Hi Danny, back in the old days we used bitumous felt roofing panels to both mass load & deaden sound. The deadening resulted from the shear forces acting on the panel's many felt layers loosely bonded together by bitumen. My Malcolm Jones (of KEF & Falcon Acoustics) designed Tabor speakers (with Audax drive units) of 40+ years ago used 3/4" flooring grade board, 1/8" hardboard as a veneer, felt panels & fill to achieve a dead cabinet. As a result these 'bookshelf' speakers weigh 50lbs each. The Tabors are still in use every day. Cheers!
Thanks, Danny for clarifying that itâs volume neutral. Iâve been scratching my head on the design plans trying to figure out if I have to change the dimensions on the boxes to include no rez.
Definitely helped my Klipsch Forte IIs. I knew sound deadening (or whatever you call it) made sense, but I wasn't sure I would hear the difference. It was pretty obvious.
I like what no rez does, and I've tweaked the formula a little bit in my audio lab using 1-way closed cell neoprene affixed to a 2mm sheet of rubber. Simply bond the closed cell side to the rubber liner and bond the rubber side directly to the speaker cabinet. Soft, lightweight insulation like dampening is finally a thing of the past
@larrygaines7462 When installing high current systems in mobile vehicles like cars and boats, it's extremely difficult to prevent the framework of which the window frame sits from wiggling and changing shape. It's usually the root cause of breaking glass. The panels of a speaker cabinet are rigid and will not flex like the body panels of a car rv or a boat. Hope this is helpful
"Automotive" foam has one property, which disqualifies it for that purpose- it's closed cell, to prevent moisture ingress, opposite to open cell used for speaker cabinets.
I lined the RP600Ms when I did the crossover upgrade and it was fantastic, I also did a pair of Klipsch Forte 1's where I did the bracing like he suggests at the 45° angles and lined with no res with great great results. Now if somebody could send in a forte one for the crossover upgrade that would be amazing!!!
I've recently been involved in a speaker upgrade. The speakers are TEAD Model 1. The speakers are quite large floor standers. They are made from 18mm baltic birch and were only lightly braised. We lined the cabinets with more 9mm baltic birch ply stuck in with Decidamp to CLD. This was then lined with acoustic foam and Mundorf Angel Hair. The loss of internal volume due to the extra plywood was not enough to significantly change the Q of the speaker. The upgrade took a good ÂŁ6k speaker and turned it into something spectacular.
Congrats Danny and Co. If there's any concerns with the foam perishing over time - talk to the manufacturer about them increasing the level of anti oxidant additive in the PU foam formulation. Then it's a trade off of the extra foam cost (those additives are expensive) and the anticipated improvement in foam life. the Oxidation reaction is a function of heat and oxygen level (maybe also light and UV but that should be a minor or no concern inside a speaker, especially a sealed box.)
Exciting! This video totally makes me want to upgrade another speaker. Iâm patiently waiting for the right one to come out. đđđ» great seeing a great product getting improved
Can't find anything like that in the UK. After so much measuring and testing i use 3mm neoprene self adhesive rubber with 25mm open cell foam glued to it. Kinda inspired by what used to be fitted in the old BBC designs. Works really well though.
Hello folks if you want to soundproofing the walls by using another sheet of drywall with the proper glue for soundproofing, if this is your target what you want to go after. By using special drywall sheets for soundproof. You might even be able to do build bass absorbers/ bass tube traps or even diffusers. Here Danny another business adventure that is related, it's all about the sound of music. Ride Easy
Love it! Shame I just pasted the old no-rez into my NX-Studio build a couple of weeks ago đ€Ł Danny, can no-rez be used as bass traps? Would the damper layer act like mass loaded vinyl?
In an old project, where I converted a Vietnam War ammo box into a Bluetooth speaker, I used Butyl rubber flashing tape. I used to seal the inside of the box airtight and to line the panels. It is remarkably thick, heavy, and somewhat gooey. Do you think that it makes any sense to use such a product? If it were installed strategically underneath the No-Rez, might it increase the mass loading and therefore the damping?
We did try a lead sheets in the original development of No Rez. Imagine the hazards and potential liability when our customers cut them into smaller pieces on their table saws.
I would appreciate thoughts and guidance. Would one need to fully line the speaker enclosure or can one strategically place a section of no-res mid-way on a panel. Example, If have a floor stander that is is approx. 40" tall and 18" deep, would there be any benefit in placing say a 20"x12" section of no-res on mid-way each side panel and back panel or would I need to fully cover the side panel (40"x18") before getting a benefit. I guess what I'm asking is do I need to cover the entire interior or just place smaller sections on each panel and baffle. Thanks!!!
@@dannyrichie9743 Thank you, Danny. I was thinking that would do well for me as the panels are more braced and resonance free as you get closer to joints or where they meet another panel. Keep up the great work!!
Quick question for you, hopefully itâs an easy one. I have a pair that I originally bought of Klipsh heresy IIâs Would lining it with no Rez be a benefit,? And then maybe even a brace or two. Thanks for the videos Danny I watch them all
@@dannyrichie9743 Thanks Danny, greatly appreciate you getting back to me. Iâll have to have my daughter place the order cause Iâm not phone or computer or laptop savvy. Gave all that up when I retired.
Hey Danny ' Serious Questions Most Afforadable Powered or Active Subwoofers have such thin walls epically for the amount of Pressure from low Freq , do you think No-Rez will help Sub cabneit The Rez worked wonders on my đșïž comete EZ so i used in my đșïž 40th as well really knocked out the cabneit noise 'the depth of the soundstage got so much better ' Thanks Danny
The No Rez won't keep the cabinet from flexing under the pressure but it will damp out any ringing from it. In conjunction with a little more bracing it can really help a lot.
We threw in all of the upgrades we offer on the Bully. It is too good not to offer it with the best parts. Plus, it is already fairly pricey, so percentage wise the difference in using all of the best parts was not that much more. If you wanted to though, you could drop some Copper foil by-pass caps into the tweeter circuit.
Great news, Danny! Quick question. If I line the inside of a speaker with new No Rez do I need to also put back the poly that I removed from the cabinet? Maybe fill the remaining space?
Depends on how much was in there to begin with. If it's just a few thin polyfill sheets, you can use it on the back wall. if it's a ton or a bunch of loose fill we recommend putting a 1-2" layer of it back into the speaker, mainly along the back wall. For smaller/separate mid-woofer chambers that are stuffed we recommend putting enough in to be fairly close to stock amounts of fill. So long as it doesn't overstuff the chamber. Over stuffing will sound congested. Under stuffing will sound hollow.
Thank you for your quick responses. Do you guys have any advice for tuning the speaker in this way that does not require making my screwdriver my new best friend? :)
@@jamesmorse6486 It won't look as good, but you can stick No Rez on the outside of the cabinet. However, I would recommend the use of a cordless power tool that will accept your screw driver bit.
@@jamesmorse6486 not that we offer. The only way to change the sound without changing the internals is via DSP, which is best done in the digital domain before it ever gets to the rest of your system, especially the DAC.
Decades ago I puttered around with different cabinet designs. Came across an article from the (now long gone) Audio Amateur mag which suggested using auto under-coating to dampen the cabinet. Turned out to be a bad idea.
@@trevorbartram5473 I've seen an absolute mess inside a speaker cabinet. A disaster of dust and goo. Other materials are superior to foam that don't rot.
@@snomofilms That's odd. It's been on ours for over 8 years (that model) and it is almost impossible to peal it off. I wonder if it didn't like the type of paint used?
I see 2 ,,2x2ft sheets for my sealed 18s. Pool noodle great stuff, 4 bolts per chamber 1/2Ă 16in 3.75 cuft each chamber. Center bolts around mounting holes screw ,glue and torque .cut driver hole, circle glue screw to inside back.Now the no rez.plate amps on each end . Can get precut mdf locally. I built mine mine in a wheelchair. Lol
The foam in the pool noodle on the 8 bolts ... just try it. You will need rollers or or 4 , 3/4 in bolts 4 washers 8 nuts inverted in each corner of cabinet. Use crutch tips , glue on ..very wife friendly also. I listen to few . You are #1, and I'm still learning ,doc said to design casket system. Maybe a year?
Steel wool and liquid nails needs to be experimented with ,so does fiberglass wool and great stuff. All corners are three sided horns to further propregate the different components of the bass note. I get a squirt for each internal corner. Car stuff and home stuff are sorta different both subjects to physics =
We used to stock it and we sold a lot of it. I kept noticing though that it often muddied the mid-range. So it started us down a road of experimenting and worked with a couple of new companies to figure out what worked best. The No Rez has a thicker and heavier damper than Blackhole 5, but not the barrier layer that was causing a little mass loading of the woofer and muddy sound in the midrange.
In a passive radiator speaker such as the Polk Monitor 7B which has only a tweeter and a midwoofer for active drivers, would there be a disadvantage to lining the entire cabinet with No-Rez, with respect to reducing the low bass response from the passive radiator? The acoustic crossover frequency was stated to be 60 Hz by Polk. This is also an entirely unbraced box. Thanks.
I had the same problem with the foam crumbling after some time from a similar product I bought years ago from Parts Express, I think it was called Sonic Barrier.
Sonic Barrier often makes a speaker sound worse. It has no damper to reduce cabinet vibrations. Instead it has a suspended barrier layer that is great for sound proofing a room (what it was designed for), but that suspended barrier will tend to mass load the woofer and muddy up the midrange.
For me to get 8 pieces shipped to Canada from you I am looking at close to $400 USD.....$548 CAD no tax. If dinged here in Ontario with duty $620. The prices to ship from the USA to Canada are insane. FedEx International Economy $264.95USD. From Canada to the USA is fair. Amazon USA must have secured all affordable shipping pipelines in prime ways EH. The 2 hot spots for ordering Chines cheap stuff mostly charge zero shipping and taxes to Canada. Temu and Ali are doing a killing because of it. If you want something niche HI-FI from the USA.......go for a ride and hide it well like we do with your booze.
@@dannyrichie9743 Those prices are from you. No Rez "Two" (Sheets) - Eight Sheets (-7%) Subtotal $260.00 FedEx International EconomyÂź: $267.19 UPS Worldwide Expedited: $131.86.
If you had used rock wool instead of foam Id be sold. Foam is just a horrible product, for human, animal and Earth health. Plus rock wool wont break down over time. Maybe do a head to head, rock wool vs foam.
You could use Bitumen (or mineral filled polymer) automotive vibration damping and add Rockwool behind or around the woofer and back of cabinet, but Rockwool also has its issues with skin irritation and inhalation. You also don't want glass fibres moving around inside the box and getting into the drive unit motor structure or being blown out of a vented box
Every time I hear imperial measurements I die a little inside lol.
Leave it to us Americans..... đ
@@peterwalkerden6778 I am old-school,if, it was not in inches, feet, yards or miles, it could be in Latin for all I can understandâŠ
And I am given life. So the live or dead average is now zero
@@davidbailey6350 I'm in my 70's, and I don't do metric, why should I?
2 3/4 millimetres đ
Hi Danny, back in the old days we used bitumous felt roofing panels to both mass load & deaden sound. The deadening resulted from the shear forces acting on the panel's many felt layers loosely bonded together by bitumen. My Malcolm Jones (of KEF & Falcon Acoustics) designed Tabor speakers (with Audax drive units) of 40+ years ago used 3/4" flooring grade board, 1/8" hardboard as a veneer, felt panels & fill to achieve a dead cabinet. As a result these 'bookshelf' speakers weigh 50lbs each. The Tabors are still in use every day. Cheers!
We used to build two layer boxes with a sand filled layer in between for subwoofers.
@@dannyrichie9743I remember seeing subwoofer plans on your website for that.
Thanks, Danny for clarifying that itâs volume neutral. Iâve been scratching my head on the design plans trying to figure out if I have to change the dimensions on the boxes to include no rez.
Definitely helped my Klipsch Forte IIs. I knew sound deadening (or whatever you call it) made sense, but I wasn't sure I would hear the difference. It was pretty obvious.
I like what no rez does, and I've tweaked the formula a little bit in my audio lab using 1-way closed cell neoprene affixed to a 2mm sheet of rubber. Simply bond the closed cell side to the rubber liner and bond the rubber side directly to the speaker cabinet. Soft, lightweight insulation like dampening is finally a thing of the past
I experimented applying a glucose seal to the inner side of the foam layer, I heard upgrade treatment in a podcast.
I used vinyl tiles that you buy at Home Depot for less than a buck or so a piece glue the foam onto them. Theyâre heavier than they look.
Done similar to auto trunks and rtv neoprene,aluminum foil,rtv, layered, then the windows blew out
@larrygaines7462 When installing high current systems in mobile vehicles like cars and boats, it's extremely difficult to prevent the framework of which the window frame sits from wiggling and changing shape. It's usually the root cause of breaking glass. The panels of a speaker cabinet are rigid and will not flex like the body panels of a car rv or a boat. Hope this is helpful
@@CashGravel You could buy a small sheet of mass loaded vinyl as something perhaps actually fit for the purpose. Plus even heavier than just vinyl.
Foam quickly degrades in the tropical heat and humidity. So i end up using automotive sound insulation in my speakers.
Parts Express has a version with denim
"Automotive" foam has one property, which disqualifies it for that purpose- it's closed cell, to prevent moisture ingress, opposite to open cell used for speaker cabinets.
I lined the RP600Ms when I did the crossover upgrade and it was fantastic, I also did a pair of Klipsch Forte 1's where I did the bracing like he suggests at the 45° angles and lined with no res with great great results. Now if somebody could send in a forte one for the crossover upgrade that would be amazing!!!
It would be funny to buy one of Dannyâs GR shirts and send it to him.
Hey, I already have those.
I've recently been involved in a speaker upgrade. The speakers are TEAD Model 1. The speakers are quite large floor standers. They are made from 18mm baltic birch and were only lightly braised.
We lined the cabinets with more 9mm baltic birch ply stuck in with Decidamp to CLD. This was then lined with acoustic foam and Mundorf Angel Hair.
The loss of internal volume due to the extra plywood was not enough to significantly change the Q of the speaker.
The upgrade took a good ÂŁ6k speaker and turned it into something spectacular.
"were only lightly braised." I would braise them longer is a slow oven for best results, otherwise they tend to be tough and hard to chew.
Congrats Danny and Co. If there's any concerns with the foam perishing over time - talk to the manufacturer about them increasing the level of anti oxidant additive in the PU foam formulation. Then it's a trade off of the extra foam cost (those additives are expensive) and the anticipated improvement in foam life. the Oxidation reaction is a function of heat and oxygen level (maybe also light and UV but that should be a minor or no concern inside a speaker, especially a sealed box.)
I think we've solved it. Time will tell.
@@dannyrichie9743 literally!! Accelerated ageing tests are always a bit problematic
Exciting! This video totally makes me want to upgrade another speaker. Iâm patiently waiting for the right one to come out. đđđ» great seeing a great product getting improved
Can't find anything like that in the UK. After so much measuring and testing i use 3mm neoprene self adhesive rubber with 25mm open cell foam glued to it. Kinda inspired by what used to be fitted in the old BBC designs. Works really well though.
How did I not see it before?? Danny is the Ted Lasso of HiFi!!!!
Dang, and I just completed my 357 ft.Âł cabinets
I just did the inside of my car, full cabin absorption, feels great.
@@mediascapes2011lucky!
Can you use No-Rez for acoustic treatment?
You can, but a material with a heavy damper is not needed for room treatment. You just need the foam layer, and there are better places to foam only.
great stuff. Nothing like having a buzz box for a speaker. once you hear the buzz reduced or eliminated tough to go back to a talking cabinet.
Some cabints are tuned to fill gaps in the drivers.
Hi. Can it be use to make sound absorbing panels to hang to walls ? Thank you !
Hello folks if you want to soundproofing the walls by using another sheet of drywall with the proper glue for soundproofing, if this is your target what you want to go after. By using special drywall sheets for soundproof.
You might even be able to do build bass absorbers/ bass tube traps or even diffusers.
Here Danny another business adventure that is related, it's all about the sound of music.
Ride Easy
"Dorfverein"....đ I love itâ€
Would like to see the difference from both the new and old no rez. Perhaps a small book shelf ?
Great news...
This is great news.
Hi Danny, I have not yet added No-Rez to my NX-Otica's. How many sheets of the new version would I need? I really like the black too!
8 sheets.
Can it be used for accoustic treatment for a room?
It could, but you don't need a heavy damper for that. You just need the foam layer.
Cool!
I haven't found an equivalent in Europe yet with a combination of anti resonance and foam.
Use Alubutyl with a layer of foam. not the same but it works !
closest you can get is buy Silent Coat Vibrodamping 4mm and Silent Coat Sound Absorber 35. glue those together, i get those to me in Scandinavia.
Love it! Shame I just pasted the old no-rez into my NX-Studio build a couple of weeks ago đ€Ł Danny, can no-rez be used as bass traps? Would the damper layer act like mass loaded vinyl?
The foam layer is a little thin for bass traps.
Would this help tighten the bass from an 8" car audio subwoofer in a ported box?
Yes it will.
In an old project, where I converted a Vietnam War ammo box into a Bluetooth speaker, I used Butyl rubber flashing tape. I used to seal the inside of the box airtight and to line the panels. It is remarkably thick, heavy, and somewhat gooey. Do you think that it makes any sense to use such a product? If it were installed strategically underneath the No-Rez, might it increase the mass loading and therefore the damping?
If using No Rez, I would just use No Rez. The way to get added benefits would be to add bracing with it.
Has there been any measurements showing what notes do to resonances?
Measurements were shown in this video.
Couldnât that stuff be vacuum sealed for shipping like foam mattresses?
have you tried leadsheets, sheets 2 mm thick with a adhesive layer at one side
We did try a lead sheets in the original development of No Rez. Imagine the hazards and potential liability when our customers cut them into smaller pieces on their table saws.
I would appreciate thoughts and guidance. Would one need to fully line the speaker enclosure or can one strategically place a section of no-res mid-way on a panel. Example, If have a floor stander that is is approx. 40" tall and 18" deep, would there be any benefit in placing say a 20"x12" section of no-res on mid-way each side panel and back panel or would I need to fully cover the side panel (40"x18") before getting a benefit. I guess what I'm asking is do I need to cover the entire interior or just place smaller sections on each panel and baffle. Thanks!!!
At least cover the center of each panel.
@@dannyrichie9743 Thank you, Danny. I was thinking that would do well for me as the panels are more braced and resonance free as you get closer to joints or where they meet another panel.
Keep up the great work!!
Do any commercial speakers use No-Rez?
We sell to some small companies that use it in their products.
Quick question for you, hopefully itâs an easy one. I have a pair that I originally bought of Klipsh heresy IIâs Would lining it with no Rez be a benefit,? And then maybe even a brace or two. Thanks for the videos Danny I watch them all
Yes indeed. Add some small braces and line them with No Rez. It will really help.
@@dannyrichie9743 Thanks Danny, greatly appreciate you getting back to me. Iâll have to have my daughter place the order cause Iâm not phone or computer or laptop savvy. Gave all that up when I retired.
Danny, have you shipped to Australia? And if so is there a bulk amount that is more cost effective?
We have shipped a lot of product to Australia. The ten sheet boxes are the most cost effective way to send it.
Hey Danny ' Serious Questions Most Afforadable Powered or Active Subwoofers have such thin walls epically for the amount of Pressure from low Freq , do you think No-Rez will help Sub cabneit The Rez worked wonders on my đșïž comete EZ so i used in my đșïž 40th as well really knocked out the cabneit noise 'the depth of the soundstage got so much better ' Thanks Danny
The No Rez won't keep the cabinet from flexing under the pressure but it will damp out any ringing from it. In conjunction with a little more bracing it can really help a lot.
What about the polyfill that comes in speakers? After installing the no rez, can you get rid of the polyfill? Does it make a difference?
You can then add back some or all of the poly fill to fine tune it.
@@dannyrichie9743 Does polyfill affect any specific frequencies?
I am curious to see what upgrades Danny suggests to improve the Bully speaker.
We threw in all of the upgrades we offer on the Bully. It is too good not to offer it with the best parts. Plus, it is already fairly pricey, so percentage wise the difference in using all of the best parts was not that much more.
If you wanted to though, you could drop some Copper foil by-pass caps into the tweeter circuit.
Question Danny: that no rez has glue in the back? Thanks
It has a pressure sensitive adhesive on the back side (peal and stick).
Is there application for No-rez in room treatment?
Room treatment does not require a heavy damper. Just a foam layer is fine.
You should call it NeoRez
Great news, Danny!
Quick question. If I line the inside of a speaker with new No Rez do I need to also put back the poly that I removed from the cabinet? Maybe fill the remaining space?
You can then add back some or all of the poly fill to fine tune it.
Depends on how much was in there to begin with. If it's just a few thin polyfill sheets, you can use it on the back wall. if it's a ton or a bunch of loose fill we recommend putting a 1-2" layer of it back into the speaker, mainly along the back wall. For smaller/separate mid-woofer chambers that are stuffed we recommend putting enough in to be fairly close to stock amounts of fill. So long as it doesn't overstuff the chamber. Over stuffing will sound congested. Under stuffing will sound hollow.
Thank you for your quick responses. Do you guys have any advice for tuning the speaker in this way that does not require making my screwdriver my new best friend? :)
@@jamesmorse6486 It won't look as good, but you can stick No Rez on the outside of the cabinet.
However, I would recommend the use of a cordless power tool that will accept your screw driver bit.
@@jamesmorse6486 not that we offer. The only way to change the sound without changing the internals is via DSP, which is best done in the digital domain before it ever gets to the rest of your system, especially the DAC.
If I use No-rez,do I have to put the poly-fill back in?
You can then add back some or all of the poly fill to fine tune it.
Decades ago I puttered around with different cabinet designs. Came across an article from the (now long gone) Audio Amateur mag which suggested using auto under-coating to dampen the cabinet. Turned out to be a bad idea.
There is not much damping to be found there.
News flash. Foam rots.
Yes, old formulations when subjected to sunlight but not INSIDE a speaker box!
@@trevorbartram5473 I've seen an absolute mess inside a speaker cabinet. A disaster of dust and goo. Other materials are superior to foam that don't rot.
I assume that's old speakers. What's the cause? Oxygen or moisture? I'm no chemical engineer. I assume Danny has this covered.
@@trevorbartram5473 Foam has a finite lifespan. Oxidation affects everything.
My problem with the no rez I got with my NX Oticas is that is doesnât want to stick very well- edges are coming up. Need a way to address this.
That means the surface is not clean. If the surface is dusty then it won't allow it to stick well.
@@dannyrichie9743 I installed the no rez on a surgically clean, IPA wiped, painted cabinet. They started peeling up within a few months.
@@snomofilms That's odd. It's been on ours for over 8 years (that model) and it is almost impossible to peal it off. I wonder if it didn't like the type of paint used?
Pressure change either heats up cabinet stuffing or no res or comes back through speaker an /or it comes out as off sound ,.
I see 2 ,,2x2ft sheets for my sealed 18s. Pool noodle great stuff, 4 bolts per chamber 1/2Ă 16in 3.75 cuft each chamber. Center bolts around mounting holes screw ,glue and torque .cut driver hole, circle glue screw to inside back.Now the no rez.plate amps on each end . Can get precut mdf locally. I built mine mine in a wheelchair. Lol
The foam in the pool noodle on the 8 bolts ... just try it. You will need rollers or or 4 , 3/4 in bolts 4 washers 8 nuts inverted in each corner of cabinet. Use crutch tips , glue on ..very wife friendly also. I listen to few . You are #1, and I'm still learning ,doc said to design casket system.
Maybe a year?
Steel wool and liquid nails needs to be experimented with ,so does fiberglass wool and great stuff. All corners are three sided horns to further propregate the different components of the bass note. I get a squirt for each internal corner. Car stuff and home stuff are sorta different both subjects to physics =
Is NoRez available in Europe? Do you have a dealer?
We can ship it to Europe. I do not have a dealer there though.
Nice update on the Hi-Po No Rez! Win win, re dimensionality.
Remember the 80's borosilicate damping paste from Zalytron?
size M or L?
Large.
Us in England haven't been very impressed with our team so far.
At least you're still in.
What ever happened to the Blackhole Damping Material
We used to stock it and we sold a lot of it. I kept noticing though that it often muddied the mid-range. So it started us down a road of experimenting and worked with a couple of new companies to figure out what worked best. The No Rez has a thicker and heavier damper than Blackhole 5, but not the barrier layer that was causing a little mass loading of the woofer and muddy sound in the midrange.
In a passive radiator speaker such as the Polk Monitor 7B which has only a tweeter and a midwoofer for active drivers, would there be a disadvantage to lining the entire cabinet with No-Rez, with respect to reducing the low bass response from the passive radiator? The acoustic crossover frequency was stated to be 60 Hz by Polk. This is also an entirely unbraced box. Thanks.
Lining it with No Rez is a great idea regardless of whether it is ported or has a PR. It will not effect the tuning.
I had the same problem with the foam crumbling after some time from a similar product I bought years ago from Parts Express, I think it was called Sonic Barrier.
Sonic Barrier often makes a speaker sound worse. It has no damper to reduce cabinet vibrations. Instead it has a suspended barrier layer that is great for sound proofing a room (what it was designed for), but that suspended barrier will tend to mass load the woofer and muddy up the midrange.
@@dannyrichie9743 Good to know.
19 5/8", so, for the rest of the world, that's near enough 0.5m
You are correct.
No-Rez is super easy to cut on a table saw. Or with a box cutter is fine.
For me to get 8 pieces shipped to Canada from you I am looking at close to $400 USD.....$548 CAD no tax. If dinged here in Ontario with duty $620. The prices to ship from the USA to Canada are insane. FedEx International Economy $264.95USD. From Canada to the USA is fair. Amazon USA must have secured all affordable shipping pipelines in prime ways EH. The 2 hot spots for ordering Chines cheap stuff mostly charge zero shipping and taxes to Canada. Temu and Ali are doing a killing because of it. If you want something niche HI-FI from the USA.......go for a ride and hide it well like we do with your booze.
I can get much better shipping rates than that.
@@dannyrichie9743 Those prices are from you. No Rez "Two" (Sheets) - Eight Sheets (-7%) Subtotal $260.00 FedEx International EconomyÂź: $267.19 UPS Worldwide Expedited: $131.86.
First comment đȘ TY as always!
I live in Canada. Do you know of a distributor up here? Thx
We ship to Canada all the time.
If you had used rock wool instead of foam Id be sold. Foam is just a horrible product, for human, animal and Earth health. Plus rock wool wont break down over time.
Maybe do a head to head, rock wool vs foam.
You could use Bitumen (or mineral filled polymer) automotive vibration damping and add Rockwool behind or around the woofer and back of cabinet, but Rockwool also has its issues with skin irritation and inhalation. You also don't want glass fibres moving around inside the box and getting into the drive unit motor structure or being blown out of a vented box
@@stephenyoud6125 Hair spray will fix that.:) and I think it says on the box, Do NOT use as a mask. lol