Still learning something new everyday, thanks to turners like you willing to share their knowledge. I have not done much if any end grain turning. I purchased my lathe and a boat load of tools from my father-in-law. So many of the tools I have not even tried yet. I have one of the tools you just purchased. Now I know what it is for. Thanks again for sharing
Nice video. On my two-piece, end-grain rough turnings, I drill the pith out entirely. I find that I get less splitting that way. When I finish the piece, I glue a plug in the bottom. I hope you do a follow-up video when you finish these.
Hi sir, great tutorial video. if i may, on the 2nd part\ piece, where you drilled with an extension and felt you have to hold it 'till it gets in and steady, what i do is using the rest tool, letting the drill extension sits on and stabled. i hope it will help.
In your experience do you find sealing with PVA better than products such as anchor seal ? I’m finding a lot of my blanks crack with anchor seal, especially Oak. I would also think the PVA thinned with water would be more economical than wax sealers. As usual enjoyed the video very much.
Thanks, I used to use anchor seal exclusively in the past and it works fine, but I just did not like getting that waxy substance on the floor or on bits of the bark or on what might be a glue joint later. I have seen that more people are moving to the PVA and I prefer it now. It works just as good and perhaps even better. From Craftsupplies the PVA based endseal is around the same price as Anchor seal. If you just buy Elmer's white or yellow glue by the gallon and water it down a bit it is then cheaper. If you are getting a lot of cracking that might be more a matter of other factors like drying it too quickly, leaving it too think, not a consistent wall thickness throughout, etc. If you don't have a kiln try just using a carboard box or paper leaf bag to help slow down the drying time and I recommend keeping it out of the sun or other weather - inside a garage or shed with fairly stable temp is good. I found that typically inside a home or shop is too hot and it will dry too quickly and crack. Good luck
Still learning something new everyday, thanks to turners like you willing to share their knowledge. I have not done much if any end grain turning. I purchased my lathe and a boat load of tools from my father-in-law. So many of the tools I have not even tried yet. I have one of the tools you just purchased. Now I know what it is for. Thanks again for sharing
Thanks
Nice work Frank!
Thanks
Nice video. On my two-piece, end-grain rough turnings, I drill the pith out entirely. I find that I get less splitting that way. When I finish the piece, I glue a plug in the bottom. I hope you do a follow-up video when you finish these.
Thanks. Yes I usually drill out the top portion but leave the bottom solid and hope for no cracks, but that is a good idea to do both.
Nice work good description
Hi sir, great tutorial video. if i may, on the 2nd part\ piece, where you drilled with an extension and felt you have to hold it 'till it gets in and steady, what i do is using the rest tool, letting the drill extension sits on and stabled. i hope it will help.
Thanks, good idea to stabilize the drill shank
In your experience do you find sealing with PVA better than products such as anchor seal ? I’m finding a lot of my blanks crack with anchor seal, especially Oak. I would also think the PVA thinned with water would be more economical than wax sealers. As usual enjoyed the video very much.
Thanks, I used to use anchor seal exclusively in the past and it works fine, but I just did not like getting that waxy substance on the floor or on bits of the bark or on what might be a glue joint later. I have seen that more people are moving to the PVA and I prefer it now. It works just as good and perhaps even better. From Craftsupplies the PVA based endseal is around the same price as Anchor seal. If you just buy Elmer's white or yellow glue by the gallon and water it down a bit it is then cheaper. If you are getting a lot of cracking that might be more a matter of other factors like drying it too quickly, leaving it too think, not a consistent wall thickness throughout, etc. If you don't have a kiln try just using a carboard box or paper leaf bag to help slow down the drying time and I recommend keeping it out of the sun or other weather - inside a garage or shed with fairly stable temp is good. I found that typically inside a home or shop is too hot and it will dry too quickly and crack. Good luck