Hi Mark, I recently purchased the P6 and followed your advice to get a different Stop button. The Stop button is prewired, has three wires out Blue, White and Green. The connection cords are two wires Black and Red So would the correct wiring connection be: STOP BTN - Connection Cords -------------- BLUE - BLACK (Connection Cords) WHITE - RED (Connection Cords) -------- GREEN - ground Please let me know if this is like yours or different so I can wire it up properly like yours before use. I’ve read where either RED OR BLACK is hot as well as BLUE, so I want to ensure it’s wired properly as to not let that magic smoke out… Many thanks and keep up the great content!
Hi, I'm at Flight Sim Expo right now so can't check. Make sure I didn't leave the correct hookup in either th description or a pinned comment... If not I'll try to answer when I get home. Thanks so much for watching our stuff... Appreciate it!
@@GYGOtvhi Mark, you mention modifications but not by wire colors. After you get back from the expo and get back in the groove of things, if you get a chance and follow up on this, you’ll really help me and others out. I appreciate you reaching out on this post.
@@stephengomes977 Hi Stephen, After looking back on previous replies, what we remember is putting the green wire to the black wire and we think we used the blue wire with the red… not using the white at all. Try it out that way and see if it works. If it is wrong, you will just be backward and you will have to have the switch pushed in to get it to work. If that is the case try using the white wire instead. Hope that helps. I'll pin this comment so it will be easier to find in the future. Please let me know if you got it to work this way so others won't have to wait so long for the answer. Thanks a ton and appreciate your patience while I was at the Expo.
Thank you so much for the compliment and taking the time to watch our content! I'm self taught so comments like this really make me feel good about all the work that goes into these. I hope you enjoy some of our other videos too, and maybe even become a regular GYGO viewer. What a great comment to start the week off with!
You are welcome... you certainly want to watch this one if you are building now czcams.com/video/RNk-c88FNtA/video.html. This was the one where we show a lot of our core changes. The units are a little different now days but lots of this stuff should still apply if you want to give your P6 a little extra attention. Obviously there is a whole series for the H6 on the channel if you really want to see all the details from our DOF Reality journey. Thank you so much for watching!
Excellent content Mark. I love the idea of the trackpad rather than a trackball or mouse so I bought the one you suggested (hope you get something from the affiliate link). I especially appreciate your well considered reasons for why you opt for some peripherals over others. There are a lot more expensive options with more 'bling' available than the ones you chose but your explainations were great and show that the newest (and usually the more exspensive) is not essential to awesome gaming. I look forward to the next installment and watching your viewership grow. I'd love for you to do a 'idiots guide' to the buttkicker install. I've got one but for the life of me I can't get it working despite plugging it into USB & Audio ports (including via a USB audio driver) and installing the simshaker and buttkicker software.
Thanks for the View and the kind words Stuart! Also appreciate you using the affiliate link, I'm planning some changes for the channel as we get closer to 1000 Subs... Stay Tuned for what the future of GYGO might look like. I'll look at the possibility of the "idiots Guide to the Buttkicker", got about 3 episodes in the planning stages right now but I'll put it on the schedule at some point. What buttkicker are you using, is it a Gamer 2 as well? Let me know and thanks as always for checking out the content.
wow...nearly a thousand subs in a couple of weeks! Bravo. Shows how your content has resonance. I think I was like 93rd! hahah. I look foward to the new content in the future. Re the buttkicker, It shouldn''t be difficult for me to set up and I'm not being lazy, I just think there are some gremlins with this device which may warrant a deeper dive, especially software and I often see forums with people asking install questions so I think I might not be the only one. I have a Buttkicker 2 (with a BKA-130-Ci amp) and when i installed it, the instructions advised to download an app called voicemeeter (vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter) but I haven't seen this app mentioned by anyone since so there may well be a software clash behind my glitches too (I also have Simshaker for IL2 & DCS so there maybe a clash). I'm not sure if voicemeeter app is still relevant or if the new HaptiConnect app from Buttkicker has replaced it and Simshaker etc etc. I just think it might be useful for some clarity for other gamers who may be thinking of getting one (or who have one) and to remove the mystrey of the device/software install. The install instruction manual from Buttkicker looked like it came out of a 70's electrical component so would love to see a breakdown in laymans terms. Thansk Mark
Was waiting for this video, after seeing all the other ones and wondering about your complete setup. I'm really considering the H6 and these videos are really helpful to know where to get started. I might get your exact setup, except for getting some peripherals from a different brand! Thanks man.
No Problem, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos and thanks for being a GYGO viewer! Peripheral choices are so vast and personal that I wouldn't expect anyone to be happy with all the pieces I use. That is why it is so important to make sure you research all your choices and make an educated decision on what would work best for you. I hope this comment section can grow with other people's suggestions and recommendations so other viewers can get various viewpoints. It's funny, peripherals are kind of like VR Headsets... there isn't one "Best" product... the trick is finding the product that is "Best For You". Let me know what you decide on and thanks for the comment. Also, if you are getting close to purchasing an H6, shoot me a quick email so I can fill you in on some behind the scenes things that I can't make public yet. My email is in the description and in the video.
Great video! I'm ready glad you included the links as well. Maybe in a future video, you can show a quick clip how you drilled holes in the equipment for mounting as well.
Well I hope we don't need to drill anymore but this thing is like a hot rod, it seems like we are always modding it. Pretty straight forward on the holes, just drilled them and then put the rivet nuts in the holes. Not much to it other than that. They make a special tool to install the rivet nuts and that makes it super easy!
My Logitech trackball mouse has a lock button on top. It doesn’t turn off the mouse it just turns off the track ball. I have motion and 4 Buttkickers on my racing rig and that feature really helps. I also mounted my trackball mouse vertically so all I do is put my arm down to my side and it’s right there angled perfectly for my hand to rest on it. It’s perfect for VR. I love it.
I thought about a trackball but honestly I love the touchpad because in flight sims it feels more like you are clicking the buttons to me. To each their own I guess. Thanks for watching.
Have the T16000m stick since around 2017 - no flaws ever. Great value. Added the TCWS throttle later when it launched. But this year its electronics died. I wouldn't buy it again. It was perfect for Elite Dangerous, though. I agree.
Thanks Mark, you have answered some questions for me,just awaitng customs clearance for the Aero. I can second the suggestion for the VKm Gladiator evo. Was thinking of the Warthog but way to expensive and the build of the VKB is awaesome. Take Care and the P6 is going well.
Thanks Les, I'll have to look more into those VKB sticks since everyone seems to be talking about them. Do they have any pinkie switches like the Warthog?
@@stuartnorman5209 Varjo is based in Finland and I believe the headsets are shipped out of Hong Kong the last I heard. I know things changed (I think temporarily) "Due to Covid"tm and maybe they started shipping from elsewhere while Hong Kong was on lockdown, but I'm not sure of that.
This is great, excellent detail. Also congratulations on some very tidy cable management. EDIT - maybe you have other videos, or in the works, but e.g. for the Buttkicker there is a software to consider - Simhub with different profiles, and also Simshaker sound module (a bit complicated now because the seller is Russian).
Well thank you... I hate messy cables and I appreciate you noticing! Probably spent way too much time doing it but my OCD gets the best of me sometimes (well really most of the time). I also appreciate you commenting and being a GYGO viewer!
Reply to the EDIT... There are so many transducer options out there, there probably could be a whole video on it. I like the simplicity of the Buttkicker and the fact it uses game sound instead of telemetry from software BECAUSE every game has sound and not all have the telemetry. Just my preference... I've seen some pretty impressive setups with multiple transducers, but I've been happy so far with the Buttkicker for just that added touch of immersion. Please keep the suggestions coming, gives viewer different viewpoints other than just mine. Thanks for that!
Thanks Brian, Wow that was a long time ago but hopefully what I can remember will help you. You basically wire it to the “Normally Open” side of the switch so that when you press the Estop Button, it closes the circuit. Here are the parts we used, hope that helps. Emergency Stop Push Button Switch amzn.to/3v59aRz Connection Cords for Emergency Stop Button amzn.to/3OuCAQT
@@GYGOtv Thanks mark, your channel has been my goto since I started this journey. I just got into this about a month ago when a friend asked me to figure out a Ricmotech simulator (2dof I think it has 2 actuators)for him, said it was like 30k when his company bought it for trade shows and such and the employee that would set it up was no longer with the company. So that started my journey into motion sim. I found you and decided to get the P6 I was surprised by the lack of a detailed assembly guide, but I build a lot of things in my shop. I have a youtube channel as well BS in the Shop. czcams.com/users/bstanga
@@bstanga Welcome to the club Brian... sorry about your wallet and what will continue to happen to it now :) Congrats on your channel, it is even bigger than mine (and I seldom admit that in public) :) I had a similar experience looking into those super expensive motion rigs, I think the one we looked at at PRI was like 40k or so and only 4 dof if memory serves. As for the assembly guide, yes always been a thing with DOF... we had nothing on the original SFU upgrade when we got our pre-production unit. I will say the facebook community makes up for it though. If you haven't yet, be sure to join the facebook group dofrealitybuilders facebook.com/groups/1858593921047822 I really think that group is the reason DOF Reality doesn't put more effort into their documentation.
what up my friend its been awhile l didnt have any me time for me and my hobby becuase of my job but all thats change now. im purchasing the dof H3 and have some questions on your setup. (1) on the sabrient power hub how long is the usb chord to plug in the computer and how close does the pc tower need to be to the simulator? for it to plug in ? (2) where did you purchase that plate or did it come with sim that you have the stop button and the flight stick mounted on? because i have the air bus thrustmaster stick the one you were showing its pretty wide and also have the thrustmaster throttle quadrant which is wide also so im going to need a plate for that. i would like to get a plate that is long enough to put both of them and my mouse on it in front of me kind of like a keyboard pull out tray that i have on my pc desk. any suggestions on that ? im also going to be purchasing the monitor mount to gain a little more room. (3) is the simulator software easy to use how does it know when you start your game such as msf to use the motion platform or no motion ? for example if i just want to start msf in my sim seat but dont want motion but use the monitor and play 2D game can i do that? thanks buddy any info will be appreciated. oh by the way im also waiting on my pimax crystal pre order to be shipped out hopefully within a month or 2 for all preorders. i preordered mine in march.
Hi Richard, great to hear from you!!! Congrats on your new purchase and welcome to the club. For the USB Hub I went 15ft. amzn.to/3IudVu6 and then I needed two 16ft for the control boxes to plug into the computer (you will only need one for the H3) amzn.to/43iV7pX As far as how close... however far away that those cables will reach, my computer is about 10 feet away from the platform, but I routed wiring in the rig so that ate up some length. The plate came with my Next Level Racing Wheel Stand and we modified it. I couldn't find the same one I bought but here is something similar that is just the plates. amzn.to/3q1Fy7s. As for a plate, a guy used to make a custom plate I think. I'd recommend asking some people on the dofrealitybuilders facebook group, they probably know more on this kind of thing and what the latest is for mods for that. I'd be careful with any kind of pull out tray as it will move around when your platform moves. The SRS Software is the easiest to use that is out there. It's know for it's user friendliness. Basically you will do an initial setup for any game you want to use and then the software will auto detect when you start that game and load your settings for it. Most titles already have a good default profile but if you want to dig deeper and start customizing your setting to match more your liking you can do that to. I'd recommend you watch my 2 part video with Jeff Weaver if you want to go down that rabbit hole. czcams.com/video/pzi8G7T9p7A/video.html and czcams.com/video/LSStkqpIX_M/video.html As for playing without motion, you can just not start the software. You will want to power the unit on so that it is firm but if you don't start the SRS software it will just sit there. I might add, if you want the advanced features of the SRS "Premium" subscription, there is a price increase coming at the end of the month so go purchase that now and save $5. Hope that helps, good luck my friend. -Mark P.S. can't wait for my Pimax too... next time use my affiliate code pimax.com/?ref=GYGO :)
Great vid! I know you are the right person to ask since you have a good experience in regards to vr/motion rigs. I have a g2 and a buttkicker currently and was wondering if its more worthwhile to upgrade to the varjo aero or get a h2 motion sim rig, which one would you rather have? I do a lot of sim racing and on a budget. Thanks.
Hey Mo Mare, thanks for the question and the views... I can say this is one of the more difficult ones to answer but I'll give you my opinion and you can take it for what it is worth. So my initial gut feeling is to say go to Motion next, but then you say you do a lot of sim racing WHICH THE AERO IS SO GOOD FOR! But realistically for me, adding the motion is such an immersive experience that I'd recommend that as your next step. If you can, try to get the H3... or at least plan for the upgrade ASAP because that extra traction loss of the H3 over the H2 really adds for sim racing and that "seat of the pants" feeling when the car tries to step out on you. Realistically, I'd even recommend going to the H6 Upgrade even before going to the Aero because the HP G2 will get you like 85% of the way to the Aero and the H6 adds so much more like the bumps in the road and the side impact when you hit something (Heave and Sway). Anyway hope that helps, and thanks for being a GYGO viewer!
@@GYGOtv Awesome man, thank you for your insight. I’m actually planning on buying the Yaw2 VR (base model due to cost/space constraints and wife approved) also has pitch and roll just like the h2, most say 2dof is ok for sim racing but not complete is why I’m having a tough time deciding but I’ll go with your opinion and try out motion since it’s what’s missing in my VR rig and looks like you are having a blast every time you’re on it. Thanks again 👍
@@johnmann7o2 No problem... I'd potentially reconsider the Yaw 2 for racing, It's not upgradable in the future to 6 DOF, and I think will end up needing more room than the H2 because of the 360 yaw if you upgrade to that and how far those leg extensions stick out. Also, Yaw is NOT the same as the traction loss feature and this is a key motion from many racing enthusiasts. Even if you can't afford it now, you can upgrade later to the H3 and get that motion out of the rig. You will never be able to get Traction Loss from a Yaw2 from what I can tell. Plus the mounting options might be a little rough for a proper cockpit. The cockpits I've seen for the Yaw 2 are either very flimsy OR they look like a lot of hassle to get in and out of (czcams.com/video/KjyBeraLPgI/video.html ). IMO the Yaw 2 is geared more for flight enthusiasts. You also need to consider you probably can't really ever upgrade to the 360 spin because you may run into issues with your G2 cord as you spin. May I ask what you are looking for out of the Yaw 2? These are just all things I've thought about, but obviously in the end it is up to you.
@@GYGOtv all valid points for sure. It won’t be in a dedicated room unfortunately so it has to be approved by her. Do you think pitch and roll is even worthwhile? The yaw2 base only has that and I won’t be interested in the yaw addition which is extra (the one that spins you around), they did mention a heave base to be added later which looks useful for all sims.
@@johnmann7o2 I totally understand, I'd just hate to see you spend that kind of money and regret it... although I guess that would be possible with the H2 as well. As for just pitch and roll being worth it, YES... Anything that makes you feel like you are no longer stuck to the floor and static is a huge part of increased immersion. My biggest issues with the Yaw2 (and for the record I have only seen it on CZcams, I have no direct knowledge of it) is that it is brand new so nobody knows how stable the controller mounting is, How loud the motors are (my H6 is really quite) and if there are any glaring issues with it. Just please do as much research on it as possible to make sure it fits your needs. I personally think it is going to be a pain to get in and out of, but time will tell. I did hear from DOF that many Yaw2 customers are switching to the DOF because I guess Yaw2 is way behind on their delivery estimates, but isn't everyone these days? I guess in the end, MY goal would be to eventually get to 6 dof because that is where the motion REALLY shines. When you side swipe a car or guardrail and get that jolt from the sway, it is so cool. Running over small bumps in the road that give you that little bounce (Heave) feels just like it does in real life and helps add to the feeling of speed. I know the H2 doesn't have all that, but you can get there eventually with the upgrade kits. And again that traction loss is really an important sensation when racing. Also, research the software it uses to control the motion because the best motion platform in the world doesn't do you any good if it can't talk to the game and get the signals for the motion itself. I know the Sim Racing Studio software (that the DOF uses) has a pretty big user base and has been around for awhile, so there are already a ton of profiles for games that you could just download... I don't know what that looks like on the Yaw2. Again, it is your decision and I'd love to hear what you think of the Yaw2 if you get one. I just know for me I would hold off until the Yaw2 got some miles under it's belt from regular customers before I'd get one. Hope this all helps.
I hope you’re still enjoying your motion rig. Is it still holding up well after a few years? And after you added the SFU gears, did that help with balancing? Do you find adding peripherals (front weight) doesn’t require as much difficulty to balance your rig? Thanks!
Hi Gulf76, yes everything is running great. In fact I just did a long flight session last week in prep for my latest video that I just released on the 4090. Everything seems to be holding up great and all the new parts we added to the SFU Gearboxes are holding up as well. No bent arms or anything like that. As for balancing, you really don't balance an H6 like you do the H3... Basically I have the temp strips on the motors and make sure none of them are getting way hotter than the others and so far it works just fine with everything mounted as I normally would. Hope that answers your questions and thanks for the comment and the view.
@@GYGOtv Great to hear it’s still going strong! Yes, that did answer my questions. Thanks so much! Looking forward to more videos of you enjoying your rig. Likely to be an autumn project for me after I receive my Crystal.
@@GYGOtv while looking what to buy i heard a lot of people complain about the connection between stick and base braking on both that you mentioned, buyer be ware i guess. The VKBs come in a left and right hand version so you can use one as a throttle or buy one vkb and the thrustmaster throttle standalone
@@hanswurst5590 Well I can only speak from my experience and it's been a year and Warthog is still fine. I have heard if you remove the stick from the base a lot then it can have issues, but I leave mine connected. I'll have to look more into the VKB and I also hear Virpil are good too. Just for the record the T.1600 can be a left handed stick as well for those interested in that. Thanks for the info Hans you have me curious about the VKB now!
Where do you connect the 2 wires for emergency stop button and is the wires long enough? If you can give me your email address I can give you my cell number and text you direct because I have a few more questions to ask you if you don’t mind buddy
Hi Richard, The wires plug into the back of the DOF Box(es) We did a custom E-Stop button that I found on Amazon amzn.to/3v59aRz and here are the Connection Cords with the correct ends to plug into the box that we used amzn.to/3OuCAQT. Long enough depends on where you plan to mount everything. You can email me anytime GYGOmail(atsymbol)gmail(dot)com I have to write it that way or the Bots farm it, I think you can figure it out. Looking forward to hearing from you.
@@GYGOtv yes, I use both of your part numbers in the description for the emergency stop button And the 2 pack 6 foot cord order do you have motion compensation hooked up? I’m going to email you my cell number so I can get in touch with you. I really appreciate it buddy.
Hi Mark, I recently purchased the P6 and followed your advice to get a different Stop button.
The Stop button is prewired, has three wires out Blue, White and Green.
The connection cords are two wires Black and Red
So would the correct wiring connection be:
STOP BTN - Connection Cords
--------------
BLUE - BLACK (Connection Cords)
WHITE - RED (Connection Cords)
--------
GREEN - ground
Please let me know if this is like yours or different so I can wire it up properly like yours before use.
I’ve read where either RED OR BLACK is hot as well as BLUE, so I want to ensure it’s wired properly as to not let that magic smoke out…
Many thanks and keep up the great content!
Hi, I'm at Flight Sim Expo right now so can't check. Make sure I didn't leave the correct hookup in either th description or a pinned comment... If not I'll try to answer when I get home. Thanks so much for watching our stuff... Appreciate it!
@@GYGOtvhi Mark, you mention modifications but not by wire colors. After you get back from the expo and get back in the groove of things, if you get a chance and follow up on this, you’ll really help me and others out. I appreciate you reaching out on this post.
@@stephengomes977 Hi Stephen, After looking back on previous replies, what we remember is putting the green wire to the black wire and we think we used the blue wire with the red… not using the white at all. Try it out that way and see if it works. If it is wrong, you will just be backward and you will have to have the switch pushed in to get it to work. If that is the case try using the white wire instead. Hope that helps. I'll pin this comment so it will be easier to find in the future. Please let me know if you got it to work this way so others won't have to wait so long for the answer. Thanks a ton and appreciate your patience while I was at the Expo.
The quality of your videos is absolutely amazing! I haven't seen this detailed description of a sim setup anywhere on the net before - really nice!
Thank you so much for the compliment and taking the time to watch our content! I'm self taught so comments like this really make me feel good about all the work that goes into these. I hope you enjoy some of our other videos too, and maybe even become a regular GYGO viewer. What a great comment to start the week off with!
Great video.Thank you for a lot of useful info. Currently assembling the P6 for flight and racing.
You are welcome... you certainly want to watch this one if you are building now czcams.com/video/RNk-c88FNtA/video.html. This was the one where we show a lot of our core changes. The units are a little different now days but lots of this stuff should still apply if you want to give your P6 a little extra attention. Obviously there is a whole series for the H6 on the channel if you really want to see all the details from our DOF Reality journey. Thank you so much for watching!
Excellent content Mark. I love the idea of the trackpad rather than a trackball or mouse so I bought the one you suggested (hope you get something from the affiliate link). I especially appreciate your well considered reasons for why you opt for some peripherals over others. There are a lot more expensive options with more 'bling' available than the ones you chose but your explainations were great and show that the newest (and usually the more exspensive) is not essential to awesome gaming. I look forward to the next installment and watching your viewership grow. I'd love for you to do a 'idiots guide' to the buttkicker install. I've got one but for the life of me I can't get it working despite plugging it into USB & Audio ports (including via a USB audio driver) and installing the simshaker and buttkicker software.
Thanks for the View and the kind words Stuart! Also appreciate you using the affiliate link, I'm planning some changes for the channel as we get closer to 1000 Subs... Stay Tuned for what the future of GYGO might look like. I'll look at the possibility of the "idiots Guide to the Buttkicker", got about 3 episodes in the planning stages right now but I'll put it on the schedule at some point. What buttkicker are you using, is it a Gamer 2 as well? Let me know and thanks as always for checking out the content.
wow...nearly a thousand subs in a couple of weeks! Bravo. Shows how your content has resonance. I think I was like 93rd! hahah. I look foward to the new content in the future. Re the buttkicker, It shouldn''t be difficult for me to set up and I'm not being lazy, I just think there are some gremlins with this device which may warrant a deeper dive, especially software and I often see forums with people asking install questions so I think I might not be the only one. I have a Buttkicker 2 (with a BKA-130-Ci amp) and when i installed it, the instructions advised to download an app called voicemeeter (vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter) but I haven't seen this app mentioned by anyone since so there may well be a software clash behind my glitches too (I also have Simshaker for IL2 & DCS so there maybe a clash). I'm not sure if voicemeeter app is still relevant or if the new HaptiConnect app from Buttkicker has replaced it and Simshaker etc etc. I just think it might be useful for some clarity for other gamers who may be thinking of getting one (or who have one) and to remove the mystrey of the device/software install. The install instruction manual from Buttkicker looked like it came out of a 70's electrical component so would love to see a breakdown in laymans terms. Thansk Mark
Was waiting for this video, after seeing all the other ones and wondering about your complete setup. I'm really considering the H6 and these videos are really helpful to know where to get started. I might get your exact setup, except for getting some peripherals from a different brand! Thanks man.
No Problem, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos and thanks for being a GYGO viewer! Peripheral choices are so vast and personal that I wouldn't expect anyone to be happy with all the pieces I use. That is why it is so important to make sure you research all your choices and make an educated decision on what would work best for you. I hope this comment section can grow with other people's suggestions and recommendations so other viewers can get various viewpoints. It's funny, peripherals are kind of like VR Headsets... there isn't one "Best" product... the trick is finding the product that is "Best For You". Let me know what you decide on and thanks for the comment. Also, if you are getting close to purchasing an H6, shoot me a quick email so I can fill you in on some behind the scenes things that I can't make public yet. My email is in the description and in the video.
Incredible set up👍
Thanks Clay, lots of work and still more to do... There will be a Part 5 in the future!
Great video! I'm ready glad you included the links as well.
Maybe in a future video, you can show a quick clip how you drilled holes in the equipment for mounting as well.
Well I hope we don't need to drill anymore but this thing is like a hot rod, it seems like we are always modding it. Pretty straight forward on the holes, just drilled them and then put the rivet nuts in the holes. Not much to it other than that. They make a special tool to install the rivet nuts and that makes it super easy!
My Logitech trackball mouse has a lock button on top. It doesn’t turn off the mouse it just turns off the track ball. I have motion and 4 Buttkickers on my racing rig and that feature really helps. I also mounted my trackball mouse vertically so all I do is put my arm down to my side and it’s right there angled perfectly for my hand to rest on it. It’s perfect for VR. I love it.
I thought about a trackball but honestly I love the touchpad because in flight sims it feels more like you are clicking the buttons to me. To each their own I guess. Thanks for watching.
Nice job!!!!
Thanks fondoo, and thanks for watching my content!
Have the T16000m stick since around 2017 - no flaws ever. Great value. Added the TCWS throttle later when it launched. But this year its electronics died. I wouldn't buy it again. It was perfect for Elite Dangerous, though. I agree.
Thanks for the info Themore, what would you recommend instead?
Thanks Mark, you have answered some questions for me,just awaitng customs clearance for the Aero. I can second the suggestion for the VKm Gladiator evo.
Was thinking of the Warthog but way to expensive and the build of the VKB is awaesome. Take Care and the P6 is going well.
Thanks Les, I'll have to look more into those VKB sticks since everyone seems to be talking about them. Do they have any pinkie switches like the Warthog?
@@GYGOtv Les, where does the Aero ship from which required customs clearance?
@@stuartnorman5209 Varjo is based in Finland and I believe the headsets are shipped out of Hong Kong the last I heard. I know things changed (I think temporarily) "Due to Covid"tm and maybe they started shipping from elsewhere while Hong Kong was on lockdown, but I'm not sure of that.
This is great, excellent detail. Also congratulations on some very tidy cable management. EDIT - maybe you have other videos, or in the works, but e.g. for the Buttkicker there is a software to consider - Simhub with different profiles, and also Simshaker sound module (a bit complicated now because the seller is Russian).
Well thank you... I hate messy cables and I appreciate you noticing! Probably spent way too much time doing it but my OCD gets the best of me sometimes (well really most of the time). I also appreciate you commenting and being a GYGO viewer!
Reply to the EDIT... There are so many transducer options out there, there probably could be a whole video on it. I like the simplicity of the Buttkicker and the fact it uses game sound instead of telemetry from software BECAUSE every game has sound and not all have the telemetry. Just my preference... I've seen some pretty impressive setups with multiple transducers, but I've been happy so far with the Buttkicker for just that added touch of immersion. Please keep the suggestions coming, gives viewer different viewpoints other than just mine. Thanks for that!
Now I'm trying to mount logitech x52, do you have a video on that one? It looks like I will use your riv-nut idea. thanks again.
Hello mark, love your content. I'm just getting started with a P6, on the stop switch you reccomend how is it wired? It has 3 wires . thanks
Brian
Thanks Brian, Wow that was a long time ago but hopefully what I can remember will help you. You basically wire it to the “Normally Open” side of the switch so that when you press the Estop Button, it closes the circuit. Here are the parts we used, hope that helps. Emergency Stop Push Button Switch amzn.to/3v59aRz Connection Cords for Emergency Stop Button amzn.to/3OuCAQT
@@GYGOtv Thanks mark, your channel has been my goto since I started this journey. I just got into this about a month ago when a friend asked me to figure out a Ricmotech simulator (2dof I think it has 2 actuators)for him, said it was like 30k when his company bought it for trade shows and such and the employee that would set it up was no longer with the company.
So that started my journey into motion sim. I found you and decided to get the P6 I was surprised by the lack of a detailed assembly guide, but I build a lot of things in my shop. I have a youtube channel as well BS in the Shop. czcams.com/users/bstanga
@@bstanga Welcome to the club Brian... sorry about your wallet and what will continue to happen to it now :) Congrats on your channel, it is even bigger than mine (and I seldom admit that in public) :) I had a similar experience looking into those super expensive motion rigs, I think the one we looked at at PRI was like 40k or so and only 4 dof if memory serves. As for the assembly guide, yes always been a thing with DOF... we had nothing on the original SFU upgrade when we got our pre-production unit. I will say the facebook community makes up for it though. If you haven't yet, be sure to join the facebook group dofrealitybuilders facebook.com/groups/1858593921047822 I really think that group is the reason DOF Reality doesn't put more effort into their documentation.
what up my friend its been awhile l didnt have any me time for me and my hobby becuase of my job but all thats change now. im purchasing the dof H3 and have some questions on your setup. (1) on the sabrient power hub how long is the usb chord to plug in the computer and how close does the pc tower need to be to the simulator? for it to plug in ? (2) where did you purchase that plate or did it come with sim that you have the stop button and the flight stick mounted on? because i have the air bus thrustmaster stick the one you were showing its pretty wide and also have the thrustmaster throttle quadrant which is wide also so im going to need a plate for that. i would like to get a plate that is long enough to put both of them and my mouse on it in front of me kind of like a keyboard pull out tray that i have on my pc desk. any suggestions on that ? im also going to be purchasing the monitor mount to gain a little more room. (3) is the simulator software easy to use how does it know when you start your game such as msf to use the motion platform or no motion ? for example if i just want to start msf in my sim seat but dont want motion but use the monitor and play 2D game can i do that? thanks buddy any info will be appreciated. oh by the way im also waiting on my pimax crystal pre order to be shipped out hopefully within a month or 2 for all preorders. i preordered mine in march.
Hi Richard, great to hear from you!!! Congrats on your new purchase and welcome to the club. For the USB Hub I went 15ft. amzn.to/3IudVu6 and then I needed two 16ft for the control boxes to plug into the computer (you will only need one for the H3) amzn.to/43iV7pX As far as how close... however far away that those cables will reach, my computer is about 10 feet away from the platform, but I routed wiring in the rig so that ate up some length.
The plate came with my Next Level Racing Wheel Stand and we modified it. I couldn't find the same one I bought but here is something similar that is just the plates. amzn.to/3q1Fy7s. As for a plate, a guy used to make a custom plate I think. I'd recommend asking some people on the dofrealitybuilders facebook group, they probably know more on this kind of thing and what the latest is for mods for that. I'd be careful with any kind of pull out tray as it will move around when your platform moves.
The SRS Software is the easiest to use that is out there. It's know for it's user friendliness. Basically you will do an initial setup for any game you want to use and then the software will auto detect when you start that game and load your settings for it. Most titles already have a good default profile but if you want to dig deeper and start customizing your setting to match more your liking you can do that to. I'd recommend you watch my 2 part video with Jeff Weaver if you want to go down that rabbit hole. czcams.com/video/pzi8G7T9p7A/video.html and czcams.com/video/LSStkqpIX_M/video.html
As for playing without motion, you can just not start the software. You will want to power the unit on so that it is firm but if you don't start the SRS software it will just sit there.
I might add, if you want the advanced features of the SRS "Premium" subscription, there is a price increase coming at the end of the month so go purchase that now and save $5.
Hope that helps, good luck my friend.
-Mark
P.S. can't wait for my Pimax too... next time use my affiliate code pimax.com/?ref=GYGO :)
Great vid! I know you are the right person to ask since you have a good experience in regards to vr/motion rigs. I have a g2 and a buttkicker currently and was wondering if its more worthwhile to upgrade to the varjo aero or get a h2 motion sim rig, which one would you rather have? I do a lot of sim racing and on a budget. Thanks.
Hey Mo Mare, thanks for the question and the views... I can say this is one of the more difficult ones to answer but I'll give you my opinion and you can take it for what it is worth. So my initial gut feeling is to say go to Motion next, but then you say you do a lot of sim racing WHICH THE AERO IS SO GOOD FOR! But realistically for me, adding the motion is such an immersive experience that I'd recommend that as your next step. If you can, try to get the H3... or at least plan for the upgrade ASAP because that extra traction loss of the H3 over the H2 really adds for sim racing and that "seat of the pants" feeling when the car tries to step out on you. Realistically, I'd even recommend going to the H6 Upgrade even before going to the Aero because the HP G2 will get you like 85% of the way to the Aero and the H6 adds so much more like the bumps in the road and the side impact when you hit something (Heave and Sway). Anyway hope that helps, and thanks for being a GYGO viewer!
@@GYGOtv Awesome man, thank you for your insight. I’m actually planning on buying the Yaw2 VR (base model due to cost/space constraints and wife approved) also has pitch and roll just like the h2, most say 2dof is ok for sim racing but not complete is why I’m having a tough time deciding but I’ll go with your opinion and try out motion since it’s what’s missing in my VR rig and looks like you are having a blast every time you’re on it. Thanks again 👍
@@johnmann7o2 No problem... I'd potentially reconsider the Yaw 2 for racing, It's not upgradable in the future to 6 DOF, and I think will end up needing more room than the H2 because of the 360 yaw if you upgrade to that and how far those leg extensions stick out. Also, Yaw is NOT the same as the traction loss feature and this is a key motion from many racing enthusiasts. Even if you can't afford it now, you can upgrade later to the H3 and get that motion out of the rig. You will never be able to get Traction Loss from a Yaw2 from what I can tell. Plus the mounting options might be a little rough for a proper cockpit. The cockpits I've seen for the Yaw 2 are either very flimsy OR they look like a lot of hassle to get in and out of (czcams.com/video/KjyBeraLPgI/video.html ). IMO the Yaw 2 is geared more for flight enthusiasts. You also need to consider you probably can't really ever upgrade to the 360 spin because you may run into issues with your G2 cord as you spin. May I ask what you are looking for out of the Yaw 2? These are just all things I've thought about, but obviously in the end it is up to you.
@@GYGOtv all valid points for sure. It won’t be in a dedicated room unfortunately so it has to be approved by her. Do you think pitch and roll is even worthwhile? The yaw2 base only has that and I won’t be interested in the yaw addition which is extra (the one that spins you around), they did mention a heave base to be added later which looks useful for all sims.
@@johnmann7o2 I totally understand, I'd just hate to see you spend that kind of money and regret it... although I guess that would be possible with the H2 as well. As for just pitch and roll being worth it, YES... Anything that makes you feel like you are no longer stuck to the floor and static is a huge part of increased immersion. My biggest issues with the Yaw2 (and for the record I have only seen it on CZcams, I have no direct knowledge of it) is that it is brand new so nobody knows how stable the controller mounting is, How loud the motors are (my H6 is really quite) and if there are any glaring issues with it. Just please do as much research on it as possible to make sure it fits your needs. I personally think it is going to be a pain to get in and out of, but time will tell. I did hear from DOF that many Yaw2 customers are switching to the DOF because I guess Yaw2 is way behind on their delivery estimates, but isn't everyone these days? I guess in the end, MY goal would be to eventually get to 6 dof because that is where the motion REALLY shines. When you side swipe a car or guardrail and get that jolt from the sway, it is so cool. Running over small bumps in the road that give you that little bounce (Heave) feels just like it does in real life and helps add to the feeling of speed. I know the H2 doesn't have all that, but you can get there eventually with the upgrade kits. And again that traction loss is really an important sensation when racing. Also, research the software it uses to control the motion because the best motion platform in the world doesn't do you any good if it can't talk to the game and get the signals for the motion itself. I know the Sim Racing Studio software (that the DOF uses) has a pretty big user base and has been around for awhile, so there are already a ton of profiles for games that you could just download... I don't know what that looks like on the Yaw2. Again, it is your decision and I'd love to hear what you think of the Yaw2 if you get one. I just know for me I would hold off until the Yaw2 got some miles under it's belt from regular customers before I'd get one. Hope this all helps.
I hope you’re still enjoying your motion rig. Is it still holding up well after a few years? And after you added the SFU gears, did that help with balancing? Do you find adding peripherals (front weight) doesn’t require as much difficulty to balance your rig? Thanks!
Hi Gulf76, yes everything is running great. In fact I just did a long flight session last week in prep for my latest video that I just released on the 4090. Everything seems to be holding up great and all the new parts we added to the SFU Gearboxes are holding up as well. No bent arms or anything like that. As for balancing, you really don't balance an H6 like you do the H3... Basically I have the temp strips on the motors and make sure none of them are getting way hotter than the others and so far it works just fine with everything mounted as I normally would. Hope that answers your questions and thanks for the comment and the view.
@@GYGOtv Great to hear it’s still going strong! Yes, that did answer my questions. Thanks so much! Looking forward to more videos of you enjoying your rig. Likely to be an autumn project for me after I receive my Crystal.
go for the vkb gladiator nxt premiums rather than t.16k (might also be better than the warthog)
Thanks for the suggestion Hans, might be a good choice for some, but still pretty expensive just for the joystick without the throttle.
@@GYGOtv while looking what to buy i heard a lot of people complain about the connection between stick and base braking on both that you mentioned, buyer be ware i guess. The VKBs come in a left and right hand version so you can use one as a throttle or buy one vkb and the thrustmaster throttle standalone
@@hanswurst5590 Well I can only speak from my experience and it's been a year and Warthog is still fine. I have heard if you remove the stick from the base a lot then it can have issues, but I leave mine connected. I'll have to look more into the VKB and I also hear Virpil are good too. Just for the record the T.1600 can be a left handed stick as well for those interested in that. Thanks for the info Hans you have me curious about the VKB now!
Where do you connect the 2 wires for emergency stop button and is the wires long enough? If you can give me your email address I can give you my cell number and text you direct because I have a few more questions to ask you if you don’t mind buddy
Hi Richard, The wires plug into the back of the DOF Box(es) We did a custom E-Stop button that I found on Amazon amzn.to/3v59aRz and here are the Connection Cords with the correct ends to plug into the box that we used amzn.to/3OuCAQT. Long enough depends on where you plan to mount everything. You can email me anytime GYGOmail(atsymbol)gmail(dot)com I have to write it that way or the Bots farm it, I think you can figure it out. Looking forward to hearing from you.
@@GYGOtv yes, I use both of your part numbers in the description for the emergency stop button And the 2 pack 6 foot cord order do you have motion compensation hooked up? I’m going to email you my cell number so I can get in touch with you. I really appreciate it buddy.
@@richardPalmisano Still sorting out Motion Comp, you might want to look at ordering a Witmotion Sensor if you need MC too.