Great info on the differences! Also good point about potentially needing to freshen up the bottom end as well. I'd probably feel the same way. Fortunately my Z6 is relatively low miles, and not abused, until I got a hold of it ;) Keep up the great content!!
Jdm motors usually have low mileage, you can do a compression check to make sure the rings are good prior to swap. Think you're overthinking this. I just did a z6 head and big cam on my d15b7 bottom end. Best mod so far and I live in Orlando, ready to run ya at the Firm! 😎
@@ej2brandon383running a better intake manifold and TB and bigger cam definitely yes, pulls to higher rpms, we only took my car to 7400 and its still making power.
Yes, they generally do have low mileage, but they also generally do mostly hard city miles and short trips, so it still could have carbon buildup and wear problems, especially if it wasn't maintained properly. Improper storage can cause rust too. So just like anything else, JDM engines are a risk and I haven't seen any evidence that a "low mileage" JDM engine is more likely to be good than a typical USDM engine out of a wrecked car. As for the compression test, on these engines, the starter is on the transmission instead of the block, so testing it before installation is easier said than done unless the engine and trans are together or you have a spare trans. Just be aware that a compression test still has its limitations such as not being able to test the oil control rings, valve stem seals, bearings, etc, so good compression doesn't always mean a good engine although it can be a good indication.
The D16A valve train reminds me of the old school D16A6 that came in the EF Si models. You CAN swap one of those VTEC heads onto it, and it would pick up some power, but it wouldn't be as powerful as the Y8 or Z6 due to the lower compression. However, it'd be a noticeable power gain and the compression difference really wouldn't be that noticeable.
It uses a p08 head casting which is the z6 head casting, from what I can tell is they use a non vtec rocker setup from a y7 base ( maybe exactly same) and a special cam for that engine. Somone I Kno said he just grabbed a z6 rocker assembly and z6 cam an VTec solenoid , boom it worked. Buttttt I have heard this only works if the head has the block off plate ( remove the plate an has to have to oil holes pre drilled out from factory for the solenoid). Idk I haven't had one myself an I built many Frankenstein d16 using different heads with other blocks an even as far as using a z6 crank z6 block a6 pistons y⁸ head ( make sure to fix the dizzy (ie trim reclock) to match ignition timing correct depending on the car ecu obd1 set up etc. Shaved the head use a 2 layer head gasket an ended up around 12.1 with factory parts also port matched an gasket matched everything plus open up some port flow areas by hand stage 3 cam an valve springs was the only aftermarket stuff. Can won alot of money because no one expected it run over b- series the way it did including a gsr set up. Made high numbers and broke 4 Dyno records for na sohc
Those parts was chosen to give the right clearance and compression even the z6 crank was hunted down because the y8 an y7 only have one oil hole per Rob bearing and the z6 an a6 have 2 per bearing, pluc the a6 pistons was the only one to run with the y8 head for higher compression dude to the piston design and the y8 head small combustion chambers, used a metal head gasket an remove the middle layer plus shaved the head a little an the mild port work for gasket matching etc. Trust me it's a amazing stock set up but when I threw the cam in to be able to use that higher compression better it made twice the gain that it did in a stock y8 vs my Frankenstein,. The motor bought a paid for itself 20+ times tbh because no one expected it to be so vicious ( yes im not telling a few little tricks used to make it just that much better. No I don't mean aftermarket parts, just some mods). BTW used a hondata an turned it with 3 tunes I changed between, one for daily driver gas mpg one for race- safe power and last was a kill mode with higher redline an everything maxed out timing etc straight kill but we know kill mode is never safe or any safety setting used lol
You don’t need vtec head swap to do what you’re doing. At very least though, what you should do is take those arp head studs and add them into that new motor. Those later d16s are notorious for blowing head gaskets. Good to know you’ll have that extra seal.
Its a d series, the bolt patterns for the rocker assembly and cam seats are all exactly the same on d series engines, they even bolt up to the black sheep d17's. I frankenstiened a cam gear so I could run a y8 cam in my d17 head so I could have a real vtec. The lobes might be different as in the d17 has 1 lobe for vtec and the y8 has 3 lobes, but they sit in the same position at top dead center so engine timing isn't an issue. You could also rebuild the bottom end of the y8 you already have as in new crank and main seals and new piston rings etc. or you could just pull the block off plate off and put the y8 rocker assembly and camshaft in or even the z6 rockers and cam just make sure the cam gear doesnt sit too far away from the cam sensor and all should be fine with a healthy engine.
In fact, it was what I did, I have a d16a and it had that cover where the vtec solenoid goes, I put a vtec camshaft and a vtec solenoid and it works great hahaha
I think rebuilding the block sounds good. This way your rebuilt head can go on it. Thats what im gonna be doing, getting the long block rebuilt together.
I've done a mini me swap in my experience it runs a little bit better the bottom and I use was often automatic block the top end was from a manual block I also added a turbo hondata computer and it ran very good as I write this I'm building another one
building my first ek with a d16a in it what do u recommend i should upgrade first to make power, also i have a d16y8 head (vtec). Thank you for any suggestions!!!
@@jakemunoz8970 Cheap +5-10hp: intake+header+exhaust+thinner metal hg (always unplug battery/ bridge scs connector after or no gain) Still cheap +15-25hp: Y8 head and manifolds + obd1 harnesses and ecu with Y8 base maps (follow mini me instructions) $3-900 for 200+whp M/T: Y8 head conversion + Chipped P28 + WB255lp + TD04-13G (lots of research)
Hey man I know this is an older video but I'm searching for an engine to put in my 99 Honda civic ex and the original motor is a D16Y8. Do you have any engines for the vehicle that you'd sell?
Does anyone know How do u search for a gasket for that block off plate. I'm having a tough time since it a jdm item. All I'm get are block off plates for usdm vtec engine.
I love online keyboard automobile professionals. They are genius and know everything about everything. Just throwing on a vtec selenoid wont do shiz. I have a video up of a street pull on my y7 block with y8 head. It's more work than you think
No matter what you do it's just going to be dirt slow and torqueless unless you boost it period you run low boost on anyone of those engines and feel the difference believe me you will agree 100%
Hola, me toco un motor d16a igual y le pondré cabeza y8, me ayudarías a saber que tornillos arp utilizaste porque yo tenía los del z6(208-4301) y quedaron muy largos,sera que ocupo los del y8(208-4305), saludos.
I don't know if I fully buy the definition of insanity in your case because you wouldn't be doing the same thing as before unless your last block had as low of miles as the jdm d16a. I would think that fresh head on a low mileage never beat on block would be perfect but that's my opinion and I respect yours too. I've thought about putting a type r head on my low mileage jdm b18c (sir). I can't justify cracking open an engine Honda built with only 50k on it. So I def see both sides!
"Don't listen to others, just keep building" - LaTommyLa. Single screamer here (D16A6/A8/Z6 builds in my history, currently on a JDM D15B), but i do think it's a bit nuts you didn't rebuild the Z6 block (not a Y8 fan) with a simple SFR kit. #SaveTheSOHC
Sounds like you know what you need to do. Hope you bought some of those Y oil pumps! Problem is, by the time you factor the cost of doing a full "quality" bottom end race ready rebuild on a D series, take a look at how much money you spent on a motor that is quickly going extinct versus moving to a new engine platform that will be supportable for practically the same money. I still use D to chug around town, if i had a race car still, I would be on K instead of B or D.
Put your old head on and ecu, or a chipped auto, wire it up and done. Your bottom was bad (knocking). But your top Is fine. So new bottom end, used head, done.
drive high RPM and still reliable and still last long___ gotta love honda! this is why people hate on honda... cuz its better than the crap theyre driving !
Simple solution, take the D16A block out, get it bored .50mm over and put high comp pistons and long rods in it with new rings. No worries about burning oil then 😉
Well it’s good info yes for people on d series but to my self I own a d series as daily non vtec it deserves to stay that way it’s my daily and reliable. It has a purpose, now your eg hatch you said your self it’s a track 🚗 car for time attack so why messing with low standard class, yes you spend low money 💴 here 50 next week another 100 next month another 200, that’s already 350 bucks all add up with that alone you could get an H series or even a B20 series block, I follow this rule spend once do it once, by continue spending little cash here and there it will eventually add up and reach up to a Bseries class or even H total cost and you will still be in D series’s.. . Trying to make things work and gain more power. Sacrifice the D series sell it all and jump into B or H series do a bread 🥖 and water for a whole month to collect save cash at the end it will be worth it. People spends big money just to be one second faster... I love my D series fully stock daily, I take that thing 200 miles back and forward, 2 or 3 times a week, I oil change every month. I love it 🥰 drive it like a grandpa lol cruise it take my time to my destination. D series best there is for reliability. Remember this, don’t use a butter knife if you wanna cut a New York Steak, that’s what you trying to do in a D series, Pal.
Also, I wouldn't be worried about the condition of the JDM block. Those engines are sold with extremely low mileage. Thats why when I bought my JDM J32A I went with a JDM engine over a J32A2 USDM block. I honestly think that you'll be fine swapping that head on.
I ran into these problems and found out what my problem was, and that was buying engines off of facebook/craigslist... had to pay more for a warranty engine, but it's the way to go. Unless you know the person.
😅😂😊 bro i have a d15b2 block with a d16a6 head 30 over port and polish 3 angle valves job with d16z6 mani 72 tp with spacer and others like skunk 2 and others things and i eat vtec for lunch old school style mostly all homemade port etc and i even dont have a header on like i said junkyards parts but man man my crx fly plus i dont nd si tranny my cam pull hard enough with some old school adjustment real simple all that VTEC crap that what it is crap for me loose of time when they start hitting vtec im already gone from their view only we used drills out here and ccr song born in the byouooooo and the last one is suavesito latino beacon lard in reality shave the head port and polish and others little things and drill the thing up and bingo time even turbos is a waste of time and money in honda engine power plan is a 72 tp and believe me the a6 head is a monster with air and fuel the resr is history
But seriously, throw the damn Y8 head on there. The motor will be fine and if it wasn't already burning/consuming oil it's not gonna start just because you have a VTEC head on there. Epecially since you got new valve seals put in which is USUALLY the culprit of oil consumption rather than piston rings, prior to contrary belief. Throw the damn thing on there and send it
I would NOT GO SOHC VTEC....you can build the non vtec head and have power throughout the powerband...esp ifits a track car..sohc vtec is overated...I've builder more non vtec setups and a great tune you will not be disappointed
DO NOT JUST SWAP THE ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY OVER this is a horrible idea the cam tunnel is just like your main tunnel its a precision bore and just like main caps if you swap cam caps your bore alignment is gonna be off its gonna bind your cam destroy your cam journals and not only have you ruined your head but you ruined the head you pulled the caps off of
“The more you know.” Love this channel.
Great info on the differences! Also good point about potentially needing to freshen up the bottom end as well. I'd probably feel the same way. Fortunately my Z6 is relatively low miles, and not abused, until I got a hold of it ;) Keep up the great content!!
Jdm motors usually have low mileage, you can do a compression check to make sure the rings are good prior to swap. Think you're overthinking this. I just did a z6 head and big cam on my d15b7 bottom end. Best mod so far and I live in Orlando, ready to run ya at the Firm! 😎
How does the minime feel compared to the stock non vtec? Huge difference?
@@ej2brandon383running a better intake manifold and TB and bigger cam definitely yes, pulls to higher rpms, we only took my car to 7400 and its still making power.
Yes, they generally do have low mileage, but they also generally do mostly hard city miles and short trips, so it still could have carbon buildup and wear problems, especially if it wasn't maintained properly. Improper storage can cause rust too. So just like anything else, JDM engines are a risk and I haven't seen any evidence that a "low mileage" JDM engine is more likely to be good than a typical USDM engine out of a wrecked car.
As for the compression test, on these engines, the starter is on the transmission instead of the block, so testing it before installation is easier said than done unless the engine and trans are together or you have a spare trans. Just be aware that a compression test still has its limitations such as not being able to test the oil control rings, valve stem seals, bearings, etc, so good compression doesn't always mean a good engine although it can be a good indication.
The D16A valve train reminds me of the old school D16A6 that came in the EF Si models. You CAN swap one of those VTEC heads onto it, and it would pick up some power, but it wouldn't be as powerful as the Y8 or Z6 due to the lower compression. However, it'd be a noticeable power gain and the compression difference really wouldn't be that noticeable.
You know jamesDmoore did something similar with dropping in a vtec valve assembly from a y8 head to a y7 head with v tech locked.
You can put the vtec cam an walve train in that. It works. Just stays in vtec constantly. Lopy idle sounds cool tho
It uses a p08 head casting which is the z6 head casting, from what I can tell is they use a non vtec rocker setup from a y7 base ( maybe exactly same) and a special cam for that engine.
Somone I Kno said he just grabbed a z6 rocker assembly and z6 cam an VTec solenoid , boom it worked.
Buttttt I have heard this only works if the head has the block off plate ( remove the plate an has to have to oil holes pre drilled out from factory for the solenoid). Idk I haven't had one myself an I built many Frankenstein d16 using different heads with other blocks an even as far as using a z6 crank z6 block a6 pistons y⁸ head ( make sure to fix the dizzy (ie trim reclock) to match ignition timing correct depending on the car ecu obd1 set up etc. Shaved the head use a 2 layer head gasket an ended up around 12.1 with factory parts also port matched an gasket matched everything plus open up some port flow areas by hand stage 3 cam an valve springs was the only aftermarket stuff. Can won alot of money because no one expected it run over b- series the way it did including a gsr set up.
Made high numbers and broke 4 Dyno records for na sohc
Those parts was chosen to give the right clearance and compression even the z6 crank was hunted down because the y8 an y7 only have one oil hole per Rob bearing and the z6 an a6 have 2 per bearing, pluc the a6 pistons was the only one to run with the y8 head for higher compression dude to the piston design and the y8 head small combustion chambers, used a metal head gasket an remove the middle layer plus shaved the head a little an the mild port work for gasket matching etc. Trust me it's a amazing stock set up but when I threw the cam in to be able to use that higher compression better it made twice the gain that it did in a stock y8 vs my Frankenstein,. The motor bought a paid for itself 20+ times tbh because no one expected it to be so vicious ( yes im not telling a few little tricks used to make it just that much better. No I don't mean aftermarket parts, just some mods). BTW used a hondata an turned it with 3 tunes I changed between, one for daily driver gas mpg one for race- safe power and last was a kill mode with higher redline an everything maxed out timing etc straight kill but we know kill mode is never safe or any safety setting used lol
You don’t need vtec head swap to do what you’re doing. At very least though, what you should do is take those arp head studs and add them into that new motor. Those later d16s are notorious for blowing head gaskets. Good to know you’ll have that extra seal.
Interesting video 🤔 didn't really know what the differences between D16A was
Great Video!!
Just throw the y8 cam and valve train and the y8 vtec selinoid and you good to go spot been so dramatic about it it's just as simple as that
Just did this on a Y5 block
@@goambrizyou feel any difference ?
Yah dude, totally agree. no reason to freak out
That's a lot of work, better just to use the Y8 head he has.
@@adrianwilson9464 feels just like my y8 felt like, i liked the idea of changing valvetrain over so i wouldn't need to redo head surface
Please swap the heads 😕
chould swap rocker arms and camshaft and the cam cap top section that holds the lifters if cast matchs
Then down the road you could rebuild the y8 bottom end and have complete motor then just swap it in.
Its a d series, the bolt patterns for the rocker assembly and cam seats are all exactly the same on d series engines, they even bolt up to the black sheep d17's. I frankenstiened a cam gear so I could run a y8 cam in my d17 head so I could have a real vtec. The lobes might be different as in the d17 has 1 lobe for vtec and the y8 has 3 lobes, but they sit in the same position at top dead center so engine timing isn't an issue. You could also rebuild the bottom end of the y8 you already have as in new crank and main seals and new piston rings etc. or you could just pull the block off plate off and put the y8 rocker assembly and camshaft in or even the z6 rockers and cam just make sure the cam gear doesnt sit too far away from the cam sensor and all should be fine with a healthy engine.
I had the same issues but I put the z6 head on my d15b7 block and now I'm having issues with it running properly
You can put a vtec cam and rocker assembly in it. It will always run on vtec
Could try swapping the valvetrain and VTEC solenoid from your Y8 head into the D16A head.🤔
The extra lift from the cam might upset things, though.😅
In fact, it was what I did, I have a d16a and it had that cover where the vtec solenoid goes, I put a vtec camshaft and a vtec solenoid and it works great hahaha
🔥
I think rebuilding the block sounds good. This way your rebuilt head can go on it. Thats what im gonna be doing, getting the long block rebuilt together.
I appreciate your opinion as always Cait! That’s exciting for you that you’ll be rebuilding yours!
That last thing he said im about to try it 💀
I had a non vtec D16 and ran like hell.... Only with Acura integra 89 high comp pistons, type r intake, accord injectors, and was fast
I've done a mini me swap in my experience it runs a little bit better the bottom and I use was often automatic block the top end was from a manual block I also added a turbo hondata computer and it ran very good as I write this I'm building another one
building my first ek with a d16a in it what do u recommend i should upgrade first to make power, also i have a d16y8 head (vtec). Thank you for any suggestions!!!
@@jakemunoz8970
Cheap +5-10hp: intake+header+exhaust+thinner metal hg (always unplug battery/ bridge scs connector after or no gain)
Still cheap +15-25hp:
Y8 head and manifolds + obd1 harnesses and ecu with Y8 base maps (follow mini me instructions)
$3-900 for 200+whp M/T:
Y8 head conversion + Chipped P28 + WB255lp + TD04-13G (lots of research)
I have a y7 but a d16a intake manifold should work can u give me some pointers about this
Gonna need to swap to vtec ecu as well
You have at least 2 vtec heads, just take the springs, cam and cam tower from one of them, then hook up the vtec solenoid and you are good to go.
Sounds good but maybe easeyer than you say.
Hey man I know this is an older video but I'm searching for an engine to put in my 99 Honda civic ex and the original motor is a D16Y8. Do you have any engines for the vehicle that you'd sell?
hi bro just asking d15bz4 none vtec can put d16y8 head ang zc intake manifold can use
Do Locked vtec!
Does anyone know How do u search for a gasket for that block off plate. I'm having a tough time since it a jdm item. All I'm get are block off plates for usdm vtec engine.
Will a d16a6 timing and stuff work for this d16A
I understand.. Just do want u going to do and get ur seat time .
By any chance can you assist me on the location of the D16A EGR VALVE. I can not find it for the life of me. I would totally appreciate the help.
Does any manufacture make total seal rings?
What spark plugs did you use ?
I had installed a d16z6 valve train in my d17a2 and make More mid range power and a little down low power although short lived broke a valve😢
gang
*F*
I've been binge watching from the start 😁👍
Dude just built the whole thing done deal bro
Can I put a y8 head into my d16v1 of my Ep2? I want to get more hp ! Please help me
I love online keyboard automobile professionals. They are genius and know everything about everything. Just throwing on a vtec selenoid wont do shiz. I have a video up of a street pull on my y7 block with y8 head. It's more work than you think
I have that block off plate on my hrv.. if only it was that easy.. does anyone know if you swap to a vtec head do I need a different ecu
No matter what you do it's just going to be dirt slow and torqueless unless you boost it period you run low boost on anyone of those engines and feel the difference believe me you will agree 100%
Hola, me toco un motor d16a igual y le pondré cabeza y8, me ayudarías a saber que tornillos arp utilizaste porque yo tenía los del z6(208-4301) y quedaron muy largos,sera que ocupo los del y8(208-4305), saludos.
brodel dejame saber tambien yo tambien tengo ese problema loco
@@jakemunoz8970 mande pedir los arp de d16y8 qué son más cortos y esos quedaron bien
Stay with the D16A entire engine, and integra pistons with the fresh head and will make a difference
p29 pistons and arp rod bolts bro
Love the content
They are different in head internals mainly camshaft and rocker arms. You cant just put vtec solenoid on a non vtec head cause you want to have vtec.
I had only subscribe because we had the same motor and now I got a whole f20b swap in my civic 😭 still a subscriber tho
I sure appreciate you hangin around with me Richard! I hope you have fun with your new engine
What jdm engine importer you use I need a single cam asap please help
Sunshine JDM in Orlando was cool
I don't know if I fully buy the definition of insanity in your case because you wouldn't be doing the same thing as before unless your last block had as low of miles as the jdm d16a. I would think that fresh head on a low mileage never beat on block would be perfect but that's my opinion and I respect yours too. I've thought about putting a type r head on my low mileage jdm b18c (sir). I can't justify cracking open an engine Honda built with only 50k on it. So I def see both sides!
Is z6 head better on y8 block better
"Don't listen to others, just keep building" - LaTommyLa. Single screamer here (D16A6/A8/Z6 builds in my history, currently on a JDM D15B), but i do think it's a bit nuts you didn't rebuild the Z6 block (not a Y8 fan) with a simple SFR kit. #SaveTheSOHC
Do you prefer the z6 because of the crank having 2 oil passages?
How much did it cost?
Sounds like you know what you need to do. Hope you bought some of those Y oil pumps! Problem is, by the time you factor the cost of doing a full "quality" bottom end race ready rebuild on a D series, take a look at how much money you spent on a motor that is quickly going extinct versus moving to a new engine platform that will be supportable for practically the same money. I still use D to chug around town, if i had a race car still, I would be on K instead of B or D.
Put your old head on and ecu, or a chipped auto, wire it up and done. Your bottom was bad (knocking). But your top Is fine. So new bottom end, used head, done.
Any interest in selling the z6 or Y8 top end? I have a crx and I want to mini me it myself. Serious question let me know
Send me a message through our Instagram please. @refine_movement
Just throw a snail on one of them slow ass civics
Where can I buy a engine in Canada ? Toronto .... my engine blew up in my 00 si
I would just google engine importers in your area.
Refine Movement true thankyou I was looking on Kijiji and stuff was not working good call
Someone had to do a valve train swap only.
D series are very long lasting motors and can take a beating
drive high RPM and still reliable and still last long___ gotta love honda!
this is why people hate on honda... cuz its better than the crap theyre driving !
Simple solution, take the D16A block out, get it bored .50mm over and put high comp pistons and long rods in it with new rings. No worries about burning oil then 😉
I'd leave the d16a as It is and race it all the while I'd build the z6 that way you get the best of both worlds
Well it’s good info yes for people on d series but to my self I own a d series as daily non vtec it deserves to stay that way it’s my daily and reliable. It has a purpose, now your eg hatch you said your self it’s a track 🚗 car for time attack so why messing with low standard class, yes you spend low money 💴 here 50 next week another 100 next month another 200, that’s already 350 bucks all add up with that alone you could get an H series or even a B20 series block, I follow this rule spend once do it once, by continue spending little cash here and there it will eventually add up and reach up to a Bseries class or even H total cost and you will still be in D series’s.. . Trying to make things work and gain more power. Sacrifice the D series sell it all and jump into B or H series do a bread 🥖 and water for a whole month to collect save cash at the end it will be worth it. People spends big money just to be one second faster... I love my D series fully stock daily, I take that thing 200 miles back and forward, 2 or 3 times a week, I oil change every month. I love it 🥰 drive it like a grandpa lol cruise it take my time to my destination. D series best there is for reliability. Remember this, don’t use a butter knife if you wanna cut a New York Steak, that’s what you trying to do in a D series, Pal.
how do i delete vtec on my non vtec civic
Also, I wouldn't be worried about the condition of the JDM block. Those engines are sold with extremely low mileage. Thats why when I bought my JDM J32A I went with a JDM engine over a J32A2 USDM block. I honestly think that you'll be fine swapping that head on.
Just throw in a vtec head just gnna have to do wiring I have the D16A vtec
Different valvetrain
Bro would you put one new shoe and one old shoe on your feet? Lol but good job anyway
lol that’s a good way of putting it man! I did that before and I learned my lesson I think haha. Thanks
That's a egr port
can someone really fucking explain which is better for a 1.5/ 1.6 sohc ? stock or upgraded sohc, a vtec or nonvtec ?
because some says nonvtec is better because blah blah can some1 with exp pls fckign explain thank u
I ran into these problems and found out what my problem was, and that was buying engines off of facebook/craigslist... had to pay more for a warranty engine, but it's the way to go. Unless you know the person.
😅😂😊 bro i have a d15b2 block with a d16a6 head 30 over port and polish 3 angle valves job with d16z6 mani 72 tp with spacer and others like skunk 2 and others things and i eat vtec for lunch old school style mostly all homemade port etc and i even dont have a header on like i said junkyards parts but man man my crx fly plus i dont nd si tranny my cam pull hard enough with some old school adjustment real simple all that VTEC crap that what it is crap for me loose of time when they start hitting vtec im already gone from their view only we used drills out here and ccr song born in the byouooooo and the last one is suavesito latino beacon lard in reality shave the head port and polish and others little things and drill the thing up and bingo time even turbos is a waste of time and money in honda engine power plan is a 72 tp and believe me the a6 head is a monster with air and fuel the resr is history
Just get VTEC killer cams lol
Yeah your right you dont make scene because the d16a will work better then the y8 any day dude
But seriously, throw the damn Y8 head on there. The motor will be fine and if it wasn't already burning/consuming oil it's not gonna start just because you have a VTEC head on there. Epecially since you got new valve seals put in which is USUALLY the culprit of oil consumption rather than piston rings, prior to contrary belief. Throw the damn thing on there and send it
facepalm
Swap heads
Tenemos el mismo motor, lastima que no hablo ingles para por entender toda tu explicacion :-(
I would NOT GO SOHC VTEC....you can build the non vtec head and have power throughout the powerband...esp ifits a track car..sohc vtec is overated...I've builder more non vtec setups and a great tune you will not be disappointed
Great video You should check out Texas Honda channel on CZcams he does some really great stuff that you’re talking about
DO NOT JUST SWAP THE ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY OVER this is a horrible idea the cam tunnel is just like your main tunnel its a precision bore and just like main caps if you swap cam caps your bore alignment is gonna be off its gonna bind your cam destroy your cam journals and not only have you ruined your head but you ruined the head you pulled the caps off of
I am so confused bruv