Installing Two Repair Sleeves In A 258 AMC Straight Six Block
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- This video showcases the process of installing two cylinder repair sleeves in a 258 AMC Straight Six engine block out of a late 80's Jeep that belongs to our customer!
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I’m a machinist but not an automotive engine machinist, I love how you can preset those cutters on that boring head, I’ve seen a lot of your videos, you do great work
Aren't the boring machines great!
When I first opened my shop, after being a toolmaker/machinist for decades I couldn't believe how easy it all was by comparison.
Same goes for seat and guide work - the tooling is all pre-sized.
It's so wonderful to see these engines as you breathe into them their second wind. I can only imagine how happy the customer was with how amazing that block turned out after the repairs and refinishing.
Attention to detail, amazing work. looks like a factory fresh block and you saved an AMC engine.. Rock on Bro!!
I admire how you work and explain things so fluently. Always amazing work.
Refreshing to watch such a professionally implemented procedure, including all the gotchas that can trip up the inexperienced. Thanks for taking the time to detail everything so clearly.
As a beginner in all this rebuild stuff I appreciate the quality of work, machinery, and explanation. Great teacher!
You repaired an engine like I had in my 73 AMC Hornet. It was a very good engine! I wished it had a larger carburetor, and fuel injection would have awakened that engine! Actually I wish I had the car now!
A simple engine to work on and gave good performance.
You did a very good job, your details of whats needed in each step made it understandable and the engine's owner will get many good miles with it! Thank you!
If you find my comment above, the car the engine was in was a '71 Hornet. It was bright green, so I called it (of course), The Green Hornet. It would really boogie, and it was reliable. I had added stiffer springs, sway bars and coil-over shocks (I found Mustang shocks fit to a T). Boy! It would take a corner with extra wide T/A Radials. I miss that little car much. I sold it to Grandpa who gave it to grandkids, who wrecked it. Damn!
New subscriber to this channel. As a mechanic of over 35 years it is still great to see that all over the world there is still machine shops operating to this high standard of quality. When I was a younger mechanic we always had heads off and blocks out for repair. Now unless it's for high performance or antique restoration. It is either install a second hand engine or scrap the car. How times have changed in the automotive industry here in Australia.
America is no different.
Aside from industrial engines and hotrod enthusiasts, nobody will pay for rebuild engines.
Beautiful. This is just honest tradesman doing the things they have learned to do over years and years of experience. Well done fellas. Keep it up.
I’ve never seen equipment or the processes involved in reconditioning engine blocks. I have worked at machine shops before, but nothing like this. This video was really informative…thank you for teaching others how stuff gets done🙂
Thanks for showing the process. Never seen this done, but have had it done on numerous motors. I was shocked that you could bore the Cylinders without oil or some lubricant.
I have been watching your videos for some time now and haven't commented until now. Your attention to detail is excellent! Love the vids and the narration. Simply presented with the how and why's. Keep up the good work. Shout out to your Dad and the great work he did rebuilding the tractor.
Great job. What you do is a novelty and a lost art.👍
Your shop is awesome you and your dad are above and beyond great machinist !
You bet!😊
Nice job, now I understand sleeving and boring 30 over procedure. 👍😊
Wow, what a fine workshop!
I had never seen the block machining process. Thanks for sharing. Great to see the care and precision taken. Gives me confidence should I ever need your service.
I enjoy watching straight six AMCs getting new life. Super cool
Lovely work, it's great to see a shop that still works to such a high standard. Rare as rocking horse manure these days in the automotive engine recon business. Watching this particular job also made me think of the ease with which I could recondition my Triumph TR3 and TR4 engines back in the day, as they had wet liners that were a just a breeze to replace.
I absolutely wish I had ended up doing machining like this. It is incredibly skilled, fascinating and useful work. A skilled trade that promotes recycling before recycling was fashionable. Love it and if you want a 40+ apprentice from the UK, call me 👍
Really glad to see a new video from y’all! I know the new shop has been taking a ton of work, but it’s great to have you back!
Great work, love your optimistic view that there will be gas around when it comes to its next rebuild.
Just a note to compliment you on you teacher's patter. The instruction is succinct and entertaining. You have imparted your machinist's enthusiasm with bells on.
In 1976 I bought a new Jeep CJ5 with the 258 I-6. It had a Chevrolet Bowtie stamped on the side of the engine block. Great engine, plenty of power.
I love your attention to detail from start to finish and everything in between. I’ve worked with machine shops that would just rush through and could care less.
Awesome video and great explanation on boring for a sleeve. I have been trying to learn about the sleeve process. All the things I wondered about, you answered! Thank you!
I love watching a master machinist work.
Good job. I like that you can hear the cutter is doing it's job correct.
Had a 258 AMC in a 1973 CJ-5 these engines are anvils......Very Reliable.
Used to shim to major thrust to centre . Heat in bit causes taper larger at bottom of bore in heavy cuts
Hooray! You guys are back to decent length videos. I have missed you. What about an update on the progress of the new shop?
Shop has doors, windows, walls, a floor, and a roof lol.
Needs pretty much all the interior stuff finished :p
Hopefully soon, I will make a long video on the build process if it ever gets done lol
@@JAMSIONLINE Never enough time in the day....and nothing ever goes according to plan
when changing the cutting head, always put the retaining bolts on by hand & tighten them finger tight before cinching them down with a wrench
Good as new . That’s what I’m talking about 👍
100% ! Thoroughly enjoyed the precision machining, I have the 258 1976 Jeep CJ7 IL 6 in need of a rebuild. I wish Your shop was near by
I’d love to do this for a living
I figured trying to do a bore on a piston was not super easy and people don’t understand when it comes down to 0.010 is a bit easier to remove then 0.040
I didn’t know the piston wall can move so much thank you for explaining that
Great demonstration. Well explained to a lay person - like me.
I've always watched those saturday morning car shows. I know how big .030 is, but until you actual see the cutter removing the material, you never realize how much it is.
I love watching your videos… I’m always learning
Love watching these videos
Great video! Thank you for the time you take to produce these. 😊
That look after the second dropped nut is priceless.
Great work as usual, great machines, and all kept clean and tidy. Well done!
I like your videos. I put my time in at an old school shop in 1970s. A Portable van Norman bar and manual hone. But we had portable (in chassis crank)grinder + a stationary. We drove in frozen sleeves w/ 2# hammer
As a machinist we would move the bore a little bit when the situation on coming to our shop being a stock engine mainly you have to know how much cylinder thickness you have to work with to be able to move this cylinder bore over to a reasonable bore size and you have to look at the head gasket situation. And always look at the cost of just getting another block.
Getting closer to running!!!
Nothing better that a freshly milled surface.
Love ur guys content, I wish you would make alot more videos on all the different engines yo uh do from start to finish!! We need ALOT MORE videos PLEASE!!! Longer ones.. you guys are masters at what you do and I learn alot. Wich means I want to see alot.. lol. Thanks for the content.. keep em rollon
Wow. Just....wow. Impressive.
Wow! Excellent!! Thanks for the good video work.
I absolutely did not need this in my life but.... I'm now subscribed for future videos
That's a nice multi process machine.
Beautiful work, my friend. You bring a lot of knowledge.
That was very nicely executed!
Glad to c u again.
Excellent job 👍
My 258 snapped the #1 rod near the crank. The rod punched a 2x2 hole in the side of the block and the piston pushed up in the cylinder with the rod hanging from it. It kept running. Opened the hood to see what happened.....the new window in the block made for any easy diagnosis. I JB welded a sheet metal patch over the hole, and the 5 cylinder lasted for nearly 2000 miles afterward. 73 hornet. 130k when she blew.
the old bangers are coming back
Had the same boring bar/mill at one of the shops I worked at. Loved it!!! Especially for lower counterbore repairs.
It does good on lower counterbores! Got one coming up, I’ve done a video on one before but maybe I’ll film it again!
thanks so much for the video! love learning how its done
Great video, great quality workmanship. Looking forward to the next one.
Great video! Glad you are back!
Love your videos. Great teaching, super clean shop, and pragmatic approach to building. I do wonder why you don't use torque plates when honing?
very good video teaching us how and why of what you are doing.
More more more content please you guys are great
Excellent job
Awesome work guys keep up the great work and content 👏
1980 and later 258 are known as lightweight 258's as they removed 20lb's of material from the crank and block. the lightweight 258's tend to develop wavy bores and break rings, they can also get pinholes in number one where they're machined for the water pump. it's always better to use a pre 1980 block but the sleeves are a good option to keep a lightweight going because they won't last long if you bore to 60 thou over.
I would have sleeved all 6 of them.
@@barryfields2964 Me too 👍😏
Looks to me that the engine is telling you where the bore's centers should be, in that particular cyls. "happy place"!
I love watching you guys work! Just a thought... When you are pressing in sleeves, are you putting the tapered edge of the sleeve down or up? From what I have read, putting the tapered edge down can actually cause issues since the sleeve bottoms on the top of the taper. When the sleeve is bored/honed, you can end up with a gap between the bottom of the sleeve and the ledge at the bottom of the cylinder bore. This means that there is a slight chance of the sleeve moving in the future. When the square edge of the sleeve is put down on the ledge, this is no longer possible since no gap opens up as the sleeve is made thinner.
Very impressive.
One way to visually determine in the block is a 258 or a 4.0 is the 4.0 has an area on the water jacket side of the #1 cylinderspot faced for water pump clearance. When manufactured all six bores were finish bored in one operation. Followed immediately by honing.
That takes skill, my skills are in welding, I work on antique tractors and things I am not done with a 1957 D8 caterpillar but I do have it running after 30 yrs since it was seized from over heating but had to have some machine work done and want to say you do very very awesome work, I don't know if I'm to old at 55 to learn skills like that but would like to give it a try
Was a great video my first one so I be here again.
God bless
Very nice job. Great video.
Top vid mate thanks for this👍
Very nice work. Thanks for making it.
Just watch you complete the Cyl Head. Excellent work and customer is getting a great deal for a very reliable quality engine. Well above the quality of a factory engine.
First timer here on sleeve boring, in my past most mechanics would not trust a sleeved engine rebuild, unless it was originally a sleeved engine.
What would set a prejudice like that?
Like how you know your equipment to get it to meet tolerances.
I do agree with the other commenter about using liquid nitrogen to shrink the sleeves before installing them. It is used as a standard practice with diesel commercial, construction and agricultural motors. It is not expensive to set up. A dewar, freezing sleeve container, gloves and tongs to handle/move the sleeves in LN2, then a written procedure for safety and methodology.
Nice shop and great detail on this customers block, would be nice to see a completion video.
Thank you all for sharing.
Love your videos!
Good balance between explaining and showing the work. Maybe seeing a little bit more of the setup for machining would be nice.
Good job. Cheers from South Africa.
I wonder how many miles and what kind of care that engine had seen… Nice job.
Have you guys ever thought about freezing the sleeves with nitrogen before installing them ? I do it with machinery bushings
I was going to ask the same
You wouldn’t even need nitrogen. We use to just put them in the freezer overnight, and maybe hit the block a little bit with a torch. They would drop right in.
I have done this with atv bearings into aluminium housing,slides right in ,no nitrigen,just put in the freezer overnight.
I was also going to ask this question
Excellent video!
Brilliant video thank you
Massive amount of work and time. Good job. I would go short block before that work unless it's a engine that can't be replaced. Good to see people like you still around.
How do you know what went into the short block? Or how hot it's been? Or quality of machining? I'll always build from a known base.
A machine witha built in coaxial indicator nice
Great video, love your channel!
Love your content and I don't usually comment ....The big elephant in the room here.. Every time I pull down and engine that has been run with no thermostat . This is the what happens when ignorant people remove the thermostat..cold water / cold front bores .. fuel washes the cold bores.
Great explanation , wish I could send my engine to you guys
Have you tried using dry ice to freeze the new sleeves? It might save having to press them into place.
Nice job and fortunate customers, sure wish I could bring my work to your shop! ;)
i have work in auto machine shops on and off for 40 year's i did line boring , motor Assembly w/ test run and balancing . in the area i am in there is no one behind us to take are place and that's sad . who is the maker of your boring surfacing machine [rmc 1600 ok it showed up in your video now i know] thanks and keep up the great work and videos . i wish the blocks that i work on were as clean as your stuff is clean .
Hi, I'm a viewer from Indonesia
I like how you finish your work, actually I want my motorcycle engine to be repaired in your workshop.
but that's not possible, it's just that I like to see the results of your work.
keep up the good work and stay motivated
Nice cross hatch 👍😊🌎🌞👍
The two sleeve approach is likely to be best for a stocker, need some extra life between rebuilds. Unles syour building, no need for 60. But there is just something wholesome about Jeep I6's, they are pretty motors.
Nice work on the block, that should be good for another 100,000
Awesome as always!! Would love to ship y’all my slant and have a real machinist work on it.
aaaaaahhhh the old swing press. gall city dawg gall gall city dawg
Thank you for taking the time to go over the whole process in detail, there is a lot of videos on cylinder lining that just show this information....
Just have one question, when you retract the boring bar, how does it not scar the bore on the way out..
My guess is that it does but with a boring head that diameter its going to be super rigid and the score will only be maybe .001, but even if its .003 he is honing .004+ so it will clean up during that process. I am a Machinist (not engine) in a CNC mill there are boring cycles that will move the spindle towards center at the bottom of the bore, after the spindle orients to pull the cutter off the wall. There is also a feed in feed out cycle. I do not know if these have that capability.
@@MiloPerrotti
If I required I would imagine that they could position the cutter at the X positive position and just move the table over. 005"
@@mpetersen6 yeah duh, but does the machine have the capability to do that on it's own? That's what I'm talking about. Of course you can do it manually.
@@MiloPerrotti
Automatically? I doubt it.