One step forward… two steps back | 1984 Harley Davidson FLT Tour Glide | Lost Spark No Start
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Lost spark… frustrating results… but when life tests you at times with multiple setbacks stay resolute in the mission. I’ll be getting this old Tour Glide roadworthy and racking up the miles!
In 1981, I bought a new FLH. Electrical system was junk. I was happy the day I bought it, happier the day I sold it. Thanks for sharing.
That reminds me of this, "what is the happiest day of boat ownership? when you buy it, and when you sell it."
It came to my mind too. But i think is in any Engine or Material owning things
Still riding something?
@@fa7842 '57 FL, '02 FLHT and '10 FXDC
@@fa7842 every day short of a hurricane, South FL has weather with boring smooth roads compared to NJ.
Enjoying the journey man, stick with it!
The crane ignition module has been purchased by S&S they have taken a good module and made it much Better! Have been running nine fir for 7 years no issues.
Good to know, have someone giving me an Ultima version (I know Ultima has its issues as a brand) but if it works thinking of getting the Crane / S&S unit for the Fatboy
@@tta850 Crane no longer available, S&S Purchased Crane version, updated and med a far superior unit! Speedy but reliable! 5 years no issues here
@@lawrencetrapani5623 Good to know, thanks!
Hi again, remember this engine is rubber mounted so check the grounds to make sure they are good and clean, most guys forget that when an engine is rubber mounted there is no direct connection to the frame. I had this issue about 25 years ago with my 80 FLT. But one night about 3 A.M. coming back from some place I should not have been, the sensor blew apart and left me on I-5, so off with the ignition and points and condenser was installed, never a problem since. By the way if you can keep the oil bath chain it will pay you back big time, in over 70,000 miles I have replaced the chain 1 time. Good luck with it, I keep watching to see your progress, oh
by the way the patina on the right side of the tank and air cleaner is from the front brake master cylinder leaking and the brake fluid is the culprit.
Great points, will check. BTW I greatly appreciate advise like this, trying to learn from the experiences of others so just want to say thank you for pointing me in a direction to check for problems!
Also I’ve been told the same about the enclosed chain, I’m on the fence about it maybe just because I’m used to my ‘96 Fatboy which has not only a belt final drive but also an enclose belt primary and it’s been really good to me 🤷🏻♂️
@@tta850 @allensooter8429 has some good advice, on the FLH bikes you have to pull the swing arm to replace the belt. I built my engine up a bit, and have snapped 2 belts. Last belt is Kevlar encased in PVC. He's also correct on the brake master cylinder leaking, there's a gasket under the MC cap that has a diaphragm for fluid expansion and a hole in the cap so it can breathe on the cap side. Once the diaphragm tears 200 miles from home, the fluid makes a huge mess. Maybe a good idea to change that soon but get one first! Or 2.
Ive replaced my share of rear belts just by pulling the swingarm axle and clevis block and fished it around the opening. You don't need to pull the entire swingarm 🤦🏻♂️
@@kennethwise7108 I think I did it this way last time, it's been a while.
@@kennethwise7108 I have a question, you're leaving the wheel in the swing arm?
Sometimes I just want to get home from work and watch people work on motorcycles. Love your vids man ❤
Thank you!
Had the same look on my timing sensor unit on my 97 flht. I switched the system out in a couple of hours for a dynatec ignition and have been running it ever since 2010
I’m doing the same and hope to have the same luck you’ve had with yours
Yeah. The deutch connectors are super easy to set up and easy to disassemble to route through small spaces. In a pinch if you have trouble with the ignition you unplug it and plug in a replacement the same way the original module plugs into the system.
I have a nice filter and gloss black s&s teardrop that would look killer!
It’s great to see that your not parting it out like what happens most of these bikes
True I see so many old bikes parted out that really showed no reason they couldn’t be kept on the road. Don’t get me wrong I appreciate that there are parts out there for me to keep mine going so there’s that!
Thanks a lot for sharing all of your progress and documenting it. I love motorcycles, but I'm a noob at mechanics and this gives me a bigger picture of how to solve things.
Thank you and yeah we all start somewhere, remember man put these things together so man can fix them!
@@tta850 Nice way to see it 👊🏽 . I'm up to date with your vids; I'm waiting on the new one, keep it up and thanks for sharing your knowledge
I just watched the last min of your video. I've had issues in the past with loose wiring in that instrument cluster. Take that off, check screws to make sure all are tight and grounded well. That has fixed similar issue I had years ago.
Will do, I’m thinking it may be smart to just go over all the wiring at this point just to rule anything like that out… we shall see
@@tta850I’ll second that.
Just found your channel, enjoying the time spending watching you resoluting the problems. Love your approach to troubleshooting!! Even if i'm not the biggest motorbike guy, i'm seeing the passion you have for the subject, that's what matters.
Thank you!
Hey love this. Throw all that chain guard away and make a chain guard. You'll find out that things a nightmare to remove let alone put back on. The 2 1/4 bolts that fix the rubbers to the engine are almost impossible to locate.
Good to know! May dig into that if the weather clears up 👍🏻
Just a thought . I hard wired my wiring according to the schematic when I connected the ignition. Now after changing the unit once on a rebuild I realized I should have used a Deutch connector plug so if you want to change it out just unplug the timing unit the same way the original ignition is a plug in .
@@philsmith3 okay you are thinking right up my alley, so there’s a ‘96+ controls kit available from HD that I want to install and it comes with new Deutch connectors… thinking of upgrading every connector (that is having issues) with a similar type at least a weather pack… what do you think???
If you are not getting 12 volts to coil look at the handle bar switches or fuses or ignition wiring like others have mentioned. You should be able to check continuity on the fuses and switches with a volt meter. You can get one on the cheap from harbor freight.
So one of the tests suggested triggering the coil by tricking the module from the sensor plug, I did and no spark, I’m leaning towards the module.
I did check continuously in the handlebar switch but not voltage, good point thank you, it’s pretty cruddy under there definitely something I am going to clean up
Fun to see an EVO with more problems than my (trouble free) 1983 FXDG shovelhead
🤣 but true
That's a find! There aren't many early Evo's out there. I have an 85 that I've owned since new, now with an estimated 300,000 miles on it. I used to have problems with belt life, so after the last one broke I converted it to chain. (I think I caught a rock in the belt on a dirt road ride the day before the break.) Now days I don't ride it in the rain or on dirt roads much, so it doesn't seem to need the enclosure. I also have that service manual. For the 85s it often makes distinctions between early and late 85s. Seems there were allot of issues with the original that were considered important enough for a mid model year upgrade. I hope you can keep this one on the road in cleaned up, but otherwise original condition. I still love riding mine.
300k miles 😳 that’s awesome! Yeah it seems they were in a learning curve the first few years, which makes things interesting for us now 40 years later!
I have a 85 FLHTC. Last bike I'll ever own
98 fxdl last bike I'll be riding
What’s up man? Cheers with a fake beer. Sober for like 6 months and some shit. I think it would be cool as shit to leave it lookin like that. I really like it. Best wishes from ca.
Thank you, I think that’s the plan at least until it makes it to Sturgis in 2025 (🤞) then we will see what else is needed lol
@@tta850 hell yeah bro. Subbed the other day. Keep it up sir.
hang in there man. you will figure it out. sometimes you need to walk away from a project for a day or so and come back to it.
💯
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, I WISH YOU WELL, AND THE BEST OF LUCK WITH YOUR HARLEY, UNLIKE THE NEW BIKES THE OLDER ONE'S SPEAK TO YOU, CAUSE THEY HAVE CHARACTER, DEFENITLY, WORTH RESTORING, KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK, I WILL BE WATCHING AND ENJOYING, BE WELL MY FRIEND!
Thank you! Will do my best with this machine 👍🏻
Thanks for the interesting content, mate! Keep it up
Drain the the oil out the transmission, put the drain plug back and fill the transmission up with kerosene. Let it sit a couple days,drain it and let it dry out,refill will fresh 20w 50.
I would definitely change that fuel hose and route it the proper way it is way too long. That is a 4 speed transmission.
Clean all connections and follow your wires to make sure nothing is cracked and going to ground electronics need to be clean
Good advice and easy enough to pull apart and inspect all the wires / connections. Will do 👍🏻 thank you!
I have a1980 FLT. Check your switches on the bars . Otherwise, that's cdi ignition on that as it's a EVO.
Thank you will do 👍🏻
Subbed! Im curious about the future of this bike. Thanks for the upload!
I want to suggest a Crane HI-4 ignition module, with rev limit and led for TDC when installing, but I'm going to suggest points like others have. And get two sets with 2 condensers. I REALLY like the stock CV carb. It can be jetted, I went with the ThunderJet carb mods. I did the entire upgrade but you can do just jet and slide on this bike.
Is the Hi-4 ignition just the sensor or is it the sensor and module? I kinda want to replace both and as much as points interest me (for conspiracy theory reasons) I’d like to keep the electronic ignition if possible.
Try to find Accel Supervolt coils for both bikes. They may not be available anymore. I have had the same coil since '95! Runs great, well did until I parked it.
@@tta850 Sensor and module. You'll have to run the harness but that's no big deal. The HI4 also has several advance curve profiles it can select to run about as perfect as it gets.
There's a Dyna system similar to the HI4 that people like too. Never tried one. To run points I think you'll need to change the breaker plate inside the cam cover. That's a good flea market item.
Okay next question, if switching to points does that eliminate the module and vacuum sensor? Like the points drive the coil directly? Sorry the last car I had with points was a 1969 Delta 88 (years ago) and my ‘49 Indian has a magneto which is a whole different animal.
Grease's Garage has a good step by step video on converting an Evo to points ignition.
@@594bolt cool!
Lol..OK this is my last comment. You can run points if your broke. It can be set up like a shovel. My 87 fxr is a rat but always runs. Walmart lawnmower battery ext ext. You got this man.
I’ve actually thought about running points on both my bikes, but for a crazy reason… I figure if we are ever hit with an EMP that points would still work, what do you think?? Yeah I can be a little paranoid and crazy at times lol
@tta850 what do I think? Lol..OK well 87 fxr. Points, kicker,chain drive, wall mart big lawnmower battery in hoged out box ( fits barely) turn on tune out. That's what I think..LOL
She sounds nice when you were out on her sort that gear issue…..ooops now that no spark coils points new condensers new batt you’ll get it done from uk nice bro.
Greetings. I see some good advice about grounds, switch wiring, ignition retro or upgraded aftermarket but... Here is my two bits I noticed that your nosecone cover was MIA when you went on a ride so if it was already missing then you could have a really dirty pickup and reluctor also that starter/kill circuit from the bars was notorious for failure. Remember it is your bike and there are too many "experts" that will happily drive you into debt telling you this and that should be changed so trust your manual and gut as well. Good Luck
Thanks will check for dirt in the sensor, I have someone loaning me an Ultima unit to try, but your suggestion on the kill switch wiring that I will definitely dig into, it’s pretty crusty under the gauges!
I can never figure out why bikes -or cars; that have sat for a decade or two get a boost and 'see if it runs' ...instead of a bit of fogging and a compression test... to start with. But no; Let's run it without checking the oil.
Sometimes you just wanna see what happens lol 😉
I hated those enclosed rear oil bath chain models always leaked.
I would clean every electrical connection. Did mine last winter and plan to make it a regular maintenance item
@@bobtoner9820 great idea, as I look over the electrical system it definitely does not appear to be the most weatherproof design, any suggestions or improvements you made on yours I’d love to hear it 👍🏻
Hey man cool project, did your bike have the fairing originally? I have an 86 Tour Glide Classic and I’ve been thinking about removing my fairing to have it look more Road King like. Thumbs up from Jersey my man!
Yes it had a batwing (street glide) style fairing and tour pack, the fairing had slight damage and once I took it and the tour pack off to start working on it I fell for that look, exactly as you said like a Road King
Do you have a volt meter? When you turn it in you should get 12 bolts to the coil. You can also check resistance in the coil primary and secondary side. Primary are the two posts secondary are where the plug wires go in. Look in the manual for resistance values measure with a volt meter and it will tell you if coil is good.
So I checked the resistance compared to the manual, one of the reasons I tried the coil was because it was outside the range the manual stated… but then so was the one I took off the FatBoy 🤔
If you are getting 12 volts to the coil and the coil checks out then look at the ignition system a check timing
Timing I’ve never done but going to learn as I got an Ultima module from a friend to test and see if it fixes the issue. Let’s see how that goes…
I bet you get it fixed.
Did you put the jack stands on the swing arm??? Wanted to use jack stands as well but wasn’t sure where to place them for the rear tire
Yeah on the swing arm, seemed to hold it well, on the softail I put them under the frame but that would block access to the oil filter on this one.
Just replace the chain with an O-Ring style one and you'll never have to worry about that stupid enclosed oil housing
I’m leaning in that direction if I can get the trans fully functioning, if not switching to a belt drive trans may be the better option… we shall see
maybe the airfilter is the issue
Ended up being the module, replaced with aftermarket Dynatech / Ultima 👍🏻
Did you check compression?
Yes compression is good, not great but hasn’t fallen off from the other day when I checked. Spark on the other hand not so good 😢
The module is fucked! It would be better to update. No parts out there for this.
@@Vics2CarGarage I’m thinking you are right on this, leaning towards an updated setup like the Hi-4 or Dynatech 2000i… it just makes sense to me to condense two components into one… we shall see
Let folks to know to subcribe. I did.
Thanks will do 👍🏻
By far , the ugliest stock harley ever made. I love it.
🤣 💯
Ok absolutely last comment cause im not being helpful. I have a panhead Billy, dave barr theory on keeping old Harleys on the road. Google their bikes. Youll get it. You may not like yours that ratty. Its not for everyone. But good luck with it