If I'm ever asked by someone if I wanted to go back to their place to "look at their warranty stickers collection", I'm not sure I'd be able to resist..
Can't wait to see a Chinese LED actually come out as rated. The world waits.. Thanks for the info on the sound issues. Changed setting and I'm hearing you perfectly now..
I would love to see you do a tutorial showing simple ways to boost the output of these small led work lights. Doesn't have to be to the wattage they originally claim, though that would be nice, but to an amount that is closer than they come standard with.
Hi Clive, I've watched almost all your videos and found them very interesting and useful espically when I'm repairing classic arcade machines. I wonder if you might like to create a short one about electrical safety. For example how do fuses work (included resisitors used as fuses), what is double insulation, why do we need an earth wire, when should you use an isolation transformer, what does 'Referenced to Mains' mean. These are all terms that crop up in your videos and it would be useful to have a good overview of the topic. That is if you think it makes worthwhile content for your channel. All the best Nick
Have you thought about bypassing the battery and attempting to run the lamp at the "rated" 10w off the bench PS just to see if it can handle it? Also...the unit probably had a 2nd battery but it was removed from the unit to lower the cost which would explain the very low 3w that it has now.
Not a bad little light honestly. I recently bought one of the previous 10w works lights you reviewed and while it only outputs 7w it works very nicely for what I wanted it for. In fact I'm half tempted to order another one and figure out a way to mount it to my snow blower.
Sorry no I don't. I just decided to order two more of the other style instead. All three put put between 7.5-8w which isn't really all that bad for a cheap light.
Trying to beat up the big bag at the gym again? Glad you found that there was no seal on the heat sink. I'd been leaning towards getting one to play with. I hate adding silicone caulking, although marine caulking works great.
It looks like something I would tape shut in the middle with a thin bit of medical tape. I thought I saw a stitch in there, but it looks loose if there is one.
I think this runs more along the lines of the 50,000,000mw burning lasers you can get on AliExpress. In truth they aren't even close. I bought one and tested it's draw to be 850ma at 4.24v. This calculates out to 3604mw which is far more likely for a UV laser diode with decent heat dissipation via the aluminum body. It does get pretty warm and goes through 18650 battery charges pretty fast. It's still nowhere near the power that it's advertised to be.
Is there anything on the LED lamp to indicate it's rating? Since they are only running it at 3W there would seem little point of fitting a higher rated lamp, unless one just happens to be cheaper.
Looks like it might be a nice candidate to swap in a Cree XM-L2 LED, in a little warmer tint (I really like under-driving LEDs), and personally, I'd probably rewire so that the charge circuit also goes through the resistor so it was less picky about the USB supply current limit, and see if a 2nd 18650 cell would fit above the first one though it looks like there may not be enough room. To waterproof the back you could lay a bead of silicone caulking, then fasten it back together when the caulking has half set firm. The way the light is made, you shouldn't really ever need to get the heatsink back off again.
Was just thinking to get one of these off aliexpress but the 20W version. By looking at the video it does not seem like a good deal anymore. I need a rechargeable LED floodlight which is quite slim for camping, any suggestions?
In situations like this I think they're referring to an equivalency of lumens from an incandescent bulb. If you were to put a ten watt bulb in a reflector like that one and check the brightness, they might be similar. Conversely they could just be trying to hype the item up beyond it's specs so more people will buy it which I suspect to be far more likely. As for the seal in the back, a dab of silicone would do the trick nicely and should be easy enough to apply if you wanted to shore up it's shortcomings.
The Screwfix rechargeable 23w LED lamp has a decent 6 x 18650 battery pack that lasts about 4 hours and is slimline, costs about £30. Worth a look if you want a reasonably decent work lamp, I had thought of getting something off ebay but thought after seeing Clive's helpful vids on these lamps that I'd pay a bit more, Model AEO295. Hmm I sound like I work for screwfix, I don't honest. :D
I wonder if silicone caulk would work for the back gasket? I have seen some that are made to peel off so after the winter it comes easily off window paint etc. with no damage.
That's just silly, them "forgetting" to put a silicone gasket in the rear like that. Much potential squandered, although easily fixed with a tube of RTV, and a better LED as you suggested. :) Thanks for the teardown!
You multiplied the voltage drop across the resistor times the voltage drop across the LED, and somehow found the power, eh? They must have developed a new Ohm's law XD
swiss Pardon me but is that not exactly the same maths. But written differently? (I am not trolling. I'm asking because i honestly want to know.) Maths is by no means one of my strong suits, but i thought that V x V was the same as V². Am i missing something?
I noticed that too. The LED power was actually 0.8V/1.2 Ohm x 2.95V = 1.97W. V²/R (or V x V / R, same thing) is of course the power in the resistor if V is the voltage across the rresistor.
Is your hand ok? It looks like the wound is getting bigger based on your videos. I mean you could have recorded this one a while ago but it still looks concerning.
I've recently acquired a few Chinese devices with seemingly decent power supplies, but don't want to keep using Deathdapters to power them, I was wondering what your thoughts on buying a Chinese power strip and changing the plug to a standard fused UK plug?
It's funny how the listing contradicts itself. It states 10W power, 4h of operation. That would require 40 Wh of energy. But its battery is stated as 8.4V / 2200mAh. That's just 18.48 Wh. And on the top of it, 2x 18650 was probably reduced to 1x 18650 later in the production to cut the costs even more :D.
Hey Clive, wondering if you could do a video on the "USB Killer"? Not sure if you have heard of the item before but it basically kills anything it is plugged into. Might make an interesting video!
no i dont think so, i have an older one, that is more like 5w from a promised 10w, has 2 lithium batterys, runs 2-3 hours, and more metal in the casing, this review seems to be an even cheaper made one, to look the same, but more cost cutting and even worse led. clive did do a review some months ago of the more common version , often sold in B&q, screwfix and other major outlets.
That is pretty spiffy! Couldn't one simply "goop" the back with a bit of RTV sealant to seal it up better? If that's the only minus then it still seems to be pretty darn good. That front seal is pretty legit, so a little DIY seems a decent trade off on this one.
Ello, I recognise that USB charger..... barring printed markings, it looks exactly the same one as I used to get from my e-cig shop. which I have actually thrown them all away (I now use the ones from Wilcos at £2.50 a pop, and no issues since), as I kept getting various issues with them, and especially if I plugged any mobile phone in to them..... they ALL refused to charge (Samsung, Motorola / Lenovo, and Blackberry). I suspect it's output voltage / ampage is quite unstable. Maybe an idea to do a teardown on the mains charger Clive, and see what is what.
I have one of these lights and it is bright. It wasn't very expensive, so after watching you hack one of these I figured I would do the same thing. I opened up my light and it has two 18650 cells that are wired in with a small single cell protection board. Like most there is a lot of room, so I decided to whack in another cell and to my surprise the extra battery killed the protection board. So I took all the batteries out and tested them. The two that came with the light had only 1300 mah each and they were of poor quality. They looked like factory rejects, you know ones that don't make the grade for sale. One of them even rattles. So I put three new 3000 mah Samsung cells in it and called it a day. It works well and it lasts much longer than it did originally, but no battery protection, but the charger only puts out 4.2 volts at .493 of am amp, so I am not worried about over charging them, but there is no lower protection, so the batteries can fully discharge if I am not careful.
uh clive can ya give me a explenation i have those 3 LEDs rotating lights those RGB lights the leds just dont light up when all 3 are hooked in series all 3 leds are working fine i changed the wires board nothing works
so, if that LED is being run at just under three watts, what can be said about its life expectancy if you were to modify the unit to run at the advertised ten watts?
I might be interested in getting ahold of one of these lamps and hooking them into a bench supply just to see if they could even take ten watts. And for how long. It is cooled by the heatsink after all.
Hey Clive have you done a tear down of one of these remote controlled led party type bulbs? I dug around on your channel a bunch but couldn't quite find what I was looking for. I believe they're e26 type sockets here in the US. Keep running across a guy here on CZcams demonstrating two little free energy "resonators." I know it's a scam but I'm interested in trying to find out where he's hidden the battery. I think he's just removed the ac to dc converter and put a small cell in its place. It's super obvious but still driving me bat shit haha. I appreciate your time and love your work here in CZcams.
Since there's obviously a channel for a seal, could "yours" just be a case of sloppy assembly (forgot to put in the rear seal)? It would seem pointless having the added complexity of a seal channel machined into the injection mould then deliberately not using it.
" It would seem pointless having the added complexity of a seal channel machined into the injection mould then deliberately not using it. " Unless it was a simple mold-clone of another work light, or re-use of a mold intended for a legit manufacturer. In that cases it'd be more work to remove the channel. But I think it's more likely Clive got a defective one, over the conscious decision to put a single gasket in.
This reminds me of my battery driven, USB chargable desklight I bought from china. It looks good, the gooseneck is even enclosured by plastic, making it easier to use and to look at. 3 brightness levels, nice design and 3 hours runtime at maximum brightness! .....except for the 3 hours everything else is right. It only runs for about 10 minutes at full light, then loses brightness until it is unusable after 30 minutes..... And I thought paying 10€ would be enough to get quality ;__; Opened up the light to see how small the battery is. It is not small, it is just a god damn lead acid battery! Never expected such a thing, a 400mAh lead acid battery, lol. It even is named "GB-1135" and also listed on the manufacturer's website. Because I didn't want such battery (which was directly connected to the USB 5V, was even able to use the light as a power source, the USB charger doctor was still lit after plugging it out of the power bank showing 4,2V :D Then I ordered 2x Sony Konion 2,6Ah 18650 batteries from amazon, 5x 18650 charger boards with protection and all from ebay and some cables. Installed it all in the light using every last space there was in it, rendering the touch button unusable, until I just laid another bit of cable out of a hole i drilled with the screwdriver and just taping it on the ex-touch button. The light can now charge with up to 2A and lasts so long, I have not even charged it anymore than just once at the beginning. And the base became heavier, improving the stability when you bend the gooseneck! Although not a big difference because the lead acid battery is really not light. Did not explode by now, so I guess it works!
Around here when you buy a CFL or LED light bulb the claimed equivalent to incandescent rating is in much bigger print than the actual power consumption. I think it is because the majority of people either don't care to educate themselves or aren't bright enough to grasp the difference between watts and lumens so they just want to know how what they are buying relates to what they bought 10 years ago. That said, you could be right about false advertising. Stretching the facts isn't anything new. When I was studying electronics in the '70s the power ratings of amplifiers were usually given as RMS or peak but less scrupulous manufacturers used the peak to peak rating, giving rise to the term "Lloyds watt", which was typically about 1/3 of RMS.... Hey, your 3W light was rated at 10W - maybe these guys are rating their LEDs in Lloyds watts ;-)
Awake past witching hour! super full moon tonight. 🌕 Typical Chinese ebay 10watts = 3watts , like the cheap power cords that are rated 10amps but likely to over heat at 3amps.
how would doubling the batteries double the brightness? the LED's are running at capacity. it can only double the run time. also they have a 1 ohm resistor in series between the LED and the Battery so that will have to be replaced with a current limiting buck regulator if the batteries are connected in series. they stopped when they had to. perhaps the
Clive you've had 55.5K views so people must respect your testing and opinions. Having looked at these units in your opinion what would be the best buy taking everything into account?
It's hard to say which is best. My preference is for the lower voltage single cell (or cluster of parallel cell) types for simplicity, especially with a USB recharge option. But for serious industrial use with fast recharge and long run time the expensive industrial ones are better.
Full battery gives 2.8W, nearly flat gives 0.5W. Average power is then 1.65W. Then the "Chinese Watt to Real Watt ratio" is 10 / 1.65 = cca 6. (6 Chinese watts = 1 real watt). :D Seems that this ratio gets higher and higher each year.
Maybe they are quoting the equivalent brightness of a 10W incandescent lamp You could drop that heatsink out, put a bead of silicone on the plastic, and a thin smear of vaseline on the heatsink, (just squash lightly at fist till it sets before fully tightening) then it can still be taken apart if needed.
but a 10W tungsten would be horrible for a floor standing working light - even the old tungsten pygmy bulbs were 15W and they were only about as strong as a cigarette lighter
Is there any LED flood lights on eBay that are what they say they are? I want to buy my mother a 100 watt one for Christmas to replace her 500 watt outdoor Halogen I purchased for her in 1996 and has been broken for a decade now. Any ideas?
Dark Alchemist I guess it's not just the wattage that matters. I'd go for a branded one anyway for that intended use, maybe 50 Watt will be just fine. You not fixing her lamp earlier did save her a fortune on her power bill by not using a 500 watt lamp for a decade! :)
***** It takes 100 watt to equal the lumens of the 500 watt Halogen and I don't know of any trusted brands that put out what they say and various brands I have looked at are up to 200 dollars which is just beyond stupid.
I just won an auction for a 100 watt (2x50 cob) Floodlight and I asked about the wiring and if it was for 120Vac US (sold from a seller in the US but was a drop seller) and I said I would be testing it to make sure it was really 100 Watts +/- 5% when I get it and I was immediately refunded my Paypal (immediately as in 1 minute). This shit has to stop where these sellers are selling something based on lies.
the danger most of the time comes when charging so safe storage and charging practices reduce the risk. But remember it's not just cheap chinese batteries that are the problem as shown by the recent problem at samsung anything with li-ion has a risk phones, laptops, tablets, gps, cameras etc
True. But with that said, I'm not worried about my thinkpad exploding. Or a dozen other items that have millions of "man hours" used on them by 10, 20, 30 millions of people. But a trinket from china is much more likely to set of fire with the shortcuts in the battery protection. I think we all can agree with that. Say I was using this in an attic, and it caught fire. That's the kinda of issue I worry about. Not "safe storage" or "charging" of a widely popular device. At least with a Samung note 7, I know it's a 0.1% chance. No so with with a device like this. So I'll stand by what I said, and dispute your post for good reason. ;)
In case of Galaxy Note 7 ATL (Chinese) batteries are considered safe (no accident occurred with them), they recall models with Samsung SDI batteries (manufactured in Korea or in Vietnam) which was cause of problems (70% of Galaxy Note 7 use them) and all cases of accident occurred only on phones with SDI batteries. If you are concerned about fire still better to use Chinese devices with Chinese LiPo batteries then to use something Boeing designed (and they use Korean batteries I think) there battery fire happens on 5% of products. :)
GeorgeGraves I've never known anyone have a lithium cell item catch fire, and I've seen people short those cells and charge them with the wrong charger. Clive's home is probably filled to the rafters with dodgy Chinese electronics and he hasn't burned to death yet. although I suspect the mark on his hand could be from putting out a fire
I've seen those at Young Supply Company here in Michigan, but thought it looked to much like cheap plastic for the $60 they want for it. If it was only $20, than maybe....
What i dont get is, why didnt they put in a real 10w led? The casing is robust enough, and it seems pretty likely all the money has gone into the casing. As well as a beefy heatsink... Just seems strange
Hey Clive, Did you check with the seller about this? Usually they give you a refund if you find something is off with the item, especially on ebay. I ordered two different but in design similar lamps and I'm eager to check it also. They are advertised as 30W lamps :D :D :D
8:22 - 9:27 Hang on... so if the voltage at the supply output is 4.5V, the resistor is dropping 1.2V, and the voltage drop across the LED is 3V, then that means you have almost 0.3 Ohms of series resistance in your power leads. I don't know about you, but that strikes me as a tiny bit high. You might want to look into that, as high supply resistance has sometimes caused me problems with feedback-controlled devices breaking into oscillation. Measuring my own PSU and supply leads ( 3ft each), I was measuring close to about 0.05 Ohms.
bigclivedotcom Ah, okay. That makes more sense. Analog or digital? I've definitely seen analog meters that were off by as much as 10% or more. I know folks who just keep a DMM connected to the output of their PSU on a semi-permanent basis.
A bit disappointed that you didn't try to run the led at 10W.
He ran it on full voltage (with a cable, not the battery) and calculated the output from that. Don't expect the impossible.
thats a really cool worklight, i didnt know they made ones like that.
Nice to see the old Stanley screw driver still going, my dad is still using them, Great vid as usual Clive.
If I'm ever asked by someone if I wanted to go back to their place to "look at their warranty stickers collection", I'm not sure I'd be able to resist..
Can't wait to see a Chinese LED actually come out as rated. The world waits.. Thanks for the info on the sound issues. Changed setting and I'm hearing you perfectly now..
watched this one the wrong way round, glad you put on a plaster for the green version!
love our channel keep up the good work I my self love to take stuff apart and see how it works
I would love to see you do a tutorial showing simple ways to boost the output of these small led work lights. Doesn't have to be to the wattage they originally claim, though that would be nice, but to an amount that is closer than they come standard with.
One more thing, usally you give a name/link of the product you reviewed, did I miss that here is was it not included?
Thanks Clive!
I usually watch random electronics videos on CZcams, helps me sleep ;-)
Great video Clive..Cheers..
Hi Clive, I've watched almost all your videos and found them very interesting and useful espically when I'm repairing classic arcade machines. I wonder if you might like to create a short one about electrical safety. For example how do fuses work (included resisitors used as fuses), what is double insulation, why do we need an earth wire, when should you use an isolation transformer, what does 'Referenced to Mains' mean. These are all terms that crop up in your videos and it would be useful to have a good overview of the topic. That is if you think it makes worthwhile content for your channel. All the best Nick
Clivey, put the heating on, its freezing!!! ;-) Good vid, keep um coming.
Have you thought about bypassing the battery and attempting to run the lamp at the "rated" 10w off the bench PS just to see if it can handle it?
Also...the unit probably had a 2nd battery but it was removed from the unit to lower the cost which would explain the very low 3w that it has now.
Not a bad little light honestly. I recently bought one of the previous 10w works lights you reviewed and while it only outputs 7w it works very nicely for what I wanted it for. In fact I'm half tempted to order another one and figure out a way to mount it to my snow blower.
LtKernelPanic I'm all with you on the 'works good enough for the intended purpose' camp.
LtKernelPanic hi, do you have a link to this 7w version?
Sorry no I don't. I just decided to order two more of the other style instead. All three put put between 7.5-8w which isn't really all that bad for a cheap light.
Time to add a silastic bead to it for a seal with the green upgrade.
Horay!! Back to LED stuff!
Hope your hand gets better soon. Cheers
great video! keep up the good work!
Trying to beat up the big bag at the gym again? Glad you found that there was no seal on the heat sink. I'd been leaning towards getting one to play with. I hate adding silicone caulking, although marine caulking works great.
How did you cut your hand? By the looks of it right now, I imagine it was quite nasty. Have a fast recovery, Clive.
It looks like something I would tape shut in the middle with a thin bit of medical tape. I thought I saw a stitch in there, but it looks loose if there is one.
A razor edge cut that size isn't bad, but for the looks of it, seems like a cut by a blow from something not that sharp.
In a previous video he said he was hitting the vheavy bag in the gym.
He splits his knuckles on the heavy bag all the time.
Don't mess with BigClive.
;-)
Some fisticuffs action huh?
Very Interesting.
what did you do to your hand. poor thing. is the blood coming out or are you bleeding or leaking
I kind of like this one....Clive any chance you have a link to purchase it?
nice light
Sounds like a 10 Watt-Hour lamp, rather than a 10 Watt lamp. 10Wh is about the capacity for a typical 18650 (Or just a smidge over 8 in this case)
Zadster Except that's not what they claimed, of course.
I think this runs more along the lines of the 50,000,000mw burning lasers you can get on AliExpress. In truth they aren't even close. I bought one and tested it's draw to be 850ma at 4.24v. This calculates out to 3604mw which is far more likely for a UV laser diode with decent heat dissipation via the aluminum body. It does get pretty warm and goes through 18650 battery charges pretty fast. It's still nowhere near the power that it's advertised to be.
Try to run the led at 10W and see if it burns.
Also I'd love to see a video where you seal this up and also fit a second cell in it.
Hmm. Might have to pick one of these up
Hey mate what do you do with all the stuff you review!? :)
Guessing by the fact that it ran for 4 hours on a single 18650 which typically
has a capacity around 10 Wh the led can't draw more than 2.5 watts.
Is there anything on the LED lamp to indicate it's rating?
Since they are only running it at 3W there would seem little point of fitting a higher rated lamp, unless one just happens to be cheaper.
Looks like it might be a nice candidate to swap in a Cree XM-L2 LED, in a little warmer tint (I really like under-driving LEDs), and personally, I'd probably rewire so that the charge circuit also goes through the resistor so it was less picky about the USB supply current limit, and see if a 2nd 18650 cell would fit above the first one though it looks like there may not be enough room.
To waterproof the back you could lay a bead of silicone caulking, then fasten it back together when the caulking has half set firm. The way the light is made, you shouldn't really ever need to get the heatsink back off again.
I would like to have a light like this one, can you recommend a brand name?
Was just thinking to get one of these off aliexpress but the 20W version. By looking at the video it does not seem like a good deal anymore. I need a rechargeable LED floodlight which is quite slim for camping, any suggestions?
do you have a link to this? I would like to maybe get one to mess with
2Ah, lasts for 4 hours. That would make it less than 2W average, right? Or 10 China watts. :)
Skräcken - I think they're eBay watts...
In situations like this I think they're referring to an equivalency of lumens from an incandescent bulb. If you were to put a ten watt bulb in a reflector like that one and check the brightness, they might be similar. Conversely they could just be trying to hype the item up beyond it's specs so more people will buy it which I suspect to be far more likely. As for the seal in the back, a dab of silicone would do the trick nicely and should be easy enough to apply if you wanted to shore up it's shortcomings.
How long will it last? Thanks.
have you done the usb killer yet, whats in it , why do they make them ?
Would it be possible to show us how to add the extra battery and make it switchable for longer run time or greater brightness?
The Screwfix rechargeable 23w LED lamp has a decent 6 x 18650 battery pack that lasts about 4 hours and is slimline, costs about £30. Worth a look if you want a reasonably decent work lamp, I had thought of getting something off ebay but thought after seeing Clive's helpful vids on these lamps that I'd pay a bit more, Model AEO295. Hmm I sound like I work for screwfix, I don't honest. :D
10 watt or 10 watt replacement?
I wonder if silicone caulk would work for the back gasket? I have seen some that are made to peel off so after the winter it comes easily off window paint etc. with no damage.
I would just smear the thing with marine grease, should work just fine and does not hinder opening the unit.
Don't go to bed! you have not shown the charging circuit for the battery! Just kidding. Good work!
That's just silly, them "forgetting" to put a silicone gasket in the rear like that. Much potential squandered, although easily fixed with a tube of RTV, and a better LED as you suggested. :) Thanks for the teardown!
Brilliant video, only this weekend Lidl are selling this light for £24:99 and claiming it to be 10w. I wonder🤔
+bigclivedotcom Clive, I noticed a sealing cap for the charging port, but how waterproof is the power switch? Hopefully better than the heatsink.
You multiplied the voltage drop across the resistor times the voltage drop across the LED, and somehow found the power, eh? They must have developed a new Ohm's law XD
Yes, I know the resistor was almost 1 ohm, but still, power is V times I, not V times V. The resistor was 1.2 which introduces error.
(V^V)/R=P
Edit: Oops typo...
Meant V*V o V^2
m8e
That's wrong. It's V²/R=P
swiss Pardon me but is that not exactly the same maths. But written differently? (I am not trolling. I'm asking because i honestly want to know.)
Maths is by no means one of my strong suits, but i thought that V x V was the same as V².
Am i missing something?
I noticed that too. The LED power was actually 0.8V/1.2 Ohm x 2.95V = 1.97W. V²/R (or V x V / R, same thing) is of course the power in the resistor if V is the voltage across the rresistor.
Hope all is well.
Nice cut you got there :)
Is your hand ok? It looks like the wound is getting bigger based on your videos. I mean you could have recorded this one a while ago but it still looks concerning.
bdot02 indeed
Clive, i have a touch sensitive electric hob, how do the touch areas work under the glass? , there are no buttons, just a printed area where to touch
Usually capacitive sensing where your finger acts as the plate of a capacitor to couple between two electrodes.
Thanks for the review! Now, go and enjoy your well deserved sleep :)
I've recently acquired a few Chinese devices with seemingly decent power supplies, but don't want to keep using Deathdapters to power them, I was wondering what your thoughts on buying a Chinese power strip and changing the plug to a standard fused UK plug?
That sounds viable if you can get a decent one.
I cant find these on banggood, anyone got a link?
thats a right hole on your hand how did that happen
It's funny how the listing contradicts itself. It states 10W power, 4h of operation. That would require 40 Wh of energy. But its battery is stated as 8.4V / 2200mAh. That's just 18.48 Wh. And on the top of it, 2x 18650 was probably reduced to 1x 18650 later in the production to cut the costs even more :D.
Hey Clive, wondering if you could do a video on the "USB Killer"? Not sure if you have heard of the item before but it basically kills anything it is plugged into. Might make an interesting video!
is this the B&Q one £25? I'm pleased with mine, also seen for £50 from. mobile tool vans !
no i dont think so, i have an older one, that is more like 5w from a promised 10w, has 2 lithium batterys, runs 2-3 hours, and more metal in the casing, this review seems to be an even cheaper made one, to look the same, but more cost cutting and even worse led. clive did do a review some months ago of the more common version , often sold in B&q, screwfix and other major outlets.
That is pretty spiffy!
Couldn't one simply "goop" the back with a bit of RTV sealant to seal it up better?
If that's the only minus then it still seems to be pretty darn good.
That front seal is pretty legit, so a little DIY seems a decent trade off on this one.
Ello, I recognise that USB charger..... barring printed markings, it looks exactly the same one as I used to get from my e-cig shop. which I have actually thrown them all away (I now use the ones from Wilcos at £2.50 a pop, and no issues since), as I kept getting various issues with them, and especially if I plugged any mobile phone in to them..... they ALL refused to charge (Samsung, Motorola / Lenovo, and Blackberry). I suspect it's output voltage / ampage is quite unstable. Maybe an idea to do a teardown on the mains charger Clive, and see what is what.
I have one of these lights and it is bright. It wasn't very expensive, so after watching you hack one of these I figured I would do the same thing. I opened up my light and it has two 18650 cells that are wired in with a small single cell protection board. Like most there is a lot of room, so I decided to whack in another cell and to my surprise the extra battery killed the protection board. So I took all the batteries out and tested them. The two that came with the light had only 1300 mah each and they were of poor quality. They looked like factory rejects, you know ones that don't make the grade for sale. One of them even rattles. So I put three new 3000 mah Samsung cells in it and called it a day. It works well and it lasts much longer than it did originally, but no battery protection, but the charger only puts out 4.2 volts at .493 of am amp, so I am not worried about over charging them, but there is no lower protection, so the batteries can fully discharge if I am not careful.
You might try this LED on about 3.2V and measure the current going through. It may actually be just underpowered 10W LED.
that's a nasty gash on your knuckle , did the apprentice talk back again ?
geethreeoh I had a good laugh
It would be nice to know what the street price for these is and a link for the listing if possible.
Street price and availability is always changing.
avg 10w price on ebay/amazon is £30
Screwfix are doing a nice new range 10w are £22 with battery indicator.
The plastic case and heat sink construction is nice, would love to know the eBay seller and grab one for hacking :)
a similar one : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162242964972
a bigger one from china : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262396094754
Baterry life???
Where did this light get sourced from? I don't see it on ebay in my hunting tonight.
Quite hard to find at the moment. This one is sold out on the listing I bought it from.
The one I took apart cost half that. Maybe a clone or unbranded version.
uh clive can ya give me a explenation i have those 3 LEDs rotating lights those RGB lights the leds just dont light up when all 3 are hooked in series all 3 leds are working fine i changed the wires board nothing works
I had 3 nights in a row last week where I got no sleep..... So I can fully relate to the shakes...
so, if that LED is being run at just under three watts, what can be said about its life expectancy if you were to modify the unit to run at the advertised ten watts?
then the battery would last half an hour!
if the led doesn't pop!
I might be interested in getting ahold of one of these lamps and hooking them into a bench supply just to see if they could even take ten watts. And for how long. It is cooled by the heatsink after all.
Hey Clive have you done a tear down of one of these remote controlled led party type bulbs? I dug around on your channel a bunch but couldn't quite find what I was looking for. I believe they're e26 type sockets here in the US. Keep running across a guy here on CZcams demonstrating two little free energy "resonators." I know it's a scam but I'm interested in trying to find out where he's hidden the battery. I think he's just removed the ac to dc converter and put a small cell in its place. It's super obvious but still driving me bat shit haha. I appreciate your time and love your work here in CZcams.
Since there's obviously a channel for a seal, could "yours" just be a case of sloppy assembly (forgot to put in the rear seal)? It would seem pointless having the added complexity of a seal channel machined into the injection mould then deliberately not using it.
" It would seem pointless having the added complexity of a seal channel machined into the injection mould then deliberately not using it. "
Unless it was a simple mold-clone of another work light, or re-use of a mold intended for a legit manufacturer. In that cases it'd be more work to remove the channel.
But I think it's more likely Clive got a defective one, over the conscious decision to put a single gasket in.
I guess that makes me "who gives a toss" +1. 😋. 👍👊👈ouch Clive!
This reminds me of my battery driven, USB chargable desklight I bought from china.
It looks good, the gooseneck is even enclosured by plastic, making it easier to use and to look at.
3 brightness levels, nice design and 3 hours runtime at maximum brightness!
.....except for the 3 hours everything else is right. It only runs for about 10 minutes at full light, then loses brightness until it is unusable after 30 minutes.....
And I thought paying 10€ would be enough to get quality ;__;
Opened up the light to see how small the battery is. It is not small, it is just a god damn lead acid battery!
Never expected such a thing, a 400mAh lead acid battery, lol. It even is named "GB-1135" and also listed on the manufacturer's website.
Because I didn't want such battery (which was directly connected to the USB 5V, was even able to use the light as a power source, the USB charger doctor was still lit after plugging it out of the power bank showing 4,2V :D
Then I ordered 2x Sony Konion 2,6Ah 18650 batteries from amazon, 5x 18650 charger boards with protection and all from ebay and some cables. Installed it all in the light using every last space there was in it, rendering the touch button unusable, until I just laid another bit of cable out of a hole i drilled with the screwdriver and just taping it on the ex-touch button.
The light can now charge with up to 2A and lasts so long, I have not even charged it anymore than just once at the beginning.
And the base became heavier, improving the stability when you bend the gooseneck! Although not a big difference because the lead acid battery is really not light.
Did not explode by now, so I guess it works!
I sometimes wonder if the wattage ratings sellers provide for LED products are the equivalent to incandescent ratings...
Just very false marketing. A good LED lamp should be close to ten times the efficiency of a traditional tungsten lamp.
Around here when you buy a CFL or LED light bulb the claimed equivalent to incandescent rating is in much bigger print than the actual power consumption. I think it is because the majority of people either don't care to educate themselves or aren't bright enough to grasp the difference between watts and lumens so they just want to know how what they are buying relates to what they bought 10 years ago.
That said, you could be right about false advertising. Stretching the facts isn't anything new. When I was studying electronics in the '70s the power ratings of amplifiers were usually given as RMS or peak but less scrupulous manufacturers used the peak to peak rating, giving rise to the term "Lloyds watt", which was typically about 1/3 of RMS....
Hey, your 3W light was rated at 10W - maybe these guys are rating their LEDs in Lloyds watts ;-)
Good thing you checked the heat sink for a seal. A little silicone caulk and Bobs your uncle.
I'm number who-gives-a-toss!
revmpandora cool number
We are number one
Awake past witching hour! super full moon tonight. 🌕
Typical Chinese ebay 10watts = 3watts , like the cheap power cords that are rated 10amps but likely to over heat at 3amps.
how would doubling the batteries double the brightness? the LED's are running at capacity. it can only double the run time. also they have a 1 ohm resistor in series between the LED and the Battery so that will have to be replaced with a current limiting buck regulator if the batteries are connected in series. they stopped when they had to. perhaps the
Clive you've had 55.5K views so people must respect your testing and opinions. Having looked at these units in your opinion what would be the best buy taking everything into account?
It's hard to say which is best. My preference is for the lower voltage single cell (or cluster of parallel cell) types for simplicity, especially with a USB recharge option. But for serious industrial use with fast recharge and long run time the expensive industrial ones are better.
Full battery gives 2.8W, nearly flat gives 0.5W. Average power is then 1.65W. Then the "Chinese Watt to Real Watt ratio" is 10 / 1.65 = cca 6. (6 Chinese watts = 1 real watt). :D Seems that this ratio gets higher and higher each year.
Clive, what dinosaur did you have to battle to get the video done? :P
(What happened to your hand?)
I think he may have been hitting the bag again. He's explained that in previous videos. Yeah pretty good split there.
themaconeau I was asking myself the same
bag? ex wife? lol
The punchbag at the gym isn't helping. I think I'll have to lay off it for a while.
bigclivedotcom you need to wear gloves even better the ones that have knuckle guards sewed in!
put a sheet of smoked plastic over the power meter to make it more visable on the camera
Of course you had to stay awake for a couple of days...getting prepared for hibernation is serious business :)
What happened to your right hand?
Another video about making it better?
Maybe they are quoting the equivalent brightness of a 10W incandescent lamp
You could drop that heatsink out, put a bead of silicone on the plastic, and a thin smear of vaseline on the heatsink, (just squash lightly at fist till it sets before fully tightening) then it can still be taken apart if needed.
but a 10W tungsten would be horrible for a floor standing working light - even the old tungsten pygmy bulbs were 15W and they were only about as strong as a cigarette lighter
Someday, one of these lights will be as advertised, running at exactly 10 Watts... :P
twocvbloke Don't hold your breath! 😁
Robert Langford
I know, it'll never happen... :P
Is there any LED flood lights on eBay that are what they say they are? I want to buy my mother a 100 watt one for Christmas to replace her 500 watt outdoor Halogen I purchased for her in 1996 and has been broken for a decade now. Any ideas?
Dark Alchemist I guess it's not just the wattage that matters. I'd go for a branded one anyway for that intended use, maybe 50 Watt will be just fine. You not fixing her lamp earlier did save her a fortune on her power bill by not using a 500 watt lamp for a decade! :)
all the more reason to sit her in the dark without the heating on then! save more!
jusb1066
They are outside.
*****
It takes 100 watt to equal the lumens of the 500 watt Halogen and I don't know of any trusted brands that put out what they say and various brands I have looked at are up to 200 dollars which is just beyond stupid.
I just won an auction for a 100 watt (2x50 cob) Floodlight and I asked
about the wiring and if it was for 120Vac US (sold from a seller in the
US but was a drop seller) and I said I would be testing it to make sure
it was really 100 Watts +/- 5% when I get it and I was immediately
refunded my Paypal (immediately as in 1 minute). This shit has to stop
where these sellers are selling something based on lies.
think its meant to have seal and they forget to add it during assembly
Clive, you must be an insomniac like me!
I'm really starting to think twice about keeping some of these products with cheap Chinese batteries in my home.
the danger most of the time comes when charging so safe storage and charging practices reduce the risk. But remember it's not just cheap chinese batteries that are the problem as shown by the recent problem at samsung anything with li-ion has a risk phones, laptops, tablets, gps, cameras etc
True. But with that said, I'm not worried about my thinkpad exploding. Or a dozen other items that have millions of "man hours" used on them by 10, 20, 30 millions of people. But a trinket from china is much more likely to set of fire with the shortcuts in the battery protection. I think we all can agree with that. Say I was using this in an attic, and it caught fire. That's the kinda of issue I worry about. Not "safe storage" or "charging" of a widely popular device. At least with a Samung note 7, I know it's a 0.1% chance. No so with with a device like this. So I'll stand by what I said, and dispute your post for good reason. ;)
In case of Galaxy Note 7 ATL (Chinese) batteries are considered safe (no accident occurred with them), they recall models with Samsung SDI batteries (manufactured in Korea or in Vietnam) which was cause of problems (70% of Galaxy Note 7 use them) and all cases of accident occurred only on phones with SDI batteries.
If you are concerned about fire still better to use Chinese devices with Chinese LiPo batteries then to use something Boeing designed (and they use Korean batteries I think) there battery fire happens on 5% of products. :)
GeorgeGraves I've never known anyone have a lithium cell item catch fire, and I've seen people short those cells and charge them with the wrong charger.
Clive's home is probably filled to the rafters with dodgy Chinese electronics and he hasn't burned to death yet.
although I suspect the mark on his hand could be from putting out a fire
I've seen those at Young Supply Company here in Michigan, but thought it looked to much like cheap plastic for the $60 they want for it. If it was only $20, than maybe....
One of these (very similar but with a battery pack function and three cells in it) set my house on fire after overcharging this year. Whoop!
What i dont get is, why didnt they put in a real 10w led? The casing is robust enough, and it seems pretty likely all the money has gone into the casing. As well as a beefy heatsink... Just seems strange
Looks like he has an eyeball in his knuckle.
Hey Clive,
Did you check with the seller about this?
Usually they give you a refund if you find something is off with the item, especially on ebay.
I ordered two different but in design similar lamps and I'm eager to check it also. They are advertised as 30W lamps :D :D :D
10 Chinese Watts. Chinese Watts are of course smaller than the rest of the world's.
Paul Frederick 10 Chinese twatts! yep there smaller then the rest of the world
8:22 - 9:27
Hang on... so if the voltage at the supply output is 4.5V, the resistor is dropping 1.2V, and the voltage drop across the LED is 3V, then that means you have almost 0.3 Ohms of series resistance in your power leads. I don't know about you, but that strikes me as a tiny bit high. You might want to look into that, as high supply resistance has sometimes caused me problems with feedback-controlled devices breaking into oscillation. Measuring my own PSU and supply leads ( 3ft each), I was measuring close to about 0.05 Ohms.
the power supply meter is not super accurate.
bigclivedotcom
Ah, okay. That makes more sense. Analog or digital? I've definitely seen analog meters that were off by as much as 10% or more. I know folks who just keep a DMM connected to the output of their PSU on a semi-permanent basis.
10W for 4 hours out of a 2200mAh LiIon-battery that moves between 4.2 and 3.0 Volts - what would that be? Free Energy? ;-)
Y i get no audio sometimes on your vids?
RandomGgames CZcams. Try changing the "quality" (resolution). Might be one version didn't encode correctly.... or you browser just doesn't like it.
tin2001 Funny think, Went to bed last night and trying again now, works fine. How strange.