I laid out my plan on the site with sticks and rope. Part one went smoothly - only at the end did I have to solve the puzzle - for several weeks I walked through my imaginary vegetable garden with an empty wheelbarrow - until it felt right
Bonjour Mr Dowding sur le fait que vous mettez chaque année du compost gras en épaisseur ou en ramenant le long des pommes de terre pour voir le jour y a pas de risques pour la santé au niveau des nitrates comme j'ai pus lire sur un livre sur le compost et paillage de Denis Pépin ?
I bought a new house a few years ago and I decided to use an area of 20’ x 60’ for my garden so my kids and dogs still had enough room to run around in the backyard. It took me about a year before I decided on my bed width, path width, and which way to run my rows in my backyard. One day after a heavy rain I noticed water pooling where I wanted my garden so that’s when I decided I had to run my rows the same way where the water was draining which happened to be east to west. I really wanted the rows to be north and south but I’m glad I went with the direction where the water drained because not even a week after setting up the garden beds we had 5 inches of rain and it flooded the pathways and the water drained out down the street without washing out any of my garden beds.
Good morning, Charles, from Windermere, Florida zone 9b 50°F at 6a.m and expecting 70°F for a high. Great tourist weather 👌 Your advice is always appreciated ❤ Take care ❤Peggy❤
This popped up and saving for info needed for the big change. A week and a half of finding your channel and already set up a three stage compost system and half-filled one bay. Thanx Charles.
A timely post, Charles, thank you! Our raised bed project completed today in our garden using your measurements by and large. Reassuring we've got it right. Cannot wait to plant up!
Very useful advice. I have grass pathways wide enough for my tractor mower. Don’t make pathways so small that it is hard to wheel your wheelbarrow. Don’t make bed so wide that you cannot access the middle of the bed from either side. My two cents of advice!
Right on - and just to add, 12 inches/30 cm is wide enough for a wheelbarrow because you can put the legs on beds. There just needs to be room for a wheel and your two feet.
Regarding wider beds being more space efficient, I believe a compounding factor is that with narrower beds you might actually need wider paths, since everything growing in the narrower beds is closer to the edge and crowding the paths more. That was my experience anyway. Fantastic video, Charles ... Ive watched all 400+ of your videos and I think thats the 1st time I saw a tractor on your property 😂
I wished I had this detailed advise a few years ago, Sir Charles. So helpful! My no dig garden works overall really fine, but I can confirm what I would do better today as you mentioned: I have only 12.5 cm high wooden sides, but struggle to get my wheel barrow through the pathways. The property came with wonderful old trees and shrubs that I didn't want to touch as they are nice windbreaks. However, I cannot access my backyard with a trailer load of woodships or compost and that is a big limitation and extra work. Access is a key element. So yes, you better think twice before laying out your garden😊. In my next life perhaps, but I am aiming to be reborn as butterfly 😂, so might not plan a new garden then.
ALWAYS, have your beds going down hill. I bought 16 acres 2 years ago that is all on a gentle slope. I tend to close down my earthmoving business in 10 years & start a Home makers garden phase 2 😁 ill definitely be keeping my bobcat & excavator though, but sell my truck. Ive watched ALL your videos & check every day (sometimes twice) for new videos. Thats how much i love your content & advice Nice work govener. Gary, 7th generation first fleet convict from Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks, this might motivate me to rethink our plots this winter which have returned to grass after being neglected the last couple of years for various reasons - we had 6 rectangular plots but I think longer narrow ones might be a better bet 👍
Ive watched a lot of your videos and will be buying your books shortly, as I will have new land soon. I have implemented what I can where I currently am located with great results. Thank you for your wisdom, I trust your advice implicitly.
When it comes to problems with rain washing out the garden soil, I find that since I started no dig gardening I have had no problems with this even after some torrential rains on my slightly downhill slope. - This was a constant problem before I started no dig.
Good to hear Yvonne! I've had similar feedback after terrible flooding in Northwest Germany 2021, where a no dig garden was the only one left standing.
Bravo! Despite the wife's concern, I'm not worrying about one particularly Wide pathway with wood chips "wasting space". I have both a planned avenue for sunlight to critical areas and a place to locate/jostle some large fabric pots that have found a role in the garden seasonally. A wider than 'normally' reachable garden bed is also in the works for in-ground plants with places to step into, merely "firming the soil" not compacting. Mucho-thanks, Charles!
I have a slope I want to start using to grow things. So far I have filled it out, used it as sort of a waste area, and where I have harvested green things for my compost. In the spring I'll fill it further with manure and any material I can find. I plan to spend some time building soil since it's quite shallow soil with rocks under it. Shallow-rooted things will do fine after I build it up a little, I think. I use my own body and steps to get a feel for a space. I have made sure I can mow the lawn between my raised beds. I spend a lot of time planning and even taking pictures of the space so I can get a feel of it. It has really helped me. Going no dig and adapting to my microclimate has really helped me change how I garden.
Well this was great timing 😊 I put in 2 beds when we moved in here nearly 2yrs ago (2.75 acres so loads of space and loving it too by the way 😅) have no idea the size but will definitely be measuring them tomorrow. The beds aren't too wide that I cant reach the middle and I like the width of the path I can kneel and not dig my boots into the bed behind me but they're probably a bit long. I was under a bit of pressure when putting them in cause I had no idea what I wanted and hubby was helping to unload the trailer so I said that will do. Ive just put in a 3rd and hoping to have enough material to do another. Ive just got another load of compost to try and work out an area for watermelons (think I've got 30 to plant) unfortunately I dont have plastic this year but next year I will do what you have done with your pumpkin patch. Thank you eternally for your wisdom and knowledge, I am loving the no dig method which my husband and son dont understand. My son said he wants to till an area to grow stuff....😡 I growled at him 😄 cheers from Australia 🇦🇺 👍
I have tried different size paths and planting areas and realized 3 foot wide is perfect and I run the rows as long as I can-most 40 foot. I use reclaimed low boards to hold the soil in place and bark narrow rows (17 inches wide) as this allows enough room for a small wheelbarrow and keeping side boards low is helpful also. I run rows N-S and it allows the sun to hit all plants without concern for shading. Here in US farmland on hills are cultivated across the incline not up and down to prevent erosion. I think as we age with our gardens we need to keep in mind what is easy to maintain. Four foot wide is a huge stretch and even though our bed areas are mainly no till I still don’t step on them. Later if I decide the rows are too long I can always chop them in half. Now, the idea of garden cloths is a Real consideration! The coverings are in certain sizes and best to think about if you already have coverings. It can be difficult to support certain size covers. I know here I have to have that bug netting down Tight or those cabbage moths get in every time.🙄. I love how you store your covers just draping over 2x4. I fold and stuff totes to keep mice away, but hanging would be nice-just need to find room. Between shade, bug, frost and plastic coverings my shed is pretty full. I would love to not have to fold them and even better if the sizes were all the same to match the beds so when I need one I don’t have this crazy puzzle to find which one fits. If I plant later in spring, which I plan on doing, I will miss the late frosts and some pest pressure and probably would not need so many coverings and just concentrate on bug netting for brassicas and shade fabric. Things do tend to fall into place after a while. I looked back at some old pics of the beginning of my garden and couldn’t believe how it developed its own personality over time. Oh! I wanted to mention about trees and shrubs and what I realized is they can protect from frost a bit, but they zap moisture and nutrients big time and can grow into raised bedding areas. I don’t understand permaculture if you use native trees. If using fruit trees I can see it because the roots are not that huge, but we had let a young oak grow as it was our only shade and 12 years later I can’t keep a nearby flower bed in the garden watered enough. I have only a couple raised beds we started the garden with and there are roots venturing into them. I’m not a fan of raised beds because they are costly and dry out quick. A few reasons I can see their use is for people with physical difficulties, wet areas or aesthetic reasons, but think the cost is crazy. I just contain the soil in my long wide rows with reclaimed wood, logs, ect., but not to raise them and use my native sandy soil. After a few years of throwing everything I can in the rows and starting a good base with sticks and smaller limbs I now have worms!👏🏼👏🏼. I dug the paths down a bit and threw that soil in the rows and filled the paths with wood chips and the moisture retention is terrific. Thanks for all the tips!
Being in Georgia USA you lost me a little while talking about meters but i got the jist of it. Hahaha. Most of my beds are 3×6 ft. It works well for me. I do have a terraced area with a steep slope with perennials. Got tired of mowing it. Fighting the hill with a push mower year after year is hard on this ol body. Happy Growing 🌱
Renovating a neglected sloping plot,and just ordered two of your books.Thanks for the info.I was going to go down the slope,and 18 inch paths,4 feet beds.Heavy wet land,at Stoford,Yeovil,but gets the sun for most of the day.Think will use timber to keep the beds from spreading over the paths,as volunteers will be doing some of the work.
Just had my raised bed planks cut and delivered by my work (I’m lucky to work in a joinery shop!) So have been thinking hard about how I’m going to implement my plan - so thanks once again for another essential video!
It's such a joy to see your garden and listen to your stories and advice on Organic methods. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge with the world, it is invaluable to many who try and garden like you. William, North Central Florida, USA
Just the talk on NS/EW and up/down vs cross hill made this a very valuable post for me, Mr. D. Thank you! Luckily for me, the yard here at my new place (a long neglected fixer upper) runs both down-sloping and N/South.
Garden planning is such an important topic. My first garden was more similar to your design although I did not understand the no dig concept at that time. I would top with mushroom compost and use straw as a mulch between my beds which eventually broke down and became compost for next year's bed. My current garden, as I commented on before, is raised beds with either gravel in between them or wood chips in a smaller section. If I could do it over I would probably go back to your design. Not that I dislike the raised beds which help to save my back but maintenance and replacing the boxes is a real expense and a lot of work. I probably damage my back more working on the boxes lol. Not sure it's worth the benefits.
Ja, ich habe alleine 2 Hochbeete angelegt und zwei 1 x 1 Meter-Komposter aus Paletten, aber die wirklich härteste Arbeit war die Erde hinein zu bekommen😂 und spätestens im zweiten Jahr geht's wieder los mit der Erde
That’s what I’m saying is the raised bed craze is terribly expensive and gardening should not be expensive at all. We like our 3’ wide long rows and sandy loam. I can see RBs for physical challenges or wet areas, but to think you need one to grow great vegetables is not true.
As always, you have provided lots of tiny bits of information that are really useful. I'm about to slightly move the outer edges of my 'plots' as it turns out the neighbourhood cats all like to come and do their doings in the perimeter spaces! I think I might even have to create little hoods for the immediate perimeters in the woodchip paths to stop them getting too close to the netting. A few overnight thinking episodes really do uncover some smart solutions (looks obvious when you implement them). Thank you, I'm eternally grateful to uou.
Great advice thank you. We moved into an established property. Expanded from ornamental garden. Ran with the slope and against. Toughest challenges is very big trees. Great shelter but small veg. And big fluctuation of day night temps with being alpine so prone to things bolting. Im slowly creating better compost. Some very weedy but fertility is rising! No dig benefits are showing. Ive managed to convince my partner its greatness with observations. Thank you for your help!
Now you tell me! Reworking beds because I thought I was clever last year making smaller beds now wish they were wider so will be disturbing soil once again. Hopefully I’ll be forgiven once the compost is in. Thanks for your content. It’s always a delight to watch your videos.
I run my beds east west and just make sure to plant the taller things in the northern beds. I find that works very well with the winds here. No dig has been amazing here. We had massive and continuous rains over the summer and my plants thrived even as tilled gardens in the area had massive losses from soil and nutrient wash out.
My plot, when viewed from above is shaped like a ruler - 4.5m wide and 50m long. After a lot of planning I decided on 3 x 1m wide beds and 3 x 35cm paths plus 1 x 45cm main outside path. It's working out great. Initially I wanted 4 beds, but after calculating actual growing space the amount lost to that extra path was a shock! Another factor for less path space is I can't get hold of wood chips here (I've phoned around everywhere that might have them!) which means chipping my own, so less paths, equals less chips, equals less work! Great video Charles.
Thank you for sharing this, and you have an awkward shape for sure with so much edge, that sounds a really good solution. I can't work out how you have only one main outside path, perhaps there is a concrete path on the other side?
Thank you for your interest! The plot is a slice of an arable field lent to me by a farmer friend. There aren't any hedges or fences enclosing the area I'm using. The paths I mentioned are all wood chip paths within the 4.5m x 50m plot boundary. The main outside path is simply the path which runs down the outer edge of the plot which is next to where I park the car and is directly in line with the shed door which by habit takes the majority of traffic. I'll use some symbols to try and help you picture it. 35cm path symbol: ⎮ 1m wide bed symbol: 🁢 45cm path symbol: ↑ So 3 x 35cm paths and 3 x 1m beds looks like - ⎮🁢⎮🁢⎮🁢↑ < plus 1 x 45cm main outside edge path. Hope this helps ☺
Thanks for your insights and tips in garden planning, we are going to design a new garden plan for next season. It is not perfect north south orientation, so will see if we need to adjust it as the season progresses.
@CharlesDowding1nodig I find that I listen several times to these videos as its like a "conversation" I'm replaying. It's a blessing your work/ video educational you share. I wish you were in the States to tour your gardens. But alas... replaying will have to suffice. Cheers
My flower beds are open edge, my veggies are in raised beds so I can keep my dog (and rabbits) out with a makeshift chicken wire fence. 😊 My raised beds are no dig as well.
`hi @Charles, thanks for the voicing your opinion andthe good sound advice. I would argue with your take on bed alignement, especially the part about contour lines. I think your rules of thumb apply to small-to-medium size gardens,, where there is little catchment. If you have more catchment (above your project), so water is moving in the ground, and rain events also come with high winds, than slope stability is really atop the list of criteria.
Yes of course. You are absolutely right that I am addressing small and medium-size gardens, who are almost always left out of consideration! It's the same story right across the world of farming and gardening, that rules developed in larger scale systems, are automatically handed down to gardeners without anybody, questioning how appropriate they are in that context. Such as the four-year rotation.
@@CharlesDowding1nodig I completely agree that we need to think things through. I notice the same trend of a model of gardening becoming popular, and somehow other people copy it without really having to... also, your situation was that you knew how to manage your inputs (compost, mulch etc.), and those were actually available because you live in a highly developed country. And a no-dig garden has the capacity to keep that topsoil / compost where it is, and water will be absorbed for the most part.
I'm moving away from your main focus, but for context I live in France where market gardening ("maraichage") was being done mainly on the floodplains ("marais", hence the name of the trade - maraichage), where losing your topsoil meant it would end up in the river. Due to their position in the landscape, they had all the silt and organic matter coming onto their property, so they wouldn't care about contours and losing topsoil. Since the Mediterranean climate concentrates the rainfall in the colder season(s) - soil runs away from the garden when you're actually not there and unfortunately, that model has been exported EVERYWHERE, especially on mild and average slopes. That spells DISASTER. Enormous energy is spent to flatten properties, and bring in nutrients, fertility, minerals, and ignore working with the landscape, or at least find some other logic of working with your land. To get back to the core of the discussion, I hope these conversations are useful to bring in points of view that apply for more than one situation.
I would recommend wider paths for those of us who don’t have much upper body strength. That way you’ll have enough for a 2-wheel wheelbarrow to get through easily.
Nice video as usual Charles. At my old place, I began converting to 1,5 meter wide beds and the same paths from 0,75 meter beds. I found the bed:path ratio depressing after seeing how much more space I could be cultivating. Wider beds also, to me, just look a heck of a lot better than lots of narrow ones. Surely a mix makes sense once a farmer has their crop rotation down and a good sense of their market. For example, the narrow beds do very nicely for direct drilling with a manual seeder like a Jang model from South Korea. But the wider beds? They just feel nice and weren't that big of a pain in my situation. I had sandy soil with high organic matter, so if I were in clay I'd go more narrow but still >75 cm for sure! There's nothing better than a garden in which things just flow and your video really helps people understand that. I simply enjoy watching your garden now that I don't have one myself any longer. 😊
@@CharlesDowding1nodig thank you Charles, I have learned an incredible amount from you over the years and truly appreciate the time you take to share your methods with everyone in such an effective way
I am gardening in an urban lot. It has taken a year or so to figure out how the neighbours’ trees, my trees, the fence and my house affect sun exposure to the garden. Also to keep in mind is when the trees drop their leaves for winter (I garden all year) and how the sun moves across the sky from season to season. The sun for my fall/winter garden is very different from the spring/summer garden. Wish I had a nice open field but, alas, that is not the case. ☺️
@@CharlesDowding1nodig It is and on top of that I live in SE Texas where we have 4+ months a year of over 90 degree weather. 🙃But I am in it for the long haul. 👍
I had to hire a garden architect to make the design (measurements) changes to the grading of my garden so we could build it. My garden is not facing the north/south direction but everything grows beautifully. I think it is due to the fact that we get a lot of sun straight down over us during the day. I had to clear many trees too. Gosh, I can’t wait for growing season! Although I do grow something year round, the lushness of summer is my favorite time. Happy New Year, Charles!
Really interesting to hear how you planned it all at the start Charles. I do sometimes wonder about setting up veg beds in our small paddock out the back of our house rather than the allotment. The paddock slopes gently SE to NW. It's heavy clay and this time of year the paddock is very water logged on the lower part. There is also a raised area in the centre where the grass doesn't grow as well. I think the soil has been heavily compacted by years of cattle and recent years of boys playing football!
You can do it James. The soil is probably more dense than truly compacted. You could dig a test hole, and if you see many patches of orange and grey and blue soil, that suggests a problem, and it might be worth using a fork to loosen the top 25 cm, before spreading any organic matter on it. The earthworms will then get to work and improve structure.
@@CharlesDowding1nodig Thanks. I'm sure I will do it at some point. Maybe in 5 or so years. I guess if there is orange, grey and blue that would suggest that it's subsoil? I'm pretty confident though that you're right and it would end up being very productive. I'll wait a bit though. At the moment life is very busy whilst I launch my financial advice business and the boys would not be happy about a veg patch on their football pitch 🤣. I'll just have to keep escaping to the allotment when I can..
I settled on the 1.2m/0.4m path ratio a good few years ago & apart from where it doesn't fit, I've stuck with it. As you said; covers & supports are sized to fit this width of bed. I think people tend to forget plants will happily root out into the path, especially when using woodchip as a path surface, as it breaks down & supplies nutrients needed, so planting up to the edge is fine so long as using the paths doesn't damage them.
I feel like 30 inch (76cm) beds are now outdated. Too many people insisted on them due to the standardization of tools and ease of management. But to me you leave too much meat on the bone and being able to jump over the beds is the only benefit that I can think of. I like what Frith Farm and Jesse at No-till Growers are doing. 4ft beds. You really maximize the space and you can also manage them as two separate 2ft beds if reach becomes a problem. I think 16 inch (40cm) pathways are probably the most ideal but it can depend on context.
Yeah, I agree about 30" beds, such a waste of space especially when they are popular in small-scale operations which have limited space. I have been using 4ft beds in my production garden for over 15 years now and will continue.
Just what I needed. I established a new garden some years ago, which is ultimately going to be an orchard, but first needed shelter to grow. The fruit trees went in last winter and I'm cropping between them for the last time this season, but next year I will need to develop a new garden and it'll be my last, so I better get it right. I was thinking hard about the north south thing, but to be honest wind is probably the biggest issue on my property. Running tall crops, such as corn, climbers, on sturdy frames and sunflowers, raspberries, to break the wind, has worked well for me in the past and as you say, the shading thing isn't that important for much of the year and can actually be an advantage for cool loving crops mid summer. Unfortunately this runs counter to your advice on slope, which runs the other way though.
Very interesting and your comment highlights how it's hard to get everything working how we like. Wind can be quite destructive so I totally get what you're saying about it, I gardened in West Scotland in 1981 (Iona) and had quite enough wind there!
@@CharlesDowding1nodig I couldn't say we have a lot of days with wind, around the house it's really sheltered from the prevaling NE, but when it swings around to the Nor west, it's a shocker. Usually get two in a growing season and they're strong enough to vibrate the walls in our old wooden house. I've found its best to plant with the wind, rather than try to block it, otherwise everything is flattened.
Great video. After ~18 years of gardening in a backyard plot (~25x50 feet), I find that my eternal menace is invasive grasses - couch grass and yellow nutsedge especially. Broadleaf weeds come and go but they're easy to remove and you can leave them alone until they go to seed. It's been hard for me to maintain true no-dig because I'm always pulling rhizomes out of the soil. I think the smaller size of a backyard garden is part of the issue - my paths are only ~9 inches wide so I can push a wheelbarrow through and maximize my growing area. Would love them to be 2 feet to stop the spread of grasses. 2 years ago I top-dressed the soil with a thick layer of leaf compost (~4 inches) and put cardboard sheets and wood chips over the paths, and that is finally making a difference. TBH, it hurt the productivity of the garden compared to my normal compost (kitchen scraps) but I think it has helped block out enough light to slow down the grasses a bit. This winter I made a massive leaf-composting bin out of fencing and got leaves from around the neighborhood. Going to mix in my normal compost and cow manure, hoping I can compensate for the narrow paths with deeper beds.
This sounds promising. I'm sure that with the extra compost you will find it possible to get on top of that grass because the rhizomes rise to the surface into the softer material, and are then easier to pull out.
Charles - I guess that many who use 75cm beds are those who also use precision seeders to sow certain vegetables (carrots, radish, leaf crops), since those pieces of equipment are designed to be used with such bed widths. I'm with you on 1.2m beds - I set my first no-dig garden up with 1.5m beds and even for a 6 footer, it's tough to reach the middle of the beds to plant out modules without stepping on the bed. 1.2m is much easier. Personally, I've found that 30cm paths between beds works fine, but I do have 50cm paths surrounding a set of parallel beds too.
About to start third year of no-dig. My beds run nort south down a slope. I have a sleeper wall at the bottom to catch soil movement. Maybe, as the beds mature and feel the full effects of compost and no digging this will stop.
Nice to hear, and there can always be the exceptional storm, my neighbours had one this year in May but we were aired it here, it's good you have that failsafe
What a lovely intro video to beginning a garden. Sure wish I would’ve had this when I started my years ago 😊 I am happy to share this with any one ready to start a garden!! 🪴
After much consideration I decided on 1 meter wide beds, 40 cm paths. 1 meter makes it super easy to calculate yields, compost, amendments, etc. And importantly, I can step over the beds if I need to (obviously depends on how long your legs are). I tested 1.2 meter beds, but found it too wide for me to step over. (I know I can step directly on the beds, but that's not possible when full of lettuce for example.) Ideally, I'd have 50 cm wide paths to give me more room to maneuver, but I want to maximize the growing area. I'm also trialling living pathways with Dutch white clover, and ~40 cm is the width of my lawn mower. Comparison of ratios (beds/paths): 120/40 cm = 75/25 ratio
If you live in a dry area, don't run your garden width wider that what your overhead irrigation can cover. When I set up my gardens, I thought 50x50ft plots made since because soaker hoses came in 50ft lengths. When I expanded, and realized impact type sprinklers were a better option for me, I found out my garden plots needed to be NMT 40ft wide to avoid dry spots in the center. By then, I had my row covers and plastics all cut for 50ft standard lengths. Also for me, my favorite walkway size is 18 inches, bed width 4ft. I'm tall, so under 6ft, I would probably think 3ft bed width. With 50ft rows, time always being a factor, you will need to be stepping over, guaranteed.
Hmm, as someone who doesn't control the space I have for growing a tiny garden, could you do a video on maximizing space for container growing? Is it preferable to have large, sometimes heavy containers or something else? I have played around with container sizes and have yet to figure out what size is optimal for growing larger plants, along with spacing. I'm sorry if this isn't your understanding or experience. Thank you for showing how to grow almost anything chemical free.
Thank you, and from my experience of this, I reckon the best return is by avoiding a few space, demanding vegetables, such as squash, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, even potatoes. However, they mature quickly, and first early types need the space only for a small time, which is another way of looking at it, then you can replant. Vegetables for leaves give the biggest return, good luck.
If I may chime in, this gentleman does a lot of container gardening and has very useful information. He shows what's possible in small pots (10" diameter) with a variety of veg. www.youtube.com/@HomeGrownVeg I would echo what Charles mentioned about not growing veg that has a high space/time to yield ratio. Some crops aren't worth the space when it's precious and if they take up the pot for the whole season it may not be worth it. He's correct that leafy veg gives the best return but quick cropping veg is an option such as radish and bush beans. As far as potatoes, HGV grows a nice mix in his 10" pots and then goes on to reuse the pots for a different crop after harvest. It really depends on your length of season and if you can extend it at all with covers and such. Soil in pots warms faster and if you protect the foliage from frost you can get an early start and get some good rotation in. Check 'days to harvest' for the best varieties. Also, observe how Charles has seedlings ready to transplant as space is available. Those few weeks are precious when frost is looming. As far as pot size is concerned I've found it's a case of diminishing returns. My tipping point is 12" in diameter and height, used for larger (main crop?) potatoes. Anything bigger is unwieldy and doesn't seem to matter as far as output. My 10" pots handle determinate tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers just fine. The larger ones are good for summer squash. They take up space but are prolific enough to warrant it for me. I grow bush beans in window boxes set on the ground and peas would work, too. That brings up another aspect-vertical growing. If the space allows and the pot can be secured, pole beans are full-season and prolific as long as they're watered enough. Same with indeterminate tomatoes. The biggest issue is watering. Set each pot in a tray and water from the bottom. I don't use Earth Boxes or wicking tubs but others have had great success. Search this channel for good videos www.youtube.com/@texasprepper2 That said, I'm an envelope-pusher as far as space is concerned. I cram my beds full, do a lot of interplanting and get decent returns. Perhaps each plant doesn't produce as much as it would given 'regulation' space but the total output is greater. YMMV Best of luck and happy gardening!
I built two beds near a mountain ash and not far from a laurel hedge. Darn roots are knitting themselves in my beds. Argh! I guess I’ll have to move them, but limited space in our front yard.
This video came at a great time for me - just moved into a neglected garden bordered by large trees, very weedy and triangular in shape - quite a challenge! I am going to have the smaller beds you recommend I think. Also I have some very invasive bamboo - any tips for getting rid of it please?
Sounds great, except for the large trees, and the bamboo especially which I know is very difficult. I don't have personal experience, all I would say is don't underrate it and maybe ask local people for some knowledge about it
Do you have fields around you that spray glyphosate and other chemicals. Do you think it's a problem for someone trying to grow organic food or do the chemicals stay where they are spraying them?
I am fortunate that none of the neighbouring land receives synthetic chemical sprays, but that would be a factor for some gardens, if surrounded by intensive arable farming. Because yes, the poisons can drift in wind, maybe in small amounts, only, but over time that can build up.
Where I am there is now way to get large quantities of compost.......bagged only......closest place for large quantities is 100 miles away ......trying to get local sources to start a composting outfit.....
Can’t help but disagree about having beds running downhill on a slope, I have just worked on a sloped market garden in Sussex this season and there was a high amount of wind and rain erosion over winter. This could have been compounded by the mulch they used, which was mainly green waste and peat/coir based composts. Consequently we have made our new plots on contour with raised beds and sunken paths (effectively a terrace effect) in attempt to counter this. Will let you know how it goes!
That's interesting, and thanks for sharing. I'm guessing they might be on a bit more of a slope than I am referring to, it's a hard one to quantify, and good luck with the new layout. It's a lot more work to establish beds on a terrace pattern, sounds like it could be worthwhile in this case, and as you say, the type of compost is perhaps not helping.
@@CharlesDowding1nodig Fairly steep on the South Downs, with high winds and rain. We subsoiled then power-harrowed (as we have heavy clay that has been overgrazed and compacted by horses and plenty of wireworm), and then scraped the paths into the beds by hand, before mulching with cow and horse manure. We did 1/2 acre, which will be permanent no-dig beds going forward.
How do you deal with birds, I’ve been trying the. I dig method but the birds come in and peck and spread the compost looking for food. They pull out or scratch the plants and generally inhibit the beds.
It's a good question, and I used to suffer that, with blackbirds, but their numbers have been declining for some reason. Sometimes I would cover newly spread compost or newly planted beds with bird netting on hoops, which is the best remedy I know.
Because the water soaks in. Undisturbed soil maintains an open structure, which is also stronger than soil that has been tilled, it does not slump under the impact of rain. In addition, the surface organic matter, whatever type you apply, soaks up the water like a sponge, so there is almost no run-off.
Persistent removal is how I deal with it, and I know it well! The parent roots are not invincible and around edges, you need to keep pulling it back, it doesn't go away as you know, but there was quite a bit here when I arrived, now is much less
We have a pretty steep slope here that'll need terracing but we haven't begun because we can't seem to decide on the height and depth of the beds. The space is wide horizontally so that isn't as much an issue to consider for now, but the slope is 10m in length with 3.72m descent. There's vaguely 5 terrace levels there now that've deterioriated over the 40 years the previous owner lived here and they certainly aren't consistent. Any advice would be wonderful, thanks!
Digging out terraces is a huge job and it sounds worthwhile for you to work with the ones already there, hopefully you can make them good and level again. In the long run it will be worth it but you have a job to start out, good luck
No matter the time of year, Homeacres always looks incredibly picturesque 😊
That's lovely thanks, it keeps me sane to be surrounded by beauty
That's so true
I laid out my plan on the site with sticks and rope. Part one went smoothly - only at the end did I have to solve the puzzle - for several weeks I walked through my imaginary vegetable garden with an empty wheelbarrow - until it felt right
That is brilliant Reginald, and I bet the neighbours wondered what you were doing!
Bonjour Mr Dowding sur le fait que vous mettez chaque année du compost gras en épaisseur ou en ramenant le long des pommes de terre pour voir le jour y a pas de risques pour la santé au niveau des nitrates comme j'ai pus lire sur un livre sur le compost et paillage de Denis Pépin ?
I was just thinking about this today while laying cardboard to expand my garden. Half of my space is in a slope. Thank you so much. Perfect timing. 😅
You are so welcome!
As always, Charles, you provide a wealth of knowledge from your years of experience. Thank you!
My pleasure
Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Especially someone else's. Thank-you for yours.
😂 thanks
Full of admiration for what you do Charles and what you have done in the past , Amazing
Thank you for your kind words John
I bought a new house a few years ago and I decided to use an area of 20’ x 60’ for my garden so my kids and dogs still had enough room to run around in the backyard. It took me about a year before I decided on my bed width, path width, and which way to run my rows in my backyard. One day after a heavy rain I noticed water pooling where I wanted my garden so that’s when I decided I had to run my rows the same way where the water was draining which happened to be east to west. I really wanted the rows to be north and south but I’m glad I went with the direction where the water drained because not even a week after setting up the garden beds we had 5 inches of rain and it flooded the pathways and the water drained out down the street without washing out any of my garden beds.
That ... is so good! 💚
Good morning, Charles, from Windermere, Florida zone 9b
50°F at 6a.m and expecting 70°F for a high. Great tourist weather 👌
Your advice is always appreciated ❤
Take care
❤Peggy❤
This popped up and saving for info needed for the big change. A week and a half of finding your channel and already set up a three stage compost system and half-filled one bay. Thanx Charles.
Great to hear! Go your
A timely post, Charles, thank you! Our raised bed project completed today in our garden using your measurements by and large. Reassuring we've got it right. Cannot wait to plant up!
Great job, thanks Caroline
Nice to see you also here, Carolin🎉… following homesteading family channel also
Up and Down beds was such a key piece of advice for my particular garden planning. What a great video to stumble across! Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Beautiful video with valuable NoDig gardening information. Thanks Charles for sharing your healthy food methods passion.
Cheers Robert 🌱
Glad you enjoyed it Robert and my pleasure
Very useful advice. I have grass pathways wide enough for my tractor mower. Don’t make pathways so small that it is hard to wheel your wheelbarrow. Don’t make bed so wide that you cannot access the middle of the bed from either side. My two cents of advice!
Right on - and just to add, 12 inches/30 cm is wide enough for a wheelbarrow because you can put the legs on beds. There just needs to be room for a wheel and your two feet.
Your garden is always green with all kinds of vegetables no matter the season of the year. You are really very good.
Thank you for your kind comment
Regarding wider beds being more space efficient, I believe a compounding factor is that with narrower beds you might actually need wider paths, since everything growing in the narrower beds is closer to the edge and crowding the paths more. That was my experience anyway. Fantastic video, Charles ... Ive watched all 400+ of your videos and I think thats the 1st time I saw a tractor on your property 😂
Same. It’s easier for me to work with wider paths. 1/ For more crouching space and 2/ Room for plants to grow under netting/fleece/mesh.
I wished I had this detailed advise a few years ago, Sir Charles. So helpful! My no dig garden works overall really fine, but I can confirm what I would do better today as you mentioned: I have only 12.5 cm high wooden sides, but struggle to get my wheel barrow through the pathways. The property came with wonderful old trees and shrubs that I didn't want to touch as they are nice windbreaks. However, I cannot access my backyard with a trailer load of woodships or compost and that is a big limitation and extra work. Access is a key element. So yes, you better think twice before laying out your garden😊. In my next life perhaps, but I am aiming to be reborn as butterfly 😂, so might not plan a new garden then.
Lovely comment thank you 😂
ALWAYS, have your beds going down hill. I bought 16 acres 2 years ago that is all on a gentle slope. I tend to close down my earthmoving business in 10 years & start a Home makers garden phase 2 😁 ill definitely be keeping my bobcat & excavator though, but sell my truck. Ive watched ALL your videos & check every day (sometimes twice) for new videos. Thats how much i love your content & advice
Nice work govener.
Gary, 7th generation first fleet convict from Australia 🇦🇺
That's nice Gary!
Thanks, this might motivate me to rethink our plots this winter which have returned to grass after being neglected the last couple of years for various reasons - we had 6 rectangular plots but I think longer narrow ones might be a better bet 👍
Sounds worthwhile, and a good motivator 💚
We like our 3’ wide long rows.
Ive watched a lot of your videos and will be buying your books shortly, as I will have new land soon. I have implemented what I can where I currently am located with great results. Thank you for your wisdom, I trust your advice implicitly.
Great to hear Stephan and thank you, good luck with your future plans sounds exciting!
When it comes to problems with rain washing out the garden soil, I find that since I started no dig gardening I have had no problems with this even after some torrential rains on my slightly downhill slope. - This was a constant problem before I started no dig.
Good to hear Yvonne! I've had similar feedback after terrible flooding in Northwest Germany 2021, where a no dig garden was the only one left standing.
Bravo! Despite the wife's concern, I'm not worrying about one particularly Wide pathway with wood chips "wasting space". I have both a planned avenue for sunlight to critical areas and a place to locate/jostle some large fabric pots that have found a role in the garden seasonally. A wider than 'normally' reachable garden bed is also in the works for in-ground plants with places to step into, merely "firming the soil" not compacting. Mucho-thanks, Charles!
Excellent! I like your solutions
I have a slope I want to start using to grow things. So far I have filled it out, used it as sort of a waste area, and where I have harvested green things for my compost. In the spring I'll fill it further with manure and any material I can find. I plan to spend some time building soil since it's quite shallow soil with rocks under it. Shallow-rooted things will do fine after I build it up a little, I think. I use my own body and steps to get a feel for a space. I have made sure I can mow the lawn between my raised beds. I spend a lot of time planning and even taking pictures of the space so I can get a feel of it. It has really helped me. Going no dig and adapting to my microclimate has really helped me change how I garden.
All good to hear, love how you are connecting to the space
Well this was great timing 😊 I put in 2 beds when we moved in here nearly 2yrs ago (2.75 acres so loads of space and loving it too by the way 😅) have no idea the size but will definitely be measuring them tomorrow. The beds aren't too wide that I cant reach the middle and I like the width of the path I can kneel and not dig my boots into the bed behind me but they're probably a bit long. I was under a bit of pressure when putting them in cause I had no idea what I wanted and hubby was helping to unload the trailer so I said that will do. Ive just put in a 3rd and hoping to have enough material to do another. Ive just got another load of compost to try and work out an area for watermelons (think I've got 30 to plant) unfortunately I dont have plastic this year but next year I will do what you have done with your pumpkin patch. Thank you eternally for your wisdom and knowledge, I am loving the no dig method which my husband and son dont understand. My son said he wants to till an area to grow stuff....😡 I growled at him 😄 cheers from Australia 🇦🇺 👍
Love your humour, happy to help!
@@CharlesDowding1nodig us Aussies are a special breed 🤣
When my son wants do dig something, he‘s always welcome to turn my compost heap😅
I have tried different size paths and planting areas and realized 3 foot wide is perfect and I run the rows as long as I can-most 40 foot. I use reclaimed low boards to hold the soil in place and bark narrow rows (17 inches wide) as this allows enough room for a small wheelbarrow and keeping side boards low is helpful also. I run rows N-S and it allows the sun to hit all plants without concern for shading. Here in US farmland on hills are cultivated across the incline not up and down to prevent erosion.
I think as we age with our gardens we need to keep in mind what is easy to maintain. Four foot wide is a huge stretch and even though our bed areas are mainly no till I still don’t step on them. Later if I decide the rows are too long I can always chop them in half.
Now, the idea of garden cloths is a Real consideration! The coverings are in certain sizes and best to think about if you already have coverings. It can be difficult to support certain size covers. I know here I have to have that bug netting down Tight or those cabbage moths get in every time.🙄. I love how you store your covers just draping over 2x4. I fold and stuff totes to keep mice away, but hanging would be nice-just need to find room. Between shade, bug, frost and plastic coverings my shed is pretty full. I would love to not have to fold them and even better if the sizes were all the same to match the beds so when I need one I don’t have this crazy puzzle to find which one fits. If I plant later in spring, which I plan on doing, I will miss the late frosts and some pest pressure and probably would not need so many coverings and just concentrate on bug netting for brassicas and shade fabric.
Things do tend to fall into place after a while. I looked back at some old pics of the beginning of my garden and couldn’t believe how it developed its own personality over time.
Oh! I wanted to mention about trees and shrubs and what I realized is they can protect from frost a bit, but they zap moisture and nutrients big time and can grow into raised bedding areas. I don’t understand permaculture if you use native trees. If using fruit trees I can see it because the roots are not that huge, but we had let a young oak grow as it was our only shade and 12 years later I can’t keep a nearby flower bed in the garden watered enough. I have only a couple raised beds we started the garden with and there are roots venturing into them. I’m not a fan of raised beds because they are costly and dry out quick. A few reasons I can see their use is for people with physical difficulties, wet areas or aesthetic reasons, but think the cost is crazy. I just contain the soil in my long wide rows with reclaimed wood, logs, ect., but not to raise them and use my native sandy soil. After a few years of throwing everything I can in the rows and starting a good base with sticks and smaller limbs I now have worms!👏🏼👏🏼. I dug the paths down a bit and threw that soil in the rows and filled the paths with wood chips and the moisture retention is terrific.
Thanks for all the tips!
Great feedback. We grow with our gardens 💚
Being in Georgia USA you lost me a little while talking about meters but i got the jist of it. Hahaha. Most of my beds are 3×6 ft. It works well for me. I do have a terraced area with a steep slope with perennials. Got tired of mowing it. Fighting the hill with a push mower year after year is hard on this ol body. Happy Growing 🌱
Glad you worked it out! I love the sound of Georgia, and your accent.
Helpful tips! For those starting from scratch, it can be a dawnting task. These tips are welcomed 😊
Thank you, I am glad
Renovating a neglected sloping plot,and just ordered two of your books.Thanks for the info.I was going to go down the slope,and 18 inch paths,4 feet beds.Heavy wet land,at Stoford,Yeovil,but gets the sun for most of the day.Think will use timber to keep the beds from spreading over the paths,as volunteers will be doing some of the work.
Cheers Keith that's good to hear and also a good point about sides being useful when there are volunteers
Just had my raised bed planks cut and delivered by my work (I’m lucky to work in a joinery shop!) So have been thinking hard about how I’m going to implement my plan - so thanks once again for another essential video!
Enjoy the journey Sarah
It's such a joy to see your garden and listen to your stories and advice on Organic methods.
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge with the world, it is invaluable to many who try and garden like you.
William, North Central Florida, USA
Our pleasure William, I hope things are working out for you
Just the talk on NS/EW and up/down vs cross hill made this a very valuable post for me, Mr. D. Thank you! Luckily for me, the yard here at my new place (a long neglected fixer upper) runs both down-sloping and N/South.
Perfect!
Garden planning is such an important topic. My first garden was more similar to your design although I did not understand the no dig concept at that time. I would top with mushroom compost and use straw as a mulch between my beds which eventually broke down and became compost for next year's bed.
My current garden, as I commented on before, is raised beds with either gravel in between them or wood chips in a smaller section. If I could do it over I would probably go back to your design. Not that I dislike the raised beds which help to save my back but maintenance and replacing the boxes is a real expense and a lot of work. I probably damage my back more working on the boxes lol. Not sure it's worth the benefits.
This is helpful for others to read, thanks - the long term results of something which initially seems so good
Ja, ich habe alleine 2 Hochbeete angelegt und zwei 1 x 1 Meter-Komposter aus Paletten, aber die wirklich härteste Arbeit war die Erde hinein zu bekommen😂 und spätestens im zweiten Jahr geht's wieder los mit der Erde
Es ist eine lohnende Arbeit, es gut einzurichten 😎
That’s what I’m saying is the raised bed craze is terribly expensive and gardening should not be expensive at all. We like our 3’ wide long rows and sandy loam. I can see RBs for physical challenges or wet areas, but to think you need one to grow great vegetables is not true.
I tried 4' beds, but being petite I find 3' works better for me for being able to reach into the centre for picking and weeding etc.
😎 nice
As always, you have provided lots of tiny bits of information that are really useful. I'm about to slightly move the outer edges of my 'plots' as it turns out the neighbourhood cats all like to come and do their doings in the perimeter spaces! I think I might even have to create little hoods for the immediate perimeters in the woodchip paths to stop them getting too close to the netting. A few overnight thinking episodes really do uncover some smart solutions (looks obvious when you implement them). Thank you, I'm eternally grateful to uou.
This is fascinating, and I'm happy to be helping you find solutions 💚
What are little hoods? I too have neighbourhood cats toileting on my beds. 😢
Good to know things are ok. Thanks for update .
Great video. Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed it Rich, and worked out your design!
Even if I have not followed your ways I enjoy seeing your opinions just for another day as I make changes often! Good video!
I appreciate that!
Great advice thank you. We moved into an established property. Expanded from ornamental garden. Ran with the slope and against. Toughest challenges is very big trees. Great shelter but small veg. And big fluctuation of day night temps with being alpine so prone to things bolting. Im slowly creating better compost. Some very weedy but fertility is rising! No dig benefits are showing. Ive managed to convince my partner its greatness with observations. Thank you for your help!
Great job Renata 💚
Now you tell me! Reworking beds because I thought I was clever last year making smaller beds now wish they were wider so will be disturbing soil once again. Hopefully I’ll be forgiven once the compost is in. Thanks for your content. It’s always a delight to watch your videos.
Cheers Oliver!
I run my beds east west and just make sure to plant the taller things in the northern beds. I find that works very well with the winds here. No dig has been amazing here. We had massive and continuous rains over the summer and my plants thrived even as tilled gardens in the area had massive losses from soil and nutrient wash out.
Super to hear that Julie-Anne, I shall quote you on Instagram 😀
My plot, when viewed from above is shaped like a ruler - 4.5m wide and 50m long. After a lot of planning I decided on 3 x 1m wide beds and 3 x 35cm paths plus 1 x 45cm main outside path. It's working out great. Initially I wanted 4 beds, but after calculating actual growing space the amount lost to that extra path was a shock! Another factor for less path space is I can't get hold of wood chips here (I've phoned around everywhere that might have them!) which means chipping my own, so less paths, equals less chips, equals less work! Great video Charles.
Thank you for sharing this, and you have an awkward shape for sure with so much edge, that sounds a really good solution. I can't work out how you have only one main outside path, perhaps there is a concrete path on the other side?
Thank you for your interest! The plot is a slice of an arable field lent to me by a farmer friend. There aren't any hedges or fences enclosing the area I'm using. The paths I mentioned are all wood chip paths within the 4.5m x 50m plot boundary. The main outside path is simply the path which runs down the outer edge of the plot which is next to where I park the car and is directly in line with the shed door which by habit takes the majority of traffic. I'll use some symbols to try and help you picture it.
35cm path symbol: ⎮
1m wide bed symbol: 🁢
45cm path symbol: ↑
So 3 x 35cm paths and 3 x 1m beds looks like - ⎮🁢⎮🁢⎮🁢↑ < plus 1 x 45cm main outside edge path. Hope this helps ☺
Superb, that makes sense, and thanks very much for clarifying, I hope he gives you security of tenure with all your investment in his soil!
Same! We've known him for decades and he often says I'm free to expand width ways if I need more space, so I'm hopeful.
Thanks for your insights and tips in garden planning, we are going to design a new garden plan for next season. It is not perfect north south orientation, so will see if we need to adjust it as the season progresses.
Thank you. I enjoy so much hearing your layout logic. This gives me much to think about.
Great to hear Dwight
Ending my gardening season by implementing your starting the no dig garden techniques! Thankful for the informative videos.
That's great to hear! and my pleasure 🙂
@CharlesDowding1nodig
I find that I listen several times to these videos as its like a "conversation" I'm replaying. It's a blessing your work/ video educational you share.
I wish you were in the States to tour your gardens. But alas... replaying will have to suffice.
Cheers
Ah that is nice thanks
Perfect timing. Tomorrow i was gonna plan out next years garden space since i have a brand new and very large space to work with.
Great to hear and good luck with your new space 🙂
My flower beds are open edge, my veggies are in raised beds so I can keep my dog (and rabbits) out with a makeshift chicken wire fence. 😊 My raised beds are no dig as well.
Makes sense!
`hi @Charles, thanks for the voicing your opinion andthe good sound advice. I would argue with your take on bed alignement, especially the part about contour lines. I think your rules of thumb apply to small-to-medium size gardens,, where there is little catchment. If you have more catchment (above your project), so water is moving in the ground, and rain events also come with high winds, than slope stability is really atop the list of criteria.
Yes of course. You are absolutely right that I am addressing small and medium-size gardens, who are almost always left out of consideration! It's the same story right across the world of farming and gardening, that rules developed in larger scale systems, are automatically handed down to gardeners without anybody, questioning how appropriate they are in that context. Such as the four-year rotation.
@@CharlesDowding1nodig I completely agree that we need to think things through. I notice the same trend of a model of gardening becoming popular, and somehow other people copy it without really having to... also, your situation was that you knew how to manage your inputs (compost, mulch etc.), and those were actually available because you live in a highly developed country. And a no-dig garden has the capacity to keep that topsoil / compost where it is, and water will be absorbed for the most part.
I'm moving away from your main focus, but for context I live in France where market gardening ("maraichage") was being done mainly on the floodplains ("marais", hence the name of the trade - maraichage), where losing your topsoil meant it would end up in the river. Due to their position in the landscape, they had all the silt and organic matter coming onto their property, so they wouldn't care about contours and losing topsoil.
Since the Mediterranean climate concentrates the rainfall in the colder season(s) - soil runs away from the garden when you're actually not there and unfortunately, that model has been exported EVERYWHERE, especially on mild and average slopes. That spells DISASTER. Enormous energy is spent to flatten properties, and bring in nutrients, fertility, minerals, and ignore working with the landscape, or at least find some other logic of working with your land.
To get back to the core of the discussion, I hope these conversations are useful to bring in points of view that apply for more than one situation.
Great advice Charles! Thank you! Your garde looke so beautiful and orderly! Blessings!
I am glad you liked it and thank you Cami
I would recommend wider paths for those of us who don’t have much upper body strength. That way you’ll have enough for a 2-wheel wheelbarrow to get through easily.
Fair point, thanks
Sounds like solid advice Charles. Thanks for the advice.
Keep up the good work.
Invaluable knowledge from you Charles. Video quality 5 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟
Thank you I am glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Nice video as usual Charles. At my old place, I began converting to 1,5 meter wide beds and the same paths from 0,75 meter beds. I found the bed:path ratio depressing after seeing how much more space I could be cultivating. Wider beds also, to me, just look a heck of a lot better than lots of narrow ones. Surely a mix makes sense once a farmer has their crop rotation down and a good sense of their market. For example, the narrow beds do very nicely for direct drilling with a manual seeder like a Jang model from South Korea. But the wider beds? They just feel nice and weren't that big of a pain in my situation. I had sandy soil with high organic matter, so if I were in clay I'd go more narrow but still >75 cm for sure!
There's nothing better than a garden in which things just flow and your video really helps people understand that. I simply enjoy watching your garden now that I don't have one myself any longer. 😊
Thanks Joshua, more good points!
@@CharlesDowding1nodig thank you Charles, I have learned an incredible amount from you over the years and truly appreciate the time you take to share your methods with everyone in such an effective way
You are so welcome Joshua and thank you
I am gardening in an urban lot. It has taken a year or so to figure out how the neighbours’ trees, my trees, the fence and my house affect sun exposure to the garden. Also to keep in mind is when the trees drop their leaves for winter (I garden all year) and how the sun moves across the sky from season to season. The sun for my fall/winter garden is very different from the spring/summer garden. Wish I had a nice open field but, alas, that is not the case. ☺️
Sounds a challenge!
@@CharlesDowding1nodig It is and on top of that I live in SE Texas where we have 4+ months a year of over 90 degree weather. 🙃But I am in it for the long haul. 👍
I had to hire a garden architect to make the design (measurements) changes to the grading of my garden so we could build it. My garden is not facing the north/south direction but everything grows beautifully. I think it is due to the fact that we get a lot of sun straight down over us during the day. I had to clear many trees too. Gosh, I can’t wait for growing season! Although I do grow something year round, the lushness of summer is my favorite time. Happy New Year, Charles!
Thanks Sandra, and that sounds a mega-job with fine results!
Such a great teacher, thank you for all you do 😊😊
Thank you and my pleasure Eiljah
So beautiful. I like your advice to start small and go from there.
I am glad! and thank you
Really interesting to hear how you planned it all at the start Charles. I do sometimes wonder about setting up veg beds in our small paddock out the back of our house rather than the allotment.
The paddock slopes gently SE to NW. It's heavy clay and this time of year the paddock is very water logged on the lower part. There is also a raised area in the centre where the grass doesn't grow as well. I think the soil has been heavily compacted by years of cattle and recent years of boys playing football!
You can do it James. The soil is probably more dense than truly compacted.
You could dig a test hole, and if you see many patches of orange and grey and blue soil, that suggests a problem, and it might be worth using a fork to loosen the top 25 cm, before spreading any organic matter on it. The earthworms will then get to work and improve structure.
@@CharlesDowding1nodig Thanks. I'm sure I will do it at some point. Maybe in 5 or so years. I guess if there is orange, grey and blue that would suggest that it's subsoil? I'm pretty confident though that you're right and it would end up being very productive.
I'll wait a bit though. At the moment life is very busy whilst I launch my financial advice business and the boys would not be happy about a veg patch on their football pitch 🤣. I'll just have to keep escaping to the allotment when I can..
I settled on the 1.2m/0.4m path ratio a good few years ago & apart from where it doesn't fit, I've stuck with it. As you said; covers & supports are sized to fit this width of bed.
I think people tend to forget plants will happily root out into the path, especially when using woodchip as a path surface, as it breaks down & supplies nutrients needed, so planting up to the edge is fine so long as using the paths doesn't damage them.
Nice to hear :)
You've done a great job Charles.
Thank you Rocco
I feel like 30 inch (76cm) beds are now outdated. Too many people insisted on them due to the standardization of tools and ease of management. But to me you leave too much meat on the bone and being able to jump over the beds is the only benefit that I can think of. I like what Frith Farm and Jesse at No-till Growers are doing. 4ft beds. You really maximize the space and you can also manage them as two separate 2ft beds if reach becomes a problem. I think 16 inch (40cm) pathways are probably the most ideal but it can depend on context.
Good to hear Jack and it's fascinating how ideas and methods evolve
Yeah, I agree about 30" beds, such a waste of space especially when they are popular in small-scale operations which have limited space. I have been using 4ft beds in my production garden for over 15 years now and will continue.
An excellent explanation, thank you
You are welcome
Just what I needed. I established a new garden some years ago, which is ultimately going to be an orchard, but first needed shelter to grow. The fruit trees went in last winter and I'm cropping between them for the last time this season, but next year I will need to develop a new garden and it'll be my last, so I better get it right. I was thinking hard about the north south thing, but to be honest wind is probably the biggest issue on my property. Running tall crops, such as corn, climbers, on sturdy frames and sunflowers, raspberries, to break the wind, has worked well for me in the past and as you say, the shading thing isn't that important for much of the year and can actually be an advantage for cool loving crops mid summer. Unfortunately this runs counter to your advice on slope, which runs the other way though.
Very interesting and your comment highlights how it's hard to get everything working how we like. Wind can be quite destructive so I totally get what you're saying about it, I gardened in West Scotland in 1981 (Iona) and had quite enough wind there!
@@CharlesDowding1nodig I couldn't say we have a lot of days with wind, around the house it's really sheltered from the prevaling NE, but when it swings around to the Nor west, it's a shocker. Usually get two in a growing season and they're strong enough to vibrate the walls in our old wooden house. I've found its best to plant with the wind, rather than try to block it, otherwise everything is flattened.
I love what you do, and I would love to have a small plot of land to have a garden and increase my current composting capacity.
Helpful as always are your advices. Thank you.
My pleasure
Lots of great advice with deeper insight❤
💚
Great video brother
Glad you liked it
Great video. After ~18 years of gardening in a backyard plot (~25x50 feet), I find that my eternal menace is invasive grasses - couch grass and yellow nutsedge especially. Broadleaf weeds come and go but they're easy to remove and you can leave them alone until they go to seed.
It's been hard for me to maintain true no-dig because I'm always pulling rhizomes out of the soil. I think the smaller size of a backyard garden is part of the issue - my paths are only ~9 inches wide so I can push a wheelbarrow through and maximize my growing area. Would love them to be 2 feet to stop the spread of grasses.
2 years ago I top-dressed the soil with a thick layer of leaf compost (~4 inches) and put cardboard sheets and wood chips over the paths, and that is finally making a difference. TBH, it hurt the productivity of the garden compared to my normal compost (kitchen scraps) but I think it has helped block out enough light to slow down the grasses a bit.
This winter I made a massive leaf-composting bin out of fencing and got leaves from around the neighborhood. Going to mix in my normal compost and cow manure, hoping I can compensate for the narrow paths with deeper beds.
This sounds promising. I'm sure that with the extra compost you will find it possible to get on top of that grass because the rhizomes rise to the surface into the softer material, and are then easier to pull out.
Inspiring stuff! Thank you , Charles!!
My pleasure
Charles - I guess that many who use 75cm beds are those who also use precision seeders to sow certain vegetables (carrots, radish, leaf crops), since those pieces of equipment are designed to be used with such bed widths. I'm with you on 1.2m beds - I set my first no-dig garden up with 1.5m beds and even for a 6 footer, it's tough to reach the middle of the beds to plant out modules without stepping on the bed. 1.2m is much easier. Personally, I've found that 30cm paths between beds works fine, but I do have 50cm paths surrounding a set of parallel beds too.
Yes, machinery!!! Good points Rhys 😎
About to start third year of no-dig. My beds run nort south down a slope. I have a sleeper wall at the bottom to catch soil movement. Maybe, as the beds mature and feel the full effects of compost and no digging this will stop.
Nice to hear, and there can always be the exceptional storm, my neighbours had one this year in May but we were aired it here, it's good you have that failsafe
Shadows and winter sun vs summer sun is a big thing here, as we grow 365 days a year.
Respect from Africa 🇿🇦
Thanks, that's helpful feedback
What a lovely intro video to beginning a garden. Sure wish I would’ve had this when I started my years ago 😊 I am happy to share this with any one ready to start a garden!! 🪴
Thanks so much 😊
Great video
Thank you
After much consideration I decided on 1 meter wide beds, 40 cm paths.
1 meter makes it super easy to calculate yields, compost, amendments, etc. And importantly, I can step over the beds if I need to (obviously depends on how long your legs are). I tested 1.2 meter beds, but found it too wide for me to step over. (I know I can step directly on the beds, but that's not possible when full of lettuce for example.) Ideally, I'd have 50 cm wide paths to give me more room to maneuver, but I want to maximize the growing area. I'm also trialling living pathways with Dutch white clover, and ~40 cm is the width of my lawn mower.
Comparison of ratios (beds/paths):
120/40 cm = 75/25 ratio
Nicely thought out and thanks for sharing 😎
THERE MAY BE MANY FACTORS TO DECIDE BUT IF ONE COMMITS TO NO DIG THEN THE BIGGEST MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR HAS ALREADY BEEN DECIDED !!!!!!!
Wise comment thanks. All else follows.
30 inch bed with 10 inch pathway is what i do for short crop beds with a main artery for wheelbarrow etc
Wow 10in paths, impressive
I only need just enough space to plant my foot then i straddle the bed to plant, harvest etc @@CharlesDowding1nodig
Great information Charles 👍
Thank you Troy
Love the John Deere tractor in thr garden!!!
My son Jack. Such a contrast 😮 and very good with tractors!
We use this method and love it thanks 8-b Florida
Great to hear Robert
Always great videos!
Thank you Tom
Great topic!
🙌
If you live in a dry area, don't run your garden width wider that what your overhead irrigation can cover. When I set up my gardens, I thought 50x50ft plots made since because soaker hoses came in 50ft lengths. When I expanded, and realized impact type sprinklers were a better option for me, I found out my garden plots needed to be NMT 40ft wide to avoid dry spots in the center. By then, I had my row covers and plastics all cut for 50ft standard lengths. Also for me, my favorite walkway size is 18 inches, bed width 4ft. I'm tall, so under 6ft, I would probably think 3ft bed width. With 50ft rows, time always being a factor, you will need to be stepping over, guaranteed.
I use 50 ft soaker hoses
The water tapers off before it gets to end, which is okay
Hmm, as someone who doesn't control the space I have for growing a tiny garden, could you do a video on maximizing space for container growing?
Is it preferable to have large, sometimes heavy containers or something else?
I have played around with container sizes and have yet to figure out what size is optimal for growing larger plants, along with spacing.
I'm sorry if this isn't your understanding or experience. Thank you for showing how to grow almost anything chemical free.
Thank you, and from my experience of this, I reckon the best return is by avoiding a few space, demanding vegetables, such as squash, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, even potatoes. However, they mature quickly, and first early types need the space only for a small time, which is another way of looking at it, then you can replant. Vegetables for leaves give the biggest return, good luck.
If I may chime in, this gentleman does a lot of container gardening and has very useful information. He shows what's possible in small pots (10" diameter) with a variety of veg. www.youtube.com/@HomeGrownVeg
I would echo what Charles mentioned about not growing veg that has a high space/time to yield ratio. Some crops aren't worth the space when it's precious and if they take up the pot for the whole season it may not be worth it. He's correct that leafy veg gives the best return but quick cropping veg is an option such as radish and bush beans.
As far as potatoes, HGV grows a nice mix in his 10" pots and then goes on to reuse the pots for a different crop after harvest. It really depends on your length of season and if you can extend it at all with covers and such. Soil in pots warms faster and if you protect the foliage from frost you can get an early start and get some good rotation in. Check 'days to harvest' for the best varieties. Also, observe how Charles has seedlings ready to transplant as space is available. Those few weeks are precious when frost is looming.
As far as pot size is concerned I've found it's a case of diminishing returns. My tipping point is 12" in diameter and height, used for larger (main crop?) potatoes. Anything bigger is unwieldy and doesn't seem to matter as far as output. My 10" pots handle determinate tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers just fine. The larger ones are good for summer squash. They take up space but are prolific enough to warrant it for me. I grow bush beans in window boxes set on the ground and peas would work, too. That brings up another aspect-vertical growing. If the space allows and the pot can be secured, pole beans are full-season and prolific as long as they're watered enough. Same with indeterminate tomatoes. The biggest issue is watering. Set each pot in a tray and water from the bottom. I don't use Earth Boxes or wicking tubs but others have had great success. Search this channel for good videos www.youtube.com/@texasprepper2
That said, I'm an envelope-pusher as far as space is concerned. I cram my beds full, do a lot of interplanting and get decent returns. Perhaps each plant doesn't produce as much as it would given 'regulation' space but the total output is greater. YMMV
Best of luck and happy gardening!
Sage advice 🙂
Soooo helpful❤
I built two beds near a mountain ash and not far from a laurel hedge. Darn roots are knitting themselves in my beds. Argh! I guess I’ll have to move them, but limited space in our front yard.
Laurel hedges can be pruned hard, hope you can work it
This video came at a great time for me - just moved into a neglected garden bordered by large trees, very weedy and triangular in shape - quite a challenge! I am going to have the smaller beds you recommend I think. Also I have some very invasive bamboo - any tips for getting rid of it please?
Sounds great, except for the large trees, and the bamboo especially which I know is very difficult. I don't have personal experience, all I would say is don't underrate it and maybe ask local people for some knowledge about it
i've been making my beds about 4.5' to 5' wide beds with 16 inch paths.
😎
Do you have fields around you that spray glyphosate and other chemicals. Do you think it's a problem for someone trying to grow organic food or do the chemicals stay where they are spraying them?
I am fortunate that none of the neighbouring land receives synthetic chemical sprays, but that would be a factor for some gardens, if surrounded by intensive arable farming. Because yes, the poisons can drift in wind, maybe in small amounts, only, but over time that can build up.
What about staggered swales, some people use them to concentrate the water to stop it running off.
If you had a runoff problem (less likely with no dig), sounds good, but a lot of extra work otherwise
is there a type of plastic or landscape fabric you would recommend for how long lasting it will be? and where to get it from, thanks
Farmers uv treated silage sheeting from agricultural depots
Where I am there is now way to get large quantities of compost.......bagged only......closest place for large quantities is 100 miles away ......trying to get local sources to start a composting outfit.....
Keep persuading!!
Can’t help but disagree about having beds running downhill on a slope, I have just worked on a sloped market garden in Sussex this season and there was a high amount of wind and rain erosion over winter. This could have been compounded by the mulch they used, which was mainly green waste and peat/coir based composts.
Consequently we have made our new plots on contour with raised beds and sunken paths (effectively a terrace effect) in attempt to counter this. Will let you know how it goes!
That's interesting, and thanks for sharing. I'm guessing they might be on a bit more of a slope than I am referring to, it's a hard one to quantify, and good luck with the new layout.
It's a lot more work to establish beds on a terrace pattern, sounds like it could be worthwhile in this case, and as you say, the type of compost is perhaps not helping.
@@CharlesDowding1nodig Fairly steep on the South Downs, with high winds and rain. We subsoiled then power-harrowed (as we have heavy clay that has been overgrazed and compacted by horses and plenty of wireworm), and then scraped the paths into the beds by hand, before mulching with cow and horse manure. We did 1/2 acre, which will be permanent no-dig beds going forward.
Impressive work, a half acre!
yup
How do you deal with birds, I’ve been trying the. I dig method but the birds come in and peck and spread the compost looking for food. They pull out or scratch the plants and generally inhibit the beds.
It's a good question, and I used to suffer that, with blackbirds, but their numbers have been declining for some reason. Sometimes I would cover newly spread compost or newly planted beds with bird netting on hoops, which is the best remedy I know.
Short quick question, how long are your arches for beds if you use 2m wide covering over them?
2.5m, which includes about 12cm in the soil each side of the beds
@@CharlesDowding1nodig thank you 🙏
How does the beds not wash into the walkways after a hard rain?
Because the water soaks in.
Undisturbed soil maintains an open structure, which is also stronger than soil that has been tilled, it does not slump under the impact of rain. In addition, the surface organic matter, whatever type you apply, soaks up the water like a sponge, so there is almost no run-off.
❤️❤️💚💚💚
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I'm replacing the wood around my beds after 25 years of use, what wood do you recommend?
None.
25 years though is amazing and that must be hardwood. If you really want wooden sides, some kind of hardwood is best.
My problem is the very invasive quack grass, how do I stop and deal with this menace?
Persistent removal is how I deal with it, and I know it well! The parent roots are not invincible and around edges, you need to keep pulling it back, it doesn't go away as you know, but there was quite a bit here when I arrived, now is much less
We have a pretty steep slope here that'll need terracing but we haven't begun because we can't seem to decide on the height and depth of the beds. The space is wide horizontally so that isn't as much an issue to consider for now, but the slope is 10m in length with 3.72m descent. There's vaguely 5 terrace levels there now that've deterioriated over the 40 years the previous owner lived here and they certainly aren't consistent. Any advice would be wonderful, thanks!
Digging out terraces is a huge job and it sounds worthwhile for you to work with the ones already there, hopefully you can make them good and level again. In the long run it will be worth it but you have a job to start out, good luck