You really are my hero. I have been a maintenance technician for a few decades now and I learn something from every one of your videos. I have never seen any videos that covers everything in detail the way you do. I am happy that you have a son to pass all your knowledge along to.
Going through a failure on my Suburban 20f-q right now. This video was well done. One thing you said was that you should hear a “series” of clicks. I only hear one click (no ticking) and then ignition. I feel heat coming out of my exhaust for about three seconds and then it goes cold again. I learned, from your video, that its the solenoid. Now… to find it ….
Today managed to repair an open circuit solenoid coil. Carefully removed the plastic moulding to reveal a broken wire just at the weld to the spade terminal. Resoldered the wire and all back to life. Thanks for pointing me in that direction to test both solenoids.
This video like so many other informational videos is much appreciated by me. With all the videos out there on DIY's I have aquired the confidence and skill (already mechanically inclined) to take on almost anything when it comes too RV service or repairs. ON my older class A motorhome when I bought it, nothing worked on it. Now my furnace, water heater and refrigerator are running top notch now. Thanks to people such as yourself. Still need to fix my slide, hydraulic jacks and generator.All in good time.Thanks for your videos
Just wanted to say THANK YOU !!!! I was not familiar with RV LP furnaces operated.I watched several of your videos and was successfully able to diagnose that all the components were working properly...however it was a clogged in the port due to dirt dauber nest. Thanks again Darren and Dakota for your videos.
GOOD INFORMATION : SAIL SWITCH IS MONITORED BY COMPUTER : SAIL SWITCH MUST BE OPEN INITIALLY (~1second) till FAN COMES UP TO SPEED ( VOLTAGE from BATTERIES : THROUGH WIRES + CONNECTIONS NEEDS TO BE 10.5 volts ) THEN CLOSE CONTACTS ...COMPUTER IS CHECKING THAT FAN SWITCH IS NOT JAMMED/STUCK CLOSED ! !
Great video. I knew what I was looking for but because I’m always hesitant on things I’ve never touched before I often look for something that confirms my troubleshooting approach. This video nailed it.
You're the best!! I made up the wires that I needed to test my solenoid with my dewalt battery. Once it was hooked up I could hear them open. I used my compressor and blew air it and could feel air. I did it a few more times then hooked it back up to my water heater and it started up. I must of had something get in there when the dealer worked on my gas lines.. I appreciate all the help.
Thank You for clarifying for me. I was led to believe that my sail switch was bad but it was clicking just no gas or click from gas valve. I did ohm them out but both said 39.0 and 39.4. I did get 1 click from gas valve and it fired and ran normal but only clicked once out of 15 tries. Light blinks 3 times for ignition failure of course. I’m thinking board. It ran fine just weeks before this. Thank you for being so clear.
All this complicated stuff...turns out to actually be simple when you explain it. I've been concerned about lighting up the furnace on our recent purchase of a 30 year old Motorhome but today I have become eager to light it because I'm no longer afraid of it thanks to you.
This was the most informative video on the subject I have found and I have been digging for a lot longer than I wanted to when I started out. You are a genuine badass sir! thank you much.
Hey … Thank you for this video!!! I was dealing with a Atwood HE-0601 refrigerator. When running on gas the fridge was stopping on an increasing basis. By stopping, I’m saying that inside the trailer the fridge control panel was showing a gas error (both the gas and error were lit up and it was beeping) .. and there was no flame. For months all we had to do was turn the fridge off and restart it. However, on the last day of our vacation (a week ago) … it failed/errored … and we could not get it to restart. Thankfully, all we had to do was leave the fridge closed and head for home (a couple hours earlier than planned). In my research (lots of it) … your video taught me how to troubleshoot. The Solenoid on my fridge ‘looks’ identical to the ones in this video. They tested with 42 Ohms. The gas valve … using air … was clogged. I then took apart the Solenoid “valve” that’s in the gas valve and tested the Solenoid (using a 12v battery) with only the ‘plunger’ in it … things were moving fine. So, I cleaned the plunger/valve with alcohol … put it back together and it’s now running like new. So … not a Solenoid failure … but you pointed me to the problem. Thought I’d share in case this helps others. Thank you! Ps … I know Atwood is bought by Dometic & it’s going to get more difficult to get parts … where can I get one of those Solenoids before I can’t anymore. I was researching and I only found one place on eBay but the price is high
(I did this before seeing your video.)i banged on the valve/silonoid assmby and mine started working again, i think it was getting stuck because all connections were good. I might later on check the coil ohms. thanks for covering that area on the furnace since others never mention it.
love the comprehensive video and instructions... best I've seen so far and am glad I found it but, how do you get 40 ohms with 12v and .5a? I thought I understood ohm's law and this is confusing me...
Great video, very informative. I bought an old camper in great shape but the fridge wouldn't work on lp (got that fixed) and now I'm working on the furnace. Took it all apart because the fan was stuck and kept blowing fuses. Turns out it was full of old mud wasp nests. Replaced the board because ignitor wasn't working and now I'm basically at this point. Fan comes on, you can see the spark through a small window but no lp smell from exhaust. Thanks again for making this video, it's satisfying fixing things and your explanation of how the system works makes me confident I can finish getting the furnace going.
I tested the solenoids and one was stuck, tapped on it and now the furnace is working great! I'll replace the solenoids because they're old but it's working now.
Hi Bill, We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
A series of fast light smacks with a 5/8 wrench is what fixed mine. I freed many things in this manner. It almost always lasts long enough for the replacement part to arrive whenever the trick works. We call that a "Fonzorelli repair" or percussive maintenance.
Love your videos, they have been very helpful, I just happened to watch the video where you said the exhaust tube had to be attached or the Furnace would not run. Unfortunately I did not see this earlier, I purchased part's to fix my Dometic, I have not had the opportunity to try furnace with tube attached. Please note on your videos that tube has to be attached while troubleshooting furnace. I will continue watching, all very helpful, Thanks
Got a dometic 20121 that has been giving me grief since just out of warranty. Sometimes it works sometimes not. Fan starts up then quits about 20 seconds later, no solenoid click. This weekend we were without shore power. It was about 5 degrees Celsius outside at night. Furnace didn’t work. When I plugged the trailer into the generator the furnace would work fine. Went through this several times, same results. Trying to fix for two years. Replaced sail switch, limiter switch, igniter , and controller board. Same issues. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. Worked fine once I got it home!
dude you are saving me so much repair money!! thanks for these videos. I'm new to RVing and only semi-handy when it comes to repairing stuff, but watching these make me feel so confident that I can do alot of this stuff myself!!! Especially on the electrical stuff which has always been a mystery to me, but starting to understand as I watch you do it :)
Glad our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
As someone that is interested in becoming an RV Technician this is all incredibly helpful! You are an amazing teacher and CZcamsr. Thank you so very much
Awesome video! My family and I have been on a (what is now a two year rv trip). Stuff breaks... When diagnosing these things, I look at something like a furnace gas valve, (the problem with my valve was it hadn't been used for so long, the solenoids had become stuck.). Anyway I look at that valve and say to myself, well it should be a matter of X, Y and Z. Watching your videos, demonstrates that it is indeed a matter of X, Y and Z.. oh and by the way, watch out for W. Your videos have been of tremendous help to me! If we are ever in Washington, I should probably track you down and work for you for free for a couple of weeks. :-)
This was great. I have just discovered there is a problem with my furnace. Not sure what it is yet, but as I track it, I will keep the solenoid in mind.
Awesome video, thanks! I found this while searching for info on my gas fireplace whose solenoid also failed but they don't seem to let me find a source to replace it so it was 188$ cheapest I could find to have to replace the entire valve.
I stumbled onto your channel several weeks ago and since then I have watched most, if not all your videos. Your videos are very informative and are good learning tools for folks. About the only down side is you talk to fast, if possible talk a little slower. But, I still enjoy the vids. Please keep them coming.
I've been building my bus conversion now for about 2 years and came across a Atwood / HydroFlame Furnace Model 8520 used for $50. and it has this exact issue and I had not seen any videos on it. I believed this was the issue before but wasn't sure till now. I'll see about buying the solenoid valves and hope this does the trick.. Thank You so much I'll let you know how this works.
Great video, super informative! It seemed that your mic was picking up some feedback throughout the video that impeded its overall audio quality. Despite that, it was still very helpful.
Glad our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Thanks! I'm actually trying to fix a non-working rv water heater. Yours is the 1st video that's gone beyond the basic 'duh' things I've already checked. I'm now thinking it's the solenoids or gas valve. Still looking...
I have really enjoyed watching your videos. I came across them while trying to troubleshoot the furnace on my travel trailer. However, I have not found one that describes my particular problem just yet. I will attempt to describe my problem in as much detail as possible. The furnace is an Atwood 8531 Conditions in the order of operation: 1-Thermostat on. 2-Furnace selected. 3-Temperature setpoint above current ambient temperature. 4-Blower comes on for purge cycle. 5- After purge time, gas valves open (audible click). 6- Almost simultaneously, igniter begins clicking. 7- After less than 1 second, you hear the gas ignite. 8- The blower and gas all shut off instantly. The red light flashes once. The blower remains off for only a couple of seconds. 9- The process repeats 3 times, after which the red light on the control board comes on steady (lock out condition?). I am at the point where I think I am looking at a bad control board, or maybe a bad gas valve that is drawing too much current causing the system to restart when it opens. I haven't pulled the burner assembly yet, nor have I had an opportunity to put a multimeter on it. I was just wondering what a professional would recommend doing next? The travel trailer is a 2005 Sunnybrook. The furnace was working fine on a recent camping trip. I awoke around 5:00am to the furnace cycling as stated above. I initially thought it may be a supply volume/pressure issue. I did find that I had a hole in my main gas supply hose between the regulator and the RV. I have since replaced all hoses from the tanks to the regulator, and from the regulator to the RV. I have also replaced the regulator. Still, the problem persists.
Yet another informative video. I have watched almost all your videos. With your info I have saved my self family and friends a lot of money and headaches. I am so grateful for the time and effort you put into your videos. Keep up the good work and thank you so much.
Fantastic video... doesn't describe my problem exactly but certainly gives me a good starting point for further troubleshooting. Tons of great info here!
I have a older RV im fixing up . This is helpful. MY furnace won't light . But i believe i smell propane as it ticks. Hopefully i can sort it out with your helpful videos. Thanks!
this fixed my problem thank you for the video. I had a stuck sail switch...I lubed it with wd40 blew it out and put it back together and BINGO!!! problem solved!!! thanks again!!! happy camping!!!
Man, you’re funny haha. Thank you for teaching us this. I do however smell gas coming from my exhaust port.. I’m pretty sure it’s my damn board.. ugh, for real.. you got one layin around? Dude, what’s really crazy is that this video just popped up as an ad to a video tour of a house I clicked on google from. I figured I should check it out. My stepdadish suggested it might be a clogged gas valve, butttt I smell gas so.. it’s not that. 2. Ignition Electrode Replacment Crosspointed to 5/16x1/8
I had a bad solinoid last year , I checked the orfice then i went straight to the solinoid as it was the easyest one to get to without ripping the funace out ,,,, Great vids ,, Keep them comming ,, OH ITS DECEMBER ! Merry Christmas To you and your family from all in Australia
Very helpful video but I'm still stuck. When I apply 12v directly to the valve it opens and after turning on the propane gas will flow through the open valve. When I disconnect the 12v the valve closes and gas stops. However, when I reconnect the 12v with gas turned on, the valve "clicks" but gas will not flow. If I disconnect the gas, the valve opens and closes. My new gas valve operates the same as the old. A real mystery to me!
Great videos, thanks for the help. I got stumped trying to work out olms law. I tried (V/I = R) 12v/.5a = 24olm That was what I got, but I think you got 40olms Cheers
Very nicely done. I have watched a few of your videos now and you do an awesome job! I bought a new 40' toyhauler that I am just learning everything I can just in case I ever need to repair out on the road. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for all your great information. Will a bad solenoid cause a reverse problem and gas will leak because the solenoid is not closing when the furnace is shut off?
I had a furnace that wouldn't fire but I could hear and feel the gas valve solenoids clicking. I tried blowing air thru the valve the way gas flows thru and could not get any air to move. I blew thru it backwards with just my mouth and I got air to move proving at least the solenoids were opening. I never could get air thru the conventional way but once I hooked it back up it worked fine. My guess was that you needed a certain amount of pressure to full open the diaphragm in the valve that I couldn't produce with my lungs.
Thank you very much for taking the time to create these types of videos. When it comes to a Suburban furnace working intermittenly, is the culprit more the board or the main tank's regulator? I'm trying to narrow it down, but don't want to purchase either or until I get a better idea of what causes the heat to come on sometimes and sometimes the furnace fails. Everything else has been checked and all is working as it should. Both, the refrigerator and the water heater, work with no issues at all when using them with gas.
We cover some of this in our furnace playlist. One of the videos in that playlist is a complete annual service on a Suburban furnace. Another one had to do with a faulty igniter.
@@MyRVWorks When the heater does come on, I can hear a thunk coming from the furnace, as if the gas valve has engaged. But, when the unit fails to ignite, I do not hear the thunk (obviously), so I"m wondering if, in this case, the ignitor has nothing to do with it? I have used some of your other videos to service/maintain the unit, and everything with the furnace checks out, except this intermittent issue. Just looking for the closest thing possible to be the culprit, so that I can use process-of-eliminitation and start there. Thanks.
You should put all this great info on a storage medium and market it. Many times there isn't internet or cell service in campgrounds, yet people have devices to access it.
Not getting 12v to the solenoid but fan runs and tries to ignite. No smell of gas at the exhaust so I’m guessing it’s a bad circuit board? Great video btw. Succinct and informative
A great video...I hear the big click,then the small quick clicking,I smell lp but no ignition.Supposedly the board was just replaced...it does look new...Would you swap out the igniter???
Nice video, very informative and a great topic applicable to not only LP gas RV furnaces, but also LP gas RV water heaters, I believe. I do have one word of advice about the video making. We want to see you actually DO what you are talking about! You almost didn't show the battery-solenoid test! I'm glad you did! At 8:50, how about a time lapse of you replacing the solenoids? The explanation is great, but I'd like to see all of the work you are talking about done in the video. Anyway, again, either way your explanation was great. Hopefully you find some constructive criticism useful.
What I NEEDED to know was how to change the solenoids! My 2004 Beaver marquis is not get propane to the stove and fridge. I normally hear the click when I turn the on/off switch mounted through the LP access door. (due to the LP tank mounted under the coach, there is an electrical switch/solenoid to open and close the propane supply tank). As I can not get a solenoid, I was wondering if I can take the cover off and manually open the flow (until I can get a solenoid)? My other work-around was to get a "Stay longer" kit and tap that into the high pressure side and use a 20 pound propane tank (from a typical BBQ) when parked?
Darren, This one is misleading. You need to correct your ohms law calculation. 12 volts and .5 amp = 24 ohms. It must say .3 amps on the valve, not .5 amps. Also, the female spade size is .1875 or 3/16" compared to the .250 or 1/4" normal size spade connector. I know YOU know, but for some, it is confusing about the calculation.
Thank you. You’ve helped me so much. I have a question. my furnace is an Atwood 8531-111 If the flame should go out, or fails to light, is there a sensor or thermocouple that shuts the propane valve off??
The price for those whole units is highway robbery. You can order the solenoids and just replace them much cheaper as you stated. I remember doing that on our 1969 Portacabin Popup camper. Someone told me just to replace the furnace. Once I replaced the bad solenoids, it ran fine. I even sold the furnace a few years later after scrapping the camper.
ny furnace hadnt worked right since it was new. Sometimes it would light sometimes not, it usually locked out after 3 tries. we found out the lp pressure was about 8.5 water column under load, we adjusted it to 10.5 and the furnace got worse. i t would create lots of soot if it ran.i had a local service say it was a bad igniter so they changed it but no change in how it operated.everything seemed like a restriction in the flow . so we took everything out,had all new parts igniter,burner,gas valve.so when we started to disassemble it evrything looked ok until we got to the orfis. i have a 25000 btu and the size was suppose to be the 1.45 which is the smallest one. but it had a 50 which is for the 35000 btu furnace..so it was letting way to much gas into the burner. so my afmd25111 was incorrectly assembled at the factory. we spent about 4 seasons and 3 different repair people dealing with this and i fixed it and am not even a rv tech. your videos kept me searching for my answer
Question for you there Darren - all your trouble shooting & logical surmising is perfect in catching the problem (Good job too the both of you) but what do you do if it had been the gas valve itself?? Are the inners of the gas valves even repairable - can you shoot a spray into the input in hopes of loosening it up if sticky or are you looking at total replacement at that point?
Tough thing to catch on camera as solenoids like that don't often fail. Great opportunity to showcase an uncommon failure mode 🙂
You really are my hero. I have been a maintenance technician for a few decades now and I learn something from every one of your videos. I have never seen any videos that covers everything in detail the way you do. I am happy that you have a son to pass all your knowledge along to.
Going through a failure on my Suburban 20f-q right now. This video was well done. One thing you said was that you should hear a “series” of clicks.
I only hear one click (no ticking) and then ignition. I feel heat coming out of my exhaust for about three seconds and then it goes cold again. I learned, from your video, that its the solenoid. Now… to find it ….
Thanks for getting to the point and making it perfectly clear without rambling on about nothing, you are now my " go to " guy for RV repair 👍
Today managed to repair an open circuit solenoid coil. Carefully removed the plastic moulding to reveal a broken wire just at the weld to the spade terminal.
Resoldered the wire and all back to life.
Thanks for pointing me in that direction to test both solenoids.
Great information! Seeing Dakota helping and learning from his Dad brings back 60 yr old memories for me.
This video like so many other informational videos is much appreciated by me. With all the videos out there on DIY's I have aquired the confidence and skill (already mechanically inclined) to take on almost anything when it comes too RV service or repairs. ON my older class A motorhome when I bought it, nothing worked on it. Now my furnace, water heater and refrigerator are running top notch now. Thanks to people such as yourself. Still need to fix my slide, hydraulic jacks and generator.All in good time.Thanks for your videos
Just wanted to say THANK YOU !!!! I was not familiar with RV LP furnaces operated.I watched several of your videos and was successfully able to diagnose that all the components were working properly...however it was a clogged in the port due to dirt dauber nest. Thanks again Darren and Dakota for your videos.
GOOD INFORMATION : SAIL SWITCH IS MONITORED BY COMPUTER : SAIL SWITCH MUST BE OPEN INITIALLY (~1second) till FAN COMES UP TO SPEED ( VOLTAGE from BATTERIES : THROUGH WIRES + CONNECTIONS NEEDS TO BE 10.5 volts ) THEN CLOSE CONTACTS ...COMPUTER IS CHECKING THAT FAN SWITCH IS NOT JAMMED/STUCK CLOSED ! !
Great video. I knew what I was looking for but because I’m always hesitant on things I’ve never touched before I often look for something that confirms my troubleshooting approach. This video nailed it.
This was absolutely valuable to me, an enthusiastic thumbs up once again for the great information you give us in your videos. 👍
Thank you for posting this! Fixed the problem I was having. Did it myself and saved me time and money from sending it to dealer.
I know the video has been up for a while, but it helped me diagnose and repair my rv furnace.
Thanks
Thank you for your video. It prevented me from making a mountain out of a mole-hill.
You're the best!! I made up the wires that I needed to test my solenoid with my dewalt battery. Once it was hooked up I could hear them open. I used my compressor and blew air it and could feel air. I did it a few more times then hooked it back up to my water heater and it started up. I must of had something get in there when the dealer worked on my gas lines.. I appreciate all the help.
Thank You for clarifying for me. I was led to believe that my sail switch was bad but it was clicking just no gas or click from gas valve. I did ohm them out but both said 39.0 and 39.4. I did get 1 click from gas valve and it fired and ran normal but only clicked once out of 15 tries. Light blinks 3 times for ignition failure of course. I’m thinking board. It ran fine just weeks before this. Thank you for being so clear.
All this complicated stuff...turns out to actually be simple when you explain it. I've been concerned about lighting up the furnace on our recent purchase of a 30 year old Motorhome but today I have become eager to light it because I'm no longer afraid of it thanks to you.
This was the most informative video on the subject I have found and I have been digging for a lot longer than I wanted to when I started out. You are a genuine badass sir! thank you much.
I am a heating and cooling contractor and I found this video to be extremely informative. Thank You!
Hey. You vid helped. Turns out the furnace was getting weak power under load. Got heat now - Thanks !
Great Videos mate! Now I just need to find the right one to help me figure out what is wrong with my furnace.
Hey … Thank you for this video!!!
I was dealing with a Atwood HE-0601 refrigerator. When running on gas the fridge was stopping on an increasing basis. By stopping, I’m saying that inside the trailer the fridge control panel was showing a gas error (both the gas and error were lit up and it was beeping) .. and there was no flame. For months all we had to do was turn the fridge off and restart it. However, on the last day of our vacation (a week ago) … it failed/errored … and we could not get it to restart. Thankfully, all we had to do was leave the fridge closed and head for home (a couple hours earlier than planned).
In my research (lots of it) … your video taught me how to troubleshoot. The Solenoid on my fridge ‘looks’ identical to the ones in this video. They tested with 42 Ohms. The gas valve … using air … was clogged. I then took apart the Solenoid “valve” that’s in the gas valve and tested the Solenoid (using a 12v battery) with only the ‘plunger’ in it … things were moving fine. So, I cleaned the plunger/valve with alcohol … put it back together and it’s now running like new.
So … not a Solenoid failure … but you pointed me to the problem. Thought I’d share in case this helps others.
Thank you!
Ps … I know Atwood is bought by Dometic & it’s going to get more difficult to get parts … where can I get one of those Solenoids before I can’t anymore. I was researching and I only found one place on eBay but the price is high
(I did this before seeing your video.)i banged on the valve/silonoid assmby and mine started working again, i think it was getting stuck because all connections were good. I might later on check the coil ohms. thanks for covering that area on the furnace since others never mention it.
I am a happy camper, thanks for demystifying this furnace.
Simply put, this was an awesome video. Thank you.
love the comprehensive video and instructions... best I've seen so far and am glad I found it but, how do you get 40 ohms with 12v and .5a? I thought I understood ohm's law and this is confusing me...
I agree it doesn't seem like he did the Ohm's law correctly, maybe he just made a mistake reading the label or something.
Great video, very informative.
I bought an old camper in great shape but the fridge wouldn't work on lp (got that fixed) and now I'm working on the furnace. Took it all apart because the fan was stuck and kept blowing fuses. Turns out it was full of old mud wasp nests.
Replaced the board because ignitor wasn't working and now I'm basically at this point. Fan comes on, you can see the spark through a small window but no lp smell from exhaust.
Thanks again for making this video, it's satisfying fixing things and your explanation of how the system works makes me confident I can finish getting the furnace going.
I tested the solenoids and one was stuck, tapped on it and now the furnace is working great!
I'll replace the solenoids because they're old but it's working now.
@@Golden-ui5um where did u find the solenoid?
Thx MRVWI for sharing your tricks of the trade. Nothing like camping in freezing weather when the heaters kaput been there done that. Happy Camping
Hi Bill,
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
I am an RV tech and your awesome. SoS Mobile RV Repair and Locksmith Services Panama City Beach Florida
A series of fast light smacks with a 5/8 wrench is what fixed mine. I freed many things in this manner. It almost always lasts long enough for the replacement part to arrive whenever the trick works. We call that a "Fonzorelli repair" or percussive maintenance.
Awesome watching 2 of my favorite sailing couples together!
Love your videos, they have been very helpful, I just happened to watch the video where you said the exhaust tube had to be attached or the Furnace would not run. Unfortunately I did not see this earlier, I purchased part's to fix my Dometic, I have not had the opportunity to try furnace with tube attached. Please note on your videos that tube has to be attached while troubleshooting furnace. I will continue watching, all very helpful, Thanks
Got a dometic 20121 that has been giving me grief since just out of warranty. Sometimes it works sometimes not. Fan starts up then quits about 20 seconds later, no solenoid click.
This weekend we were without shore power. It was about 5 degrees Celsius outside at night. Furnace didn’t work. When I plugged the trailer into the generator the furnace would work fine.
Went through this several times, same results.
Trying to fix for two years. Replaced sail switch, limiter switch, igniter , and controller board. Same issues. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. Worked fine once I got it home!
dude you are saving me so much repair money!! thanks for these videos. I'm new to RVing and only semi-handy when it comes to repairing stuff, but watching these make me feel so confident that I can do alot of this stuff myself!!! Especially on the electrical stuff which has always been a mystery to me, but starting to understand as I watch you do it :)
Glad our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Great video my 41 yr old RV furnace still works ,I can fix it now if it doesn't start one day,thank you.
Awesome video. Thank you. Super concise. So many people make 10 minute videos to give 2 minutes of info you flip that on it's head.
As someone that is interested in becoming an RV Technician this is all incredibly helpful! You are an amazing teacher and CZcamsr. Thank you so very much
Brilliant, just fixed my 1998 RV water heater over here in the UK - thanks so much.
Where do you put two thumbs up at? Please don’t rush. While I’m a amateur I’ve learned a lot. Thanks for the great videos.
Awesome video! My family and I have been on a (what is now a two year rv trip). Stuff breaks... When diagnosing these things, I look at something like a furnace gas valve, (the problem with my valve was it hadn't been used for so long, the solenoids had become stuck.). Anyway I look at that valve and say to myself, well it should be a matter of X, Y and Z. Watching your videos, demonstrates that it is indeed a matter of X, Y and Z.. oh and by the way, watch out for W. Your videos have been of tremendous help to me! If we are ever in Washington, I should probably track you down and work for you for free for a couple of weeks. :-)
I really enjoy your videos your shows
This was great. I have just discovered there is a problem with my furnace. Not sure what it is yet, but as I track it, I will keep the solenoid in mind.
Awesome video, thanks! I found this while searching for info on my gas fireplace whose solenoid also failed but they don't seem to let me find a source to replace it so it was 188$ cheapest I could find to have to replace the entire valve.
Thanks for another great video Darren! Excited to begin my own journey as an independent Mobile RV Tech and getting inspiration from your videos.
Cody, all the best to you as you start your tech career!
I found it! Excellent video, will try this once it’s light out. Thanks
I stumbled onto your channel several weeks ago and since then I have watched most, if not all your videos. Your videos are very informative and are good learning tools for folks. About the only down side is you talk to fast, if possible talk a little slower. But, I still enjoy the vids. Please keep them coming.
I like that you talk along fast. But I would recommend that you avoid using abbreviations. Like LP etc.
@@3Repete Yes. What is a cell switch?
@@shanep5121 I don't know.
I've been building my bus conversion now for about 2 years and came across a Atwood / HydroFlame Furnace Model 8520 used for $50. and it has this exact issue and I had not seen any videos on it. I believed this was the issue before but wasn't sure till now. I'll see about buying the solenoid valves and hope this does the trick.. Thank You so much I'll let you know how this works.
You my friend are an absolute lifesaver, this was exactly my problem, thank you so much, your videos are a great asset!
Great video, super informative! It seemed that your mic was picking up some feedback throughout the video that impeded its overall audio quality. Despite that, it was still very helpful.
Excellent explanation. Thanks! 😀
As always, clear, concise and understandable. No guessing here people. Keep the good stuff coming!!
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Do you realize what an AWESOME RV technician Dakota will be???
Thank you I know your video was one-year back but it it help me today thank you
Thanks! I'm actually trying to fix a non-working rv water heater. Yours is the 1st video that's gone beyond the basic 'duh' things I've already checked. I'm now thinking it's the solenoids or gas valve. Still looking...
I have really enjoyed watching your videos. I came across them while trying to troubleshoot the furnace on my travel trailer. However, I have not found one that describes my particular problem just yet. I will attempt to describe my problem in as much detail as possible.
The furnace is an Atwood 8531
Conditions in the order of operation:
1-Thermostat on.
2-Furnace selected.
3-Temperature setpoint above current ambient temperature.
4-Blower comes on for purge cycle.
5- After purge time, gas valves open (audible click).
6- Almost simultaneously, igniter begins clicking.
7- After less than 1 second, you hear the gas ignite.
8- The blower and gas all shut off instantly. The red light flashes once. The blower remains off for only a couple of seconds.
9- The process repeats 3 times, after which the red light on the control board comes on steady (lock out condition?).
I am at the point where I think I am looking at a bad control board, or maybe a bad gas valve that is drawing too much current causing the system to restart when it opens. I haven't pulled the burner assembly yet, nor have I had an opportunity to put a multimeter on it. I was just wondering what a professional would recommend doing next? The travel trailer is a 2005 Sunnybrook. The furnace was working fine on a recent camping trip. I awoke around 5:00am to the furnace cycling as stated above. I initially thought it may be a supply volume/pressure issue. I did find that I had a hole in my main gas supply hose between the regulator and the RV. I have since replaced all hoses from the tanks to the regulator, and from the regulator to the RV. I have also replaced the regulator. Still, the problem persists.
you need a new limit switch
Yet another informative video. I have watched almost all your videos. With your info I have saved my self family and friends a lot of money and headaches. I am so grateful for the time and effort you put into your videos. Keep up the good work and thank you so much.
Thank you so much I tested mine and 1 is bad . Weird think just switch them over and furnace works. Just waiting for replacements . Thanks again
thanks to show simple way to test these! another option to check why I'm having intermittent issues ?
Very good vid, right to point no BS. thank you
Thanks so much! I watched several videos of yours and you helped me tremendously to fix my furnace. Liked and subscribed.
Fantastic video... doesn't describe my problem exactly but certainly gives me a good starting point for further troubleshooting. Tons of great info here!
I have a older RV im fixing up . This is helpful. MY furnace won't light . But i believe i smell propane as it ticks. Hopefully i can sort it out with your helpful videos. Thanks!
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this fixed my problem thank you for the video.
I had a stuck sail switch...I lubed it with wd40 blew it out and put it back together and BINGO!!! problem solved!!!
thanks again!!!
happy camping!!!
Man, you’re funny haha. Thank you for teaching us this. I do however smell gas coming from my exhaust port.. I’m pretty sure it’s my damn board.. ugh, for real.. you got one layin around?
Dude, what’s really crazy is that this video just popped up as an ad to a video tour of a house I clicked on google from. I figured I should check it out. My stepdadish suggested it might be a clogged gas valve, butttt I smell gas so.. it’s not that.
2. Ignition Electrode Replacment Crosspointed to 5/16x1/8
What he said. Thanks 👍
I had a bad solinoid last year , I checked the orfice then i went straight to the solinoid as it was the easyest one to get to without ripping the funace out ,,,, Great vids ,, Keep them comming ,, OH ITS DECEMBER ! Merry Christmas To you and your family from all in Australia
Thanks so much Darren! Really appreciate all your videos. Happy Holidays!
Very helpful video but I'm still stuck. When I apply 12v directly to the valve it opens and after turning on the propane gas will flow through the open valve. When I disconnect the 12v the valve closes and gas stops. However, when I reconnect the 12v with gas turned on, the valve "clicks" but gas will not flow. If I disconnect the gas, the valve opens and closes. My new gas valve operates the same as the old. A real mystery to me!
Great videos, thanks for the help. I got stumped trying to work out olms law.
I tried (V/I = R) 12v/.5a = 24olm
That was what I got, but I think you got 40olms
Cheers
"OHMS LAW "is my NAME : ERIC ....E= R x I ..Correct [✓]
I was wondering the same thing because you and I have the same answer of 24....not sure what is going on.
Must have been .3 amp which works out to 40 ohm
@@larryturner7102 you might be right, thanks for the reply.
Great explanation even though I got no furnace I still got a Propane Valve selenoid! Thanks!
Very nicely done. I have watched a few of your videos now and you do an awesome job! I bought a new 40' toyhauler that I am just learning everything I can just in case I ever need to repair out on the road. Thanks for the video!
Very nice video thanks for sharing
Thanks for making this video! It was very helpful for me to fix the heater in my travel trailer!
thanks for explaining beginning to end.. first time camper here with and oldie this is super helpful
Thanks for all your great information. Will a bad solenoid cause a reverse problem and gas will leak because the solenoid is not closing when the furnace is shut off?
Duuuuude. I appreciate your time making this. Can you get the tamper proof tools anywhere?
I had a furnace that wouldn't fire but I could hear and feel the gas valve solenoids clicking. I tried blowing air thru the valve the way gas flows thru and could not get any air to move. I blew thru it backwards with just my mouth and I got air to move proving at least the solenoids were opening. I never could get air thru the conventional way but once I hooked it back up it worked fine. My guess was that you needed a certain amount of pressure to full open the diaphragm in the valve that I couldn't produce with my lungs.
Thank you very much for taking the time to create these types of videos. When it comes to a Suburban furnace working intermittenly, is the culprit more the board or the main tank's regulator? I'm trying to narrow it down, but don't want to purchase either or until I get a better idea of what causes the heat to come on sometimes and sometimes the furnace fails. Everything else has been checked and all is working as it should. Both, the refrigerator and the water heater, work with no issues at all when using them with gas.
We cover some of this in our furnace playlist. One of the videos in that playlist is a complete annual service on a Suburban furnace. Another one had to do with a faulty igniter.
@@MyRVWorks When the heater does come on, I can hear a thunk coming from the furnace, as if the gas valve has engaged. But, when the unit fails to ignite, I do not hear the thunk (obviously), so I"m wondering if, in this case, the ignitor has nothing to do with it? I have used some of your other videos to service/maintain the unit, and everything with the furnace checks out, except this intermittent issue. Just looking for the closest thing possible to be the culprit, so that I can use process-of-eliminitation and start there. Thanks.
You should put all this great info on a storage medium and market it. Many times there isn't internet or cell service in campgrounds, yet people have devices to access it.
It's funny you mention that, Darren is actually in the process of writing a book LOL
Not getting 12v to the solenoid but fan runs and tries to ignite. No smell of gas at the exhaust so I’m guessing it’s a bad circuit board? Great video btw. Succinct and informative
A great video...I hear the big click,then the small quick clicking,I smell lp but no ignition.Supposedly the board was just replaced...it does look new...Would you swap out the igniter???
Thank you
Another great video Darren, thanks for sharing your expertise .
Nice video, very informative and a great topic applicable to not only LP gas RV furnaces, but also LP gas RV water heaters, I believe. I do have one word of advice about the video making. We want to see you actually DO what you are talking about! You almost didn't show the battery-solenoid test! I'm glad you did! At 8:50, how about a time lapse of you replacing the solenoids? The explanation is great, but I'd like to see all of the work you are talking about done in the video. Anyway, again, either way your explanation was great. Hopefully you find some constructive criticism useful.
Great as usual, can you purchase the single tamperproof screw tool, or have to buy a whole kit, if so, where.
Added value video???? Great, great video… thanks for your help… immediately I subscribed.
Very cool , Thanks for a great video...Thumbs up !!!
Great video, as always!!!!
Another great, informative video!
Another outstanding video on troubleshooting!
What I NEEDED to know was how to change the solenoids! My 2004 Beaver marquis is not get propane to the stove and fridge. I normally hear the click when I turn the on/off switch mounted through the LP access door. (due to the LP tank mounted under the coach, there is an electrical switch/solenoid to open and close the propane supply tank). As I can not get a solenoid, I was wondering if I can take the cover off and manually open the flow (until I can get a solenoid)? My other work-around was to get a "Stay longer" kit and tap that into the high pressure side and use a 20 pound propane tank (from a typical BBQ) when parked?
Darren, This one is misleading. You need to correct your ohms law calculation. 12 volts and .5 amp = 24 ohms. It must say .3 amps on the valve, not .5 amps. Also, the female spade size is .1875 or 3/16" compared to the .250 or 1/4" normal size spade connector. I know YOU know, but for some, it is confusing about the calculation.
Another cause of these symptoms was my regulator had failed. Had too Low of gas pressure.
Wonderful videos as always. Thank you!
Thank you. You’ve helped me so much. I have a question. my furnace is an Atwood 8531-111
If the flame should go out, or fails to light, is there a sensor or thermocouple that shuts the propane valve off??
Now I know much more than before. Great video
The price for those whole units is highway robbery. You can order the solenoids and just replace them much cheaper as you stated. I remember doing that on our 1969 Portacabin Popup camper. Someone told me just to replace the furnace. Once I replaced the bad solenoids, it ran fine. I even sold the furnace a few years later after scrapping the camper.
So valuable and money-saving information. Thank you!
ny furnace hadnt worked right since it was new. Sometimes it would light sometimes not, it usually locked out after 3 tries. we found out the lp pressure was about 8.5 water column under load, we adjusted it to 10.5 and the furnace got worse. i t would create lots of soot if it ran.i had a local service say it was a bad igniter so they changed it but no change in how it operated.everything seemed like a restriction in the flow . so we took everything out,had all new parts igniter,burner,gas valve.so when we started to disassemble it evrything looked ok until we got to the orfis. i have a 25000 btu and the size was suppose to be the 1.45 which is the smallest one. but it had a 50 which is for the 35000 btu furnace..so it was letting way to much gas into the burner. so my afmd25111 was incorrectly assembled at the factory. we spent about 4 seasons and 3 different repair people dealing with this and i fixed it and am not even a rv tech. your videos kept me searching for my answer
So was too big orifice! Same thing I guess I have at high altitude. Too much gas for the available oxigen.
Question for you there Darren - all your trouble shooting & logical surmising is perfect in catching the problem (Good job too the both of you) but what do you do if it had been the gas valve itself?? Are the inners of the gas valves even repairable - can you shoot a spray into the input in hopes of loosening it up if sticky or are you looking at total replacement at that point?