World's Strongest Seam: flat felled seam masterclass (Sewing Basics 7)
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- This video is about how to sew a flat felled seam! This is a mega strong seam and I have invented a unique way of doing it that makes it incredibly easy. As well as a demonstration it includes:
-pros and cons of this seam
-when to use it
-my unique method that makes it super simple
-why its so strong
-detailed step-by-step guide
-alternative method that is the ultimate seam for hand sewers (sew a single stitch and have all your raw edges hidden, plus a stronger seam than the regular seam)
This Sewing Basics series will explain everything you need to know about the sewing stage of any project, including preparation beforehand, essential steps afterwards, as well as exploring 5 different seams, each with their own pros and cons and when to use them! The idea is for every beginner sewer to produce professional-grade seams, with the correct seam choice every time
I have planned the following upcoming in-depth series:
-Sewing Basics (this one)
-Double Sided Faux Fur (includes multi-episode project)
-Hand Sewing
-Single Sided Faux Fur (includes multi-episode project)
-Measuring, Cutting, Patterns, Adjustments
-Waterproof Sewing (includes multi-episode project)
-Designing, Launching and Growing a Fashion Business
-Lingerie and Delicate Fabrics (includes multi-episode project)
-Designing From Scratch
-30 Minute Sewing Projects
Stay tuned for these! They will all contain tips and knowledge never seen on CZcams!
Everything I have used in the Sewing Basics series I have tried to find a link that will do a great job for a great price to get started. Atm I am just doing links for the UK but if people find it useful I'm happy to find the best links for other countries too!
I found I have to pay for a url-shortener so I can't fit many url's in the comments! I'll link the super essentials and just give the names of the other products for you to find yourself if you need any
Sewing Machine:
I don't own a beginner machine, but this Gunolye 12-stitch looks to me like it will do everything you need for under £40 free delivery! One thing I look for with sewing machines is how easy it is to get a small cuff/sleeve over to the needle and this looks like the cheapest one that allows that as well as doing all the sewing fundamentals:
www.amazon.co.uk/machine-12-P...
Giant Self-Healing Cutting Mat
For less than £20 this is easily one of the best things I've ever bought! It can handle the iron as well as allowing you to use a rotary cutter to quickly cut most fabrics (instead of needing scissors):
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quali...
Thread
As I say in the video, get good thread! Gutermann thread is still cheap for what it is, but any other thread is simply not worth it in my experience. Especially unbranded threads, will ruin your whole garment over time! This is the only time I will strongly recommend going with one brand over any other:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gutermann-...
Rotary Cutter
This is the one I use, does the job great:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rotary-Cut...
Machine Needles
I would recommend getting needles for your brand of machine, for example I get Janome needles for the Janome machine I used in the videos. One of the top results on ebay for 'sewing machine needles' (universal needles) apparently work in any machine so if you can't find needles for your machine then try these. They are relatively heavy needles (90 and 100) so they will be tough enough for any project that isn't using mega heavy fabric
Chalk
I didn't actually use chalk in any videos in the series but its an essential, over the years I have found that triangle chalk is much better than other versions! The edge stays sharper and its easy to use. Chalk pencils are the worst chalk
Greaseproof Paper/ Parchment Paper
Needed for many fabrics to go between the iron and your fabric! I won't link this because you can find it easily
Polycotton Fabric
This is the default fabric to sew with unless you need a specific fabric. Don't use the one I used in this series (two bad fabrics bonded together), I only used it so it had a clear front and back side. Polycotton will fold and behave way better, and its cheap
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plain-Poly...
Scissors
Can't recommend anyone except Fiskars for scissors- you want SHARP scissors and you want to ONLY use them on fabric, not on paper and not on leather. The 25cm ones are definitely the ones I'd recommend (£16 on Amazon), but you can get smaller ones for cheaper. There are other good scissors brands but Fiskars is the best quality and this is one area (like thread) where quality makes a difference!
Thanks for watching! - Jak na to + styl
The true flat felled seam is almost universally used for the ridge line of lightweight tents. For DIY sewers, it's a challenge to pull this off with slick 20d silicone coated fabrics!
Thanks a.bunch.
You take your time to teach so well.
Thanks for your giftings.
God bless you.
I subscribed.
Love this.
That’s brilliant. Saves a lot of time
Thank you
Flat felled seams used to be on Levi's, back in the 70's and 80's. Now they use the Half flat felled; and other Jeans makers are not using them at all.
love this. looking for a project to use this method.
Me too! Its rarely used because of how complicated it is to do normally, but actually so simple with my double allowance trick, right?? If you do ever use it let me know how it goes!
I’m going to make a brushed satin robe for my mom. I want to try the flat felled seam with that. I just received the flat felled presser foot I ordered online that I’m excited to use. I need all the help I can get as I have only been sewing since August of 2023! Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 🦋
I am looking at this for camping stool seat seams at the corners for the tripod legs to be secured
will the fabric be stiff?
How would you go about doing this on a curved to flat piece
Hi Michael! Sewing this on a curve takes some practice, there are two ways depending on the nature of the curve. Before you cut, consider the curve and decide which you want to be the upper fabric (with one seam allowance) and lower (with double), because (at least) one of the panels will need notches cut into it because there will be less fabric to fill the same area due to the curve. If you aren't sure which, cut both panels with double allowance, lay them out, and you can physically see which will need to have the notches cut into it
Method one is:
1 work out which parts of the seam allowance will be hidden inside and not visible from inside or outside the finished garment (answer: the seam allowance of the upper fabric and the second half of the double allowance of the lower fabric will be internal to the seam, if that makes sense)
2 cut notches in the unseen parts which will allow the fabric to move better in the ways you want it to. Do this by putting them together and working out what needs to have more give in it to allow it to go on the curve
3 sew the seam as directed in the video, ensuring you stay on the sewing line accurately (more important in this seam type than with a regular seam). This is where the practice is needed because it will be on your sewing skill to make it lie neat as you sew (the more curved the harder it is)
Method two is:
1 put the two fabric panels together and work out where the notches need to be to allow the fabric to sit best when its a finished seam
2 cut ALL of the seam allowance (one on the upper and double allowance on the lower) with notches as appropriate
3 sew the seam as directed in the video
The downside to method 2 is that the underside will have visible notches cut into it, but the upside is that it will be even easier to make a smooth looking seam in this way than in method 1. So for the hardest curves, you may want to do this
Hope this helps! Keeping to the correct line when sewing is important on this because your stitch is also sewing into the seam allowance underneath, so that's the key to all of it (as well as making sure the fabric is behaving as you sew). Good luck with your sewing adventures!
There is an easier way to do this with the same result
Thank you