Tamiya Extra Thin Cement as Decal Solvent ?!?!
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- In this video, I'm going to be showing you a weird trick I recently learned about using Tamiya cement on your decals to help them better adhere to the surface.
A huge thanks and shout out to "On the Bench" podcast, for showing me this amazing and model saving technique. Click the link to listen to their podcast, it's a great listen to while you are working away at the hobby bench: otbmodellerspo...
Music:
Bossa Antigua by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.fi...
License: creativecommons...
I forgot to mention that I had also tried using Mr.Hobby S, and I found it to be way too aggressive for this method.
He's CRAZY! next he'll be telling us to use floor polish as a gloss!
He's a mad man!
I heard disinfectant works too.. ;)
@@BasicModelling Only if the model ingests it :P
@@rebelsatcloudnine Oh well, I knew there was a catch...
@@rebelsatcloudnine this doesn't work, I once tried adding a cement to the area where the decal goes, and the decal just melted into black ink
i didnt do it the exact same way you did, i was a bit more, conservative with how much glue i used, even as little of it as you used. and just tapped a few little pinpoint spots on the decals. and yeah, it worked fine. i let it dry for about give minutes and then checked it and, yeah, it made the decals that i was having issues with adhere properly, which was a relief. So while i more or less winged it after i saw your videos title, the fact you uploaded this gave me the confidence to do so, so thank you!
WOW!!! I've never heard of this. I'll have to try the next time I have a difficult decal. Thanks for sharing
Thank You for taking the the time to do this OUTSTANDING tutorial! A massive help with a Checkerboard Decal- (hah- I was born in Canada- raised in the boarder in Windsor/Detroit- we’re all “Can-Am’s” here!) on a 1:48 Tamiya 4:54 P-51D…. I painted all the invasion stripes (excellent) etc- BUT- I’m a bit dodgy with hands/eyes/alignment on an area for Checkerboard this small… (I used DRAW Decals)- excellent product- anyone out there- for ONCE should have used the Tamiya DECALS as the Checkerboard is already “split” in two… Also stupid enough NOT TO Citi the single Checkerboard decal strip! Though I could as I already laid the rest down perfectly: Bad move. If you have to Decal a long curved section- cut it first… Thank You Rebels at Cloud Nine- Cheers- JW, Grosse Pointe, MI. USA-
Great idea! I was too afraid to do it with Tamiya Extra Thin but I've had success with Tamiya Extra Thin Quick setting . I have been following you for quite a while and like it better when you talk during your videos
Many thank you, This is what am looking for 👍👍👍 simple & totally awesome result.
I hope for the next video about yellowish decal problem.
Unfortunately I just did that but I didn't record it. That's called "bleaching the decals". Depending on how yellow and old the decals are you can tape them into a window that comes into contact with lots of sunlight. The sunlight will bleach out the yellow. I usually leave them in for a week or 2. It's not a total fix as a lot will depend on the decals and how they've aged. But on the decals I recently bleached I basically got them back to their original state after a week. I'll do my best next time I come across this to do a video on it.
@@rebelsatcloudnine G'day again, Rebel, Yes the the sunlight trick does work. The good bloke that runs Old Model Kits suggests this for old decals that have been sealed in boxes for many years. Yes, it's odd they fade in the dark but they do. An intense shot of sunlight with a bit of heat works wonders. About a week works for me down here in Tasmania, even in winter because we have particularly sunny winters. I've subscribed now and 'rang the bell'. Cheers, BH
Wow!!! Awesome tip, and definitely something to remember when all else fails..thanks for sharing...
Thanks Colonel :D I wish I had known about this a long time ago, it could have saved me on a few projects.
This works, just saved my Tamiya 1/48 Meteor MkIII walkway decals which badly silvered despite surface sanding and gloss coating. Thanks a lot, Ian
That is awesome, I'm glad to hear that it worked so well for you :)
Hi J, great stuff, it's another technique to learn about this fabulous hobby of ours. Thank you very much for sharing. Hope your family and you are all OK and staying safe
Thanks Steve, I hope that you are doing good as well. It's a scary technique, but it did save me my B-17 project so I'm really grateful for that. Now if those blasted wheels would just arrive in the mail.
Try acetone, pure. It works much better. I tried with cement but I prefer acetone. Acetone has super low surface tension, that makes it run in between the decal and the paint and melt them without damaging neither of them. Result is perfect and you have less risk of ruining the model.
That is interesting thank you, I'll have to give that a try :D
I was going to say, that faded effect looks pretty realistic. I suppose that might depend on the area you touch up but, this is still a neat little trick.
Thank you so much for this tip, I’ve just built my first model for 35 years and almost all my decals have silvered? I can only think it’s because I used satin varnish?, anyhow it has worked, a quick wipe of Tamiya extra thin has sorted it, just got to see how they look once it has dried,
These tips you have given are great my friend. Looking forward to see the B-17 to be done.
I have B-17 G assembled a few years ago. It's from Revell.
That's a very useful tip, I'll keep it in the memory banks. Looking forward to the B-17 vid
Maybe this week the wheels will arrive
Once again, great video, Jared. The close-up camera work was spot on! Nice music, too. I agree with the guy who commented before me: I like it better when you're talking in the video. Besides being more informative, you have a relaxing, FM Radio voice! 😉 😊
P. S. I'll be sure to try that decal setting trick! I wonder will it work on..... (Gulp) ACADEMY DECALS?! 😱
I'll just have to buy a microphone then, well once work comes back. These decals were pretty stubborn, so I think they'd work fairly well on Academy, I don't have any to test out but I'm very curious about that.
Great technique. Thank you so much for sharing. I will immediately try on very hard decals on my Camel model from Academy, where no decal water worked. Greetings. Aleš 😎👍
Best of luck with that :D
@@rebelsatcloudnine Thanks. 😎✌️
Great short tutorial! Those small decals can be a real bugger. I've seen you do it, I saw the exact process, and I'm confident I can make it work. This will be a very useful new tool for me. Thank you for sharing it. Go Oilers! [÷)
Thanks for watching and leaving the comment. I was surprised by how well this method actually worked. And on the Finished B-17, most of the silvering is all gone :)
'stab them up... stab them up... stab them up'
-rebelsatcloudnine
It's something I have done on instrument panels with tons of raised details. Have to be careful but it works very well
Great tip. I’ll try this next time with a bad decal..I’m in Canada too..
I'll stick with pronouncing it (dee-cal) as (deckle) is something used in paper making. As long as people know what your talking about pronounce it how you will.
Using cement as a decal solvent is something I’ve been doing for a while now on the more stubborn of decals; a teeny bit of cement - often diluted with water - often aids me in making a decal form, fold and sink along all kinds of shapes.
That's awesome, I wish I had known about this method a long time ago, would have saved me on a few projects.
Grumpy modeler uses Mr Color Leveling thinner cut with IPA. I have not heard of using Tamiya glue.
So good! That's just what I was going for.
Tamiya also have a Mark Fit Decal Solvent. Ordered it, but there doesn't seem to be much information around.
Check out my channel, I did a video on the Mark Fit Super Stong, where I compared it to other solvents, including the Tamiya Mark Fit Strong.
I must say that I used super attak for decals, on my panzer models by Tamiya and Zvezda, to be sure they last, noi problems with acrilic colors.
Cual es código del color verde que uso?
thx
G'day Rebel, This is very interesting and I can see the point of what you're doing. It does work. I've only seen a couple of your videos as I'm just about to, finally, subscribe. Please let me ask you this question. During this video I was able, thanks to your great close-ups, to look closely at the painted surfaces. Generally, I think that there is an ever so slight texture to your finished camo painted areas, especially. Not enough to be called 'orange peely' but a texture none the less.
Now, I've just finished watching your build of the Airfix 1/72 Lancaster BIII. A very good job but I did note you didn't use a primer, like Stynylrez, on that model. IF, it is your habit of not using a primer, then I started to think that, just perhaps, in THIS video you may not have had such an obvious texture effect if you had used primer, and, you may not have had such a rare problem with your decals settling into lines and details of this model.
So, finally, my questions: do you use primer on all your models? If so, was there a reason that you didn't use a primer on the BIII Lanc? If you don't use a primer routinely, could you please tell me why?
I remember a while back, it was suggested to me to always use a good primer and then let it cure for two or three days, depending on the weather. I was amazed by the difference it made. Stynylrez is an acrylic primer and it truly does make any coat of paint you apply right after that look so much better. The adhesion of the first light coat of paint is almost like the Stynylrez makes the plastic 'magnetic' to paint. Subsequent, light coats have a much better coverage and intensity without filling up the panel lines and other fine surface detail.
You can brush it over small parts for a better paint coverage or, as I've done with several models, sprayed all the sprues with Stynylrez after I've washed and dried them. It doesn't seem to inhibit the use of glue, (I mainly use Tamiya Extra Thin too) like some paints can. It comes in several colours, however, I generally use black as it’s a good colour to use if you’re going to paint ‘bare metal’ paints on your aircraft.
This is not an 'ad' for this product, using any brand of primer with a reputation for a good, hard cure will do the trick. Anyway, that's a lot to dump on you so, I'll understand if you don't get to see this comment and don’t reply. I'll go subscribe now. Cheers, BH
Both models were primed, I just didn't record it.
Nice I never move my applicator. Just let the extra thin flow. Gonna try your way in the future
Best of luck to you :)
Love it! Thia will help alot!
Awesome, I'm glad to hear that :D
I dated Thia in high school. She wasn't all that helpful.
great video! i also was listening to the on the bench podcast about this. i wonder how this works on academy decals that are not made by cartagraf. ive tried everything on academy decals to try to get them to conform.
Thanks JJ, I've yet to try them out as well, as I had a horrid experience with decals like that from Academy, and on a B-17. Given the results I had here with the Revell kit I think that it would work out quite well, with the proper care. One of these day's I'll have to give it a try as I'm curious to see how it would do.
hmmm.... i'll have to give it a go! Def gonna try it on some scrap plastic first- WAY too much of a clencher otherwise lol.
Yes, test it a few times on scrap plastic first :)
I ruined my decals and I damaged my paint job using extra thin some months ago. I used an old trick instead..dip the end of a Qtip in water, stick it to a hot iron, let it fizzle then stick it on the stubborn decal..decals are afraid of a hot cotton bud.,!!
Take care .
What exactly is decal silvering?
Trapped air underneath a decal. Most noticeable on larger clear areas.
Neat thanks for the tip
Thanks for watching Charlie :D
it's not gonna work
I tried it once on a decal, it melted into black ink
I n t e r e s t I in g !
There is no gap between the i and the n and its destroying my ocd
I do use the tamiya Extra THIN glue as decal solvent many times. You discover my secret!
But will they work on Academy's in house alleged " "decals" "?
Thankfully Academy are using Cartograf decals these days, but I was wondering that as well. But after another B-17 incident years back, I've stayed away from the more difficult older Academy decals.
@@rebelsatcloudnine damn right. Building an original boxing of their 1/48 Sabre, and just looking at the yellow ID stripes brings on a bout of PTSD from the time I built that kit in 2003.
@@eviltoast2981 Yeah, I remember with the B-17, I placed on all the decals and then I came back an hour later and most of them had peeled off.
And here I thought that this was some kind of sick late April Fool's joke! lol Oh, I guess how you pronounce "decals" doesn't bother me because I watch a lot of British stuff and they say things like PrEYEus, and Celeeka. No worries, my friend.
I have never said pr-eye-uss. It's Pre-uss. 😀
You'd be surprised how many people get offended by it.
@@UKscalemodeller Clarkson always pronounces it like that, but I get the drift, like the different ways of pronouncing aluminum.
TRANSFERS, dang it... TRAAAAANSFERS... (only joking) ;) Interesting way of decalling... I think I will stick to (pun intended) what I know though, i.e Johnsons KLEAR or PLEDGAE.. It works best for me! But yes, an interesting way of doing it.. :) Just worried I would cause more damage than good though, if I were to try it.. :)
These were the most stubborn decals, I had a good gloss coat, and I spent a week using various solvents to try and get the decals to work. But just a few minutes with the glue and they were stuck to the model and looking great. It was kind of freaky.
I never would have thought yo use the cement. All ways ask the dictionary. www.dictionary.com/browse/decal?s=t Just a little fun banter. It really doesn't natter how any one pronounces the word "DECAL'
You would be surprised how many people get so mad at me for decal, like a personal attack on their mothers or something.
What did you say about my momma 🙅🏼♂️
“Dehcuhl”. Yeah… go for it, it’s how you pronounce it… no need to apologize for your local lingo.
Alumunium….
😊
did you know that tamiya extra thin and mr tool cleaner are the same thing?
Really, they smell way different? I'll have to check that out.
@@rebelsatcloudnine i read about it in a forum here in Greece and they said they work the same way
It is pronounced DICKALS.👍
Sorry I had forgotten about that version haha
Potatoes potato Dee-cals decals. All world says that to here in usa its Dee- cals. If they run in awall would you do the same because the hole world do it too! Think it about.
But but but I bought plastic magic now.. because I cannot get extra thin...💆🏼♂️
Bloody lockdown.
Insert Vader Nooooo! Meme
hahaha, oh no :D
Do not do this method on Microscale decals though it will make the ink run. Trust me I know!
Dee-kal.....see dictionary.com
SMH. Didn't you even look at the word "decal" on dictionary.com? It lists both pronunciations. [ dee-kal, dih-kal ] The second one is how R@C9 pronounces it, dingus.
@@stevethefishdotnet Dee-kal
Yes because thats the way the Brits say it, it must be so! NO, for me there is no such thing as last resort for my model that I took a ton of time to meticulously build and the take the chance of ruining it because I was either to cheap, lazy or otherwise impatient to do it right. Sorry but using this to set decals does not even come close to the level of common sense. What are you going to try next, vinegar?
Ok bell end how do us Brits say it? You travel 10 miles in Britain and the accent is totally different.. so stop chatting shit.
You got no model builds in essence your opinion is worthless, compared to someone who took the effort to produce one ☝️ then upload it for you to whinge like a little girl in the comments section.
Do us a favour upload a video so can criticise and pick at.. it will be a laugh
Kevin, you are an awesome model builder. Doing every step right, every time is remarkable and I heartily congratulate you for that! I like the fact you're not cheap, have a strong work ethic, and...patience is one of the heavenly virtues!
I'd like to be pals with a master craftsman, but you seem like a bit of a dick.