Kase CPL. I use square ND so I can reuse them on multiple lenses. If I ever find a lens hood that can attach to a step-up ring, I'd totally go that route.
One of things that I appreciate the most about you as a CZcamsr is that you approach every topic from a personal experiential perspective rather than making absolute statements. Too many photography CZcamsrs make matter-of-fact statements that disregard personal preference or use case variation.
My reason for using rectangular filters is that I can slide the graduation zone up or down to match the horizon/sky. Round grads always have the grad zone in the center, where I rarely put my horizon.
@@MrClaudioAgostini Depends on the circumstance. No tool is useful in every situation, but sliding filters offer more options than fixed circular gnd filters.
@@MrClaudioAgostini They are not useless when the mountains are snowy (which is often in my case). Snow reflects all the sun and easily gets blown out. So gnd filter can block out excessive light coming from sky, clouds and snowy mountains and protect the highlights there. While keeping the vegetation & shadowy areas on the ground also well exposed.
Thanks for the post, Mark. As a side note regarding the vignetting on round filters, I recently made a slight adaptation by purchasing a set of round 67mm ND filters for my largest diameter lens and adding step up adapters to my 52mm diameter lenses. That allows the filters to extend further out and helps eliminate the vignette issue.
@@jeffb1886 I think the next most common sizes would be 77mm and 82mm. I'm not sure if there's much commonly available beyond those. The amount of relief will depend greatly on the focal length of the lens in question. It really only impacts wider lenses, so at that diameter it may or may not make a significant difference if it's a wide angle lens. Either way you'd probably want to try the larger option if giving it a go.
@@jeffb1886 Sure thing! FWIW, I did may POC with a fairly inexpensive ($22) set of NDs from Amazon. I was able to stack a couple, but started seeing a slight vignette at 18-20mm after that. Having confirmed the concept, I'll probably invest in a thinner set - if I can find them - to allow for more stacking options.
@@WLynnSargent My largest adapter ring is 95mm for my Nikon 200-500 lens. I use it with the WineCountry Camera 150 System, which was purchased for my Nikon 14-24. Expensive compared to others but worth every penny to me because of the filter vaults. In this video , he slides the filter in with a bit of resistance which has to be there to keep the filter from falling out. With the WCC set up they slide in & out so easy you don’t have to worry about moving the camera at all. The only down side is the set-up is huge as far as packing for hiking goes. Grads & reverse grads are good for ocean photos with a straight horizon mostly only(even a soft grad) in my opinion. I believe Polar Pro came out with a filter vault system kit at a more reasonable price than WCC. And it has a sun hood also. That is one thing no mentions about using a largest filter for a smaller lens size is you can’t mount a lens hood on. I haven’t used my polarizer enough to tell if you would even need a hood. I read on manufactures web sites where they suggest shading the square filters & I’m guessing for possible light leaks or sun flare depending on the angle. No light leaks as of yet with the WCC system. Quality filters use Schott glass which made with a certain process. Anyway, happy shooting! Edit, I do get vignetting at 16mm & below!
@@thomastuorto9929 Thanks for pointing that out! Guess I should have done a little more research, as I see that 95mm and 86mm are also fairly readily available. Thanks, too, for the recommendation on the WCC system. As a hobbyist, it is probably more than I would need, but always good to know the options that are out there. I will say that one thing I like about using the round oversized filters as I described is that it keeps them very close to the lens, which really minimizes the vignetting, even when stacking a pair of filters at 18mm. Cheers!
Thought I would reply as some of this info is dated. So go up one filter size for your landscape lenses. This eliminates the vignetting effect with circular filters. And use magnetized circular filters, screw ones are right up there with a standard transmission vehicle. I can reach for my filter and it snaps on in less than a second. Almost same amount of time to take it off. Stacking magnetic 🧲 filters same deal.
My only filter is the magnetic KASE filter. It’s bigger than my largest lense and I’ve a adapter for each lense. I rearly make photos with straight horizons, so I’ve no use for graduated filters, and it’s easier to bracket the shot.
@Philip Butler I’m very happy with the system. I my lense with the bigest filtersize is 77mm and I have a 82mm polarizer with two 72-82mm adapters, a 77-82mm and 3 lense covers.
I wish it would be possible to just have a magnetic ring on each lens all the time and then use a magnetic step up ring to use a filter size that fits all lenses.
@@slaindevil it’s possible with KASE magnetic filters. Just get filters that’s bigger than your biggest lense and get a ring for each lense. I have a polarizer of 82mm and my biggest lense is 77mm, the rest is 72mm. They also have magnetic lense caps, so it’s no need for unthread the adapter rings to fit a cap😉
I only regularly use two filters, polariser for daylight and light pollution filter for the obvious night shots. So those would have to be my favourite two
Step up ring, adapter ring, or "thingy" - it all works....appreciate the video, thanks. I use the Kase magnetic filter system and love it. I've not seen any vignetting yet with the circular type, and I like the fact that they are stackable where I could use a polarizer and an ND on it and they hold very tight. No light leakage either. They have a small case and after the first investment for the full set, you just get step up rings. Largest lens is 82mm so I got a step up ring for the other two. My most used is the polarizer by far.
I now use both the McKinnon PolarPro and NISI variable ND and variable ND/CPL combo circular filters. I still have and use my NISI squares for 6, 10 and 15 stop ND with the built-in CPL for lenses wider than 28mm. I can even say the threaded screw-on circ filters work on my 28mm prime with no vignetting. The variable ND's are great for waterfalls such that you can change the shutter speed by simply adjusting the variable ND filter attached to the lens without changing out a square filter or changing your F-stop on your camera. I have been a long time square filter user using both Lee and NISI products but have converted to the high quality of the newer circular variables. Just a personal preference as either work well. TIP- if you use step up rings Breakthrough Photography make the best for easy on and off even while wearing gloves.
Just bought a set of Freewell magnetic filters and I love them. I had previously bought a decent Japanese screw on filter and after a couple of uses, I was already tired of screw on filters.
In addition: the new magnetic circular filters are a bit better when it comes to vignetting, I've found. Plus you can stack filters beyond what you could with ordinary screw circulars.
I got a set of magnetic circular filters last year because I wanted to eliminate as much fiddling with equipment as possible when shooting. They are extremely convenient and as you pointed out vignetting is not an issue even when I stack a couple of them because they are thinner than screw-on filters.
I use the Kase magnetic filter system which I find suits my needs. The big pro is they are easy to use, however they can be a bit fiddly if you need to separate two filters on camera.
I have used both screw on and square/rectangle filters. I am in the process of switching to magnetic filters. Most of my landscape lenses have a 77mm screw on size. All of my filters are 82mm. With the step up ring, I am able to avoid most vignetting issues. The magnetic filters are easy to stack. They are colored coded (CPL is blue, ND filters are different colors) so you don't have to read the small print in the field to know which filter is which.
I have only used circular filters to date. I like to keep a clear filter on the front because I spend a lot of time in rough environments and it’s cheaper to replace even a $100-$150 filter than the front element of an expensive lens. In addition, I can leave a CPL on all day and cover it with the lens cap when the environment gets brushy, dusty or wet.
I’ve got both but use the square Lee system for the ease of combining polarisor and ND/grad. Also try screw-on filters with cold fingers. I ain’t that easy.
Good info, Mark. I'm currently using both types as you are, but both are a challenge to use in colder weather when your hands are cold. Square filters are difficult to slide in and screw-in filters are a challenge to align with lens threads. Both are also susceptible to moving your camera setup if you are doing multiple exposures with and without filters. Many landscape photographers are now migrating to magnetic filters (Kase), which seem to alleviate application while in the field. If I were starting from scratch, I would invest in the magnetics.
One issue I haven't seen touched on here and the reason I moved from circular to slide in square filters is having to refocus when you recompose a scene. If you have a very dark filter on like a 10stop or more it's a real pain having to unscrew them every time you recompose and need to focus again. With the slide in filters you can just slide it up, focus, then slide back in front. Much quicker. I've got Gobe 3,6, and 10stop 100mm square system. Very happy with them.
Everybody has their preference, but I like the Haida M10 system. I have tried multiple others. Main thing is not to short change your size; go as large as you can which benefits future lens which usually become larger as you buy more pro gear and helps with vignetting. What is nice about Haida M10 is it fast, secure, and convenient. It uses adapter rings and a very clever spring loaded clamp to attach. The best part is that they have drop in filters that allow creatively switching filters or stacking filters easy. Their CPL filters have a wonderful rotating wheel to set the polarizer which is important if you have a grad that must be oriented a certain way with the main filter holder. The cons are that if you already own filters it may feel cost prohibitive to but not the whole ecosystem or especially if you have certain favorites. You must also be careful with attaching the holder as it is easy to miss the adapter ring but this is true with many systems. Another thing I like is that the holder comes with a blank drop in to seal the slot from light bleed. Overall a well made and efficient system.
As a mirrorless user, I've grown fond of the clip-in filters which sit between the lens and sensor. Obviously, that won't work for a polarizer, but I have a 6 stop ND and a 10 stop ND, and they work wonderfully, allowing the use of any lens. This, of course, would be impractical with a DSLR, but the "wysiwyg" nature of mirrorless viewfinders allows one to see through even a 10 stop ND filter while composing.
great video! Performance wise I don't think there is much if any difference. I changed to Cokin P series many years ago, to save weight not only do I work with different lenses with bezels from 32 mm to 78mm. I also work across different formats including film. Mostly 6x6 and larger both in the field and studio, The main advantage is 6 adapters are lighter, cheaper, and faster than 6 sets of circulars especially with TLR's lacking a screw on the lens bezel ( had to make a special bracket for the tripod bush) The only difficulty I've had with "squares" is with graduated filters when using them horizontally, but Cokin adapters allow you to twist the the holder and cover an area at the side if its over bright for digital. I've never noticed a problem with light by pass (leak) or flare, even when stacking over a Polariser.
Very informative as ever Mark, thanks for sharing. I use circular filters, but did have one problem where a polariser got stuck on the lens threads, so that took a bit of resolving. Note to self: BE CAREFUL! .. I also use a UV filter most of the time, not for the filter effect, but just to keep the lens clean .. and hopefully it'll take one for the team if called upon!
Thanks, Mark. I recently sold my square filter kit and went magnetic with the Freewell system. It’s sooo much easier. I don’t use grads anymore, preferring to bracket and edit instead, so all I need is ND & polariser. 🦘🇦🇺👍
I have the Kase Magnetic Circular filterset. I got a polarizer, a nd8, a nd64 and a nd1000. It comes in a little pouch of +- 10x10cm. It takes very little space in my bag. They're very sturdy and have no colourcast like the Lee filters have. I use step up rings so I only have to get on set of filters. The filters can be stacked, so it's possible to use both the polarizer and the nd filter at the same time. I find it all together a really good and easy to use system. If there is a scene with a high dynamic range I just simply use bracketing while shooting and the graduated filter in editing. I understand that people want to have it done in one shot and use a graduated filter at location, but for me the extra costs and weight makes me prefer the system that I have.
I use a Kase magnetic round filter system, very small package, use it in 82mm with magnetic stepup-rings, so it fits to any of my lenses without any vignetting (I can use 3 filters together without vignetting in my lenses with 67mm filter threat). No need for graduatet filter, normally 15 stops dynamic range is plenty enough, if not I take two or three pictures and stack it. This is so easy and comfortable to use, I love it every time I use it.
Thanks for the video Mark I sold my Nisi 100mm grad / ND filters as I found them to bulky to carry around . Most or the time I left them at home, Nisi make fantastic gear so I bought 82mm ND and polariser Nisi filters they fit easily into my bag so they come with me everywhere. They are true to colour and because I bought 82mm with my largest lens being 77mm I don’t find Vignetting to be a problem. I have found luminosity masking removes the need for graduate filters. Screw on filters work for me but to each their own.
I have drawers full of varying sizes of circular filters and finally bought a NiSi square kit. It is nice to have one kit for all of my lenses. I made a home for the kit in my bag and now always have my filters with me.
Timely video, as I am close to buying my first filter system. I've had CPL's for each of my lenses up to now, plus a circular GND and ND for one lens. Now I want a system that can work on all my lenses. I am leaning toward the Kase magnetic.
Here’s my summery of the pro’s and con’s: A circular filter is the only option if we want to have a lens hood on as well. That combination also works as a very convincing protection of the front element of the lens if we are banging around in difficult terrain, difficult weather conditions and such. Also, with a screw-on filter nothing is protruding outside the perimeters of the lens and thus cannot hook on accidentally to anything if we’re moving trough some dense scrubs for instance. Threaded circular filters can be a bit “fiddley” to handle, especially in cold conditions. Square or rectangular filters are great for providing a full set of all the different types of filters that we like to use to fit all our different lenses with just a step-up ring to accommodate for the various differences in diameter. They also work well for stacking several together. And, as you pointed out, they are the only option for some of the more “esoteric” type of lenses on the market that doesn’t have a thread at the front at all. Also, these systems often provide a very useful wheel on the side to facilitate the rotation of a polarization filter. But a system of this kind usually comes with a higher price tag though. I have seen that Kase got a magnetic system of circular filters that can be combined with “step-down” rings, so you just get the filter for the lens with the greatest diameter and then you use it together with “step-down” rings on all of your other lenses. I haven’t tried it myself, so I don’t know how well it works in real life? But I like the concept except it doesn’t provide for an adjustable horizon on graduated ND filter of course.
To combat vignetting on screw on you could use step up rings and use a seize that is larger then your biggest tread, it also means you don’t have to own a set for every lens. There is also possible to use rear filters like the ones Kase make, but it’s mostly something you probably use if you know exactly what to shoot prior it also protect the sensor from sensor dust.
I prefer rectangle/square filters cause I find them easier to change on the fly plus the graduated filters can be used to get the gradient where you want
Thank you the comprehensive comparison of the two systems. I also have both types of systems but prefer the screw in style because of the portability. I have step up rings so I can use one filter size for all of the lenses that "I" use.
I started with a cheap 100x100mm filter system, then after a manufacturing defect assisted in the whole thing popping off my lens first time I used it I bought into a Haida m10 system... Now I just use the CPL, ND, and night time filter. I was for a while using the grad filters, but living in the mountains where I most often shoot, it creates serious problems that you cannot fix in post. Exposure blending is my friend now! Just as an aside, I have that same lens with no filter threads the 8-16 2.8, great lens I've been eyeballing a few filter solutions for it.
I made the switch to circular - from Lee to Kase. A number of reasons about weight and size. But also a few other things…… I didn’t like using the holder system and changing filters whenever I was around water/rocks. I always felt there was a risk of the holder coming off or my set up toppling forward. And secondly I can mostly use my lens hoods with the circular filters. Might be a Kase thing. Don’t know. But it helps to keep the filters dry and reduce wiping. And if I do need to wipe it just the filter and not the lens itself. Whereas with the Lee square/rectangular system I’d get drops on the front of the polariser, drops on the filters and drops on the lens itself. I find the Kase magnetic circular set up very handy - I don’t use the default lens caps any more. Each lens has the magnetic adapter ring fitted, to which the Kase magnetic cap locks on nicely. And then just a case of popping on filters as and when required. A slight downside is that the magnets are strong. Good for keeping them on but difficult to remove one from a stack. I do have a circular screw on (magnetic) grad. Not suitable for many scenes but helps to keep sky detail on most. And i tend to bracket anyway these days for most shots that don’t have moving subjects
Biggest plus for Kase Wolverine Magnetic system ... you will actually use them because they are compact/easy to carry and very quick to adjust/stack. You can buy the largest base size (82mm) and adapt them to smaller lenses as necessary.
I use a step up ring for round screw on filters. That way my two lenses, 77mm & 82mm diameter can use one filter size. Another advantage is the larger filter on the smaller lens doesn’t look through the edge of the filter . 👍
Started with circular screw-on, then moved to square drop-in. Pros and cons of each as you stated then led me to the Kase Wolverine magnetic system. Sized for the largest lens opening, with step up rings for other lenses. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. Optics (including minimal color shift) are wonderful with this system, and filters are very durable. Still use the square drop-in on occasion for specific situations. Nice to have options though. Most used: circular polarizer and 6-stop ND. Might be worth noting that some lenses have the ability to drop small filters into the rear of the lens - especially very wide angle lenses. Not always obvious, but might be worth checking your specific lenses.
I really don't understand these giants of photography companies doesn't have a work around to electronic ND filters through the camera. I think you know what I mean... All these would be unnecessary. I think would solve all these problems and would be a game changer in the field of landscape photography. By the way this is a nice video to start thinking about what your needs are.
I have recently bought into a circular magnetic filter system after using both square & screw on types ............ the magnetic solution offers more advantages with regards to changing filters / ease of use and also weight ............. 👍
Hi Mark, Nisi do make a graduated filter in circular but I agree that it's better to use the square because you can actually move the filter up and down to get the exact spot that you want to get. That's why I'm kind of torn like you I've actually just progressed to the GFX camera as well. The 50 S2 which I really love and I'm about to buy the 20 to 35 hence why I'm watching this video and I've always been a bit torn about which one for awhile I used circular and now I've gone to square I'm still not sure which one is the best, but I do know that they make a graduated filter in circular.
A couple of shortcomings with the screw type is the need to own a filter for every size lens or use step up rings which can be a nightmare. The other is trying to use a CPL with ND filter.
For me personally, the use of filters depends on the landscape I'm shooting in. For mountains or woods there is no need to carry a square filter system with me. It's a personal taste but I don't like to have a GND filter covering and darkening parts of a mountain or tree (mostly an exposure bracketing will do the job). I use a 95mm magnetic circular filter kit with step-down rings for various lenses (with the larger filters I avoid additional vignettes on some lenses). There are several brands out there offering really high quality magnetic circular filters like Haida, H&Y, Freewell, Kase or Breakthrough. When I'm shooting at a larger lake or the sea I use a square filter system with GND filters.
Thanks for sharing...Also when you purchase a lens the retailer usually recommends a screw on UV filter to protect the lens glass...I leave a UV filter on my lenses all the time so I only need to change them as required...I am only a hobbyist so I don't have expensive filters .... cheers 😀
Just too late for me Mark, I just bought a set of the Kase Wolverine magnetic circular filters (CPL, ND8, ND64 & ND1000)...😃. These plus 72mm & 77mm step up rings definitely make up for some of the limitations of circular filters. I originally had the rectangular/square filters but found them bulky, a bit of a faff to use and bit harder to keep clean. I got rid of them and went to all screw-in filters (I don't use soft grads as rarely do I have a straight horizon in my scenes). The main thing with these was that over time I got fed up again with the time it took to change from one filter to another and there was more cross threading than I liked plus too often if I stacked them they would be difficult to take one off (I think brass may be better but didn't find many of those). The magnetic circular systems make putting on/taking off filters and stacking them very easy. The other main advantage with circular filters is that if you don't need to use a step-up ring then the lens hood can be attached which you can never do with the square/rectangular system. Obviously I can't do this when I use it on my 77/72mm lenses with the step-up ringsI have only used the new Kase filters once but I did notice when I had both a CPL & ND filter stacked on my 15-35mm lens when it was at 15mm I had quite bad vignetting and had to go in a bit. Oh, the other advantage with screw-in filters is that you can often leave them on your lenses when in your camera bag which is useful if you are using them a lot that day. When I had the square/rectangular system could not do that.
I stopped using graduated filters when I went to the Nikon z7II as the dynamic range of the camera is amazing. Once you have added a graduated filter in the field then you have altered the image & if you get it wrong it may ruin the image for ever or be a lot of work in post production. I use Kase circular pro system. Small light & takes up very little room in your bag. I used to use Lee resin filters, but they scratch if you sneeze, a pain to clean & not practical in the rain. I would rather Bracket & exposure blend in post if needed.
Hello from Kyiv Ukraine. I use the Freewell magnetic system which are very thin so no or almost no vignetting but I bought my kit to fit my largest lens which is 82mm. Using step rings they fit any of my 17 lenses. This also means that I do not suffer with vignetting on my wider lenses because the filter covers the lens and beyond.
After all the hassle with this filters.. slide up down no corner protection need two hands etc. I changed to Wine Country filter system. I use the 100mm & the 150 mm filter system. Easy to use, fast in..... up and down, glass protection is great no fingerprints anymore on the glass. You do it with two fingers ! Filter cannot fall down and ending on the floor. Now the price came down a lot. Haida filters fit in the fault, too. Can save you some money. Highest quality you can find on the market. Now they have a new design. Perfect.
As Per Einar mentioned, bracketting is a good solution, i believe the only effect post cannot reproduce is polorizing? So, the only main filter you need, besides ND. Nisi system £300+ this side the pond, can buy some half decent glass for that for M4/3. Thank you Mark, good V,log.
Great video as usual. Btw, instead of using that beautiful canon lens as a “decorative “ piece, you could send it to me and I promise to give it a good home. 😂
The first filters I bought was a set of 3 that had a 3 stop nd, a polarizer and a UV filter. It was a screw on set and I never used the UV filter. Then I bought a cheap filter holder system off Amazon. I paid $100 for it. It was junk. Some of the filters had a warm magenta color cast and some had a greenish-bluish tint. The stronger the filter the worse the color cast was. It was so bad that I couldn't correct it. Then I researched many different brands for a good set. I ended up getting a landscape set from Formatt Hi-tech. I bought the firecrest filters. They do not hate a color cast. This is what I was looking for. I bought the one that came with a 6 stop nd, 2 still medium grad and a 2 stop hard reverse grad and a polarizer that screws into the adapter ring. It came with 4 different size rings but I had to order one for 82mm threads. I also purchased the 10 stop to go with the set. I might have spent $600 for the whole set. It's been a great set so far. I rarely use either of the grad filters since I started bracketing my shots and blending the exposures. The saying "you get what you pay for" is definitely true when it comes to filters to some extent. I may buy a 3 stop nd at some point. Right now I'm needing a new tripod and head. I'm looking at the Colorado Aspen head but I'm looking at Benro for a tripod.
Square system (Lee SW150) because it's the only thing that fits on my ultrawide lens (Rokinon 14mm) and there adapters if I want to use it on other lenses. I leave the adapter attached so setting it up is just putting the holder on and sliding in the filter; just takes a few seconds. The resin filters are good quality and much less likely to break than the glass ones.
One major issue I have with circular filters: When I'm doing really long exposures, usually of day time waterscapes, I need to use a very dark filter. So I'll set the focus, and then attempt to screw on the filter without messing up the focus. I've thought about switching to squares, because it looks like it eliminates that concern - but I'm not entirely sure. Open to comments and suggestions.
I use circular filter if using a polarizer only. Otherwise, I use rectangular Wine Country Camera filters, mainly because they have a frame that each filter sits in, so much better when it comes to protecting them, eliminating fingerprints, etc. Check them out . . . .I love them!
Hey Mark nice topic and video, on the cost side with the circular you would need ie polarizers for each thread size of your lenses… and the NDs and so forth.. nevertheless circular are way faster… when I use the rectangular system it’s more like a craft and help me to think more my shot
N.D. and Polarising screw, grad slide. found I had to take off my protective lens cover (U.V.) when using slide on my 12-24 Nikon as it caused vignette. Good to hear someone give a unbiased opinion on the pro's and con's of both systems. Thanks.
Great Video Mark.... I use both for different situations...I use breakthrough photography filter system magnetic filter system... I use big stopper and little stopper ... I love to do long exposure black and white images sometimes using 15 stop filter... the round and square filters both have different advantages. Lately I have been using graduated filters for Seascapes... Always Great to see your Videos Mark !
Thanks good comparison. I use circular screw in CPL and ND 6 and 10. If I used Grad filters I think I may have gone with the square system but I tend to bracket.
I first used the NISI V5 square/rectangular filter system but switched to Kase magnetic circular filters as I found the NISI system too much of a fuss. I don't see a need for graduated filters as I can apply grad filter effects in post and therefore can use round filters no problem. Cheers.
I use circular filters only. And actually have one set for the biggest diameter and then use step up filters to adapt to my smaller diameter objective lenses. Works like a charm for me. But I guess that’s personal preference.
The biggest con for me in regards to circular filters is that it is close to impossible to use CPL and ND-filters at the same time. One thing is vignetting (when stacking more filters) and it is practically impossible to do without rotating the CPL filter and thus changing the polarization. I use square filters from NiSi on my main wide-angle lens for landscape photography and often have a CPL on my 70-200, as I very rarely need to use a ND filter with that lense 👍
The main problem with circular GND's is that you can't position the transition zone exactly where you would like it in the frame . Many people bracket instead of using GND's these days, but if you are also using an ND and taking a long exposure, conditions can change a lot between your bracketed shots.
I've always used circular filters. My main problem was the heavy vignette when shooting with wide focal lengths (16 or 14 mm). So I decided to switch to a slide system and I am very happy with the results. The cons for me are that I have now more equipment to carry around.
@@alexven92 it depends on the density of the filter. With an ND1000, for example, I find it very difficult to fix in post. whereas with an ND2 or ND4 it is relatively easier.
I think that every piece of glas that you put in front of your lens can reduce the quality of your image, so i try not to use filters but some situatins you cant do a shot without them. I personaly only use circular filters, but i consider to buy that nisi system you did a video about some time ago.
I use Kase magnetic filters, with adapters. I have one set, and 3 different adapters for my 3 main lenses. They are stackable, too. The only thing I see squares have over the round ones are graduated filters.
Kase do a Wolverine series of round magnetic filters that work with adapter rings. So I have one set of filters with an adapter ring for each lens of differing filter size. As the filters are matched to my widest angle lens at 82mm I get no vignetting on any of my lenses. My whole filter kit of polariser and NDs plus adapters all fit in a small pocket sized pouch ( I normally leave the adapter rings on the lenses). Great video as usual Mark.
Great subject and video Mark, I am currently using the Kase magnetic system with my Z 14-24 that requires 112 mm. The ND 6 is my most used. The magnetic system has certainly sped up application/use. I’m not noting any issues with vignetting.
Advantage vs. disadvantage of using grad filter over exposure bracketing and combine in post? I use the NISI system also and use the polarizer pretty often when I remember to grab it. The NISI system is more versatile using adapter rings and the ability to stack filters like a grad and nd for long exposure with a bright sky.
ND grads cope better with anything moving in the grad transition area like clouds, water or windblown vegetation. They work best with straight horizons. Exposure blends are good for irregular horizons but can be awkward if there's movement in the transition zone. YMMV of course.
The big advatage of squar or regtangular is the very easable removing filterholder. Specially if the settings need to be changed, for example wit long exposure photography. Screw on filters is, for that purpose useles. Vingetting is also an big issue to me!
Used circular filters for years and tried different brands cheap and expensive. And then I tried PolarPro Summit system I’m never going back to circular filters again . The only bad part is that polar pro carrying cases are huge. Found work around by using Lee system 100 x 100 carrying case.
I started with some of the Hoya round filters but upgraded to LEE filters and then to the LEE 100 filter system. It uses a 105mm CP filter that attaches to the front of the filter holder, no Vignetting! In 15 years I have only ever broken one grad filter after the whole camera and tripod was blown over :( .... Otherwise the system has served me well. A good balanced review Mark.
CPL and ND 6 Stops are my most used filter. I have the complete set of soft graduate filters and I don't use them anymore 🤷🏻♂️ Love the square filter system but the adapter rings are a pain, after some years it's very difficult to screw them on the lens (I have to change between 67mm and 77mm). This makes me crazy when I am in a hurry 😅
Hello Mark, what major elements you consider when you're looking to buy filters (screw and square) ? I would like to invest into filters but I have few struggles to buy the "best" filters for me.
Yes... The vignette is a bit bothersome. But, as you mentioned, for the price of a plate setup I can buy a new lens 😆😆 I'm still debating leaving Nikon, so my round Gobe filters will have to do for now. I like using an ND8 during well lit situations. Seems to help add some color depth back into the image, especially blue sky after golden hour.
A good circular polarizer and Kase in body NDs work a treat, I honestly don't know why more people don't utilise the system, it's affordable and brilliant.
QUESTION: What’s your most used filter?
Kase CPL.
I use square ND so I can reuse them on multiple lenses. If I ever find a lens hood that can attach to a step-up ring, I'd totally go that route.
Direct reply to this question: circular polariser
Kase Magnetic filters. So simple and quick to use.
CPL
The circular polarizer & square ND filters.
One of things that I appreciate the most about you as a CZcamsr is that you approach every topic from a personal experiential perspective rather than making absolute statements. Too many photography CZcamsrs make matter-of-fact statements that disregard personal preference or use case variation.
My reason for using rectangular filters is that I can slide the graduation zone up or down to match the horizon/sky. Round grads always have the grad zone in the center, where I rarely put my horizon.
but if the horizon is not a straight line (like a mountain) gnd filters are useless
@@MrClaudioAgostini Depends on the circumstance. No tool is useful in every situation, but sliding filters offer more options than fixed circular gnd filters.
@@MrClaudioAgostini They are not useless when the mountains are snowy (which is often in my case). Snow reflects all the sun and easily gets blown out. So gnd filter can block out excessive light coming from sky, clouds and snowy mountains and protect the highlights there. While keeping the vegetation & shadowy areas on the ground also well exposed.
Thanks for the post, Mark. As a side note regarding the vignetting on round filters, I recently made a slight adaptation by purchasing a set of round 67mm ND filters for my largest diameter lens and adding step up adapters to my 52mm diameter lenses. That allows the filters to extend further out and helps eliminate the vignette issue.
@@jeffb1886 I think the next most common sizes would be 77mm and 82mm. I'm not sure if there's much commonly available beyond those. The amount of relief will depend greatly on the focal length of the lens in question. It really only impacts wider lenses, so at that diameter it may or may not make a significant difference if it's a wide angle lens. Either way you'd probably want to try the larger option if giving it a go.
@@jeffb1886 Sure thing! FWIW, I did may POC with a fairly inexpensive ($22) set of NDs from Amazon. I was able to stack a couple, but started seeing a slight vignette at 18-20mm after that. Having confirmed the concept, I'll probably invest in a thinner set - if I can find them - to allow for more stacking options.
@@WLynnSargent My largest adapter ring is 95mm for my Nikon 200-500 lens. I use it with the WineCountry Camera 150 System, which was purchased for my Nikon 14-24. Expensive compared to others but worth every penny to me because of the filter vaults. In this video , he slides the filter in with a bit of resistance which has to be there to keep the filter from falling out. With the WCC set up they slide in & out so easy you don’t have to worry about moving the camera at all. The only down side is the set-up is huge as far as packing for hiking goes. Grads & reverse grads are good for ocean photos with a straight horizon mostly only(even a soft grad) in my opinion. I believe Polar Pro came out with a filter vault system kit at a more reasonable price than WCC. And it has a sun hood also. That is one thing no mentions about using a largest filter for a smaller lens size is you can’t mount a lens hood on. I haven’t used my polarizer enough to tell if you would even need a hood. I read on manufactures web sites where they suggest shading the square filters & I’m guessing for possible light leaks or sun flare depending on the angle. No light leaks as of yet with the WCC system. Quality filters use Schott glass which made with a certain process. Anyway, happy shooting!
Edit, I do get vignetting at 16mm & below!
@@thomastuorto9929 Thanks for pointing that out! Guess I should have done a little more research, as I see that 95mm and 86mm are also fairly readily available. Thanks, too, for the recommendation on the WCC system. As a hobbyist, it is probably more than I would need, but always good to know the options that are out there. I will say that one thing I like about using the round oversized filters as I described is that it keeps them very close to the lens, which really minimizes the vignetting, even when stacking a pair of filters at 18mm.
Cheers!
Thought I would reply as some of this info is dated. So go up one filter size for your landscape lenses. This eliminates the vignetting effect with circular filters. And use magnetized circular filters, screw ones are right up there with a standard transmission vehicle. I can reach for my filter and it snaps on in less than a second. Almost same amount of time to take it off. Stacking magnetic 🧲 filters same deal.
My only filter is the magnetic KASE filter. It’s bigger than my largest lense and I’ve a adapter for each lense. I rearly make photos with straight horizons, so I’ve no use for graduated filters, and it’s easier to bracket the shot.
I stopped using graduated filters as well many years ago and never looked back
@Philip Butler I’m very happy with the system. I my lense with the bigest filtersize is 77mm and I have a 82mm polarizer with two 72-82mm adapters, a 77-82mm and 3 lense covers.
@Philip Butler polariser and ND for long exposure are the only filters I need
I wish it would be possible to just have a magnetic ring on each lens all the time and then use a magnetic step up ring to use a filter size that fits all lenses.
@@slaindevil it’s possible with KASE magnetic filters. Just get filters that’s bigger than your biggest lense and get a ring for each lense. I have a polarizer of 82mm and my biggest lense is 77mm, the rest is 72mm. They also have magnetic lense caps, so it’s no need for unthread the adapter rings to fit a cap😉
I use 82mm screw-on filters on my lenses (77mm and smaller) using a step-up ring. Eliminates the vignette issue.
I only regularly use two filters, polariser for daylight and light pollution filter for the obvious night shots. So those would have to be my favourite two
Step up ring, adapter ring, or "thingy" - it all works....appreciate the video, thanks. I use the Kase magnetic filter system and love it. I've not seen any vignetting yet with the circular type, and I like the fact that they are stackable where I could use a polarizer and an ND on it and they hold very tight. No light leakage either. They have a small case and after the first investment for the full set, you just get step up rings. Largest lens is 82mm so I got a step up ring for the other two. My most used is the polarizer by far.
I now use both the McKinnon PolarPro and NISI variable ND and variable ND/CPL combo circular filters. I still have and use my NISI squares for 6, 10 and 15 stop ND with the built-in CPL for lenses wider than 28mm. I can even say the threaded screw-on circ filters work on my 28mm prime with no vignetting. The variable ND's are great for waterfalls such that you can change the shutter speed by simply adjusting the variable ND filter attached to the lens without changing out a square filter or changing your F-stop on your camera. I have been a long time square filter user using both Lee and NISI products but have converted to the high quality of the newer circular variables. Just a personal preference as either work well. TIP- if you use step up rings Breakthrough Photography make the best for easy on and off even while wearing gloves.
Just bought a set of Freewell magnetic filters and I love them. I had previously bought a decent Japanese screw on filter and after a couple of uses, I was already tired of screw on filters.
In addition: the new magnetic circular filters are a bit better when it comes to vignetting, I've found. Plus you can stack filters beyond what you could with ordinary screw circulars.
I got a set of magnetic circular filters last year because I wanted to eliminate as much fiddling with equipment as possible when shooting. They are extremely convenient and as you pointed out vignetting is not an issue even when I stack a couple of them because they are thinner than screw-on filters.
I use the Kase magnetic filter system which I find suits my needs. The big pro is they are easy to use, however they can be a bit fiddly if you need to separate two filters on camera.
I have used both screw on and square/rectangle filters. I am in the process of switching to magnetic filters. Most of my landscape lenses have a 77mm screw on size. All of my filters are 82mm. With the step up ring, I am able to avoid most vignetting issues. The magnetic filters are easy to stack. They are colored coded (CPL is blue, ND filters are different colors) so you don't have to read the small print in the field to know which filter is which.
I have only used circular filters to date. I like to keep a clear filter on the front because I spend a lot of time in rough environments and it’s cheaper to replace even a $100-$150 filter than the front element of an expensive lens. In addition, I can leave a CPL on all day and cover it with the lens cap when the environment gets brushy, dusty or wet.
I’ve got both but use the square Lee system for the ease of combining polarisor and ND/grad. Also try screw-on filters with cold fingers. I ain’t that easy.
Good info, Mark. I'm currently using both types as you are, but both are a challenge to use in colder weather when your hands are cold. Square filters are difficult to slide in and screw-in filters are a challenge to align with lens threads. Both are also susceptible to moving your camera setup if you are doing multiple exposures with and without filters. Many landscape photographers are now migrating to magnetic filters (Kase), which seem to alleviate application while in the field. If I were starting from scratch, I would invest in the magnetics.
Oh for sure - cold hands seems to make everything difficult!
One issue I haven't seen touched on here and the reason I moved from circular to slide in square filters is having to refocus when you recompose a scene.
If you have a very dark filter on like a 10stop or more it's a real pain having to unscrew them every time you recompose and need to focus again.
With the slide in filters you can just slide it up, focus, then slide back in front. Much quicker.
I've got Gobe 3,6, and 10stop 100mm square system. Very happy with them.
Everybody has their preference, but I like the Haida M10 system. I have tried multiple others. Main thing is not to short change your size; go as large as you can which benefits future lens which usually become larger as you buy more pro gear and helps with vignetting.
What is nice about Haida M10 is it fast, secure, and convenient. It uses adapter rings and a very clever spring loaded clamp to attach. The best part is that they have drop in filters that allow creatively switching filters or stacking filters easy. Their CPL filters have a wonderful rotating wheel to set the polarizer which is important if you have a grad that must be oriented a certain way with the main filter holder. The cons are that if you already own filters it may feel cost prohibitive to but not the whole ecosystem or especially if you have certain favorites. You must also be careful with attaching the holder as it is easy to miss the adapter ring but this is true with many systems. Another thing I like is that the holder comes with a blank drop in to seal the slot from light bleed. Overall a well made and efficient system.
Adaptor rings also work on round filters. All my common fuji lenses are adapted to 67mm so all take same lense cap and round filters
As a mirrorless user, I've grown fond of the clip-in filters which sit between the lens and sensor. Obviously, that won't work for a polarizer, but I have a 6 stop ND and a 10 stop ND, and they work wonderfully, allowing the use of any lens. This, of course, would be impractical with a DSLR, but the "wysiwyg" nature of mirrorless viewfinders allows one to see through even a 10 stop ND filter while composing.
great video! Performance wise I don't think there is much if any difference. I changed to Cokin P series many years ago, to save weight not only do I work with different lenses with bezels from 32 mm to 78mm. I also work across different formats including film. Mostly 6x6 and larger both in the field and studio, The main advantage is 6 adapters are lighter, cheaper, and faster than 6 sets of circulars especially with TLR's lacking a screw on the lens bezel ( had to make a special bracket for the tripod bush)
The only difficulty I've had with "squares" is with graduated filters when using them horizontally, but Cokin adapters allow you to twist the the holder and cover an area at the side if its over bright for digital. I've never noticed a problem with light by pass (leak) or flare, even when stacking over a Polariser.
Very informative as ever Mark, thanks for sharing. I use circular filters, but did have one problem where a polariser got stuck on the lens threads, so that took a bit of resolving. Note to self: BE CAREFUL! .. I also use a UV filter most of the time, not for the filter effect, but just to keep the lens clean .. and hopefully it'll take one for the team if called upon!
Thanks, Mark. I recently sold my square filter kit and went magnetic with the Freewell system. It’s sooo much easier. I don’t use grads anymore, preferring to bracket and edit instead, so all I need is ND & polariser. 🦘🇦🇺👍
I have the Kase Magnetic Circular filterset. I got a polarizer, a nd8, a nd64 and a nd1000. It comes in a little pouch of +- 10x10cm. It takes very little space in my bag. They're very sturdy and have no colourcast like the Lee filters have. I use step up rings so I only have to get on set of filters. The filters can be stacked, so it's possible to use both the polarizer and the nd filter at the same time. I find it all together a really good and easy to use system. If there is a scene with a high dynamic range I just simply use bracketing while shooting and the graduated filter in editing. I understand that people want to have it done in one shot and use a graduated filter at location, but for me the extra costs and weight makes me prefer the system that I have.
I use a Kase magnetic round filter system, very small package, use it in 82mm with magnetic stepup-rings, so it fits to any of my lenses without any vignetting (I can use 3 filters together without vignetting in my lenses with 67mm filter threat). No need for graduatet filter, normally 15 stops dynamic range is plenty enough, if not I take two or three pictures and stack it. This is so easy and comfortable to use, I love it every time I use it.
Thanks for the video Mark I sold my Nisi 100mm grad / ND filters as I found them to bulky to carry around . Most or the time I left them at home, Nisi make fantastic gear so I bought 82mm ND and polariser Nisi filters they fit easily into my bag so they come with me everywhere. They are true to colour and because I bought 82mm with my largest lens being 77mm I don’t find Vignetting to be a problem. I have found luminosity masking removes the need for graduate filters. Screw on filters work for me but to each their own.
I have drawers full of varying sizes of circular filters and finally bought a NiSi square kit. It is nice to have one kit for all of my lenses. I made a home for the kit in my bag and now always have my filters with me.
I'm the same way - got loads of different filters!
Timely video, as I am close to buying my first filter system. I've had CPL's for each of my lenses up to now, plus a circular GND and ND for one lens. Now I want a system that can work on all my lenses. I am leaning toward the Kase magnetic.
Glad to hear it was helpful Stephen!
Here’s my summery of the pro’s and con’s: A circular filter is the only option if we want to have a lens hood on as well. That combination also works as a very convincing protection of the front element of the lens if we are banging around in difficult terrain, difficult weather conditions and such. Also, with a screw-on filter nothing is protruding outside the perimeters of the lens and thus cannot hook on accidentally to anything if we’re moving trough some dense scrubs for instance. Threaded circular filters can be a bit “fiddley” to handle, especially in cold conditions.
Square or rectangular filters are great for providing a full set of all the different types of filters that we like to use to fit all our different lenses with just a step-up ring to accommodate for the various differences in diameter. They also work well for stacking several together. And, as you pointed out, they are the only option for some of the more “esoteric” type of lenses on the market that doesn’t have a thread at the front at all. Also, these systems often provide a very useful wheel on the side to facilitate the rotation of a polarization filter. But a system of this kind usually comes with a higher price tag though.
I have seen that Kase got a magnetic system of circular filters that can be combined with “step-down” rings, so you just get the filter for the lens with the greatest diameter and then you use it together with “step-down” rings on all of your other lenses. I haven’t tried it myself, so I don’t know how well it works in real life? But I like the concept except it doesn’t provide for an adjustable horizon on graduated ND filter of course.
Free Tibet. Real bad. You just don't move through the maquis jungle with expensive filters in the filter holder. I can do without polarisation.
@@Foxglove963 Yup! I think I stick to screw-on’s for that exact reason myself!
To combat vignetting on screw on you could use step up rings and use a seize that is larger then your biggest tread, it also means you don’t have to own a set for every lens.
There is also possible to use rear filters like the ones Kase make, but it’s mostly something you probably use if you know exactly what to shoot prior it also protect the sensor from sensor dust.
I prefer rectangle/square filters cause I find them easier to change on the fly plus the graduated filters can be used to get the gradient where you want
Thank you the comprehensive comparison of the two systems. I also have both types of systems but prefer the screw in style because of the portability. I have step up rings so I can use one filter size for all of the lenses that "I" use.
I started with a cheap 100x100mm filter system, then after a manufacturing defect assisted in the whole thing popping off my lens first time I used it I bought into a Haida m10 system... Now I just use the CPL, ND, and night time filter. I was for a while using the grad filters, but living in the mountains where I most often shoot, it creates serious problems that you cannot fix in post. Exposure blending is my friend now! Just as an aside, I have that same lens with no filter threads the 8-16 2.8, great lens I've been eyeballing a few filter solutions for it.
I made the switch to circular - from Lee to Kase. A number of reasons about weight and size. But also a few other things…… I didn’t like using the holder system and changing filters whenever I was around water/rocks. I always felt there was a risk of the holder coming off or my set up toppling forward. And secondly I can mostly use my lens hoods with the circular filters. Might be a Kase thing. Don’t know. But it helps to keep the filters dry and reduce wiping. And if I do need to wipe it just the filter and not the lens itself. Whereas with the Lee square/rectangular system I’d get drops on the front of the polariser, drops on the filters and drops on the lens itself. I find the Kase magnetic circular set up very handy - I don’t use the default lens caps any more. Each lens has the magnetic adapter ring fitted, to which the Kase magnetic cap locks on nicely. And then just a case of popping on filters as and when required. A slight downside is that the magnets are strong. Good for keeping them on but difficult to remove one from a stack.
I do have a circular screw on (magnetic) grad. Not suitable for many scenes but helps to keep sky detail on most. And i tend to bracket anyway these days for most shots that don’t have moving subjects
Biggest plus for Kase Wolverine Magnetic system ... you will actually use them because they are compact/easy to carry and very quick to adjust/stack. You can buy the largest base size (82mm) and adapt them to smaller lenses as necessary.
You can use step-up rings for circular filters too, and it can cut down on vignetting!
I use a step up ring for round screw on filters. That way my two lenses, 77mm & 82mm diameter can use one filter size. Another advantage is the larger filter on the smaller lens doesn’t look through the edge of the filter . 👍
Circular polarizer, easy and quick, give me nice colours during day light landscape
Yep - that's my go to filter as well!
Started with circular screw-on, then moved to square drop-in. Pros and cons of each as you stated then led me to the Kase Wolverine magnetic system. Sized for the largest lens opening, with step up rings for other lenses. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. Optics (including minimal color shift) are wonderful with this system, and filters are very durable. Still use the square drop-in on occasion for specific situations. Nice to have options though. Most used: circular polarizer and 6-stop ND. Might be worth noting that some lenses have the ability to drop small filters into the rear of the lens - especially very wide angle lenses. Not always obvious, but might be worth checking your specific lenses.
Great advice Mark. I had square and circular screw on. Recently got myaelf some Kase magnetic circular filters and absolutely love them.
I really don't understand these giants of photography companies doesn't have a work around to electronic ND filters through the camera. I think you know what I mean...
All these would be unnecessary.
I think would solve all these problems and would be a game changer in the field of landscape photography.
By the way this is a nice video to start thinking about what your needs are.
Step up rings will help with that vingnett- get the filter in a larger size that your lens. It’s not 100% fix but it helps. Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have recently bought into a circular magnetic filter system after using both square & screw on types ............ the magnetic solution offers more advantages with regards to changing filters / ease of use and also weight ............. 👍
LOVE the Dunder Mifflin business cards? in the back! :) It's all in the details!
🤣🤣
Hi Mark, Nisi do make a graduated filter in circular but I agree that it's better to use the square because you can actually move the filter up and down to get the exact spot that you want to get. That's why I'm kind of torn like you I've actually just progressed to the GFX camera as well. The 50 S2 which I really love and I'm about to buy the 20 to 35 hence why I'm watching this video and I've always been a bit torn about which one for awhile I used circular and now I've gone to square I'm still not sure which one is the best, but I do know that they make a graduated filter in circular.
Use both, depending on the shoot, most Nikon lenses are 77mm so we keep with Nikon polarising circulars that will fit between them.
A couple of shortcomings with the screw type is the need to own a filter for every size lens or use step up rings which can be a nightmare. The other is trying to use a CPL with ND filter.
For me personally, the use of filters depends on the landscape I'm shooting in. For mountains or woods there is no need to carry a square filter system with me. It's a personal taste but I don't like to have a GND filter covering and darkening parts of a mountain or tree (mostly an exposure bracketing will do the job). I use a 95mm magnetic circular filter kit with step-down rings for various lenses (with the larger filters I avoid additional vignettes on some lenses). There are several brands out there offering really high quality magnetic circular filters like Haida, H&Y, Freewell, Kase or Breakthrough. When I'm shooting at a larger lake or the sea I use a square filter system with GND filters.
Love the random items on your desk. Rubiks cube earlier, GameBoy this video! Wonder what’s next! Matchbox car, action figures?
Thanks for sharing...Also when you purchase a lens the retailer usually recommends a screw on UV filter to protect the lens glass...I leave a UV filter on my lenses all the time so I only need to change them as required...I am only a hobbyist so I don't have expensive filters .... cheers 😀
I'm using the Sirui rectangular filter system.
Just too late for me Mark, I just bought a set of the Kase Wolverine magnetic circular filters (CPL, ND8, ND64 & ND1000)...😃. These plus 72mm & 77mm step up rings definitely make up for some of the limitations of circular filters. I originally had the rectangular/square filters but found them bulky, a bit of a faff to use and bit harder to keep clean. I got rid of them and went to all screw-in filters (I don't use soft grads as rarely do I have a straight horizon in my scenes). The main thing with these was that over time I got fed up again with the time it took to change from one filter to another and there was more cross threading than I liked plus too often if I stacked them they would be difficult to take one off (I think brass may be better but didn't find many of those). The magnetic circular systems make putting on/taking off filters and stacking them very easy. The other main advantage with circular filters is that if you don't need to use a step-up ring then the lens hood can be attached which you can never do with the square/rectangular system. Obviously I can't do this when I use it on my 77/72mm lenses with the step-up ringsI have only used the new Kase filters once but I did notice when I had both a CPL & ND filter stacked on my 15-35mm lens when it was at 15mm I had quite bad vignetting and had to go in a bit. Oh, the other advantage with screw-in filters is that you can often leave them on your lenses when in your camera bag which is useful if you are using them a lot that day. When I had the square/rectangular system could not do that.
I stopped using graduated filters when I went to the Nikon z7II as the dynamic range of the camera is amazing. Once you have added a graduated filter in the field then you have altered the image & if you get it wrong it may ruin the image for ever or be a lot of work in post production. I use Kase circular pro system. Small light & takes up very little room in your bag. I used to use Lee resin filters, but they scratch if you sneeze, a pain to clean & not practical in the rain. I would rather Bracket & exposure blend in post if needed.
Step up rings adapt from one thread diameter to a larger thread diameter to allow a 77mm filter to be used on a 67mm lens for instance....
I don't have any filters. I used to have a couple for my SLR, a red one, a warming one, one that made light bursts and I think a polarizer.
Very interesting! I didn't even know about other types of filters besides circular ones. I only use protective filters and one polarizing filter.
Hello from Kyiv Ukraine. I use the Freewell magnetic system which are very thin so no or almost no vignetting but I bought my kit to fit my largest lens which is 82mm. Using step rings they fit any of my 17 lenses. This also means that I do not suffer with vignetting on my wider lenses because the filter covers the lens and beyond.
After all the hassle with this filters.. slide up down no corner protection need two hands etc. I changed to Wine Country filter system. I use the 100mm & the 150 mm filter system. Easy to use, fast in..... up and down, glass protection is great no fingerprints anymore on the glass. You do it with two fingers ! Filter cannot fall down and ending on the floor. Now the price came down a lot. Haida filters fit in the fault, too. Can save you some money. Highest quality you can find on the market. Now they have a new design. Perfect.
As Per Einar mentioned, bracketting is a good solution, i believe the only effect post cannot reproduce is polorizing? So, the only main filter you need, besides ND. Nisi system £300+ this side the pond, can buy some half decent glass for that for M4/3. Thank you Mark, good V,log.
Great video as usual. Btw, instead of using that beautiful canon lens as a “decorative “ piece, you could send it to me and I promise to give it a good home. 😂
Hahahh - it's actually a coffee mug:)
Circular combo and nd filter. Coloration can be fixed in post such as darker skies in one corner vs the other.
The first filters I bought was a set of 3 that had a 3 stop nd, a polarizer and a UV filter. It was a screw on set and I never used the UV filter. Then I bought a cheap filter holder system off Amazon. I paid $100 for it. It was junk. Some of the filters had a warm magenta color cast and some had a greenish-bluish tint. The stronger the filter the worse the color cast was. It was so bad that I couldn't correct it. Then I researched many different brands for a good set. I ended up getting a landscape set from Formatt Hi-tech. I bought the firecrest filters. They do not hate a color cast. This is what I was looking for. I bought the one that came with a 6 stop nd, 2 still medium grad and a 2 stop hard reverse grad and a polarizer that screws into the adapter ring. It came with 4 different size rings but I had to order one for 82mm threads. I also purchased the 10 stop to go with the set. I might have spent $600 for the whole set. It's been a great set so far. I rarely use either of the grad filters since I started bracketing my shots and blending the exposures. The saying "you get what you pay for" is definitely true when it comes to filters to some extent. I may buy a 3 stop nd at some point. Right now I'm needing a new tripod and head. I'm looking at the Colorado Aspen head but I'm looking at Benro for a tripod.
Square system (Lee SW150) because it's the only thing that fits on my ultrawide lens (Rokinon 14mm) and there adapters if I want to use it on other lenses. I leave the adapter attached so setting it up is just putting the holder on and sliding in the filter; just takes a few seconds. The resin filters are good quality and much less likely to break than the glass ones.
I use Hoya Solas ND round filters, and they are threaded on both sides, so they can easily be stacked.
One major issue I have with circular filters: When I'm doing really long exposures, usually of day time waterscapes, I need to use a very dark filter. So I'll set the focus, and then attempt to screw on the filter without messing up the focus. I've thought about switching to squares, because it looks like it eliminates that concern - but I'm not entirely sure. Open to comments and suggestions.
I use circular filter if using a polarizer only. Otherwise, I use rectangular Wine Country Camera filters, mainly because they have a frame that each filter sits in, so much better when it comes to protecting them, eliminating fingerprints, etc. Check them out . . . .I love them!
Hey Mark nice topic and video, on the cost side with the circular you would need ie polarizers for each thread size of your lenses… and the NDs and so forth.. nevertheless circular are way faster… when I use the rectangular system it’s more like a craft and help me to think more my shot
N.D. and Polarising screw, grad slide. found I had to take off my protective lens cover (U.V.) when using slide on my 12-24 Nikon as it caused vignette. Good to hear someone give a unbiased opinion on the pro's and con's of both systems. Thanks.
Thanks for checking out the video!
Great info, Mark! I have been using KASE magnetic filters. Easier to carry than my Lee filters.
Great Video Mark.... I use both for different situations...I use breakthrough photography filter system magnetic filter system... I use big stopper and little stopper ... I love to do long exposure black and white images sometimes using 15 stop filter... the round and square filters both have different advantages.
Lately I have been using graduated filters for Seascapes... Always Great to see your Videos Mark !
I appreciate that Bruce - thanks a million!
Thanks good comparison. I use circular screw in CPL and ND 6 and 10. If I used Grad filters I think I may have gone with the square system but I tend to bracket.
Glad to do it and thanks for checking out the video!
I first used the NISI V5 square/rectangular filter system but switched to Kase magnetic circular filters as I found the NISI system too much of a fuss. I don't see a need for graduated filters as I can apply grad filter effects in post and therefore can use round filters no problem. Cheers.
Great survey. Many thanks!
I use circular filters only. And actually have one set for the biggest diameter and then use step up filters to adapt to my smaller diameter objective lenses. Works like a charm for me. But I guess that’s personal preference.
The biggest con for me in regards to circular filters is that it is close to impossible to use CPL and ND-filters at the same time. One thing is vignetting (when stacking more filters) and it is practically impossible to do without rotating the CPL filter and thus changing the polarization.
I use square filters from NiSi on my main wide-angle lens for landscape photography and often have a CPL on my 70-200, as I very rarely need to use a ND filter with that lense 👍
The main problem with circular GND's is that you can't position the transition zone exactly where you would like it in the frame . Many people bracket instead of using GND's these days, but if you are also using an ND and taking a long exposure, conditions can change a lot between your bracketed shots.
polar pro make square filters with protection around them, so what you say is may be true regarding lee filters, but there are other options!
The better one is always the one you don't have :-) Thinking of moving to the magnetic ones - they seems so much more convenient and compact!
I've always used circular filters. My main problem was the heavy vignette when shooting with wide focal lengths (16 or 14 mm). So I decided to switch to a slide system and I am very happy with the results. The cons for me are that I have now more equipment to carry around.
Is the vignetting something you can fix in post? Is it also really bad in the sense that the shadows can be clipped?
@@alexven92 it depends on the density of the filter. With an ND1000, for example, I find it very difficult to fix in post. whereas with an ND2 or ND4 it is relatively easier.
I think that every piece of glas that you put in front of your lens can reduce the quality of your image, so i try not to use filters but some situatins you cant do a shot without them. I personaly only use circular filters, but i consider to buy that nisi system you did a video about some time ago.
Thanks for the info. I'm new to all this and that was very helpful.
I use Kase magnetic filters, with adapters. I have one set, and 3 different adapters for my 3 main lenses. They are stackable, too. The only thing I see squares have over the round ones are graduated filters.
Kase do a Wolverine series of round magnetic filters that work with adapter rings. So I have one set of filters with an adapter ring for each lens of differing filter size. As the filters are matched to my widest angle lens at 82mm I get no vignetting on any of my lenses. My whole filter kit of polariser and NDs plus adapters all fit in a small pocket sized pouch ( I normally leave the adapter rings on the lenses). Great video as usual Mark.
Thanks a million Paul! Glad to hear you enjoyed it. I've tried the Wolverine Series as well - good stuff for sure!
Great subject and video Mark, I am currently using the Kase magnetic system with my Z 14-24 that requires 112 mm. The ND 6 is my most used. The magnetic system has certainly sped up application/use. I’m not noting any issues with vignetting.
Thanks so much Ron!
those filters can be used in Videocameras ? with both sistem ( video&photo)...
Advantage vs. disadvantage of using grad filter over exposure bracketing and combine in post? I use the NISI system also and use the polarizer pretty often when I remember to grab it. The NISI system is more versatile using adapter rings and the ability to stack filters like a grad and nd for long exposure with a bright sky.
ND grads cope better with anything moving in the grad transition area like clouds, water or windblown vegetation. They work best with straight horizons. Exposure blends are good for irregular horizons but can be awkward if there's movement in the transition zone. YMMV of course.
Great advice as always
Thanks Marc!
Thanks for this information about filter systems. Well done
Happy to do it Noel!
The big advatage of squar or regtangular is the very easable removing filterholder. Specially if the settings need to be changed, for example wit long exposure photography. Screw on filters is, for that purpose useles. Vingetting is also an big issue to me!
Used circular filters for years and tried different brands cheap and expensive.
And then I tried PolarPro Summit system I’m never going back to circular filters again .
The only bad part is that polar pro carrying cases are huge. Found work around by using Lee system 100 x 100 carrying case.
I started with some of the Hoya round filters but upgraded to LEE filters and then to the LEE 100 filter system. It uses a 105mm CP filter that attaches to the front of the filter holder, no Vignetting! In 15 years I have only ever broken one grad filter after the whole camera and tripod was blown over :( .... Otherwise the system has served me well. A good balanced review Mark.
Thanks a million Phil - glad you think so!
CPL and ND 6 Stops are my most used filter. I have the complete set of soft graduate filters and I don't use them anymore 🤷🏻♂️
Love the square filter system but the adapter rings are a pain, after some years it's very difficult to screw them on the lens (I have to change between 67mm and 77mm). This makes me crazy when I am in a hurry 😅
Hello Mark, what major elements you consider when you're looking to buy filters (screw and square) ? I would like to invest into filters but I have few struggles to buy the "best" filters for me.
I use circolar ND and polarized, whit step up adapter for my different lens
PolarPro square filters do have a metal band around them. They also come with a lifetime guarantee, should you break them or scratch them.
Yes... The vignette is a bit bothersome. But, as you mentioned, for the price of a plate setup I can buy a new lens 😆😆 I'm still debating leaving Nikon, so my round Gobe filters will have to do for now. I like using an ND8 during well lit situations. Seems to help add some color depth back into the image, especially blue sky after golden hour.
Hi, any suggestion about witch brand of round filters to buy? No to much expensive . Thanks
Can you pease share any thoughts on magnetically attached filters as both square and round are now available with this method of attaching. Thanks
A good circular polarizer and Kase in body NDs work a treat, I honestly don't know why more people don't utilise the system, it's affordable and brilliant.
What are Kase in body NDs?
Mark, if you haven't checked them out already, you should check out the magnetic systems from Freewell or Kase.