TDI Timing Belt Replacement ALH Engine 2000 2001 2002 2003 Golf Jetta VW Volkswagen MK4 How To
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2014
- This is my third timing belt job on an ALH engine. I hope I did not miss anything in the video, but in case I did here is a good "how to" on TDI Club.
pics2.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timing...
Check everything twice and have fun.
Here is a video I made on how to advance the Injection timing in VCDS for better mileage (after you set the timing mechanically).
• 1999.5-2003 Volkswagen...
Torque specs
5mm allen bolts Valve Cover 7 ft-lb (don't overtighten!)
13mm (3) Vacuum Pump bolts to head 15 ft-lb
Camshaft sprocket bolt 33 ft lbs, (40 ft lbs might be better)
Upper timing belt roller bolt (small) 15 ft lbs
Lower timing belt roller nut (small) 16 ft lbs
Lower timing belt roller bolt (large): 30 ft lbs +1/4 turn
Timing belt tensioner nut: 15 ft lbs
3 injection pump sprocket bolts 18 ft lbs (Gray bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced, Gold Bolts are not stretch bolts and can be reused)
4 harmonic balancer bolts: 18 ft lbs
3 water pump bolts: 11 ft lbs
16mm engine mount (Attaches to Block) 33 ft lbs
18mm frame mount to motor mount bolts 74 ft lbs
16mm motor mount (Attaches to frame) 30 ft lbs + 1/4 turn
Motor mount (Frame side) alignment bracket bolts 18 ft lbs
As a mechanic for 45 years I am very impressed with this young man. he was very clear and concise and knew exactly what he was doing. Thanks a bunch!!
Ron Damron
As you're a mechanic can you fix my car? I'm in England essex. Let me know as I'll put the kettle on
If i didnt know any better, id say the young man does this for a living.
After 9 years this video is still a tremendous help. Awesome job hope you're doing well!
Only guy I've seen go on to explain injection timing.
Great job and great kid.
Thanks a mil
Levi, Great Video! Nicely Done! This is my 1st TDI timing belt and I appreciate you taking the time to make this excellent tutorial video. Thank You!
Randy Graves You're welcome
Great instructional video, very well organized and clear. Best I've seen on CZcams!
Big Thanks my friend it took me a full weekend to do this following you step by step but my Beetle TDI runs great now..........
Levi great video! I have reviewed so many videos and they drag on and do not make things clear and concise. Your video is just that "Clear and Concise". Thank you!
Thank you so much for taking the time to share that!
Jesus is Lord
Levi Jefferies
Thank you for posting this and sharing your expertise. You have helped many here, including me and my family.
You're welcome.
Jesus is my Lord
Levi Jefferies
Pro Tip: When installing the belt leave the two small rollers off. After belt is routed, then install rollers, then tension the belt.
If you’re just doing water pump and belt do you have to remove cam sprocket and injection pump sprocket if you’re already in time? Is that part of setting the tension? Or can you just lock the cam and injection pump and just back off the tension and replace?
@@ibuildbikesOML You cannot get the water pump out without the belt off. To remove the belt you are going to need to remove the cam sprocket and probably the motor mount bracket. The injection pump sprocket can stay on. I never take it off.
Normally the water pump is done with the timing belt service. If you are only replacing the pump because it went bad, then you are going to want to at least replace the tensioner too assuming the other components are still have life in them.
The proper tension process is to have the cam sprocket loose, but in place, the injection pump sprocket loose, and then tighten the tension on the belt with the tensioner. After you lock down the tensioner, you would then torque the cam sprocket and IP bolts (3 of them).
Your the man! Thanks for being detailed and mentioning what to be prepared
Hi Levi! Just wanted to give you HUGE thanks for one of the best videos on this subject that is out there!
I just used it to do a full belt, water pump, rollers and tensioner change on an ASV engine. I've been working on cars for more years than you've probably been breathing LOL, and I was going to use my old method of marking around the belt and sprockets, transferring the marks over to the new belt and *hope* that whoever did the belt before me had the timing correct. But, I've recently bought VCDS Full Version, and wanted to do it "properly". OMG! The timing was miles off! The second box in from the left, the one beside "Fuel Temperature" said 134 when I started the engine, and don't ask me how it managed to start! Had to retard it a lot, but thanks to your video I knew exactly what to do!
If you ever come to Scotland I owe you at least a dozen beers and a bottle of the finest single malt whisky!
Thanks again Levi, you made a stressful job look very easy!
Great video and explanation! You made it look really easy!
Fantastic video, this helped me from digging through the manual again. I skip the timing step by not loosening the timing pump bolts and marking the old timing belt in relation to the sprockets with different color paint pens, remove the old belt and mark the new one by counting the spaces in between the marks on the old one. Install the new belt by matching the colors with the corresponding colors on the sprockets. I still check timing when complete but it should be the same.
Hi JJ! That's the same way I've been timing belts for donkey's years! But with this one I was a bit nervous, strangely enough, and although I've got VCDS to check the timing, in the past I'd have had to trust whoever did the belt before that they had set up the timing correctly. I'll tell you one thing though, I'm now more convinced than ever that the dealers don't do it this way, the book time for this job is 3.3hrs! It nearly took us that long just to get those stupid hex cap bolts out of the crank pulley as the previous "technician" had rounded every one of them!
Anyway, just thought I'd let you know that someone else uses your method for most other engines, it's a quick and easy way of doing the job.
thanks lev! I looked on ebay and can get vag com for 30 bucks. I've checked 4 different videos and yours was the only one that even mentioned tuning the injector pump to precise because it makes sense. I'll defintely share this.
+Billy Flansburg A real Vag Com costs between $250 and $350. The ones on Ebay are Chinese knockoffs. They may work but some of them have very reduced functions.
Here are the genuine ones.
store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS.html
I actually watched and learned from this video. Unfortunately I didn’t finish it and tore apart again to make sure I had right. Not knowing it had to be programmed by a computer. Hopefully it will work out. Thanks for the great instructional video.
This was an excellent video, very simple and clear explanation of the process. The vehicle I repaired was an '02 New Beetle, same process, just a LOT less room! I'm especially thankful your car didn't start, so you explained how to get it going - I had the same problem. Thank you, thank you, thanks you!
Thank you for the encouragement.
Just so you know, I found out afterward that I had used a wrong mark on the flywheel and that is why it would not start. It is very easy to use the wrong mark on an automatic transmission. Adjusting the injection pump slightly advanced allows it to start, but the camshaft will still be off. It will run fine with the cam off, but I ended up adjusting the cam perfectly later, on our Jetta TDI.
Jesus Is Lord
Levi Jefferies
I went from the hump/bump that you speak of below, putting that at the bottom of the wider opening. Reading the other comments, do you mean that should be in the circle, and there's another mark in the wider opening? The hump was what showed up when the car was TDC before I took everything apart. I don't trust the guy that did the job before (for the previous owner), he stripped the oil pump bolts and didn't tell anyone. Seems to be running a lot better now, through...
You are correct, the bump is not the correct mark. Take a look at page 46 of this how to, it shows the mark perfectly.
pics2.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf
Jesus Is Lord
Levi Jefferies
Thanks, that helped. I'll have to adjust it. I think this is another symptom of a bad job done by the previous owner's mechanic, which is why I had to do this in the first place. Car runs well anyway! Thanks again.
You're welcome
Thanks for a well done and complete explanation.
thank you for this buddy great vid. I myself am a fan of a head job in traffic!!
Awesome video. I will be using this as a help/walk through with my timing belt/ water pump job. Thank You.
You're welcome. Glad to be of service.
Do you have an auto or a manual?
manual
Great, the auto's are a little tricky to get to TDC but the manual's are easier.
Thanks for your replay bro . i just fixed now .Now the car started. the Glow plug works fine.
What was the problem?
hey man great vid. you did a great job
Thank you for taking your time to make this video, very helpful. I do this procedure quite often, here are some take always from what I have watched:
No need to remove the cowl in the beetle to do a timing belt job.
Injection pump bolts, if the are golden they are reusable, no longer stretch bolts.
German cars do not use 5/16th or standard tools. ALWAYS use metric tools.
Never place tools by the windshield I have seen ratchets cracking windshields.
This procedure is the same for all ALH TDi engines from 1998 to 2004.5
Harmonic balance bolts, if you can, heat them up before doing anything to it, then fit the Allen socket in them hit lightly the socket with a hammer few times. Hit the socket not the bolt.
Avoid using a punch and hammer to remove the camshaft sprocket, buy a set of low profile gear pullers on ebay for $40 or so.
NEVER LOCK the injection pump after removing the belt.You MUST lock the injection pump sprocket with a pin BEFORE removing the belt. After losing the camshaft sprocket make sure you double check the engine still at tdi check the cam lobes, the transmission/flywheel mark and the mark down below in the crankshaft sprocket are all aligned, then remove the belt. Loose the nut on the tensioner, spin it counter clockwise to release the tension on the timing belt.
Then, remove the belt.
Best video out here, thanks dude! Mine had 80k on it, better safe than sorry
You're the man Levi!
This video is amazing. Thanks man.
Best one on CZcams.
Thank you so much ! Perfect description :)
You're welcome! Glad to be of assistance.
Jesus is Lord
Levi
Good job Levi!
hopefully you can reply to me in good time. i started the process of replacing my timing belt along the way while i was putting everything at TDC the fly wheel the cam shaft and i come across the fuel injector pump sprocket and i cant line the hole up with the pin. when im at tdc with the fly wheel my hole on the sprocket for the injector pump is pointing on the bottom, i noticed on a few videos the locking hole should be on the top! do you know what i should do? i can not lock my fuel sprocket because the hole on the sprocket is on bottom and the hole for the pin to slide into locking position seems to be on the top. I didnt think i could just move that sprocket freely into position, i think that would just make it really out of time.
Great Video.......thanks for posting it : )
You're welcome!
God Bless
Levi Jefferies
Love the vid !!!!
Perfectly doable. I've done old rabbits before but they were non-computerized. I just don't have a VAG-COM.
Thanks for the video Levi, I plan on doing my timing belt in a week or two ,The only thing that concerned me was the fact that you did not show actually putting the tension on the timing belt with the timing tensioner tool. is there a certain amount of attention that should be applied? Thanks John
I followed your video and did the job. Went smooth and easy, thanks so much!
BTW Great job on the video Levi.
One hell of a video. Great Job. Very clean and simple. You didn't add any unnecessary stuff. Thanks for making it. In the middle of doing mine right now and just found this video. Does the cam lock have to slide nicely? Mine doesn't. I'll look into it.
My belt ended up jumping time due to being very loose. Either the tensioner gave up some or it stretched, or just jumped due to wear. I ended up getting lucky (assuming no valve damage). Again. Thanks for the video. The vagcom details helped me out a ton. Do you have any injector nozzles or anything else done to your car?
The cam lock does not have to slide super easily, but it should not be too hard to push in with your hand.
That car did not have any modifications, except maybe a blow-off valve (I don't remember for sure).
Levi
I’m getting ready to do this for a Diesel 2001 VW 1.9tdi ALH Engine, I hope I can get this thing goin with todays fuel prices
Great video thanks for taking the time! Question for you... I ordered a timing belt kit, and the belt that came in it was a Gates T321 for my 2001 VW Golf TDI. Is there any reason the T321 timing belt would not fit and align correctly? Or will I need a T301 Timing belt?
I did a little research, and it looks like they are both specified for your engine. IDparts.com (which is where I get a lot of my parts) has the T321 listed as the correct belt for 100,000 change interval. My best guess is that the T301 was the earlier belt that was only rated for 40,000 miles in an automatic transmission car, and 60,000 miles in a manual transmission car. Although I do not know for sure. The belts have identical dimensions and have the same number of teeth.
so when u turned the camshaft with the first 2 lobes up this put it on tdc so did u have to turn the crankshaft to it's mark or not nice job u did i wish u could help with my vw beetle 2002 2.0
Hey Levi, props on a great video, I'm getting ready to tackle this job on my golf so i have a couple questions for ya. The cam counter hold tool you made, would you mind sharing the measurements on it? And after the job is all done to properly check the fuel pump timing, I'll defiantly need a VCDS? or is there anything else i could use to check that data?
Thanks a bunch!
+Vash1224 Sorry for taking a while to respond ( I just saw your post).
The tool that I made is just a 1/2" pipe with two 5/16" bolts spaced 3" apart on the end.
You definitely will need VCDS for the fuel timing. I show how to do it at the end of my timing belt video.
Yo! Just a thought... I'm about to do this and have already watched your video, but now, as a don't have a manual, I need the torque values. Would you add them to the description for quick reference? Thanks for the upload, mate!
Just added them.
Levi
Amigo sou do Brasil e tenho um motor destes sem o modulo da bomba!!! Será que vc consegue me enviar a numeraçaõ que tem escrita no modulo para ver se eu consigo compra um por aqui?Obrigado
Hey, just did my timing belt and everything in the video was bang one but ONE THING AS A WORD OF CAUTION. The lower stud that holds on a small roller it very difficult to thread into the engine with only pliers as recommended due to the thread lock applied by the factory. You can't see how far it is in because of the back cover, so when I tried to torque the roller onto the stud, it RIPPED OUT OF MY BLOCK STRIPPING 3 THREADS WORTH OF ALUMINIUM OUT. I luckily had 3 threads of block left, and it seems to be holding now. Thread in the lower stud with back to back bolts and make sure its in the head enough before you start to torque... Thanks for the video
Tighten two nuts together on the stud to install it. That works much better than pliers.
Great video very helpful but I was wondering if it’s absolutely necessary to use the vcds
It isn't absolutely necessary if you get all your marks perfectly lined up and it is running good afterwards. But I would highly recommend it, almost always there will be some small adjustment that needs to be made afterwards.
Excellent video. Very efficient. May I ask why replace the water pump too? Is that just standard procedure when going through all that effort? My TDI has 200klms and I just got it and do not know if it was ever replaced. So I’m thinking about doing it asap (but never considered changing the water pump too)
It is just standard procedure to replace the water pump as well. Chances are, that the water pump won't make it through the second timing belt interval, so replacing it once everything is apart is very cheap insurance. If the water pump fails before the timing belt needs to be done, then you have to remove the timing belt anyways to access the water pump.
Hope that helps,
Jesus is Lord,
Levi
I haven't purchased any cable yet. I removed the cooler and there was what looked like antifreeze in the pipe and also in the intake manifold. I also noticed there was antifreeze on the input side of the turbo when I removed the pipe.
+Michael Brown There is a good chance the EGR cooler is bad. But you would need to confirm that before replacing it.
Hi I did my Timing belt a month ago. And aside from locking in place, I marked the pulleys and belt. It fired right up when I put everything together. I don’t have vag-com but noticed my car is slower with the tuning it has. Any input of what it might be? You thing the timing is wrong or just the fuel injection that needs to be adjusted. Thank you in advance
Hey I enjoyed your guide, but I think I found one thing that needs to be corrected. You said that the 3 bolts from the mount to engine need to be 44ft lbs plus 1/4 turn. These 3 - 16mm bolts are supposed to be 33 ft lbs plus 1/4 turn according to the information I found. The reason I'm saying is because one of my stretch bolts snapped before it could reach 44 ft lbs. Luckily it was connected well enough I was able to back it out and I think it only damaged the stretch bolt.
That is an outstanding post. I didn’t know you had to use the square hole on to get the engine to TDC. I am going to be doing a head gasket on a Beetle TDI; I have anti freeze coming out of the tail pipe. Where did you get the software for Vag Com? I have a Vag Com scanner and need software to download Vag Com to my laptop. Again outstanding post
+Michael Brown I got the Vag Com software on www.ross-tech.com/.
If you have antifreeze coming out of the tail pipe, I would check the EGR cooler first.
Great video and attempting to do this replacement myself since I do not have the money to pay a mechanic to do it and I think my water pump just blew out dumping all the coolant out on the ground... I have nothing to lose at this point except money for the parts, but I realized the replacement kit I ordered did not come with any of the bolts. I am trying to buy them separate now but I was wondering which bolts are absolutely necessary to replace. I know the stretch bolts are but what about the water pump bolts? Are there other stretch bolts beside the engine mount bolts? Trying to source these bolts is difficult!
Make sure that you buy a good quality timing belt kit, because you really do not want it to break. If it does, the pistons hit the valves, and to fix it, at a minimum the head would have to come off and new valves installed.
The water pump bolts do not have to be changed, although they do come with most bolt kits.
This is a bolt kit of every bolt that you need, although it is a little bit expensive.
www.idparts.com/timing-belt-bolt-kit-a4-alh-p-565.html
Jesus is my Lord
Levi Jefferies
Thank you for the quick response! I was just looking at this kit actually and I'll probably go with that, especially since you recommend it. The parts I purchased are OEM and seem to be good quality, I just forgot to purchase a kit that included the bolts, silly me. I'll go ahead and order the parts are begin the tear down process! I may be back with more questions as I go along, thank you so much, God bless!
Thank you, sounds good.
Levi Jefferies is that software you used necessary for this? if it is could I finish the replacement and then take to a shop to do the tuning?
Yes, you can do the timing belt job and then take it to a good shop who has the proper software to do the tuning.
+Levi Jeffries Thanks for the great video! May I ask you where u got the bolt kit from? Did you assemble it yourself at the vw dealer or is it to buy like that? Thanks!
+Alex Lecher I purchased the whole timing belt kit (which included the bolts) from IDParts.com.
Hi ,great video. Can you tell me where and how large the holes are that are drilled behind the cam sprocket for its removalll? thanks,
You have to drill the hole yourself. It is not there from the factory.
Thank you so much
Hey I've noticed, as you can see at min 16:00, that the belt sits kinda crooked on the sprockets. Is that normal, even for a new timing belt? Just inspected mine and its the same.
If you're just replacing the belt, do you have to go thru all the work of removing valve cover, vac pump, etc?
paul rogers The only thing that you have to remove is the vacuum pump. You have to remove that so that you can lock the cam at TDC. You don't have to remove the valve cover, but you do have to loosen the cam sprocket off of its taper. So unless you have a puller, then the only way is to use a punch on the back side of the sprocket.
How do you inferface the timing belt checker software with the vehicle? Do you just download the software from RossTech on your computer then plug in a interface to the vehicle. Thanks for the video!
Yes, you download the Software on a laptop or tablet. Then plug the cable into the car (the cable is included when you purchase the software). The computer or tablet has to run a Windows operating system.
If you need any more help let me know.
I'm about to buy a Jetta tdi year 2000 with 140000 miles for 2500 dollars is that a good deal or am I getting ripped off lol this is a really helpful vid by the way no talking non sense straight to the point great job
It’s a good deal if it’s in good shape
Hi again Levi, Is the tool you made to turn the cam sprocket what you use to roll the the engine over?
I roll the engine over with the 19mm Crank sprocket bolt. I do not use the tool I made, to turn the engine over.
The proper way to torque those studs on the block, the ones holding the rollers is to use a nut and counter nut on the stud. Torque it to 16ft/lbs or 22 NM
my lower roller stud was a PITA to get out. It took much more than 16ft/lb to get out. more like 30. I'm doing this job at the moment. Should the lower stud be threaded in all of the way? I ask because it will definitely exceed the spec torque of 16ft/lb to put back. Do you think some anti-seize would help?
Hello Levi, you mentioned the timing mrk in the transmission housing as the raised bump at lower edge of window. ive seen in service manual that the mark is different. it looks like an engraved circle with a line split across the middle. the hump/bump thing is not the correct mark.
+Jamal Malik The manual transmission has an engraved circle with a split line. You are correct.
But I was doing the timing belt on an automatic, and that has a raised bump as the timing mark.
But i have a auto and it shows the circle with split. The circle sign is exactly the window length under the hump. I just need to be sure b4 tightening down the stretch bolts.
+Jamal Malik What year car do you have? And did you read the "How To" that is in my video description?
+Jamal Malik I just checked again, you are right. The auto does have a engraved circle with a line. The bump should be at the top of the window and the engraved circle with the line should be at the bottom.
Do the diesel pump has to be set
Many thanks
Great video Levi, thanks for showing us. Can you adjust the timing using the laptop or is it just to check it & then alter it using the 3 bolts on the pump? many thanks!!
The timing is a little complicated. When you change the timing like I did in the video, you are changing the mechanical timing of the pump. You check the timing with VCDS and then move the pump using the three 13mm polts on the pump.
The ECU has no control over timing until the vehicle is started. So you change the mechanical timing so that it will start faster. Once the vehicle is started the ECU can control the timing. The ECU can only move the timing a few degrees either direction (retarted or advanced). So you change the mechanical timing so that the ECU has the greatest range of adjustment.
There is another adjustment you can make in VCDS to change the timing via the ECU. This only changes the timing once the vehicle is running. So to answer your question, you can control timing with the laptop but only to a certain extent. I changed the mechanical timing in the video.
If you want, I can make a video of the timing adjustment using VCDS.
Levi Jefferies Hello Levi, That would be so helpful if you would, you really know what you are talking about, thank you.
Malc Tulloch Right now I am replacing the turbo on our 2000 Jetta TDI, as soon as I get that done I will make a video of the timing adjustment.
Levi Jefferies Thank you, I am looking forward to it, all the best.
Malc Tulloch Sorry it took so long for the video. But here it is.
czcams.com/video/t76zrfNrJRE/video.html
We got the water pump, timing belt and front oil seal changed with your help. Thanks! but we are still having trouble with the fuel injection timing and now the transmission is not changing smoothly and hanging in a gear way to long. I can adjust the fuel injection pump the way you have showed in video but would that affect the transmission not shifting correctly. When the engine is cold the fuel pedal doesn't respond quickly for the acceleration of the vehicle. Any insights for me? Thanks Donald
The injection timing will not effect the transmission at all. You may want to get the car scanned for codes with a VCDS. Also make sure that when you did the timing belt, that you used the correct TDC mark on the flywheel. There are three marks very close to TDC and you have to make sure that you use the correct one.
Thanks for getting back to me. On my ATrans there seems to be one broad mark and that was positioned in the lower rectangle window on the flywheel/transaxle.
Donald R Scott Jr There are two broad marks and one timing mark. The timing mark looks like a stamped circle with a minus sign on either side. pics3.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf Here is the "How To" on TDI Club. If you look at page 46 on the "How To" it will have a picture of the timing mark.
Do you actually need to remove the cam sprocket? Seems like many just remove the tensioner below and work it off the cam itself. My cam wont come loose, so that's how i achieved it.
If you don't remove the sprocket the timing could be slightly off, probably not a lot, but it could be a little
good tutorial man, thanks for sharing. :)
You're welcome!
Jesus is Lord
Levi
where would i find the bolt/hard component kit./ How would i search for it on rock auto
Fiftycaliber
You can buy a bolt kit on i'd parts.com.
Jesus is Lord
Levi
Thanks for replying. I'll have to get back to my car soon here but I still have the timing belt on and have not taken it off yet. All I did was line my fly wheel up to TDC and noticed that my fuel injector sprocket won't line up even close to the hole at 1oclock. The sprocket hole is more at 7oclock now. My car was running fine as well before I started all of this. Do you think I need to crank it over another revolution to the tdc markings on the fly wheel again? I stopped everything I was doing as soon as I noticed things are not lining up.
Yes, just turn the crankshaft one more revolution and set it to the TDC mark. Once you do that, the injection pump should be very close. Is the car a manual transmission or an automatic?
Levi
levi, the car is a manual, and thanks alot for your time. i really appreciate your help. ill be recommending your videos to other tdi owners!
Thank you
Levi
Levi Jefferies
I'm still in the process of replacing the timing belt. I now have everything all lined up and locked in position except for the camshaft. I have the timing belt off and obviously the camshaft sprocket. I have the same camshaft locking tool as you but it allows me to keep my valve cover on. my locking tool won't go in because my cam is not timed. how do I time the cam so that the locking tool will lock into place? I was really hoping I didn't have to take off my valve cover because I have a few stripped valve cover bolts, don't have any new bolts to replace them. any help would be great, thanks!
Just temporarily put the camshaft sprocket on and tighten the bolt just enough so that you can turn the camshaft with the sprocket. After you have the tool locked in the camshaft, you can remove the bolt and sprocket. The sprocket should come off easily if the bolt was not tightened too much.
After you have the timing belt on, remove the camshaft locking tool and counter-hold the camshaft sprocket BEFORE you tighten the bolt, otherwise you risk breaking the camshaft or the tool. (All of those instructions are in my video.)
Jesus Is Lord
Levi
I've never heard of vag com so in order to tune your injector pump I'll have to purchase this? I have a 99 vw jetta tdi with 315,000 miles so timing belt needs to be changed asap your info would be much appreciated.
+Billy Flansburg You definitely need to check the timing with Vag Com. You will either have to purchase it or find someone to let you borrow it. You can also pay a VW shop about $50-$90 to set the timing with a Vag Com.
great video.
Where did you get this manual?
best regards
It is just a Haynes manual, I think I obtained off of eBay.
What was that computer software for the timing?
Do the EGR collers have a tendancy to crack? I have only worked on VR6 engines
+Michael Brown Not very often but it has happened a few times. I am just saying that it would be a good idea to check it before doing the head gasket. You can remove the flex pipe that goes from the EGR cooler to the EGR and take a look inside it.
Levi, I just bought a 2000 GTI 16 valve automatic transmission vehicle and I need to change the timing belt. Do you have any information or contacts that I may utilize for this project?
Donald R Scott Jr I only work on the TDI engine, so I would not know of any resources for the gas. A Google search would probably be your best bet
Where are you located? Looks like you did an awesome job. Would you be interested in doing mine?
Hersey, MI. Thank you, actually run a shop now, Levi's TDI's. I am sure we can do it if you want us to
ALH was in 1999.5 as well!!!!😤😤
How many bolts are there altogether in the engine mount that need to be replaced?
The Engine mount has 7 bolts that need to be replaced. 3 that go into the block, 2 that go to the frame, and 2 that bolt the engine mount to the engine mount bracket.
alh engine was also in mk3.
so mk4 from '98 also has an alh
Only the Golf and Beetle had an ALH engine in 1998 model year. The Jetta did not come with an ALH engine until 1999.
you should replace the camshaft seal while you are in there
I'm kind of confused on the site. What software for a 2002 Beetle 1.9L TDI.
+Michael Brown The site can be confusing. Did you buy a genuine VCDS cable or was it a cheaper copy?
If you have a genuine cable, then you download the latest VCDS (at this time 15.7). If you bought a cheaper cable then you need VCDS Lite (at this time 1.2).
Dude! Great job!! Methodical. Impressive!! If you're close enough, I want you to do mine!! What State are you in?
I am in Ludington, MI
Is that software you were using at the end of the video necessary for doing this job?
It is not completely necessary. So long as you use tools to lock everything properly, the timing will be close, but to get it perfect, the software is necessary.
Any possible negative consequences to not having it perfect that you know of? Thanks again for answering all my questions, this is helping me get my car back without going into debt.
If the timing is too far off it can cause a check engine light and hard starts, but it won't hurt anything unless it is way off. Is your car a manual or an auto?
Ah okay. It is manual.
Sounds good. The TDC mark is a little easier on the manual to find than the auto.
Jesus is my Lord
Levi Jefferies
Distribuțion Alh 90 mii km?
Hello im french i dont speak english.. this video its for vw golf4 1.9 tdi 90?
Yes, this is a MK4 Golf TDI with a 1.9l ALH engine code.
is it possible or recommended to just mark the belts and pulleys to repl. the belt? I called my local dealer and they said thats how they do it. For ~ $1200.00 I said no thanks.
That is not the correct way to do it, and can get the timing quite a bit off. I would definitely not have that dealer do it, and I personally would never do it that way unless it was an emergency and for a temporary repair. It might work fine, but it also could go very wrong.
Sincerely,
Levi Jefferies
Man I'm looking to get one if these alh cars here pretty soon for reliability and fuel mileage. I will be finding a 5 speed. Are they as reliable as I hear? Is this the hardest part about owning the car as far as what umm be doing maintance on? What else do I need to look for? Wanna keep it very close to stock. Just want a good car to go back and forth to work with good fuel milage and won't let me down. Thanks.
Maintenance is pretty good on a VW TDI. They are getting very old now, and are very hard to find with low mileage on them. It is very rare to find one in good shape. The timing belt is the largest maintenance for sure, but as with any car, check it out really well. Check brakes, suspension, tires, odd noises, oil leaks, interior issues, windows, door locks, number of keys, etc. Make sure it was maintained well, it will always be cheaper in the long run to pay more up front for a vehicle that needs little work, compared to an inexpensive one that needs alot of work. A 4 wheel brake job alone is pushing $600 on almost any vehicle at a repair shop. Hopefully this helps...
Jesus is Lord
Levi Jefferies
Levi Jefferies this helps so much bud thanks alot and merry Christmas.
@@LWNDmax glad to be of service.
Merry Christmas to you and your family too!
Levi
I drive an '03 Golf with this ALH and 5 speed around 60 miles a day back and forth to work. One of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned. Currently, it has 194k miles (about time for a timing belt change, just bought all the necessary components). One thing to look out for is the intake system clogging up with gunk from the EGR. Also, the EGR itself can fail, and oil can spray out of the diaphragm housing. Not a big deal, but it's the only issue I've seen so far. Run a magnetic drain plug for the O2J transmission(I use Redline MTL Fluid), make sure fluid doesn't leak out (I've seen it leak before, even with the stock drain plug). I run biodiesel and renewable, which is great, but keep in mind, you could have fuel system seals fail if you do this. Replace them with viton and you're good to go. Pull the injectors and ensure that they are atomizing the fuel correctly. You absolutely do not want one of these spraying a stream of fuel directly onto the piston head. Lastly, if you get one of these, try to find one that is either made in brazil or germany. VIN will start with either a 9 for Brazil, or W for germany. (Higher quality paint and interior)
BTW, fantastic video
@@roblastem2905 Dude, awesome info, thanks for taking the time to write it.
Jesus is Lord
Levi Jefferies
For what reason do you loosen the pump bolts just to replace the timing belt? If you leave the pump alone why won't the timing be right after you put the new belt on it? And have you ever played with advancing the pump to get better fuel mileage? I know on a Dodge/Cummins you can get killer mileage out of it, if you set the pump to 16 degrees or maybe even more.
+rod builder You loosen the bolts because the belt stretches and the new belt will be a slightly different length.
I have done some timing adjustment for fuel mileage. I have advanced it about 5 degrees, which is about the maximum because the computer will put the car in limp mode if you go to far. The ECU will advance the timing almost 10 degrees when you rev it up.
I asked the same question to a VW dealer and they replied saying if the belt swap is done correctly, the timing should still be good. I was told the same by an import shop. This video saved me a LOT of time. I did end up skipping the timing bits though. When I lined up everything top dead center, all my locking tools fit perfect, unlike the cam slot in this video. I did this job in a day, being my first one. And I can see why they replaced that spring clamp on the intake tube with a hose clamp!! I fought with that stupid thing for over an hour! Not cool, get a hose clamp or leave out the power steering pump until you get that sucker on there.
You can get the timing very close just by using the locking tools. But it will not be exact on every car. The average person will probably not notice, but to do it right, the timing should be set with VCDS.
The clamp on the intake is very difficult to get on and is much easier with a hose clamp. But you can by spring clamp pliers that have a cable, and it makes that clamp much easier to work with.
Also crank pulley, injection pump pulley and internal parts of injection pump do wear ever so slightly over time which will result your timing to be off by a little bit. And that little bit does matter. Replacing the belt withput VCDS will get the timing close to what it was with old belt but it may not be in spec..
I'm doing my timing belt. It's at top dead center, flywheel mark on pointer, cam lock in, injection pump lock in, crank lock in and both the cam sprocket and injection pump sprocket are loose.
Tensioner marks aligned up moving clockwise and tensioner arm is in the square. So I tightened up the sprockets and removed the locks and rotated the engine clockwise a few times. Then I checked the tensioner marks and they are not aligned anymore so I tried to line them up again and no go. They will not get close.
Did I do something wrong? Is the tensioner crap? Is this normal? Is the belt the wrong one?
Shit it was all going well until the possible tensioner issue. lol
Sorry, I totally forgot to respond. Good question, it sound like the tensioner could be bad, but it hard to say without seeing it. You do have the nut loose while you are doing it correct?
Sincerely,
Levi Jefferies
IT IS WATER PUMP DRIVEN BY TIMING BELT?
Yes, the water pump is driven by the timing belt.
Hi how are you ? its the same runaway 2003 jetta Tdi . it vibrates when i cold start .After reaching normal temperature its reduce the vibration . ( little vibration when i sit in car when idle) No engine light.
Any help please ?
sajeev canada.
Sajeev Kumar There are many things that will cause a rough cold start. There is a good chance that it is more than one thing contributing to the problem. Here is a good checklist.
-Check the mechanical injection timing with VCDS
-Check MAF readings in VCDS (should be about 350-470 at idle)
-Check injector readings in group 13 of VCDS
-Make sure there is no air in the fuel lines going to the Injection pump
-Install check valves in the fuel lines going to the injection pump.
-Make sure you are using 5w-40 or 0w40 motor oil, not 15w-40.
-Advance the timing with VCDS (I have a video on how to do that)
-Check the injection quantity with VCDS (it should be about 3-5 mg/str)
Let me know if you have any questions.
injector readings in group 13 of VCDS
i getting all .02, 1.6, -04, -04. the only 2nd cylinder always high . what you think.
i will do the timing Advance with VCDS monday. now my software not working for basic setting in the VCDS. i ordered another one, waiting..for the VCDS.
injection quantity i am getting 2.2 Mg/str
MAF( actual ) 450. is it normal ?
in which direction i tension the tensioner ?
Always tension it clockwise.
Jesus Is Lord
Levi
hey there nice vid!! doing my belt on my 2003 golf 5 1.9 tdi PD soon. but as i agree, don't re use the stretch bolts... so i went to my local parts supplier here in Holland and he looked at me if my ass was on fire hahaha.. is there a part-number for the bolt set or should i look them up one by one and order them separate?
Boa veiligheidszorg noord I have never heard of a 2003 Golf that had a PD engine. What engine code is that? If you have an ALH (which is not a PD) you can buy the timing belt kit that includes the stretch bolts.
www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=449
A BEW (which is a PD) you can also buy the timing belt kit which includes the stretch bolts.
www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=511
Here's one for the BRM engine (which is a PD).
www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=931
If you can find your engine code, (which is on a sticker under the mat in the trunk) then you can order the right kit.
Stay away from cheap parts, the timing belt is to important for that.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Levi Jefferies
Thanks for the big info!! i shall check my engine code when i am home. the partsbase gave me this info on my licenceplate : VOLKSWAGEN GOLF V 1.9 TDI PD 11-2003 / 03-2006 MOT.BKC 1896CC 77KW
Boa veiligheidszorg noord
Let me know what the engine code is.
how is the cooler tested
+Michael Brown It can be difficult. You have to somehow block the coolant lines going to the EGR cooler and see if you still lose coolant. If you block or plug the lines, then you also should remove and plug the vacuum line on the top of the EGR so that the EGR will not allow hot gases into the intake.
Well looks like the cooler is bad. I blocked off two of the coolant openings and applied air to the big coolant hose and you can here air leaking from the EGR pipe. It seems to be a very small hole. Well now I know I dont have worry about a head gasket.
+Michael Brown That is great. You can get a used EGR cooler for about $50. Sometimes cheaper.
34 minutes in
not 44#+90*
~Engine mount bracket to engine bolts (16mm) 33
-Pendulum mount to Body mount:(16mm) 30 + 1/4 turn
-Engine mount to engine bracket:(18mm) 44 + 1/4 turn (updated bolts [grey in color] are 74 ft.lbs. trans and engine side)
Thank you!
Would you mind if I post your comment in the video description?
Why couldn't you just leave belt on ip pulley and move it to the bolts are close to middle??
Kalbo King The IP Pulley is locked with the locking pin, to turn it you would have to remove the pin and that would cause the IP timing to be off and the car would not start.
I hope I am understanding you correctly, correct me if I am wrong.
hi . i have 2003 jetta tdi . it crank won't start . what will be problem, where i have to start diagnose.
Does your glow plug light come on when you cycle the key?
Levi Jefferies i found oil in-between exhaust manifold and EGR cooler ( a small pipe connected in between the exhaust and EGR cooler . is it normal.?
Sajeev Kumar How much oil? Just a residue or a large amount?
Levi Jefferies Just residue . i checked the EGR cooler its little oil ( residue ). is it normal . what are the possibility to get oil there .
Sajeev Kumar Are you saying there is oil in the EGR cooler or there is oil on the outside of the EGR cooler? Oil in the EGR cooler would not be normal. Oil on the outside would be normal. The EGR valve on these cars will frequently weep a little oil onto the EGR cooler and exhaust manifold.
17:56 WHERE IS HE PUTTING THE SCREW DRIVER ! HE WALKS IN FRONT OF THE CAMERA . THANKS. Now i have to go find another video to figure out what he just did !
Maybe be thankful he made the video..
Sorry, I did not mean to cover up the camera. I put the screwdriver through the hole that I drilled in the rear camshaft cover and set it on the camshaft pulley to pop it off of its tapered fit.
don't you have to use a thread lock?
You are supposed to replace stretch bolts, and they require no thread locker unless specified in the repair manual. The only bolt that requires a thread locker, is the stud that holds the timing belt tensioner on, but that stud comes with thread locker already applied.
+Levi Jefferies thx man
You're welcome
Ruslan Kupriychuk
WTF video 480p? :P
video too dark