycling. Most copper wire has PVC insulation which contains chlorine, burning generates toxic and corrosive hydrogen chloride gas and possibly other organic chlorides none would be pleasant on the lungs.
+RLZerr maybe welding copper could be considered toxic? It would have to at least be above melting temperature for any amount of copper to vaporize as a gas
RLZerr definatly solid logic, but I will still have to agree to disagree. If you throw a penny in a fire the flame after a few minutes starts to burn blue which indicates a poisonous gas when it starts to morph into a green flame it indicates that it is omitting stronger levels of the gas. Then again, i have only been led 2 believe this by my teachers, and in the end, history prooves that sometimes teachers can be misleading. Hence the testimony of Cristopher Columbus