It's so nice to see a plough set properly. The amount of people I've seen who take no pride or have no clue is unbelievable, tractors on half lock scrabbling up the furrow wall is just pointless that they shouldn't be doing the job, fields with very little trash and they still can't bury half of it. No pride in the job.
I quite agree! - thought for a moment that I had written the comment! Bad enough Commercial ploughing but for so-called enthusiast to make a mess-lack of experience one thing, but not reading the book etc UNFORGIVABLE !!
Great work.I remember in early 1970,s ploughing with Massey 188 and 4 sod Ransome 14 inch conventional plough.rear wheels 56 inches centre to centre,plough 4x14= 56".with plough properly set up,no need to use difflock...
Does he? in all seriousness, I have been looking at the issue of REAR wheeltrack settings for a long time: Some Op Mans tell you many don't and fewer seem to know or care. THe Journal went to print out tyre pressures and FRONT wheel track, but since the AUDIO was so poor -and trying to understand the accent ( no real problem with the Irish Face to face ) I've replayed the vid several times and still didn't hear - only that the Tape measurement was 1m .24 ..... and then that Front wheels ... I give up on those videos!
Would you expect the points to be turned once, three times or five times in their life span ? Its just that the more the shares wear then the greater the difference between a new full length point and the share e.g if the share is 60% worn a full length point will stick out much more in front. If there was time would you turn the points after each centimetre of wear ?
May have been better to show a diagram explaining the line of PULL to be centred. I completely DISAGREE with the general stuff said here: I cannot say that the Kverneland Plough settings are wrong: I am more concerned with the TRACTOR. but even HERE, the TOPLINK is set all wrong. READ THE BOOK folks. I have seen 90-100 ho tractors struggling . fighting against itself as discussed below. As the visitor, all I could do in the FIELD was re-set the top link . What a difference THAT made. There are some lovely vids on youtube from LEYLAND - showing under 80hp 2WD drawing up to 5 Furrs WITHOUT a rear "depth " wheel - ( a mis-noma anyway). THe wheel should brush along on the leaves / stubble and prevent the TAIL of the plough nose-diving when a body trips, OR the front of the tractor raises (too) high - maybe insufficient Fr ballast - OR so finely tuned for Max. performance! That's it - from experience. Shall we get another video explaining this?
This video already explained that you should use the toplink in the big slotted hole in order for the plough to be able to move freely. This is the correct way on a big plough like this.
@@bazgino If you have lower link sensing you use the slot for the toplink and set the length at normal ploughing depth to have the pin in the middle of the slot, as in the video. If you have top link sensing on your tractor you use a hole to link the plough and toplink. I don't think size comes in to it!
It's so nice to see a plough set properly. The amount of people I've seen who take no pride or have no clue is unbelievable, tractors on half lock scrabbling up the furrow wall is just pointless that they shouldn't be doing the job, fields with very little trash and they still can't bury half of it. No pride in the job.
I quite agree! - thought for a moment that I had written the comment! Bad enough Commercial ploughing but for so-called enthusiast to make a mess-lack of experience one thing, but not reading the book etc UNFORGIVABLE !!
Great work.I remember in early 1970,s ploughing with Massey 188 and 4 sod Ransome 14 inch conventional plough.rear wheels 56 inches centre to centre,plough 4x14= 56".with plough properly set up,no need to use difflock...
Great video thank you! Only complaint is I wish the sound was a little bit better. Lots of really interesting information given 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Super video thanks
That man knows his business, great video!
Does he? in all seriousness, I have been looking at the issue of REAR wheeltrack settings for a long time: Some Op Mans tell you many don't and fewer seem to know or care. THe Journal went to print out tyre pressures and FRONT wheel track, but since the AUDIO was so poor -and trying to understand the accent ( no real problem with the Irish Face to face ) I've replayed the vid several times and still didn't hear - only that the Tape measurement was 1m .24 ..... and then that Front wheels ... I give up on those videos!
At the headland are you not left with an empty furrow at the end of your straights.
excellent work
Would you expect the points to be turned once, three times or five times in their life span ? Its just that the more the shares wear then the greater the difference between a new full length point and the share e.g if the share is 60% worn a full length point will stick out much more in front. If there was time would you turn the points after each centimetre of wear ?
They knew their stuff, kudos to them.
May have been better to show a diagram explaining the line of PULL to be centred. I completely DISAGREE with the general stuff said here: I cannot say that the Kverneland Plough settings are wrong: I am more concerned with the TRACTOR. but even HERE, the TOPLINK is set all wrong. READ THE BOOK folks. I have seen 90-100 ho tractors struggling . fighting against itself as discussed below. As the visitor, all I could do in the FIELD was re-set the top link . What a difference THAT made. There are some lovely vids on youtube from LEYLAND - showing under 80hp 2WD drawing up to 5 Furrs WITHOUT a rear "depth " wheel - ( a mis-noma anyway). THe wheel should brush along on the leaves / stubble and prevent the TAIL of the plough nose-diving when a body trips, OR the front of the tractor raises (too) high - maybe insufficient Fr ballast - OR so finely tuned for Max. performance! That's it - from experience. Shall we get another video explaining this?
This video already explained that you should use the toplink in the big slotted hole in order for the plough to be able to move freely. This is the correct way on a big plough like this.
The plough was set perfect
@@bazgino If you have lower link sensing you use the slot for the toplink and set the length at normal ploughing depth to have the pin in the middle of the slot, as in the video. If you have top link sensing on your tractor you use a hole to link the plough and toplink. I don't think size comes in to it!
Fella loves using his measuring tape
It's John, is it??
father ted