I am about to fill the original fender bolt holes in my 1951 GMC Pickup bed. It has an interesting history you might like to read about. I took off the OEM fenders of the bed in 1967 when my Aunt gave me a junker Farm pickup so I could build a small trailer to haul my strawberries out of my FFA Garden to the Saturday Sale Barn. I stripped off the cab & cut the frame to use as the trailer frame, but since the step side fenders were mangled bad after a decade of farm work, I tossed them. In 2012 after my Aunt died and her kids were selling stuff off her farm they called me and asked if I wanted (free) the old trailer I built when I was 16. (1967). I jumped at the chance to get it. I have been redoing the old trailer to use behind my 4X4 rig over the years when I have the time to haul camping gear and I installed Jeep style fenders on it. So now my plan is to fill the old fender mounting holes, sandblast it and paint the old trailer. Already tossed the old axle I put on it so many years ago because that 1951 4 bolt truck pattern is no longer available. I built a 3500 cap axle with my 4x4's 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern so I now have 2 spare tires. Shame I can't post a picture of it up here. Been using this method for filling holes for years. Glad to see the craft is stiill being used....
Thank you Karl!!! I never thought of using this technique to fill holes, I’ve always used weld to fill holes and it’s a nightmare! I will definitely use this from now on! Thank you again!!!
@@MakeItKustom nice idea...if you used ac tig on the steel here, would that make the magnet not an issue.? I have heard that ac is useful to prevent arc blow or when welding magnetized metal in the smaw process
Thats a cool tool! As a toolmaker with experience of punching, cutting, pressingtools I would recommend you to make a rounded shape like getting it cutting in two spots at first on the tip. You have to try out the radius that fits you (bigger radius mean more force) and the piece that you will fit the "dot" into.This to make it more like cutting than forcing thru avoid that expanding the sheetmetal will do when hitting the entire surface at once and make the tool stick when the remaining sheet re-shape and the hole get to small.😊👍
Yes absolutely if I had shape the end it would cut it a little bit better but it would also distorted a bit so I don’t mind the struggle with the tool a little bit to get a perfectly flat disc that doesn’t need to be hammered. For larger holes I would absolutely have to make it more of a cutter. Thanks so much for your guidance on this. I am not a tool maker but I love listening to you experienced individuals such as yourself
That's like electrical knockout punches. Whitney punches all have that pilot point. But jewelers disk punches are always flat and square to eliminate distortion on the piece you want to keep which is the slug not the parent metal
Different times man! There are so many different ways to do it and I don’t ever want to take anything away from other techniques. It’s all too easy for us today lol
That’s a pretty cool idea. I used a similar method to fill in a dozen holes where the roof rack was on my Cherokee Chief. Instead of making a tool, I used a 1/2” hole saw to cut out little circles. This worked great since the outside diameter of the holes I wanted to fill were a 1/2” and the inside diameter of the holesaw was about an 1/8” less. This left me with a 1/16” gap all the way around.
I was getting ready to say i must be the only person who has issues w the arc and magnets and was glad to see im not the only one. I was using extremely strong magnets before and inches away would mess the arc up bad. Awsome video
Thanks!! Great idea!! One suggestion I would offer: My son and I are doing a 57 Chevy and have been doing lots of patches in the floor. Probably up to around 30 holes and/or fasteners that we have removed. For holes this size (up to 1/2"), I have purchased a "Whitney" punch. The Whitney punch uses a dye that looks very similar to the transfer punch so it makes a disc with a slight "center" dimple and the plug is a tiny bit distorted (not flat). Choose just the right size drill bit (that the punch dye JUST fits in) or JUST undersize. Put the plug into the hole (turn a rat tail file like a ream ) until the piece just goes into the hole. Use a dolly and hammer to flatten the plug in the hole. This expands the plug so it holds itself into the hole and it's flush. So, I would suggest you try using the transfer punch with the centering tip as it's manufactured. Hopefully it will make the same kind of plug the Whitney does that is slightly "shrunk" so it will expand when flattened in the hole. Larger holes are done with a stepped (uni ) bit. The plug is made using a corresponding size hole saw with the pilot bit removed (drill a small hunk of plywood first and clamp it to the metal as a guide). When the hole saw cuts through the metal, it leaves a super thin edge piece that will hold your plug from going through the hole with a magnet on the backside. Hitting that thin rim with the arc gives you a fusion tack. Hammer and continue from there.
Dude if you floors are that bad just buy some pans they are only like $150 each. And how does you under bracing look, from what you said you might better take a look and think fives times about doing a frame off. Yes I am building a 56 and am a tri-five guru! I mini tubbed it and slapped a 2008 challenger independent rear end with wavetrack differential into it. You can catch a few glimpses on my channel so you know I am now full of 💩.
@@kinzieconrad105 Look at "The Time Machine" playlist @ Pappabob on CZcams to see our work on the floors. They definitely don't need replacing. Check it out. ;o)
I just snagged up the parts and pieces to make this for 3/4" holes. I found you earlier this week when I was home sick... now I'm trying to catch up watching a vid or two a day. I have a 47 dodge thats the same cab as yours. I love what you have done to yours, I'm going a way way different way, but yours is breath taking. Keep up the good work, keep teaching this poor fool how to do some of this stuff on a budget.
Neat solution. Thank you for sharing. Having had to solve this problem several times, and always tacked a plate to the inside (in the hope of minimising shrinkage issues etc), then filled the original hole with weld on the front, I can definitely appreciate how much neater, more economic and smarter your solution is. I’m a UK based 63 year old retired aircraft engineer who restores bikes and have zero interest in stock cars btw. We never stop learning. Cheers
Right on I bet you’ve had a lot of great experience in your life so far! I’m glad you found this solution. I’m with you on stock vehicles lol there are plenty of people that love them and they can restore them so that we can have all the fun by cutting them up lol cheers
As always, I enjoyed your video. I made a similar tool to make plastic washers for the screws that hold on motorcycle bodywork. They're usually white plastic, but you can easily find a plastic jug of some sort that will more closely match the body color. It takes 2 punches - one for the screw hole, and one for the outside. Punch the screw hole first, then visually center the screw hole in the outside punch. Bam! Custom plastic washers.
Wow that’s pretty cool I’m a union sheet-metal worker and I do a lot of welding and if there was a hole I would just slap a piece of copper or aluminum on the backside and fill it with weld and then grind . Thanks for A new idea 💡
I bought a '66 Mustang in which someone had drilled half inch holes in the dash for an aftermarket radio. I found a piece of .5" round stock about 8 inches long and used a bandsaw to cut off about an eighth inch of material at one end. However, I didn't cut all the way through, instead leaving just enough material to keep the eighth inch piece attached to the rod. I held the rod up to the hole from behind the dash and tacked it into the hole that needed filled. Then I broke off the piece by bending the rod until the piece broke. After grinding the tacks I used body filler to smooth the repair.
Thank You! I was shopping for a hole punch, but all the good ones are too expensive for brief use. This is Exactly what I need to make the holes I want for spot welds! Thank You Again! GREAT VIDEO!!
Hi Kris, you need to put some clearance on the lower half of the tool and the blanks will drop out much easier. A tapered reamer will do the job. Check out some blanking & piercing videos to get the idea. Love your work Benny
Those transfer punch sets are one of the best things from Harbor Freight. They're cheap ($10) and useful for many tasks. I use them for mandrels, alignment pins, pin gauges, and they're cheap enough for use as steel stock. Buy a set for transfer punching and get extras for all the others uses.
I have a shop set up similar to yours. But most people watching thsi do not. I like it when you don't use the machines at hand and keep it simple so that everyone can feel they can do the same work in their shop at home. THANKS Dan H
Iv used this technique for many years! I just save all the slugs from my hole punch tool for spot welds. I pop them in place and hammer on dolly on it and that expands the slug enough to hold it for welding. That or I’ll just use masking tape to hold it. Great video as always!
LOVE your vids. I'm learning so much. I'm preparing to restore a 1968 Triumph Spitfire and I'm comfortable with everything except the bodywork. Your videos are my required training leading up to starting the bodywork.
I really enjoyed this tool you created to patch holes in your vehicle. Then I took a look at your film metal reborn .. I am blown away how professional this film was made and presented…way to go Karl
Ohhhh, a Porche! My aunt had a black 356 convertible in vegas but uncle crunched the front "bonnet" and discovered a load of bondo already under the paint!
Brother you have an old soul. And I say that with the utmost respect. If you was to just show your work, without people knowing you did it. They would think that a person like Gene Winfield did it .God Bless you, you're amazing at metal work. My hat's off to you sir. Kristina you do great camera work also .Keep up the great work and God Bless you both and your family. 🔥💯💪🏼👍👍🙏🙏✌😁✌
Thank you so much Mike! I do take that as a high compliment. I’m friends with a lot of older dudes and listen when they talk. I’ve always been taught to have a lot of respect for someone older than I because whether it’s a parent or not their life experiences speak volumes especially in similar industries. Thanks for your support Mike cheers!
every episode is a home run. Great idea, well explained. Love your show. You have a really good way of explaining and showing ideas. And very pleasant to listen to. And tell your wife her editing/filming are seriously appreciated. Love you two!!!!
This is great. As a teenager, ten years ago, I have owned 1978. Fiat 600 clone called Zastava 750. Still regretting selling it and I am avoiding buying it again because all of them need some serious bodywork to be done. But watching your videos are giving me confidence so maybe at some moment, I will buy one again and do the restoration by myself. Thank you for this great quality content.
Awesome I’m so stoked that you are more motivated to take on a new project! That’s the goal of the channels to get as many people in the garage as possible
Awesome, just a thought….if you taper the punch tool from cutting face to end, as it punches the hole through the sheet stock it will no longer get stuck and will fall right through the die body ready for the next punch. 👍
If you leave the point in the center of the transfer punch it makes the patch slightly concave. Once you put it in the hole you’re filling a tap of the hammer and dolly will flatten it out and it’ll stick in the hole for welding.
If you weld a nut half way down your punch and put a spring on the bottom of the punch before putting in to the block you can punch them out really fast just make sure you are holding that punch because it will bounce high if not held and can hit you in the head it works awesome with a fly press
Thank you for sharing this marvelous tip, Karl! I can already see how it is going to be most useful in the near future! Enjoy your week! Be safe! 'Looking forward to the "event"...
Now that is great. I'm going to try this. Now I am cheap, so I was thinking about cutting the punch in two. Then I still have the transfer punch.I will see. Thanks for sharing 👍👍🇨🇦
Recently you mentioned after reaching 100k subs that it was because of us the viewers. I’m going to have to disagree agree and say no it’s be of you, the master!! Your content is what is bringing the views. Awesome work. Awesome content. Amazing tips and I learn more every time I watch. Thank you.
Great technique, thanks. BTW, tempering is not hardening. It's done after the hardening to reduce brittleness, most hardened steels will chip. fracture if not tempered. Tempering reduces hardness, creating toughness in the steel.
I got a super old Whitney Punch No. 5 with 6 dies on eBay for $20. Doesn't work for all sizes but works so awesome. Does 18ga sheet metal perfectly. Use masking tape on the back to hold the plug it place just to tack it (super fast tacks). Remove tape and weld up. I also tried magnets but found it does mess with the tig arc. My 1951 shoebox ford has 18 ga sheet metal (.045) and found 45 amps is perfect. I am a beginner tig welder so still learning.
repairing a tail gate on my dads Jeep bottom rusted away ,, the bottom had curves then the lip too hold the skin ,,also had to replace the bottom part of the out side skin . there is a few screw holes just drilled and cleaned them ,, but had to make 2 sq holes for the hinges ,, I drilled then did lots of file work .. I will have to get some sq stock that is hardened and see if I can punch sq holes in the next project .. thankyou for the video ..the sq hole is about 1/2 too 5/8 sq ..I used 18 gauge steel to patch the tailgate
You can hand punch larger discs if you grind a pringles shape on the punch, that reduces the punching force required but you will need to hammer the disc piece flat again. Or you could punch it out with a hydraulic press instead of a hammer.
There are lot of disc cutter available in market. In jewellery this tool already used. Different size of hole and punch available. It's good idea I never thought to use in filling hole via welding.
Karl, I forgot a trick that an old time metal shape and welder taught me. When I use the wire from my big wire welder .035, I use a mechanics aircraft safety wire twister to twist the welding wire. I don't know why it works, but it really makes your weld much smoother. This works great for gas welding also. Thanks and take care.
I tack the filler wire to the middle as a handle for tack welding then knock it off. I had a ton of holes to do so I tacked all my circles to filler wire ahead of time.
Fantastic tip on building that punch!! Thank you. Did your friend work at Watervliet Arsenal? That's just down the road from me, lot of high tech metal work going on there over the years. One thing - wear the gloves and shirt with the tig! That UV coming off the torch is way worse than any sunlight for burns, it can cause skin cancer. Thin tig gloves are fine, you just have to block the light. Lost a friend to skin cancer, was only in his late 40's. Take care of yourself, you only get the one ride.
If you ever need to re-harden your punch there’s a technique by heating and slow cooling to get the hardness needed. We used to sharpen our punches, chisel’s both manual and air hammer bits & our shop blacksmith would re-harden them for us.
nice tool idea. ive been using various sized flat washers and then use the head of a nail to fill the washer hole. or just a nail head to fill tiny holes. anything smaller than 1/8 pretty much just gets welded up (solid wire+ gas)
I had a wonderful elderly neighbor next door. He had quite a few tidbits to throw at me on occasion. One time totally out of the blue he said do you know that a punch doesn't punch a hole, it cuts a hole. I of course ask what he was referring to. He said there's a very slight taper to the end of the punch so it doesn't punch a hole it cuts a hole. Food for thought. I never tried it but I'd love to see you do it and see if it makes any difference. That way I would know if Wes was right or not. 😁 I'm thinking like a 1° taper or two maybe? .... Heck I don't know. I don't have a CZcams channel, you do it. 😁 Thanks for sharing that's pretty clever. If you do put an angle on it, I'm wondering if the angle might be flatter and more accurate to do using a belt sander than with a grinder. ..... For heck a grinder with very fine grit might even better. That would put a slight cup shape in the end of the punch making two cutting edges. It would be fun to see you try out a few different methods of making different ends on the punch that were not a perfect 90° Remember, like West told me, you're cutting not punching. 😉 If what I'm advising doesn't work then don't blame it on me, blame it on Wes. 😁 Doing what I just advised might distort the piece of metal but repairing the distortion, well, that's what a hammers for.
Thanks for the info! You’re absolutely right if you had a tiny bit of a taper it would cut a little bit easier. When it’s totally flat it does truly punch the hole. It’s OK for small holes but if we were to do larger ones the taper would be absolutely necessary
Thank You for all that you do I am going to start building my first project I’m looking at a 1934 ford coupe do. I came across your videos a week or so ago and can’t stop watching them I have learned so much and will be implementing a lot of your ideas in this build i do have auto body knowledge just no where near as much as you do 😂 Keep up the great work Adrian Santiago Massachusetts
Cool tool, great idea especially if you have lots of holes to fill. Have you ever tried using a piece of brass on the back side and doing a plug weld on top of the brass? ( if you have access to the back that is) the brass shouldnt stick. I know it works on heavier material. Cheers
^^^ That was exactly my thought. I use brass all the time at the fab shop I work at. This definitely a cool trick and has it's place but if I know I'm to grind it away I'd most likely use the brass.
This is stupid simple, how come i've not thought of this before. Awesome show, I have the want and the need but only after watching a few videos of what you do have i got the confedence to try it myself.
I think they actually sell that tool at harbor freight. It has an acrilic top with a steel base and comes with the punches. I've used one to make holes in coins but never thought of using it for this. Great video. This could be a game changer for my and my 240z lol
Once agin a great Video Karl.👍👍 Forgot to add you can use an old drill for the Pin Pick up old drills 1/2 ", 3/4" or 1" from the garage sales or even some old Blunt bits as the tool steel is hard and use the shanks and will do the exact same as the Transfer Punch Drill 3 Holes in the metal Block and then you have 3 std sizes and 3 Punch pins. Winning regards Michael
Just happened upon your channel and have been admiring your skill. What caught my eye was you using magnets to position your plugs prior to welding. One time I was doing something similar and likely using a small Neodymium magnet to hold piece in place. The welding time (mig) was short, but the fumes which I am inclined to blame on a 'hot' magnet were like a baseball bat to the head toxic (smelling). Was out of the shop in a flash. Likely my ignorance. Have used magnetic right angle holders without issue.
Thanks Karl, Hey what about holes bigger than 1/2"???? Say 5/8' or 3/4" or 7/8". And what about using two pieces of 1/2" or 3/4" plate with spaces between them instead of slicing a slot with a grinder. This way you slide your punch sheet thru easier???
I think it could still be done but you have to get creative with angling the punch cutter so that it can slice around the hole. And that’s a great idea with using two pieces of plate instead of using a slot with a grinder
@@MakeItKustom With the punches I thought of using a punch head out of a punch machine. The one shop here i looked at sells these separately for around $55 USD and then all you'd need is a large heavy washer and a frigging large nut and bolt. There's your punch.
I do the same process and I agree the magnet sometimes is a pain, I use a piece of masking tape on the back side while you tack and then pull it as soon as you get your tack down
Karl, you are such an amazing craftsman and you take pride in your work so you never cut corners like most bodywork “professionals” that just slap on a ton of filler and call it a day. I wish I had a pro like you near me, I would take my pickup to your shop with my eyes closed. Great video! Keep them coming.
You just saved my OCD sanity and panel beater some time. I've got a bunch of holes on my roof left over from removing roof racks. Couldn't figure out how to cleanly cover the holes.
If you make your punch with a pin head to dimple the center it will make a patch that can be hammered into place versus held in place with magnet. If you tig these panels you may have recognized the interference that magnets supply. But neat trick none the less thanks for sharing.
Neat idea! I have been filling holes and welding frames for Ford Rangers so I can flip the trucks because as you know there are no small trucks anymore. Got lots of holes like these. thank you.
Your appreciation for not all of us having the same level of "tool muscle" and finding the rest of us a work-around is very much appreciated!
That is a neat idea. Well done. I can see me making one of these in the future.
Love your channel also
Yeah, I watch fitzees as well.
I'm learning so much from these two.
That's high praise coming from Fitzee! Love his channel, learn a lot from these guys. Grateful for every video
Thanks so much tony !
Fitzeeeeee! How are you my friend? Great to see you in here!
Your a legend bro
Ive been metal working for just over a decade and it's always refreshing to see people like yourself sharing the knowledge!!!
I am about to fill the original fender bolt holes in my 1951 GMC Pickup bed. It has an interesting history you might like to read about.
I took off the OEM fenders of the bed in 1967 when my Aunt gave me a junker Farm pickup so I could build a small trailer to haul my strawberries out of my FFA Garden to the Saturday Sale Barn. I stripped off the cab & cut the frame to use as the trailer frame, but since the step side fenders were mangled bad after a decade of farm work, I tossed them. In 2012 after my Aunt died and her kids were selling stuff off her farm they called me and asked if I wanted (free) the old trailer I built when I was 16. (1967). I jumped at the chance to get it. I have been redoing the old trailer to use behind my 4X4 rig over the years when I have the time to haul camping gear and I installed Jeep style fenders on it. So now my plan is to fill the old fender mounting holes, sandblast it and paint the old trailer. Already tossed the old axle I put on it so many years ago because that 1951 4 bolt truck pattern is no longer available. I built a 3500 cap axle with my 4x4's 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern so I now have 2 spare tires.
Shame I can't post a picture of it up here.
Been using this method for filling holes for years. Glad to see the craft is stiill being used....
Thank you Karl!!! I never thought of using this technique to fill holes, I’ve always used weld to fill holes and it’s a nightmare! I will definitely use this from now on! Thank you again!!!
Wicked Man I am so stoked that you will use this! You’re most welcome thanks for watching!
@@MakeItKustom nice idea...if you used ac tig on the steel here, would that make the magnet not an issue.? I have heard that ac is useful to prevent arc blow or when welding magnetized metal in the smaw process
Awesome tip Karl! Having just filled holes in 87 year old sheet metal I could have used it this weekend, but I will from now on...
Oh man timing was a little off. Glad you will use it in the future!
Thats a cool tool! As a toolmaker with experience of punching, cutting, pressingtools I would recommend you to make a rounded shape like getting it cutting in two spots at first on the tip. You have to try out the radius that fits you (bigger radius mean more force) and the piece that you will fit the "dot" into.This to make it more like cutting than forcing thru avoid that expanding the sheetmetal will do when hitting the entire surface at once and make the tool stick when the remaining sheet re-shape and the hole get to small.😊👍
Cuts way better. Instead of a disc grind with a mini drum sander
Yes absolutely if I had shape the end it would cut it a little bit better but it would also distorted a bit so I don’t mind the struggle with the tool a little bit to get a perfectly flat disc that doesn’t need to be hammered. For larger holes I would absolutely have to make it more of a cutter. Thanks so much for your guidance on this. I am not a tool maker but I love listening to you experienced individuals such as yourself
That's like electrical knockout punches. Whitney punches all have that pilot point. But jewelers disk punches are always flat and square to eliminate distortion on the piece you want to keep which is the slug not the parent metal
Magic trick! Made those holes disappear! We used to braze holes like that shut 50 years ago, hurts me to admit to it.
Different times man! There are so many different ways to do it and I don’t ever want to take anything away from other techniques. It’s all too easy for us today lol
I love the language you use, not overly technical but 100% descriptive and you are very pragmatic in your approach to jobs.
That’s a pretty cool idea. I used a similar method to fill in a dozen holes where the roof rack was on my Cherokee Chief. Instead of making a tool, I used a 1/2” hole saw to cut out little circles. This worked great since the outside diameter of the holes I wanted to fill were a 1/2” and the inside diameter of the holesaw was about an 1/8” less. This left me with a 1/16” gap all the way around.
I was getting ready to say i must be the only person who has issues w the arc and magnets and was glad to see im not the only one. I was using extremely strong magnets before and inches away would mess the arc up bad. Awsome video
Yeah apparently the weeker the magnet the better. Makes sense to me so I’ll buy some Amazon cheap refrigerator magnets next
Thanks!! Great idea!! One suggestion I would offer: My son and I are doing a 57 Chevy and have been doing lots of patches in the floor. Probably up to around 30 holes and/or fasteners that we have removed. For holes this size (up to 1/2"), I have purchased a "Whitney" punch. The Whitney punch uses a dye that looks very similar to the transfer punch so it makes a disc with a slight "center" dimple and the plug is a tiny bit distorted (not flat). Choose just the right size drill bit (that the punch dye JUST fits in) or JUST undersize. Put the plug into the hole (turn a rat tail file like a ream ) until the piece just goes into the hole. Use a dolly and hammer to flatten the plug in the hole. This expands the plug so it holds itself into the hole and it's flush.
So, I would suggest you try using the transfer punch with the centering tip as it's manufactured. Hopefully it will make the same kind of plug the Whitney does that is slightly "shrunk" so it will expand when flattened in the hole.
Larger holes are done with a stepped (uni ) bit. The plug is made using a corresponding size hole saw with the pilot bit removed (drill a small hunk of plywood first and clamp it to the metal as a guide). When the hole saw cuts through the metal, it leaves a super thin edge piece that will hold your plug from going through the hole with a magnet on the backside. Hitting that thin rim with the arc gives you a fusion tack. Hammer and continue from there.
That’s an interesting technique! Thank you very much for sharing I appreciate it Bob!
Dude if you floors are that bad just buy some pans they are only like $150 each. And how does you under bracing look, from what you said you might better take a look and think fives times about doing a frame off. Yes I am building a 56 and am a tri-five guru! I mini tubbed it and slapped a 2008 challenger independent rear end with wavetrack differential into it. You can catch a few glimpses on my channel so you know I am now full of 💩.
@@kinzieconrad105
Look at "The Time Machine" playlist @ Pappabob on CZcams to see our work on the floors. They definitely don't need replacing. Check it out. ;o)
I just snagged up the parts and pieces to make this for 3/4" holes. I found you earlier this week when I was home sick... now I'm trying to catch up watching a vid or two a day. I have a 47 dodge thats the same cab as yours. I love what you have done to yours, I'm going a way way different way, but yours is breath taking. Keep up the good work, keep teaching this poor fool how to do some of this stuff on a budget.
Neat solution. Thank you for sharing. Having had to solve this problem several times, and always tacked a plate to the inside (in the hope of minimising shrinkage issues etc), then filled the original hole with weld on the front, I can definitely appreciate how much neater, more economic and smarter your solution is.
I’m a UK based 63 year old retired aircraft engineer who restores bikes and have zero interest in stock cars btw. We never stop learning.
Cheers
Right on I bet you’ve had a lot of great experience in your life so far! I’m glad you found this solution. I’m with you on stock vehicles lol there are plenty of people that love them and they can restore them so that we can have all the fun by cutting them up lol cheers
Make It Kustom 🧐😎😜 You are a clever philistine.
Peace
Man, what a lifesaver this was! I made one and it is slick! I,m deleting the side trim on a 69 AMC American. I really enjoy your videoes. Thanks.
Made one took 1/2 hour to make plugged up 12 holes on my M 38 jeep windshield frame
Great tool works great, thanks bud
As always, I enjoyed your video. I made a similar tool to make plastic washers for the screws that hold on motorcycle bodywork. They're usually white plastic, but you can easily find a plastic jug of some sort that will more closely match the body color. It takes 2 punches - one for the screw hole, and one for the outside. Punch the screw hole first, then visually center the screw hole in the outside punch. Bam! Custom plastic washers.
Oh I really like that thank you for the tip! I’m sure I will use that one in the future to
Wow that’s pretty cool I’m a union sheet-metal worker and I do a lot of welding and if there was a hole I would just slap a piece of copper or aluminum on the backside and fill it with weld and then grind . Thanks for A new idea 💡
I bought a '66 Mustang in which someone had drilled half inch holes in the dash for an aftermarket radio. I found a piece of .5" round stock about 8 inches long and used a bandsaw to cut off about an eighth inch of material at one end. However, I didn't cut all the way through, instead leaving just enough material to keep the eighth inch piece attached to the rod. I held the rod up to the hole from behind the dash and tacked it into the hole that needed filled. Then I broke off the piece by bending the rod until the piece broke. After grinding the tacks I used body filler to smooth the repair.
Used the idea to fill molding holes on a door panel for a van. Worked like a charm and avoided a 7 day delay in the job waiting for another door.
Thank You! I was shopping for a hole punch, but all the good ones are too expensive for brief use. This is Exactly what I need to make the holes I want for spot welds! Thank You Again! GREAT VIDEO!!
Hi Kris, you need to put some clearance on the lower half of the tool and the blanks will drop out much easier. A tapered reamer will do the job. Check out some blanking & piercing videos to get the idea.
Love your work
Benny
I love these videos showing how to make your own tools vs buying one. Old school, cheap and easy :)
And 15 minutes later you are back at work, not waiting days for a ($35?) tool to show up :)
Right on I’m glad you dig the content! I just love making little tools especially when they work really well or they are not available
Those transfer punch sets are one of the best things from Harbor Freight. They're cheap ($10) and useful for many tasks. I use them for mandrels, alignment pins, pin gauges, and they're cheap enough for use as steel stock. Buy a set for transfer punching and get extras for all the others uses.
I have a shop set up similar to yours. But most people watching thsi do not. I like it when you don't use the machines at hand and keep it simple so that everyone can feel they can do the same work in their shop at home. THANKS Dan H
Iv used this technique for many years! I just save all the slugs from my hole
punch tool for spot welds. I pop them in place and hammer on dolly on it and that expands the slug enough to hold it for welding. That or I’ll just use masking tape to hold it. Great video as always!
That’s awesome! I’d really like to get a proper punch for sheet metal so that I can save the discs and do it like you say
@@MakeItKustom all the cheap ones I see now punch too small of a hole, mine was one my father had…. Think the company is out of business now…
Thanks for this video, I'm filling a hole from the CB antenna in the roof of a truck I bought. This will work perfectly.
LOVE your vids. I'm learning so much. I'm preparing to restore a 1968 Triumph Spitfire and I'm comfortable with everything except the bodywork. Your videos are my required training leading up to starting the bodywork.
I've had a manual hole punch press with various sized mandrels that I've used for years to make the sheet metal plugs.
I really enjoyed this tool you created to patch holes in your vehicle. Then I took a look at your film metal reborn .. I am blown away how professional this film was made and presented…way to go Karl
I just re watched this, I’m salvaging panels from a parts car, this tool and idea is brilliant for fixing holes where you’ve drilled out spot welds.
I see it is a Beautiful BC day out the window! Awesome tip!
Lol yeah we had a pretty rainy week it’s been beautiful all summer but the weather is turning
have some holes to fill in my 356, your channel has been a great resource in learning metal fab thanks for the content!
Ohhhh, a Porche! My aunt had a black 356 convertible in vegas but uncle crunched the front "bonnet" and discovered a load of bondo already under the paint!
Awesome man I’m so glad to hear it! Good luck on the project!
Brother you have an old soul. And I say that with the utmost respect. If you was to just show your work, without people knowing you did it. They would think that a person like Gene Winfield did it .God Bless you, you're amazing at metal work. My hat's off to you sir. Kristina you do great camera work also .Keep up the great work and God Bless you both and your family. 🔥💯💪🏼👍👍🙏🙏✌😁✌
Thank you so much Mike! I do take that as a high compliment. I’m friends with a lot of older dudes and listen when they talk. I’ve always been taught to have a lot of respect for someone older than I because whether it’s a parent or not their life experiences speak volumes especially in similar industries. Thanks for your support Mike cheers!
every episode is a home run. Great idea, well explained. Love your show. You have a really good way of explaining and showing ideas. And very pleasant to listen to. And tell your wife her editing/filming are seriously appreciated. Love you two!!!!
Thanks so much man I appreciate the feedback! We are really enjoying this and hope that one day it will be our full-time job
This is great. As a teenager, ten years ago, I have owned 1978. Fiat 600 clone called Zastava 750. Still regretting selling it and I am avoiding buying it again because all of them need some serious bodywork to be done. But watching your videos are giving me confidence so maybe at some moment, I will buy one again and do the restoration by myself. Thank you for this great quality content.
Awesome I’m so stoked that you are more motivated to take on a new project! That’s the goal of the channels to get as many people in the garage as possible
@@MakeItKustom You're doing a GREAT job, thank you!
Awesome fix! I'm going to use this method to patch a few holes in a motorcycle fender. Thanks!
Very good advice about the magnet . It seems to upset any weld.
Good for a small tack. As far away from the magnet as possible.
Awesome, just a thought….if you taper the punch tool from cutting face to end, as it punches the hole through the sheet stock it will no longer get stuck and will fall right through the die body ready for the next punch. 👍
If you leave the point in the center of the transfer punch it makes the patch slightly concave. Once you put it in the hole you’re filling a tap of the hammer and dolly will flatten it out and it’ll stick in the hole for welding.
I like that idea! You don’t even have to hold it
If you weld a nut half way down your punch and put a spring on the bottom of the punch before putting in to the block you can punch them out really fast just make sure you are holding that punch because it will bounce high if not held and can hit you in the head it works awesome with a fly press
Thank you for sharing this marvelous tip, Karl! I can already see how it is going to be most useful in the near future! Enjoy your week! Be safe! 'Looking forward to the "event"...
Right on Harry! You’re most welcome and thank you so much you as well!
Now that is great. I'm going to try this. Now I am cheap, so I was thinking about cutting the punch in two. Then I still have the transfer punch.I will see. Thanks for sharing 👍👍🇨🇦
Recently you mentioned after reaching 100k subs that it was because of us the viewers. I’m going to have to disagree agree and say no it’s be of you, the master!! Your content is what is bringing the views. Awesome work. Awesome content. Amazing tips and I learn more every time I watch. Thank you.
Thanks so much! We are in this together!
Great technique, thanks. BTW, tempering is not hardening. It's done after the hardening to reduce brittleness, most hardened steels will chip. fracture if not tempered. Tempering reduces hardness, creating toughness in the steel.
Thanks for all the great videos man you keep me in the tinkering mood huge fan
Awesome man thanks so much for watching I’m glad that you like the videos! Cheers
I got a super old Whitney Punch No. 5 with 6 dies on eBay for $20. Doesn't work for all sizes but works so awesome. Does 18ga sheet metal perfectly. Use masking tape on the back to hold the plug it place just to tack it (super fast tacks). Remove tape and weld up. I also tried magnets but found it does mess with the tig arc. My 1951 shoebox ford has 18 ga sheet metal (.045) and found 45 amps is perfect. I am a beginner tig welder so still learning.
That’s cool man thanks for your input on this sounds like you got a method that works well for you!
repairing a tail gate on my dads Jeep bottom rusted away ,, the bottom had curves then the lip too hold the skin ,,also had to replace the bottom part of the out side skin . there is a few screw holes just drilled and cleaned them ,, but had to make 2 sq holes for the hinges ,, I drilled then did lots of file work .. I will have to get some sq stock that is hardened and see if I can punch sq holes in the next project .. thankyou for the video ..the sq hole is about 1/2 too 5/8 sq ..I used 18 gauge steel to patch the tailgate
You can hand punch larger discs if you grind a pringles shape on the punch, that reduces the punching force required but you will need to hammer the disc piece flat again. Or you could punch it out with a hydraulic press instead of a hammer.
There are lot of disc cutter available in market. In jewellery this tool already used. Different size of hole and punch available. It's good idea I never thought to use in filling hole via welding.
Yes!
Simple tools are the best tools. Well done.
I love flexing tool muscles 😂🍻
Ha ha ha yeah man!
Ya know its good when Fitzee likes it.
Ha ha yeah he is a master!
Karl, I forgot a trick that an old time metal shape and welder taught me. When I use the wire from my big wire welder .035, I use a mechanics aircraft safety wire twister to twist the welding wire. I don't know why it works, but it really makes your weld much smoother. This works great for gas welding also. Thanks and take care.
Very interesting I’ve never heard of that! I’ll definitely have to give it a try
I might try this using a broken drill bit as a tool. I might consider annealing the hammer end of it a bit, too. Neat idea.
I don’t need it at the moment but if I ever need it I’m sure to make use of this great idea. THANKS!
Great training video! JEWELRY DISC CUTTER blocks -- all shapes and sizes. But for KUSTOM size your method will be much less expensive.
I tack the filler wire to the middle as a handle for tack welding then knock it off. I had a ton of holes to do so I tacked all my circles to filler wire ahead of time.
Smart smart smart
I really appreciate you always thinking of the lil guy! Why I follow this channel.
Thanks for a great tutorial! Was going to buy those repair kits until your video show how to make your own from scratch. Save a bunch of $$
Gotta love great ideas that cost nothing. Will keep this little cheat in my playback. Thanks Carl!
Wicked man you’re welcome!
I have used the punchout disc's from electrical boxes too. They are a little big for most things, but work okay.
Fantastic tip on building that punch!! Thank you. Did your friend work at Watervliet Arsenal? That's just down the road from me, lot of high tech metal work going on there over the years. One thing - wear the gloves and shirt with the tig! That UV coming off the torch is way worse than any sunlight for burns, it can cause skin cancer. Thin tig gloves are fine, you just have to block the light. Lost a friend to skin cancer, was only in his late 40's. Take care of yourself, you only get the one ride.
If you ever need to re-harden your punch there’s a technique by heating and slow cooling to get the hardness needed.
We used to sharpen our punches, chisel’s both manual and air hammer bits & our shop blacksmith would re-harden them for us.
Dude thank you for this tip! I've been grinding squares into circles like an Ahole.
nice tool idea. ive been using various sized flat washers and then use the head of a nail to fill the washer hole. or just a nail head to fill tiny holes. anything smaller than 1/8 pretty much just gets welded up (solid wire+ gas)
Thank you for sharing this, I will definitely incorporate this into my work flow.
I had a wonderful elderly neighbor next door. He had quite a few tidbits to throw at me on occasion.
One time totally out of the blue he said do you know that a punch doesn't punch a hole, it cuts a hole.
I of course ask what he was referring to.
He said there's a very slight taper to the end of the punch so it doesn't punch a hole it cuts a hole.
Food for thought. I never tried it but I'd love to see you do it and see if it makes any difference. That way I would know if Wes was right or not. 😁
I'm thinking like a 1° taper or two maybe? .... Heck I don't know. I don't have a CZcams channel, you do it. 😁
Thanks for sharing that's pretty clever.
If you do put an angle on it, I'm wondering if the angle might be flatter and more accurate to do using a belt sander than with a grinder.
..... For heck a grinder with very fine grit might even better. That would put a slight cup shape in the end of the punch making two cutting edges.
It would be fun to see you try out a few different methods of making different ends on the punch that were not a perfect 90°
Remember, like West told me, you're cutting not punching. 😉
If what I'm advising doesn't work then don't blame it on me, blame it on Wes. 😁
Doing what I just advised might distort the piece of metal but repairing the distortion, well, that's what a hammers for.
Thanks for the info! You’re absolutely right if you had a tiny bit of a taper it would cut a little bit easier. When it’s totally flat it does truly punch the hole. It’s OK for small holes but if we were to do larger ones the taper would be absolutely necessary
Thank You for all that you do I am going to start building my first project I’m looking at a 1934 ford coupe do. I came across your videos a week or so ago and can’t stop watching them I have learned so much and will be implementing a lot of your ideas in this build i do have auto body knowledge just no where near as much as you do 😂
Keep up the great work
Adrian Santiago
Massachusetts
Well I'll be .... This is one of the most useful, coolest, tools. Thanks for sharing this Karl.
I use a small piece of soapstone and masking tape on the backside of the hole for an easily removable backer while welding in the disc. Try it!
Cool tool, great idea especially if you have lots of holes to fill. Have you ever tried using a piece of brass on the back side and doing a plug weld on top of the brass? ( if you have access to the back that is) the brass shouldnt stick. I know it works on heavier material. Cheers
^^^ That was exactly my thought. I use brass all the time at the fab shop I work at. This definitely a cool trick and has it's place but if I know I'm to grind it away I'd most likely use the brass.
Yes I use this technique as well on smaller holes I like copper because it doesn’t have the zinc in it
This is stupid simple, how come i've not thought of this before. Awesome show, I have the want and the need but only after watching a few videos of what you do have i got the confedence to try it myself.
Brilliant, I'm making this today
Awesome Paul! Stoked you’re going to give it a shot
I think they actually sell that tool at harbor freight. It has an acrilic top with a steel base and comes with the punches. I've used one to make holes in coins but never thought of using it for this. Great video. This could be a game changer for my and my 240z lol
I love homemade solutions to common problems. Thanks for making great content.
You’re so welcome man I appreciate you watching!
Once agin a great Video Karl.👍👍
Forgot to add you can use an old drill for the Pin
Pick up old drills 1/2 ", 3/4" or 1" from the garage sales or even some old Blunt bits as the tool steel is hard and use the shanks and will do the exact same as the Transfer Punch
Drill 3 Holes in the metal Block and then you have 3 std sizes and 3 Punch pins.
Winning
regards Michael
Yeah it’s great point!
This is great for bullet holes. Just drill out the warped material and fill with the appropriate sized disc
What the heck did you DOOOO?!?!
@@THRASHMETALFUNRIFFS me to officer: “uhhh I bought it like that….?”
Ha ha so many shooting cars could be saved
Just happened upon your channel and have been admiring your skill. What caught my eye was you using magnets to position your plugs prior to welding. One time I was doing something similar and likely using a small Neodymium magnet to hold piece in place. The welding time (mig) was short, but the fumes which I am inclined to blame on a 'hot' magnet were like a baseball bat to the head toxic (smelling). Was out of the shop in a flash. Likely my ignorance. Have used magnetic right angle holders without issue.
That is a brilliant tool! Great tip! Those Unibits work great for sheet metal work.
Yeah it’s really the only way to go With sheet metal Holes. Thanks for watching cheers
every video I watch I push the playback speed to 1.5 and some to 1.75, you videos stay at normal speed, they are that good.
Nice!
I used a chassis ring for a rust hole in a moped gastank.
After i drilled it to the rings dia.
Tack a piece of mig wire to the plug and ditch the magnet! Just a thought .
Love the channel 👍
Thanks Karl, Hey what about holes bigger than 1/2"???? Say 5/8' or 3/4" or 7/8".
And what about using two pieces of 1/2" or 3/4" plate with spaces between them instead of slicing a slot with a grinder. This way you slide your punch sheet thru easier???
I think it could still be done but you have to get creative with angling the punch cutter so that it can slice around the hole. And that’s a great idea with using two pieces of plate instead of using a slot with a grinder
@@MakeItKustom With the punches I thought of using a punch head out of a punch machine. The one shop here i looked at sells these separately for around $55 USD and then all you'd need is a large heavy washer and a frigging large nut and bolt. There's your punch.
I’ve filled small holes but never had a good way to make the 1/2 filler plugs. Thanks for the tip.
You’re welcome mike!
Really nice trick, will be making one of these when I get a block of scrap. Thanks for sharing
Right on I hope you do!
Well, now this is just awesome! I learned a ton from this video. Thanks for sharing this!
Awesome Mark I’m so glad to hear!
I do the same process and I agree the magnet sometimes is a pain, I use a piece of masking tape on the back side while you tack and then pull it as soon as you get your tack down
Yeah that would work too! Got to be quick with the heat
You are an outstanding craftsman. Very well done. Thank you
Thanks very much!
Great info, you are an artist, the weld looks perfect.
Karl, you are such an amazing craftsman and you take pride in your work so you never cut corners like most bodywork “professionals” that just slap on a ton of filler and call it a day. I wish I had a pro like you near me, I would take my pickup to your shop with my eyes closed. Great video! Keep them coming.
HE made them holes like they never existed!
Thanks so much man! I’ll try my best every day in hopes to continue to grow I appreciate you cheers
Awesome presentation! Well done Karl! Thanks!
A valuable skill that I'm sure I'll use on the restomod for my pickup. Thanks Karl.
You just saved my OCD sanity and panel beater some time. I've got a bunch of holes on my roof left over from removing roof racks. Couldn't figure out how to cleanly cover the holes.
Awesome buddy thanks I need to plug a bunch of holes on my Jeep cj5. The last owner was a lil nutty with the drill!!!
Not a fabricator myself, but do some work on my rock crawler. Learning so much from you. Thanks!
If you make your punch with a pin head to dimple the center it will make a patch that can be hammered into place versus held in place with magnet. If you tig these panels you may have recognized the interference that magnets supply. But neat trick none the less thanks for sharing.
Neat idea! I have been filling holes and welding frames for Ford Rangers so I can flip the trucks because as you know there are no small trucks anymore. Got lots of holes like these. thank you.
Absolutely right on man!
@@MakeItKustomThank you my friend!
Thank you for the idea. I will be making that. Love the channel. Take care and stay safe.
Great idea! You can buy sheet metal discs already punched out.