My Hyundai IONIQ 5 Died In My Driveway & Others Seem To Be As Well! What's Going On Here?
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
- Dave woke up to a dead 2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5 EV in his driveway. After just 3 weeks of ownership it appears that the 12V systems have drained and required a jumpstart. While this happened to Dave, it seems according to the forums, it's happening to others as well. What do you think is going on?
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#Hyundai #IONIQ5 #EV - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for sharing your situation, Dad! A lot of people are thinking it’s the OBD dongle, however your car was sitting just for a few hours overnight. Even if that Dongle was running full power there’s no way it could drain the 12V. Also, it’s seemingly happening to other cars without the dongle. My prediction is that it’s unrelated. Either way, let’s hope for a software update or a fix for this soon!
ODB killed the battery on my ICE so I've unplugged it and the problem went away. Mine was hot to the touch all the time.
I agree but your Dad should try keeping everything unplugged to see if it helps. It's possible the 12V battery isn't being charged enough and slowly losing charging instead of gaining it over time.
I'd agree on at least suspecting the OBD. I have a mid-level Autel wired OBD and it is pulling amperage the minute you plug in (whether the vehicle is on or off). Hard to say that's the full cause as this has happened to people without OBDs.
Either a parasitic draw or perhaps an issue with the drive battery not automatically charging the 12V. I know I see the amber charge indicator on my I5 working fairly often and I've had no issues (I5 Limited owned since Feb 9).
100% the dongle. That is consistently pinging on a port that is powered. I did testing and was seeing it’s trickling power from the 12v battery pack. Never leave it plugged in.
Even if the ODB is drawing power, why isn't the car monitoring the 12v battery voltage and applying a charge from the high voltage battery??
Next time it happens, you should check the battery voltage with a multimeter before hooking the booster battery to it. That would tell you if the battery has discharged or if this is an issue with the car’s software.
That was exactly what I was about to suggest. My theory is that this is a battery voltage monitoring glitch. For some reason, the car thinks the battery voltage has dropped below a certain threshold (lets say 11.9V), or it happens momentarily for some reason, which kicks on some power saving circuit for the 12V battery. When the jump starter is then connected, and the car sees the battery voltage above another threshold (lets say 13.1V) it thinks the battery has recovered or is back online, and wakes up the car.
The fact that this happens instantly implies that the battery was never actually low, somehow the voltage monitoring circuit has the wrong values or thinks something is happening while in reality nothing is going on.
Also, using a clamp meter to determine the “idle current” from a fully charged battery into the vehicle electronics would be additional useful data.
If there’s only a few mA of current and the problem persists, it may be worth swapping out the battery for a new one, to either confirm or eliminate that part. (Sometimes perfectly new batteries do strange things, and rather than time consuming and potentially damaging “fault finding” activity possibly resulting in damaged or corrupted ECU’s or the like, swapping out easily accessible items involved in the fault, is a safer bet, avoiding costly and potentially warranty cancelling damage.)
….in the event that current in excess of 100mA is detected above it would be worth also checking any interior lights are staying on. If that’s difficult to check you could remove them temporarily and then measure again.
Multimeter voltage check and current clamp meter check on battery should be done when car is in (home) charge mode, to confirm 12V charger is operating (>13v) and current direction is reversed. Depending on batter SOC (State Of Charge) you should see between maybe a few mA or less than 1amp, and maybe upto 5A (~60W of charge energy is safe heat and current wise) if battery has been in an episode of going dead flat.
These figures are rough guides but should prove helpful.
Of interest to know Battery Brand/Model and “CCA” rating…. Perhaps a pinned comment with those details for those of us who are “techies” and can then interpret and advise.
Although, it's not stated in any way form or shape, I am assuming that the 12 VDC battery is a standard "Lead/Acid" battery type. If this is true then, you could have a good voltage reading on a practically dead battery. A common cause for such a problem is known and documented as "Sulfated Battery".
Cheers
Just about to say the same thing. A cheap $20 multimeter will do to check voltage. Expect about 12.5V.
DC current clamp meter..a fair bit more expensive.
Bottom line is the car is faulty in some way It's not the owners fault.
We just bought an Ioniq5 and immediately replaced the 12 volt battery with a lithium battery. And installed a battery monitor. So far all is good.
Can you share a link to the lithium battery you bought please
Just a little thought that might mean nothing: my 2009 Prius had a proximity key that was never supposed to be left in or near the car, for the key would leave the car in a readiness mode that potentially could drain the battery by keeping a computer awake. This was according to my Toyota owner’s manual.
Dave, thank you for sharing your experience. I have the Ioniq PHEV, and read about this issue on the forums too. Fortunately, I have not encountered this issue, but I purchased a small jump start battery like yours just in case. Hyundai definitely needs to figure out what’s going on here. At the very least, let customers know it’s a possible problem, and give them a jump starter so they’re not stranded somewhere.
I took my Ioniq 5 2022 to the Hyundai today and learned that there was a system recall software update that they agreed to install. I am writing this from waiting room of the dealership while I wait for the update to finish!
I suggest all owners check with their dealers to update!
They agreed to install? The car doesn't have OTA updates..?
Just last week bought a little jump box for my ICE car, and it’s been a total lifesaver. I agree with you Dave. It’s great to have. Keep us posted on what you find out.
They are awesome things to have except when you get a flat battery in the other car lol
Unplug the Circuit City you have going on in your car and see if it drains again. You can’t determine anything with that many devices left plugged in. It could be the app but you need to eliminate all of the other variables to determine that.
Everything plugged in looked like handheld devices. It certainly didn’t look like enough 0.025kWh devices to drain a 72kWh vehicle battery overnight!
@@Malpriorvids i think its not draining the main battery, just the 12v battery that starts up the car? I agree that maybe he should unplug all devices for a few nights to try out if it works. I used to have Blackvue dashcam that it supposed to cut off power supply to the camera when my car battery reached 12volt. But somehow it still draws power from the car battery and rendered it dead the next day. All I'm saying is... Give it a try, unplug all external accessories.
@@Malpriorvids EVs have smaller 12V batteries. Hilarious hes wondering why it drains yet has like a million devices plugged into his car. Lmao.
@@webguy943 my 10y old R58 Mini only provides 12V power when the engine is running.
Can be annoying, but I never had the problem that I couldn’t start the car, no matter how low the battery got. It simply stops using any battery without engine running when it is low enough.
Seems that Hyundai needs to redo some of their basic homework.
OTH: having an OBD connected is sketchy af!
@@webguy943 in car chargers tend to switch off when the engine is off however he tested those and that wasn't the issue. I have a similar 12v parasitic drain on my 12 plate civic. There is a device called an mcu that fails to detect a relay and thinks it needs to provide power to what I think is the door circuit. If it's a similar common issue here then it is unlikely to be the stuff he has plugged in
Here in Germany some I5-owners had the same problem, a drained 12v battery. The issue is the chargeport. Like you mentioned with the door, it tryes to open and close all the time and drains the battery. But thats just what i watched on youtube, maby your case is different.
Probably a similar issue to the Kona - in some (unknown) circumstances, the car doesn't fully go to sleep when switched off. Leaving the boot (trunk)not quite latched is one cause
Easy way to figure out what circuit is drawing power. Just get an infrared camera or laser thermometer. After the car has been off for a while check the temperature of the fuses. Whichever one is still warm is the circuit drawing power. Then check the box and see what that circuit powers and fix that issue.
Wouldn’t you need to keep the hud open for this? This alone will activate parts of the car.
@@raylab77 No. The car is powered off. The goal is just to see what is drawing power when it's off.
cool idea 👍
It’s the blue link. I pulled the fuse and the draw stopped.
My guess on this issue is a software issue. Leaving some part of the computer more active than intended causing the drain. Like you said an additional draw then intended. The jump pack worked immediately as once the computer booted up, it was able to turn on the DC-DC converter for the 12v system.
Everyone should keep one of these 12v jumper packs no matter what car they own. I have purchased and maintained one in every vehicle I've owned. Have to remember to check on them every month or so too, as some drain faster than others.
Thank you for all of your videos and sharing your experience ❤️
Another thanks from a new Ioniq 5 owner. Glad I got to see this issue as well as the temporary resolve. While I have had the limited version for a few weeks I have not had this problem but will certainly purchase a power bank for potential future emergency use. I do notice the yellow light on the dashboard comes on almost every night, at least while the temps in my garage are below 50 F and I understand it is indicating that the 12V battery is charging. Look forward to more comments from you about your experiances.
My yellow light came on all the time, then it didn’t and the battery was dead. Now the car does not charge the 12 volt and has a battery drain. Dealer is clueless.
I am guessing that your fob activates the car. On a Subaru that we used to own we had the fob in line of sight to the car and that drained the battery. When we stored the fob in another location, the problem was solved. Could this be the cause?
Great review. Which model did you buy? And how much did it cost out the door?
two 12” screens, one ipad, one cell phone, and a radar detector. no officer i wasn’t distracted 😳
The newer Kona’s (2020 and later here in Norway) have been having these issues as well. I’ve heard that the 12V batteries that come from the factory are notoriously bad. From what I’ve read most people have had the issue solved after switching the 12V battery. However it could be that the energy consumption is badly administered considering the connected features when the vehicle is off.
I've had the issue in the last two newer cars that I've owned the first being a Kia where I exactly 3 years with little warning the battery died and then on my Volkswagen GTI where the only sign was too slow starts and during the day and then died on the third attempt at around the 3-year mark. A lot of systems that are communicating with the car using the battery including solenoids cooling fans auto unlock features any interior light options that are tied to door unlocked status or any door latches that are not registering as closed.
I had the same problem with my Hyundai Sonata hybrid, replaced the battery 3 time in one year, can’t handle a non reliable vehicle! I think any Hyundai’s with ev or hybrid are having these problems with batteries. I went a chat room about this problem, it’s a widely known issue! I sold my car to a dealer who wanted it real bad!
@@diydrivenGA After 3 years , points to a worn out battery, not other problems.
This is all quite interesting! I own a Renault Megane and it appears that every three years I need a new battery as well. This is a standard 1.6 lt gasoline engine however it is equipped with an immobilizer system. I know for fact that this is a parasitic draw on the battery, it is always "listening" for the correct code from the smart card that controls the unlock and immobilizer system. All battery failures have occurred during the hot summer months. Heat is also detrimental to the battery under a hot hood of a car that sits outside all year long. I have considered installing a small solar panel on the rear deck and connecting it directly through the battery. For safety the panel should be fused on both terminals right at the battery. There should be no issue of overcharging the battery if one uses a panel that provides 500 milliamperes current ( 1/2 amp). This should offset the parasitic load caused by the immobilizer or any wireless access control of the vehical. The final issue is quality control at the battery manufacturing site. Most come from china believe it or not! Quality = Zero. I have also had one incident where I installed an Optima Spiracell battery into one of my older cars many years ago. These are very expensive high quality batteries. Well mine failed after three months. Replaced for free. Never had an issue with the replacement. It went for 6.5 years without a glitch.
This actually happened at the dealership when I went to test drive an Ioniq 5. Got there and despite being plugged into the charger, the car was a complete doorstop.
🤣
I’ve had this problem with my Kona EV. The culprit is usually an interior light left on, sometimes from a door or rear hatch not being closed all the way. Since learning about it, no more problems. But I am careful to check the car before walking away. If the 12V is too dead, jump starter may not work. It is easily and quickly recharged by most battery chargers.
@@Anandan1504 I've had similar issues with my 2010 hybrid Mercury Milan, due to my forgetting to disconnect "always on" 12 volt accessories in the car (like dashcam, phone chargers, etc).
As long as the car "sees" 12volts, the main system will come on and recharge the battery/run the 12v systems, etc. The 12v battery can be completely dead and the jump starter will still work perfectly to "wake up" the car.
I've been saying for years that these manufacturers should engineer a "fail-safe" circuit into the system that would allow the owner to manually turn on the 12v charge system on the main hybrid (or in this case, fully electric) battery pack so that carrying a 12v jump starter would be unnecessary. It's extremely short-sighted to have all that energy readily available and have no way to access it enough to get the car's systems to "wake up." All Toyota hybrids (I have a hybrid Highlander, too) suffer from the same design flaw. Even though the vehicle would run perfectly without the 12v battery present (once the car was "running"), the system needs to "see" that 12v when you turn the key/press start in order to "wake up" and be ready to drive.
@@steverossvoiceover We also have a Kia Niro Hybrid (2017) where the engineers were aware of the problem with the Prius, and provided what is in effect a “jump start” button for the 12V system if you’ve accidentally run it down. This is a separate reserve so it is always available. I’ve never had to to use it, but at least they thought about it. Like many others, I find it incredible that Hyundai (and obviously most other manufacturers) have acted like this is a non-problem and have not devised a simple solution like Kia (which is sister company to Hyundai) or a software fix that senses when the battery is draining away and disconnects it before the car reaches the point of non-response. It doubly blows my mind that Hyundai, who was keenly aware of the problem in the Kona EV, did nothing different in the Ioniq5. . .maybe they just think you’re stupid if you leave a light on or fail to completely close a door. But cars do lots of other things to prevent your stupidity from harming you, like, for instance, stopping you before you run over a pedestrian or slam into the rear end of a car in front of you. The discharge of the 12V system is a problem that seems much simpler to solve than, say, crash prevention.
Had it only sat overnight, or was it sitting longer than that?
I'm wondering if it's something related to the entry system. When you switch the car "off", it's really in standby mode. It's looking for the signal from the key fob to tell it to present the door handles. Maybe that receiver is drawing too much power.
Thanks for this video. After watching it I ordered a charger, even though I haven't had a problem (yet). I noticed the cable at 4:42 in the video. I'm going to run a cable on a similar path to my phone holder. Do you mind sharing what clips you used to hold the cable? The ones I tried wouldn't stick firmly.
By the way, those Type-S portable batteries are the best (and other brands I suppose). They're so convenient and hold their charge for a long time. I got one at Costco and have helped my self and others who needed a charge. They great for people who have a dead battery but aren't in a position to get a car next to them to jump the old fashioned way. Highly recommend.
thanks man for let people know that we can use those . in case of battery emergencies. im goin to buy one my self . just incase . :)
They are available at any Costco and are well worth it. The model I have jumps your car, has USB -A and C outputs and wireless charging. A flashlight as well. Sits in the trunk of my Outback.
ya my sister has one. its practically magic that something so small can boost a car.
I’ve never heard of Type S but I have something similar called Halo…bought it from QVC several years ago and it still works just fine…had to use it a couple times and worked like a charm! 😉👍🏼✌🏼
There are so many to choose from, how do you pick one?
Thanks for the great video! I had no idea this was an issue. When I come out of my house in the morning, I’m usually already running 5-10 minutes late for work. I have no time to plan on for a dead battery every few weeks. Between the suboptimal kWh/mile consumption, the $5-7k dealer surcharge and the 12v battery issue, I’m rethinking the purchase of an Ioniq 5.
Ya I was thinking of getting it as well but I agree with what they say. I guess I'll just wait for Model Y in June.
Just ask for a $3,000 discount because of these problems.
@@tedmoss local dealers want $11k over sticker and they sell out almost immediately.
If you pay over sticker price for one of these things then you are a special kind of stupid.
I support your message to Hyundai and I love how you phased it all. Keep us up to do on this.
I have had my Ioniq 5 SE AWD since December. I too bought the jumper battery based on others' reviews. I have had the ODB2 monitor in the whole time also based on recommendations. So far, I have had no issues. I am coming up on 5K miles. Keeping my fingers crossed.
An interesting video. I don't own an EV and I probably won't own one in the near future, but I find them interesting. If it isn't too much of an inconvenience, I suggest that you unplug all of your accessory items and use your vehicle that way for a few weeks to see if the problem reoccurs. If all is well, just plug in one item, the one that you need the most, and use your vehicle that way for a week or two. Then you can continue adding additional items in a similar fashion until the problem reoccurs. Hope this helps.
Great vlog about the car. Regardless what the draw is, in my opinion. The technology at this point should be able to sense while parked, that there is a parasitic draw and throw a code and or at 50% batt, shut off the culprit. That seems like a simple software upgrade by hyundai. The 90s are over Hyundai, a decade which you may wish to forget but please, don't leave people stranded.
That’s an intriguing issue. Especially it’s such a new car. I’m sure you and Hyundai will figure it out.
When I plugged in my obd ii in my Benz it drained the battery dead. I always thought the obd is an always on thing.
Another good way to trouble shoot is to get a battery tender and fully charge the battery and see how long it takes to drain again and take out one variable at a time that is under your control.
I’m curious on your results as well keep us posted.
I’ve had the identical problem with my 2019 Hyundai Kona EV. Twice I found it completely dead in my driveway with over 50% charge on the main battery. Road service knew exactly how to get the car operational. The dealer’s answer was to replace the 12v auxiliary battery.
I would be interested in seeing what the voltage was on the 12V battery. I wonder if there is a safety switch that trips when the voltage drops too much, and when you hook up the pack it drives the voltage up where it resets the switch.
If it helps, Voltage on mine was about 6 Volts before installing the a jump pack.
@@spazzman90 that is quite low. I'm sure a software patch could fix this.
Would love to know the voltage of the battery when the car thinks it’s dead. Reason being is the way the car responded to the jump pack. It was instant. Also watching the voltage adjust after the jump pack is removed would show how the car is responding to the battery state.
Not sure if it helps, but my battery was at 6 Volts before putting on the jump pack. For all intents, the car was dead.
@@spazzman90 thanks for sharing.
You should have checked the voltage of the battery first before putting the jumper on it. Was it really dead? or did the battery pack just wake the system.
The dead car symptom seems similar to my 2011 Nissan Leaf that will go dead if its 12volt accessory battery lacks a charge. Once I trickle charged the accessory battery back up the car runs normally. I'm on my second accessory battery since my Leaf is over 10 years old.
XC40 Recharge forums have some threads about similar issues on that model (unexplained 12v drainage), and some folks saying they saw the same on Mach-E forums - but not at a widespread level on either car it seems. Wonder if there could be some similar root causes though.
Mach-E was a software issue on early build cars that was fixed, but then more recently a junction box that is supposed to charge the 12V has failed on some cars and has had to be replaced. Unlike this Ioniq 5, when the Mach-E 12V completely goes, jump starting it doesn't bring the car back and it needs to be flat-bedded to the dealer.
There's someone out of the UK that had the same issue and started using a battery monitor - he switched over to Utility mode for a time and hasn't had the issue come up again. Just out of curiosity which brand and model was your battery jump pack? so many of them are overkill for this use case. I tend to agree with the other commenters that it probably has to do with something with either the charge door or even perhaps the 4G radio and BlueLink - I've had my Hyundai Santa Cruz for almost a year now and when parked in the garage it'll send a push notification (sometimes more than a couple) that my doors are unlocked. The software is probably very different from the IONIQ 5 but it could be some "bad code" where it's not allowing the DC to DC charging to kick in to bring the 12v battery back up to where it needs and even normal use / driving is wearing down that battery. What is throwing most people for a loop (IMO) is that they are applying what they know about cars with a "normal" charging system and not taking in to consideration that there's no alternator and most of what charging activity is governed by software that may not be 100% sorted yet.
I’ve been using the Veepeak for about 4 years, and when I installed it on my car the literature told me not to leave it plugged in and yes it would drain the battery the blue light is to show the Bluetooth connectivity. I hope that helps.
I like these because, like older sedans, they have a split bench seat in the front. It's not a real seat, since it's too small, but the idea is to give leg room, comfort, and easy access to both front doors on either side. I like how this looks. Can't wait to see what other people do with it. It's old, but it's new again.
It's amazing to me that an EV, with a huge battery pack, will ever let the tiny 12V battery run down.
Crap software design. The Mach E had the same issue at first.
There is a DC to DC converter that charges the 12V battery but not when it's off (and probably not when it's charging in the "off" state.)
The Nissan Leaf was known for doing this, too. I keep mine on a battery tender jr. when at home. The dc-to-dc converter doesn’t output enough voltage to keep the 12v battery charged. Interesting fact: The 12v output increases significantly if you turn on the windshield wipers, so the problem is reduced in rainy weather.
I think it's unfortunate that there's still hundreds of 12v parts in cars these days to begin with. Elons spoken before about moving to 48 v parts before, and just powering them direct off the main battery. All these legacy systems gotta go
@@-Jethro- If the 12v output is "increase significantly," then wouldn't that drain the 12v battery even faster?
I will commend Hyundai for being proactive. I reached out to them on Twitter and in a survey they sent about my experience with the car, mentioning safety concerns about their NVH material underneath the vehicle as well as the significant snow and ice accumulation inside the engine bay. About a week later, today, I received a phone call from my local Hyundai dealership who said two engineers from Hyundai Korea were flying in this week and asked permission for them to look at it to see if the issues could be addressed and areas in question improved upon.
Can you update us here if you get an answer back.
Ask them to be "proactive" with the fires :) They were even destroying evidences.
What a joke you trolls
@@SLeeSG LG batteries
@@SLeeSG wat?
@@myuzu_ Ioniq 5 uses SK on Battery not LG. Please note.
I would start checking the voltage across the battery for a few days in a row to see if there is a voltage drop over the course of a few days when the car is shut down (you should have approx 12V). You can also check the fuses to see if there is any amperage draw across the fuse block for the 12V controlled accessories. I dont have an EV so i am not sure what is on the 12V rail
Grounding issue or hook up a volt meter whats the draw on the 12v with everything switched off? Should be able to eliminate depending on how much is being drawn from the battery. Is there an auto heater or pre warmer installed?
I would leave the ODB dongle unplugged when you turn off the car. Those are notorious for draining the 12 volt battery in EVs and ICE cars. Even though it looks like it’s off the car senses it’s plugged in and that keeps the port up and running.
100% try this first
I agree Stephen. We used to have our car insurance with a company that had one of those ODB drive monitoring devices. If we went on vacation and left our Honda Odyssey or CRV parked for more than 5 days, we'd be getting a jump when we got back. Since switching to a different insurance company without the devices, we haven't had a problem.
Also I never had a problem with my 2019 Kona EV and the 12v battery. It seems to always charge the 12v from the traction battery as evidence by the yellow dot on the front of the grill.
Hope you are able to track it down. Keep on making the videos, they are super helpful.
@@daveo.9172 You got to tell us which insurance company that you had that required the OBD.
@@Investor9872 Allstate insurance.
Stephen is 100% right.
If it was cold soaked, or there was a vampire drain on the low voltage without the dcdc being active, the 12v battery got drained or voltage drop.
I had a similar issue with a brand new gas car, ended up being an issue with the trunk liftgate, the motor kept consuming power after the car was turned off, was recalled and replaced on this year's entire lineup
You can't leave the OBD2 stuff plugged in. I had that problem with my Chevy truck and it ended up being the hptuners plug
The VW ID3 when 1st released in Europe had the same dead 12v battery in the morning issue and required a software patch to fix. That could be another avenue of research. Good luck.
How does the 12V being charged? With a solar panel? I am assuming the battery only power the electronics which does not require much power.
Is there any way to prevent the 12v battery from dying? I'm worried that being inside of my EV6, fiddling with the settings and customization options, without driving it will kill it.
You kind of hit on what the problem is not. It doesn't appear to be a dead 12v due to the fact everything woke up and continued to work after the connected the mini pack. Something is disconnecting the 12v from the system causing it to go to sleep.
I have the same suspicion, the battery didn't die, the software crashed. Jumping the car caused a reboot.
Was the car sitting several days? Modern cars and EVs are always on, talking to themselves or services like OnStar, listening for your app, etc. I've had to put a battery tender on our cars about every two weeks otherwise the 12v can get pretty low.
Could be but I have a Hyundai Santa Cruz with about the same 4G OTA (BlueLink) stuff and I may go 2 weeks or longer - the battery has to start my car's engine and I've not had any issues with the 12v. I'm thinking there's an issue with the charging system's software - it's simply not allowing the big EV battery to charge the 12v accessory battery.
Maybe it's a BMS (battery management system) issue. Do you often notice the light on the top of the dash? When the light is on the 12v is being charged by the main battery. 2020 Kona EV owner
great video, it's been 9 months, have you found the root cause of this 12v issue? I just ordered a ioniq 5 and it'll come within the next 3 years and hope that's fixed by then
great video! can't wait for the next one!
I had this issue with two Subarus. The issue I found was because of the key FOB. My keys were hung about 10-15 feet from the cars and caused the BT or whatever proximity comms it uses to continuously cause the car to communicate with each other. Haven't had issues since moving keys farther away.
Subaru has had various battery problems and there have been lawsuits filed. We had issues on three of our last five Subarus, a 2015 Legacy, 2016 Outback, and 2019 Ascent. The 2018 Impreza was okay and so far the 2021 Legacy has not had battery problems.
@@kamX-rz4uy Dude stop buying Subarus. I hate the way corporate responds to known problems and often puts the blame on their customers. The Subaru dealers are Awesome in spite of corporate! Dealers often find solutions too problems and communicate with each other. After my valve spring broke on my 2013 BRZ at 48k miles and Subaru would not cover it. I sold the car. Then Subaru recalled the 13 for................ a valve spring problem 4 years after the cars were first sold. The Wagon fire problems in the 1990s. The head gasket problems that Subaru never acknowledged, Agin the dealers stepped up. Subaru is dead to me. I loved the way the cars drove ( when they worked).
@@kamX-rz4uy and you still buy Subaru?
@@ronsejour They have their issues but I buy them because they offer the best combination of features and price and overall are good cars. I'm not a Subaru fanatic and do look at other brands but end up getting another one.
@@fatboy19831 Subaru is quick to address safety issues but agreed that corporate has earned a bad reputation otherwise. Unfortunately other companies are guilty of the same or worse so pick your lesser evil and hope you don't get burned.
I have A Ioniq Classic hybrid that "doesn't" have a 12v battery. If the 12v system goes dead all I have to do is hit a button inside the car and the system recharges it's self with the onboard battery. I don't understand why Hyundai has the tech and chooses not to use it on a pure BEV.
They do use it on BEVs.
I have a Kona electric and it regularly recharges the 12v battery using the main battery
I have the same button with my sonata 21 hybrid. I think because the battery packs on electric car is bigger than hybrid
@@Johnsmith69448 VW also does recharge from the traction battery.
Interesting Comment on getting a charge from the main Battery. My Wife has 2018 KIA Nero and we leave it in Florida for 6 months and in order to get it started, I have to do something similar. There is a switch we turn off when we leave Florida. We are in Sebring and have done some parade laps at the 12 Hours Track on Chin Track Days.
As i understand most (all?) EV's disconnect the big battery when car is off for security reasons, so if there is a drain when car is turned off it might not help since the relay need the 12 volt battery to flip it.
I got the same issue with my Kia. It is the Bluetooth OBD dongle that stays on when you run Car Scanner, even though your car is off. It must be designed so that troubleshooting can continue over the OBD port after turning off the car. I now monitor my 12v battery with a simple battery monitor
I would say the obd is part of the problem because with my eGolf I left my obd in one time and it ended up killing the 12v battery after a few days. It has a blue light too but it was not on. So I would not leave it in too long if you’re not using the car
(Former) automotive diagnostic technician here. (Just recently went back to school to study electrical engineering). This seems like a software issue. Hyundai/Kia (as well as many other EV manufacturers) will normally use the HV battery as backup for the 12V battery. If the 12V battery SOC drops too much, it will kick on the HV system to recharge the 12V battery. Of course, if the vehicle is experiencing a software glitch, all bets are off. The older Hyundai/Kia models turn on a light somewhere on the car when it is turning on the HV system to replenish the 12V battery. On my old Kona, it was a yellow light in the middle of the front badge. Also, regarding the Ioniq that drained the 12V battery while charging, that definitely should not happen because the vehicle will keep the 12V charging system active while charging due to the vehicle electronics staying on to monitor the HV battery while charging.
Fairly certain this is a software issue of something staying on when it shouldn’t, and also not charging the 12V battery off the HV battery when it should. There is an outside chance that it could be related to the OBD dongle if it is somehow keeping the CAN bus active and causing module(s) to stay online, but the dongle itself doesn’t draw enough electricity to kill a battery that size overnight. Maybe over the course of a week, but not overnight. I’ve never had an OBD dongle like that cause an issue, and I have an OBDLink dongle that I’ve left plugged into my Bolt for months without a drain issue. The only thing that sometimes happens is it will interrupt the vehicles ability to transmit diagnostic info back to OnStar, so I’ll get an angry email from OnStar saying that they can’t spy on my car. I’d suggest contacting your local service department directly and bring this up to them. There may be a tech service bulletin from Hyundai regarding this issue, or their engineering team may be looking for cars that have had this issue so they can retrieve data from them to determine the problem. If there is a software update for the issue (or any other common fault that they’ve found), the dealer service departments can learn about the repair from a technical service bulletin issued by the manufacturer.
Our Ioniq 5 SEL AWD had an incident where some sort of fan was running with the car parked- I locked and unlocked the car and the fan stopped. Also our car periodically charges the 12V battery from the HV battery- this is indicated by the amber light on the dash. So definitely a software glitch that is causing the normal recharging not to happen. Hyundai can learn from their own forum where this subject is discussed at length.
The 12 V automatic maintenance has strict limits on how much recharging it can do. At least on my Ioniq PHEV, it only charges it for up to 20 minutes once every 3 days, as per the manual. It isn't enough to compensate for drain from external devices. My battery still drains to dead if I leave my dash cam on in parking mode for a few days without driving, even though I confirmed the battery recharging activates just fine. I suspect it is designed only to compensate for the onboard computer's power usage, and external device drain was not considered when they determined the limitations on how much charging the automatic battery maintenance routine could do, and it's probably the same issue on Ioniq 5. More of a software design flaw than a bug/defect, if that's the case.
Electric vehicles at this time sucks.
@@GlenwingThink For the sake of sanity keep buying gas vehicles.
@@nadalhector2148 Thanks for your input, I found your comment very persuasive and my position and views have completely shifted.
Is there a link to that jump start unit you have ?
Yeah can you provide that? I didn't see any like yours for $35 only $99
Dave as far as I know the 12v battery charges from the regeneration paddles. Do you use these much ? If not go to settings and put regeneration on auto. I always have regenerate on auto and it’s just one less stress. The 12v battery will automatically recharge itself when your driving then.
Does Ioniq 5 have batter saver mode? On my Kona Electric, I used to be able to turn this function on or off. However, after a software update at the dealership, this function is ON all the time.
Did anything like this happen with any of your VW ID4s?
Not on mine yet🤞🏼I’ve had mine since Aug last year
I have had my Ioniq 5 2022 for the last 2 months never had this issue but it makes me nervous knowing such a problem may happen. It doesn't make sense to have an electric car and have a full battery but come to a dead 12V battery! I wonder why those engineers didn't think of it I am sure it is a very easy fix for them but to know it may happen to any of us is not right! Hyundai if you see these comments and video please fix it! I love my car but knowing such flaws in your system is makes all us nervous 😓
Tesla has this problem early-on as well. They fixed it somehow and I haven't heard about any problems since. Also, Tesla is now starting to use Lithium-Ion 12V batteries which should fix this issue once and for all.
If it were an easy fix it would have been taken care of already.
In Korea there is an engineer in a white lab coat looking out over the Soul skyline from his corporate office with his head hung in shame.
Well, the engineers didn't think of putting in a rear wiper either!
@@johnnyViDeO huge aerodynamic drain. Hiding one is expensive and hurts styling. Say goodbye to the rear wiper on electric cars.
@@fatboy19831 The aerodynamic is not very effective at all. I live in Vancouver BC Canada and we have lots of rain and I really miss a wiper on this car.
If I had guess...and I do, lol.... I would say it's a software update or the battery sensor on 12v neg battery lead. While working on a service desk for a few years in Kia shop...I've seen a far number of these go bad.
I notiched phone ot tabled pretty much wired to the left of the steering wheel. Could be this one the reason for the 12V Battery drained?
Had the exact same happening once last week here in Norway. I've had it for a month now and I got an Ioniq 5 Premium AWD. Nothing in common with you here, besides having a lightning cable connected (without an iPhone). I have this bulky jump starter, but I will be buying a similar smaller jump starter as you to keep in the frunk. I had the same issue with my last car, the VW ID.3 1st Max, but that was a software issue. Once that update came through, no problem (the big battery then charged the 12V battery on a regular basis, even when the car was not running). But I have no idea if this is the same. As you said; this is so basic, it shouldn't be a problem on a new car! Hyundai HAVE to fix this.
why are you surprised? they really don't make a lot of EVs, it's not their area of expertise and it's not their profit center
@@bluetoad2668 Because it's a car that cost the same that I make a year, before tax. But hey, I'm naive.
Will try to make this short. I have own a Ford Fusion Hybrid for 10 years. They also had this issues in many of their hybrids. In a odd circumstances I ran into a tech for Ford. The battery isn’t dead just falls below what is needed for computer. It’s about 3/10 of a volt if I remember correct. That is why it needs very little “bum” to work. A new OME battery was the fix, and Ford payed for it. Good luck!
Toyota Hybrid really freaked out when 12v was low also
Very strange indeed. I have a 2021 sonata hybrid limited that has a seperate 12v section built into the larger battery pack. It is however, maintained also by the solar panel roof that charges both batteries. Wonder if having a solar trickle charger could be a bandaid fix while hyundai works on fix?
I've had the same problem with my 2019 Ioniq. I carry a jumpstart pack like yours. I've always suspected that somethings wrong with the Battery Saver not kicking in.
Your car has the same spec (battery size and AWD) or those do not count in this case ?
Must be frustrating for a new car to have such an issue. Especially when dealers don’t know the root cause. Hyundai need to be on this right away. Unfortunately, until there is a significant number of these reported, probably nothing will be done. You seem to be taking it with a better attitude than I might. Good luck with finding the root cause. I like your videos, so keep filming.
It is pretty oblivious that they are jumping all over this problem, something with the management system most likely.
Hi Dave, enjoying your reviews. I think the problem is a combination of your short trips, usage of various devices and lights etc. that draw on the 12V battery and the 12V battery charger being undersized. You may be able to fix this by going into the Utility Mode (see the manual for how to do this) and telling the car to use the main battery rather than the 12V battery for many devices. I presume this comes at a cost of the main battery having to be managed even when the car is off and something draws on it, and hence draining a little even when the car is off. Looking forward to your update.
I'm agree with you on this
Great advice.
It would also help to see if there are any tell-tale things that are draining the 12v, as it would show overnight drain with them plugged in as opposed to nothing left plugged in. It might be a good test?
It's not. I drive mine all day, almost every day. And then one day, I come out and the car is dead. Like 6 Volts left in the battery dead. That is after sitting for about 9 hours from the day before. It's got to be a fairly heavy draw.
I'm curious as to why the cellphone needs to be on the dash in the first place unless this car doesn't have Nav, Apple car play or equivalent? Also what info is the Ipad giving you that the inst panel is not?
Hi Dave I have a 2015 VW e Golf SEL that was sold in California when it was new and now lives in Canada and I too have a Vee peak dongle in my OBD 2 diagnostic port all the time and I have no problems with my 12 Volt batterie the car has now 93 409 km or 58 042 milles and it's the original battery of the car the production date on the negative post is 34 week of 2014 I know that the VW ID3 in Europe had problems with the 12 volt batterie and they had to replace some module and some software updates to get rid of the problems
it would be nice to see if you could put a multimeter inline with the negative side of the batterie and see how long it takes for the car to go into sleep mode and see how much milliamps the car car draws on the batterie if should be no more than 50 milliamps and preferably much lower like 10 to 20 this would be cool to see if you don't know how to do it ask the Hyundai dealer to test it and see how high it goes and what is the normal for this car.
Thanks for sharing your experience, Mr. C. I immediately ran to Costco and found the same Type S jump battery you have for $59-even if I never use it, the peace of mind is well worth it. (I really like my Ioniq 5 SEL RWD.)
So you have to get in all this problems with a new Hunday Ionic 5??Electric cars at this time suck.
@@nadalhector2148 these kind of problems can easily occur with gasoline-run cars too)
Dave, The OBDII dongle maybe the culprit. Also, I suggest you test the voltage on the battery BEFORE you plug it to the jumper box. Just to make sure that, indeed, the battery is out of juice; because it maybe a contact issue that gets resolved after you give it a jolt with the jumper. P.S. have been trying to find I5 exactly like yours with no luck here in Florida.
Holler Hyundai in Orlando, Florida is about to get another batch in May. You can put a refundable deposit on one. They had over 100 and sold all of them in a month.
@@DeepSouthMS3 Thank you Heath, the problem is availability of the “Limited” model in the State. We have the SE & SEL, however.
@@tonys9413 I have a Limited Shooting Star with gray 2 tone in order as well. Delivery is May. Can’t wait!!
Hyundai Brandon in Tampa have 3: SE/SEL sitting in their lot
The current draw from a obd-II dongle is too low to run it flat within 10h, which is the frequency the car automatically recharges the 12v
Wow... thanks for this video! I'll have my I5 later this month and I park in an underground garage. I will invest in one of those Type S chargers for sure, just in case!!!
Sounds like a wider Hyundai problem if others are experiencing similar things; but could be the OBD II. It drains the battery on my regular (non-EV) car big time when I’m not using it for a few days, followed by the dashcam. Good luck and hope Hyundai provides an update soon!! PS: I do know someone who’s 12v died while the Ioniq was plugged in.
The next time this happens before you do anything put a digital volt meter on the 12 volt battery to check state of charge, from your description the battery seems to be ok after you energize the circuit so to me the problem may be related to one of the controllers that supply the 12 volts from the battery to the operating 12 volt systems. If it has now been working fine for days and days it’s probably not a 12 volt battery issue.
I have had this problem three times now in only 6 weeks of ownership. The 12v battery drops down to about 6v, at which point almost nothing works, but a quick jolt from a booster reboots the car, and the high voltage battery resumes its usual maintenance charging role on the 12v battery. My concern is that the 12v battery loses charge so quickly in the first place. There seems to be a significant current draw which is causing the high voltage battery to recharge the 12v every hour or so. Every couple of hundred such cycles the recharging isn't triggered for some reason, and this is when the car becomes temporarily unusable. It should be fairly simple for Hyundai to trace the cause of this discharge/recharge cyclical overactivity.
Dave / Kyle / Hyundai - First Dave -, we always owe you early adopters a thank you for being the first ones to go with a new product. This is why. The community truly thanks you. I know my wife and I do. I want one of these SO bad. But as more time goes by in this crazy auto world the Dealerships are gouging more and more. I'm thinking about going up to Canada because it's illegal for dealerships to charge over MSRP, go figure I'll never pay a penny over MSRP, and I will not spend $3k on options I don't want. Kyle - I completely agree with you, it's not the OBD dongle. I have one in my 2002 Lexus and the battery is from 2014. I have one in my 2016 Leaf, and it is fine as well. It's not the issue. I do trickle charge it monthly for general maintenance, but that's it. Hyundai - Please get this figured out, work with Kyle and Dave on it. I know this battery issue is slowing people down and willing to wait until it's figured out. I cover 3 states as a sales rep, and like most people, when I get in my car, especially a new car it can't have phantom draining on a 12v battery. HOW is the world is there not a sensor in all of this tech to cause a warning, or a battery light to indicate there is an issue. The software should have some parameters that alarms with this type of fluctuation, even in the 12V system. Please update this in the software along with wireless Android Auto and Wireless Apple Car Play. Those 2 omitted features is really poor planning for up to a $60k car. It's unacceptable. I hope this get's figured out for you Dave and all of the other early adopters. We look forward to the updated videos. as usual.
"I'm thinking about going up to Canada because it's illegal for dealerships to charge over MSRP."
Search CZcams for CBC television's undercover experiences with Canadian dealers' deceitful practices. The problems are widespread, and auto dealers there are virtually never prosecuted.
@@kenhoward3512 Thanks for the heads up. Disappointing to say the least. So there the same everywhere.
Jim where are you located? If you live in upstate NY, West Herr in Buffalo was not marking up when I purchased mine from them.
@@Bzzap83 thanks for the feedback. Greatly appreciated.
If you are thinking of getting an I5 in Canada, you better have patience because the wait time for this vehicle is about 6-8 months.
did you check the voltage? (what was it) i'd monitor it. I have a radar detector that reads mine.
I've had too many of those lipo jump packs puff up on me and fail. Amazing I haven't had a car catch fire yet from those. Just my experience. thanks for the video
the jump box looks like the same model that I got at Costco -
I am curious if your iPad or other devices are drawing power from the battery while you are not driving.
This seems to be a common issue with every new EV model. I have a Polestar and 12v battery issues were common in our groups for a while. They tend to get patch via software updates. I think it’s just a bug in the software where either 1) it fails to properly check the 12v battery level or 2) fails to re-charge the 12v from the main pack.
My ID4 has not had this problem. Have had it since Aug’21. Hopefully Hyundai addresses the issue and provide a fix soon.
my chevy bolt has never had this problem, ive had it for 1 year. some times it will sit for a week with no use and i have no problems.
Where is that iPad connected? Do you have a direct feed into your battery and is it in the car all the time?
12 volt battery pack? It looked like a standard auto battery to me. Is this a proprietary battery pack for 12 volt as well as for the main power battery?
I’ve had my Ioniq 5 for a week now. I tried looking through your comments and most people were blaming the OBD dongle. But I just stepped into my car and plugged my lightning port and it charged my phone without having to turn the car on. So I’m thinking you charged your iPad overnight and killed your battery. From what I understand turning off the car does not kill power to the 12v adaptor or usb from the front middle console.
As soon as you open the doors it wakes up circuits in the car. Your theory that the Ipad killed the battery is rather far fetched for a simple reason. Most car batteries are around 12V and 50A or so, storing around 600Wh of energy. The Ipad has a 19.3Wh battery. So, even if the Ipad battery was completely empty and the car charged it overnight, it would have used around 3% of the battery capacity to do so. Not nearly enough to drain a 12V battery.
@@redbaron6805 the ipad will consume energy everyminutes! more than 19.3Wh because you has the Wifi on (of the ipad)
@@kumir_ Actually it won't. The iPad Mini battery life is 10 hours of use, around 72 hours of standby time. Since the iPad was on standby and not in use with the screen off, it would have consumed around 0.26Wh every hour it was sitting in the car or around 2 to 3Wh overnight.
That is less than 1% of the 12V battery capacity, so it simply wouldn't have been a factor in this case.
There must of been a bad batch of 12v batteries. I had the same issue with my 2018 Volt.
I upgraded to a lithium 12v an no issues since.
The Ioniq 5 should have a 12v battery saver mode similar to my 2017 Ioniq. You have to activate it.
As far as I know you can't really get big size Li-Ion batteries. They are also less durable weather wise. Ie.: If you have freezing cold temperatures for example, I'd stick with regular batteries.
@@CitarNosis317 The 12v battery isn't a starter battery, so it doesn't need good cold cranking capability. In full BEV they should be using deep cycle lead acid, or LFP. They just use these normal SLA batteries because they already have them and it's cheaper for manufacturing.
@@0hypnotoad0 Absolutely - and when the car _does_ charge the 12v battery - those types of batteries hold that charge for longer. After the 2nd or 3rd time of this issue I'd be buying a deep cycle.
@@CitarNosis317 This isn't true. Tesla already moved to LiFePO4 12v batteries. Much lighter, longer lifespan. They like being at 100% charge too, great for the 12v battery.
In cold weather condensation can make just enough of a barrier so your battery 2 cable connection is insufficient. Also with those battery packs be careful with the clamps if they both touch a grounded surface at the same time you're going to have some problems. On mine I think it advises you to connect the red side or positive side first then the negative. Those things are great!
I don't believe that is an issue on those. Modern smart jump starters look for a feedback voltage from the battery before they send any voltage to the battery. Hence, the Christmas tree lights flashing on the jump starter.
Hence, they don't actually work if your battery voltage gets too low. They also have a reverse polarity sensing and other safety features to prevent any issues. Nothing wrong with being careful, but those jump starters have a lot of safeguards built in to prevent any accidental issues like shorts or reverse polarity from damaging the system.
I've has a sticky brake switch leave the brake lights on and kill the battery. Another time it was the interior light. If it happens again, check these before moving the pedal or doors other than the one you got in through and check that a light wasn't bumped or left on. Hope that helps.
Thanks for this video. I have owned a Kia e-Niro (Niro EV in the USA) here in France since March 2019. I notice it has the same 12v battery as your Ioniq 5 (Rocket)...I get the impression HMG don’t use the highest quality lead/acid batteries but not sure on that. Many e-Niro owners here in France and in the UK have had problems with their 12v batteries but these seem all to have one thing in common, the use of an OBD device which if the car isn’t used for a while will drag the 12v down. I had no such problems until a few weeks back when my 12v died and I could not start the car. Turns out I had not closed the tailgate properly so the interior light was on for about 15 hours. My 12v was down to 5.7 volts!...Charged the car up again and ignoring Einstein’s advice I did the same thing a few days later expecting a different result it would seem!...My stupidity occurred when cleaning out the car interior, leaving the doors open for an hour when I got distracted with something else...and once again the 12v was drained. Convinced that I needed a new ‘higher quality’ battery I checked first with a friend of mine here who has a 2017 Ioniq, one of the 28 kWh early models. His 12v is the same make as mine and is the original battery. He put me onto the backup 12V as you have here so got myself one of those and am sticking with the 12v in the car for now. In theory a 12v lead/acid should last longer in an EV as there is no sudden loads put on it from cranking a starter...but the advice is to keep a beady eye on your 12v. The old Ioniq and the Kia e-Niro have very similar menu settings. You need to make sure that ‘aux battery saver’ is ticked..this means that when the car is powered down and locked the traction battery will charge the 12v if it detects the 12v has gone low.
Lead acid batteries don’t like discharge below 50%. Not recommended to go below 10.8V. If this happens irreversible damage happens. This means that these dead battery episodes will come more frequently and can be triggered more easily.
First of all, all new cars with heavy computer use have voltage or power safety systems for consumption. It works like triage of the 12 volt systems in vehicles, ICE or EV. Anytime the battery voltage drops below a programmed point the vehicle will start shutting down systems to save itself and the programming and memory in the vehicle. I was stranded in my brand new work vehicle out on a job. We run an Ipad all day long for work orders and data entry. We also have strobe lights for safety when we are in highly populated areas to warn people of our vehicles being parked in an area and that we are entering and exiting the vehicle.
My Ipad can draw up to almost 2 amps while charging by itself. I also have a GPS unit running all of the time in my vehicle. That day I was outside of my truck working for 5 hours and the ipad was running.
It was just enough power draw that my vehicle would not allow the start system to operate but other things still worked like my door unlock from my key fob.
All it took was for the vehicle to see 12.7v and everything let the truck try and start. I am a service tech so the first thing I did was got out my multimeter and checked the voltage of my battery . It was 12.4 v DC
before I took a power cord out of my truck and made a makeshift jumper cable out of it.
I did not need the power draw to start my vehicle but only the voltage level for the vehicle to see to allow it to unlock or power up the start system.
I am going to guess that you have a smart charger that can schedule when your vehicle can charge and you can set the time on it. That system and all related apps run off of the 12 volt battery.
Even when your car is off it is still on talking to your charger, your dongle, your ipad and any other bluetooth or wifi device in your vehicle.
Our modern tech and the internet of things ( IOT ) , means that this stuff is always on and always talking between themselves.
You need to eliminate or unplug everything when your vehicle is not being used or install a trickle charger on your 12 volt battery or get a solar charge pad to throw in the dash and plug into a power outlet to send power back into the card while it is parked.
www.amazon.com/TP-solar-Maintainer-Cigarette-Alligator-Motorcycle/dp/B07RXKN9MF/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B07RXKN9MF&psc=1
I had a 2015 hyundai genesis sedan and it would almost lose all electrical power if I turned the wheel fully in either direction. turned out Hyundai had painted the body including where the ground connected, which caused a poor connection. Maybe it's something similar, a lose or poor ground? Do the 12v batteries test as dead? I'm not an owner of an Ioniq 5, just a curious potential buyer :)
After my Sonata hybrid got smashed in and was sitting idle for a while awaiting repair, the 12v system went dead. But in the Sonata, the 12v is actually just a section of the Li-Ion battery, and there's some special button combo thing you can do to jump it directly from the main battery--that worked like a charm. I gather the Ioniq does it differently--that's a lead-acid battery?
Ask Mr EV Andrew Till to send over his wife to talk to your dealer. She’ll get everything set straight LOL
The next time it happens, measure the voltage across the terminals to see how low it’s going below 12VDC.
It's happening on the Kia EV6 sometimes too. My 12v got dangerously low but it started charging back up. We took it to the dealer and they did some diagnostics and suggested plugging it into a level 2 charger instead of l1, the car was intended to be used with a l2 per the manual and their direction. By then, the issue had already gone away and hasn't come back (Knock on wood). In my reading, it seems that most EVs have had this issue at one time or another. Teslas, Mach-e, ID4...
It sounds like a software issue. It's detecting a draw from the usb plugs and it mistakenly shuts all functions down instead of the usb ports. Curious what the voltmeter says on the battery.
What do you have the Ipad setup for?
NVM. LOL
I use it to display detailed OBD II Battery, SOC, charging speed, Temp data etc using a Veepeak Bluetooth scanner you can buy on Amazon. Check out this video we recently posted starting at 40 minutes in for a demo/explanation. Thanks for watching! czcams.com/video/qRdq1y9RQhY/video.html
Did the iPad kill the battery?
@@phildavis9671 when I turn off the car, the power to the iPad is automatically switched off. So I don’t think so…
@@dconner9 that app can show your 12v status as well. Keep an eye on that to see if you notice it going low.
First thing I did when I bought my IONIQ 5 Limited was update the firmware and maps... I am at 1550 Miles on the Odometer. I ordered a Bluetooth battery monitor to give me a warning if voltage got too low. Watching this issue very closely. Thanks for your video. It helps.
TX for the info. I think I read the manual yesterday and there is a way to charge the 12v from the main battery. 2nd day of ownership!
Is it a bad battery? Did you leave something on that ran it down?