Tamiya has a running guide for their engines. you can set the carb settings back to factory default settings, it’ll idle and run every time but it’s more of a rich setting, then you lean out from there. it’s best to get the car running without a filter so you can check the carb gap for proper idle. let the engine idle for a minute before driving every time 👍
I drive it at factory settings thing seems to run pretty mint with the settings from the factory. I replaced the piston sleeve and rod in this engine and it is a ABN style sleeve so I kind of play it safe and stay on this rich side to not cause damage . Also running a high oil content fuel with the max of 20% nitro for the old abn
You tried a couple of different combinations sidewinder 16/12% with 4% caster and torq 20/14% with 4%. I’m going to be testing 20/10 fuel with 4% caster for my 21 ABN ball bearing engine I’ve never run this engine in my kyosho usa1 nitro crusher it’s from the 90’s and i will be running it in the next week or two
@@Fullsenditrc I’ve been looking for the vp power masters 20/14 fuel specs. Going on most of there fuel i noticed most is 9% from synthetic oil but in some of there fuel they add there caster like they have a 25/11 which is 9% synthetic and 2% from caster but just guessing the 20/14% is called a basher fuel because it’s 9% synthetic and 5% caster that means it’s okay to use in ABN pull starter engines. The caster is to fine tune combustion in abn also its to protect the brass bushing in the back plate as caster doesn’t burn off in your engine like synthetic.
@@Fullsenditrc No 18% is well too much oil in a ABC engine. O.S did recommend 18% oil in the O.S max 12CZR MK1 ABC engine but that manual was printed way back in the 90’s they didn’t use synthetic oil in there fuels back then not that i know of anyway they used other oils manly caster that’s why they recommended using a fuel with 18% oil now a days with the use of synthetic theres no need to use fuels with those high oil content’s only abn engines need higher oil with caster oil fuel has come a long way since the 90’s lol
@@David-069 I was on a listing on eBay it says what they recommend I will make a video one day show you the listing I thought was a little high but that’s what it says
I always get 3 different temperature reading around the the glow plug drives me nuts. But if I check the temperature on the side of the engine where the head and block mates together it usually reads about 30° cooler. So I really don't know exactly what temperature it's actually running at.
Gunning it and trying to turn at full throttle ahhhhh doesn't turn! Also only turn needles little by little but run a lap or 2 before adjusting again! Also keep leaning high speed needle till it doesnt do anything and back off a quarter turn and you should be good might have to lean the low needle too by a quarter turn. If you mess up reset to factory and try again
Thanks for the info my friend thanks for watching I know it use to turn better with the old wheels it use to donut now it’s like just going straight I think harder compound tires it has now
Tamiya has a running guide for their engines. you can set the carb settings back to factory default settings, it’ll idle and run every time but it’s more of a rich setting, then you lean out from there. it’s best to get the car running without a filter so you can check the carb gap for proper idle. let the engine idle for a minute before driving every time 👍
I drive it at factory settings thing seems to run pretty mint with the settings from the factory. I replaced the piston sleeve and rod in this engine and it is a ABN style sleeve so I kind of play it safe and stay on this rich side to not cause damage . Also running a high oil content fuel with the max of 20% nitro for the old abn
Im glad it starts easy
It’s super easy to start this particular car 👊
Awesome bud
Thanks bro
You tried a couple of different combinations sidewinder 16/12% with 4% caster and torq 20/14% with 4%. I’m going to be testing 20/10 fuel with 4% caster for my 21 ABN ball bearing engine I’ve never run this engine in my kyosho usa1 nitro crusher it’s from the 90’s and i will be running it in the next week or two
Let me know how it works out going to be trying some stuff to get the temp down
@@Fullsenditrc I’ve been looking for the vp power masters 20/14 fuel specs. Going on most of there fuel i noticed most is 9% from synthetic oil but in some of there fuel they add there caster like they have a 25/11 which is 9% synthetic and 2% from caster but just guessing the 20/14% is called a basher fuel because it’s 9% synthetic and 5% caster that means it’s okay to use in ABN pull starter engines. The caster is to fine tune combustion in abn also its to protect the brass bushing in the back plate as caster doesn’t burn off in your engine like synthetic.
@@David-069 I was looking into new HPI engines and they recommended 18%oil for abc engine
@@Fullsenditrc No 18% is well too much oil in a ABC engine. O.S did recommend 18% oil in the O.S max 12CZR MK1 ABC engine but that manual was printed way back in the 90’s they didn’t use synthetic oil in there fuels back then not that i know of anyway they used other oils manly caster that’s why they recommended using a fuel with 18% oil now a days with the use of synthetic theres no need to use fuels with those high oil content’s only abn engines need higher oil with caster oil fuel has come a long way since the 90’s lol
@@David-069 I was on a listing on eBay it says what they recommend I will make a video one day show you the listing I thought was a little high but that’s what it says
I always get 3 different temperature reading around the the glow plug drives me nuts.
But if I check the temperature on the side of the engine where the head and block mates together it usually reads about 30° cooler.
So I really don't know exactly what temperature it's actually running at.
Yeah I should check around a little bit to see what’s what I was always thinking the plug area was the temp idk tho
Gunning it and trying to turn at full throttle ahhhhh doesn't turn! Also only turn needles little by little but run a lap or 2 before adjusting again! Also keep leaning high speed needle till it doesnt do anything and back off a quarter turn and you should be good might have to lean the low needle too by a quarter turn. If you mess up reset to factory and try again
Thanks for the info my friend thanks for watching I know it use to turn better with the old wheels it use to donut now it’s like just going straight I think harder compound tires it has now
@@Fullsenditrc whats your toe and camber like?
Looks like a little toe in
This is why I only run electric!
they are all fun