Much appreciate the video 🙌 I needed to remove a 90° ABS elbow (that was right against the wall !), in order to add a cleanout instead (kitchen sink vent).. Had zero room to cut, but your trick released the elbow no problem 👌
About to try this, without doing the cuts, we'll see how it goes. Its my work, so I know its a good bond. I've broken the joints apart on old work before with not too much trouble, but never my own.
The cuts help to get heat to the transition cement and to loosen the joint, no reason to try to save any ABS fittings. Just be careful when cutting that you don't damage the pvc if you need to save it. The easiest way is just cut everything out and rework it, but the concrete tube prevented that in this instance. Good luck with your project Roxanne!
@PropertyProblems its all abs here. I wanted to save the fitting on one side as it's part of the 2" washing machine trap and they're $$$ these days. I was able to get the ABS apart by cutting through half the adjacent fitting (22° elbow), heating up the end and breaking the remaining pieces off in sections.
@@RESMITHcarpentry Nice work! I'm glad you were able to save the trap. If you ever end up needing a new fitting, just get the PVC equivalent and glue it up with Oatey Transition Cement
@@PropertyProblems cool. I have an issue with my closet flange hub being glued inside closet bend. Have to remove since steel rings deteriorated. Have same heat gun as you. Instead of making cuts, I'm thinking of heating the fitting all-around and loosening and removing by hand
So it's an offset flange? That could work, but the heat gun trick works best on transition cement in my experience, not sure what kind of glue you're working with there. Depending on your access, you could use an inside pipe cutter or a fitting saver to remove the bad piece. Or you could cut and remove just the steel ring, they sell replacement rings that come in two pieces for easier installation to an existing flange.
The heat gun just needs to warm up the transition cement to loosen the bond, you definitely don't want the pipe to get hot enough to make fumes. ABS plastic (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) has a low melting point of 221F/105C, so be very careful. That's what I was illustrating with the pipe "turning to jelly" example about halfway through the video.
@@PropertyProblems yes I remember it on your r video , I have a 45 degree angle fitting that is PVC and I have heard people say the fumes are toxic, so your saying that if I heat up the PVC and DO NOT create fumes that it will be safe???
You don't want to heat the pipe, just the glue. This works because ABS and PVC are joined with transition cement, which softens when it is warmed up. With PVC, I would just cut it off and use a fitting saver if you need to save the fitting.
Much appreciate the video 🙌
I needed to remove a 90° ABS elbow (that was right against the wall !), in order to add a cleanout instead (kitchen sink vent).. Had zero room to cut, but your trick released the elbow no problem 👌
Great job! I'm glad the video was helpful and you were able to complete the repair. Feel free to reach out if you have any issues!
About to try this, without doing the cuts, we'll see how it goes. Its my work, so I know its a good bond. I've broken the joints apart on old work before with not too much trouble, but never my own.
The cuts help to get heat to the transition cement and to loosen the joint, no reason to try to save any ABS fittings. Just be careful when cutting that you don't damage the pvc if you need to save it. The easiest way is just cut everything out and rework it, but the concrete tube prevented that in this instance. Good luck with your project Roxanne!
@PropertyProblems its all abs here. I wanted to save the fitting on one side as it's part of the 2" washing machine trap and they're $$$ these days. I was able to get the ABS apart by cutting through half the adjacent fitting (22° elbow), heating up the end and breaking the remaining pieces off in sections.
@@RESMITHcarpentry Nice work! I'm glad you were able to save the trap. If you ever end up needing a new fitting, just get the PVC equivalent and glue it up with Oatey Transition Cement
Thank you 😊
You're welcome! thanks for watching 😊
Do I need to make the small cuts into it too???
It definitely helps loosen up the fitting, just be careful not to cut through the piece you want to save
Would this also work on ABS glued to ABS?
Unfortunately this trick only works with transition cement. For ABS cement, Isopropyl Alcohol will break it down pretty easily
@@PropertyProblems thanks! I ended up chipping it off with a screwdriver and a series of small cuts.
What temperature with the gun?
I had it on the low heat setting, which on mine is about 750-850F
@@PropertyProblems cool. I have an issue with my closet flange hub being glued inside closet bend. Have to remove since steel rings deteriorated. Have same heat gun as you. Instead of making cuts, I'm thinking of heating the fitting all-around and loosening and removing by hand
So it's an offset flange? That could work, but the heat gun trick works best on transition cement in my experience, not sure what kind of glue you're working with there. Depending on your access, you could use an inside pipe cutter or a fitting saver to remove the bad piece. Or you could cut and remove just the steel ring, they sell replacement rings that come in two pieces for easier installation to an existing flange.
Will using a heat gun release toxic fumes??!
The heat gun just needs to warm up the transition cement to loosen the bond, you definitely don't want the pipe to get hot enough to make fumes. ABS plastic (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) has a low melting point of 221F/105C, so be very careful. That's what I was illustrating with the pipe "turning to jelly" example about halfway through the video.
@@PropertyProblems yes I remember it on your r video
, I have a 45 degree angle fitting that is PVC and I have heard people say the fumes are toxic, so your saying that if I heat up the PVC and DO NOT create fumes that it will be safe???
You don't want to heat the pipe, just the glue. This works because ABS and PVC are joined with transition cement, which softens when it is warmed up. With PVC, I would just cut it off and use a fitting saver if you need to save the fitting.
You're not supposed to glue ABS to PVC in the first place either, lol
Correct, I replaced this with PVC, but they do make transition cement for that reason, as there are times when you have to glue up to existing work.
They do make transition cement but it does not conform to code. Use a shielded mechanical coupling.
Why they do I didn't get it is it cheaper why that don't use nuts pipe nutts ?