TRIUMPH TR6 Rear Differential Oil Seal Replacement & Overhaul
Vložit
- čas přidán 22. 10. 2021
- From buying to owning and improving the Triumph TR6 this series aims to give you all you need to know for living with this British classic icon.
In this episode we look at replacing the oils seals including the front nose seal, stub axle seals, rear case gasket. I'm also going to fit a oil drain plug and replace the mounting rubbers.
We do this at home with garage tools showing that you can do it too!! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Wow, terrific! All the forum posts put the fear of god in me to try this yet you've made it look easy.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant video, top tip on separating the hubs, thanks for that, when you speed your video up sounds like you are in a formula 1 pits.lol.
Glad it was helpful!
First, very informational video. Since we are lucky enough to have a spare differential to change seals out without our car being down, we decided to do this. We did the bolt them together and that worked awesome on one, but not the other. We had a 6 ton press, wouldn't budge the other one. A buddy had a 20 ton, no luck there either. Took to a local machine shop and they had a 100 ton press. It finally broke loose at 80 ton. Who would have thought it would take that much pressure.
WOW...100 tons!! just shows you how tight these things can be. Thanks for the comment and how you got yours sorted in the end.
Very clearly explained, I wish we had CZcams 40 years ago!..😁😁
Cheers Pete, Glad it was helpful! and yes! ohhh for CZcams when i first started messing with cars.....
@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 for sure, minis were my ‘thing’ and I have the skinned knuckles to prove it!… 😀
I've watched many of your videos and must say you've got a great style of both doing the work and explaining the work. It's like having a close friend and Not To worry. Very good videos.
Thanks
Thank you very much! appreciate the feedback
Excellent video. Very well done. The drain plug addition is brilliant!
Thank you!
Well done Martin. Both the work and video are top notch!
Thanks Tom. Glad you enjoyed the video
Nice job. Glad you were able to get to those axle oil seals without too much trouble. They can be a bear.
Thx Cheftush. I was dreading them to be honest and cant describe my elation enough when they cracked open using the back to back method. Proof you don't always need a 20 tonne hydraulic press :-)
Brilliant approach to separating the stub axles. I will be trying that soon! I only do one thing differently in that I leave the seal plates loose until the flanges are bolted up, under the assumption that it centers just a little more accurately.
Thanks for the feedback and great tip!
Excellent!
Many thanks!
I'm on to changing my diff's seals following your magical video. I've changed the nose seal and found that the nut was rather easy to remove. In your video you mention at 24:21 that the torque on this nut is 90-100 FT-#'s whereas in the repair manual (section 51.25.19 steps 29 and 32) it is only 90-120 IN-#'s . This would explain why mine was so easily removed. Thought you might want to know this and verify it yourself. Cheers.
Thanks Patrick. Glad it inspired you to have a go and thanks for the feedback
Just before I begin I'd like to thank you for these excellent, informative video's you've made Martin.
I decided to have a go at changing the nose seal and half shaft seals following your step by step methods. Once I had removed the old nose seal the main shaft has quite a bit of play in it and is now really gritty whilst trying to turn it. Because of it being in an upright position in the vice I have to lift the shaft to be able to rotate it from being rough as hell under its own weight. Therefore im guessing that the inside bearing which I can see needs replacing or the gears/ cogs on the inside are worn.
Would you have any further knowledge on this problem please Martin as im only a budding novice.
Regards Paul
Remember the front flange clamps up the bearing arrangement when the front nut is tightened so yes it will be free with the flange off. If the bearing are gritty on rotation then yes I’d consider replacing. They should be smooth and free of play when the flange is on and the pinion lightly tightened
Ive picked Martin up from another post, sorry if its not your name.
So looking into the diff with rear case removed, oil was like dark choclate and I spotted some iron fillings within. Gears and cogs look ok so to me it looks like its stems from deep within the front section. Im seeing a pair of bolts either side holding an housing for the inner drive shaft bearings so im hoping to undo these and remove all the differential innards to gain access to the main prop shaft and guessing, onto the worn bearings aloft. Knowing my luck they'll be a million different parts that will just cascade all over the bench but something is wrong in there.
Thanks again Paul
Very nice job! How many miles are on the car?
just over 80k
Want to replace rear seal on tr6 transmission. How does the yoke come out?
sorry. didnt actually take the yoke out. I needed to do the side shaft yokes on mine