VW Crafter Camper Van Conversion / Ctek DC to DC Smart Charge Controller Installation
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 11. 09. 2024
- VW Crafter camper van conversion / Ctek DC to DC Smart charge controller install
My aim is to give you campervan conversion ideas on how to convert a van into a camper and to help inspire you to build your own tiny home on wheels
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My aim is to give you campervan conversion ideas on how to convert a van into a camper. and to help inspire you to build your own tiny home on wheels
If you found this helpful please consider subscribing to my channel I really do appreciate your support thank you.
To really help support my channel why no join my member's community and get to see my videos first and without adverts, Don't forget to turn on notifications by clicking the Bell thank you đđ€đ
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hi mel, im just reading my ctek manual and it says not to install above the batteries as the charger is not spark free, are those agm batteries? is it safe to install above agm as they are fume free? i was hoping to put mine above the battery
The fuse is to protect the cable. You have the inline fuse at the wrong end it should be at the source end. If the cable gets damaged and shorted to earth it will become a fire hazard. You really should have connected to the back of the fuse board OR put the inline fuse right at the point where you plug into the fuse board.
Not often I disagree with how you install stuff but this one is important.
Thank you Iâll change it in the morning đđđđ€Šââïž
You can get a fuse jumper connector which is what you need to take a fused supply from that fuse board. Fused at source not the load.
Nice work Mel. One thing you didn't mention (or I missed it) is that the +ve cable from the starter battery to the DC-DC controller should be protected by a fuse also (another 30A according to the CTEK website). Cheers!
MEL YOU shoud have a fuse
at the start of ignishon feed to protect the long fin wier as well if you dont wont a fire if it was to get damaged
Thank you thatâs absolutely rite đ
@@BigVanSmallWorld The main battery cable should also be fused at BOTH ends. Something like a 120A should be fine.
Thanks for the videos Mel.
Just one comment on the switched live from the fuse box under the seat.
If you fit a fuse at the end of the cable you have an un fused cable going through the van. If that cable is shorted between the fuse box and before the fuse it could potentially glow red hot!
Please fuse it in the fuse box, better safe then sorry.
Exactly.... Needs the fuse at fuse box.
Good point thank you đ
If you are taking power from a fuse box why not simply put the fuse in the fuse box???? Seems to be a total bodge. Anyone in the future will have to look for the fuse rather than finding it in the obvious place. Random.
5 amps will be loads Mel its only a signal switching control wire ( me I would have put the fuse as close to the fuse box as possible as you have a meter or so of unprotected wire ,, Great vid buddy
Thank you đ
is there a reason you didn't go in trough the back of the board and use a connector and then enable you to use a proper fuse from the board instead of an in line one, . just seems strange to pull off a empty fuse board to then add a fuse
Yes mate simplicity đ
You have a way of making things sound simple.
Great stuff.
Thank you đđđ
Mel just for info - your videos are coming up on "Google Opinion Rewards" gained me ÂŁ0.16 đđ - good sign pal. Enjoy your channel gives plenty of inspiration đ
Thank you buddy thatâs kind of you to let me know really appreciate your encouragement and support đđđ
Hi Mel, that's brilliant! But my solar panel deliver 45 voltage so this ctek charge only show 23 voltage. Please give me the information where to buy that Ring charger you set up in your van... it allows 50 voltage i remember. Regards Rickard from Sweden
Very informative, easy to follow, thank you.
Youâre absolutely welcome đ
Thanks bud for a detailed video there extremely helpful:) think I might stick with the ring dc to dc still need to get that tho not great taking the batteries out to fully charge them at home and put them back in again :( but itâs ok and be finally nice to see the electrics neatly mine at the moment is no where are neatly as yours mel and this nice crafter :) youâre been a massive help inspire and look up to you :) thank you for taking the times to make these great videos :)
Thank you thatâs so much appreciated really kind of you đđđ
@@BigVanSmallWorld would it be ok next year, if I can ask for help with install a 2nd skylight and insulation for a wood stove? :) would be really appreciated if you can :)
Great stuff. Thanks Mel. đ
Thank you đ
Thanks Mel, another great informative video!
Thank you buddy thatâs really appreciated đ
Great job as always Mel.đ You are a clever little shunt đ€Ł
Thank you đđ»đ
Another great tutorial đ
Thank you đ
nice one mal you make so easy
Thank you đ
Ignitionfeed!!!! You never showed how you connected that little red cable for the smart alternator!!! đ± It should probably go to the fusebox connected with a piggy back connection, right? But how did you find a fuse that ignite when you turn the car key? Please Mel, show us! Regards Rickard from Sweden ,your buddy đ
Always enjoy your videos Mel, just a couple of "nits" to pick, you were referring to positive and negatives as lives and neutrals, Mr Virgo also fell foul of this too so you are in good company, but if you're making instructional videos you have to be spot on , the uninitiated may join positives to mains lives , taking what you say literally, obviously potentially fatal so really important to be correct. As the other poster said, the fuse should be upstream as far as possible, and of a rating to protect the thinnest wire it is feeding, the wire at the controller looked really thin, possibly even a 1 amp fuse may have been pushing it, always best to start low and increase fuse size only if you have to, and up to the rating of your thinnest wire. Also if you are making connections which are non standard maybe leave wiring diagram info for future fault finding for the poor sod who has to fault find anything going wrong... all the best mate, keep doing the videos....
Thanks for the advice really appreciated
Mel watched the video you did about smart alternators I've got 2015 boxer and want to put a split charge in it I've look at the start battery and there no black box on it on the negative side and only one cable on the negative side on the start battery
If in doubt fit a DC to DC charge controller they are better and a VSR anyway đ
Bloody hell mel, stop fidgeting around so much, making me dizzy, trying to look at the ctec controller and your waving it around like a lasso, quality vid as usual though, cheers đđș
Haha đ
Yes it like the price is right with lesley crowther in the 90s like a game show is going to start lol
missed you mel! glad to see your vids again , am looking at car lessons so i can get a van in the future for now i ride around on my motorbike but i really want a van! your vids give so many ideas
Thank you thatâs really kind of you to say good luck with your driving lessons must be freezing on a bike this time of year đđđ
@@BigVanSmallWorld i dont mind the cold its the wet roads that scares me haha
Gotta tellya mate that was all very negative at first ...burrrt then it got all positive..amazingkts .. im thinkin i.ll need one of them tharr fancy psychiatric coontrollers .. its gotta wanna install its self .. đđ€Łđ..and im always up furr a good shunt ..excellent report mate ..đđđpip pips and carryon pilgrim
G Day mate thanks for the encouragement and the advice keep on shunting đđđ
@@BigVanSmallWorld .. im here all week ..đ
The negative from the charger to battery negative only has to be max 2,5 mm2, It's only used to set a referens negative level. The current runs through the other (positive) cables.
Mel you are the man mate totally blown my head đ
Thank you đ
Aye up, so why didn't you show the procedure of putting the wire into the ignition? I've ordered a b2b charger and know that this is going to be part of the process. It might be simple, but so am I so need to see how it's done đ€Ł
Sorry about that đđ
Sorry Mel . I have just wired main engine battery into my solar charger control. Which is connected to solar Panals on roof if that helps
The fuse should be as close to the power source as possible, I'd put it in the fuse box personally! The fuse protects the cable, you've now got 6ft of unprotected wire!
Thank you đ
Totally agree to that, if that wire gets trapped it will glow red hot and cause a fire before it melts through!
Fuse as close as possible to supply!
Another entertaining and informative video. Thanks
Thank you thatâs appreciated
Great video Mel mate
Thank you đđđ
Mel. You know you stuff nice work as allways Robbie U K
Thank you đ
Always keep the fuse near the source (the fuse box), if the wire in the vid gets shorted before it reaches the load you could have a fire đ„.
Thank you Iâm sorry I messed up
Hi Mel. On your previous solar install you have used adhesive to glue the solar. I thinking to use same method would you approve or was there any issues please? Thanks
Hi yes itâs all ok as far as I know itâs still on the roof đđđ
Nice vid mel
Thank you Chris really appreciated đđ»đ
This Ctek unit is really good but do you think the ring one you used is better ? Great video and presented better than a pro.
I would definitely use ring over Ctek đđđ
which live feed did you use in the fuse box ///great vid
Iâm sorry I canât remember đ€·ââïž
Great video , just to let you know the eBay link to the battery monitor doesnât work đ
Thank you đ
Hello.I have one question and please help me to understand it .I bought CTEK D250SE for my camper. And now I have to choose battery for my system.when I read recomedations of manifactures they said that below 100 ah you need D250SE with SMARTPASS. Cant i have only D250SE for 110 ah battery system?
Hi Mel Iâve got a 120w solar panel wired to a double controller for my leisure battery I want to wire the second port to my vehicle battery any ideas how I can do this and what wire will I need plus what fuse Iâd appreciate your help mate many thanks
Hay Peter Iâm sorry mate I donât understand the question everything you need to know about the controller you have should be in the manual that came with it good luck đ€
Thanks Mel all Iâm doing is running a cable from my controller to my leisure battery just need to know what size cable I should use
â€ïžđâ€ïžđâ€ïžđ#supportvanlifers
Thank you đ
Any chance you can show where you connected the ignition feed, and how.... I have a vw crafter. many thanks....
Sorry we didnât have this van anymore
Mel, does the âIgnition Feedâ mean constant feed Ie. the Cigarette Lighter?
I donât know đ€·ââïž
Hi Mel, think I enjoyed that ha ha đđ» bit above my level mate. Mel , I have fitted solar 100 wt and run cable into charger control?, then run wire from my engine main battery to battery connector on charger control,so my engine battery will get some charge when standing for long periods . Have I done that right mate, and what happens when I have my engine running and alternator kicks in. Is that ok or do I have to disconnect from main battery when on journeys. Ta mate
Penguin peter đ§đ§
Going by what youâre saying you have joined your main battery to the house battery so yes your solar and alternator will charge both but you will also drain both too you need to separate the batteries with a split charge relay đđ»
So a smart alternator can be used with a lithium iron phosphate battery. Just very confusing to the novice trying to understand charging systems for a leisure battery.
Thanks for the vid đ and have you connected the 12 volt ground of the van to neutral of the dc to ac inverter đ€
Hi Mel,
I have read that the max open circuit voltage from the CTEK is only 23v. How would you wire up say 2 x 100w solar panels in series or parallel? Thanks!!
Hi Kieran I would go Parallel like I have on my van and I got 2 160W panels đđ€đ
Hi There,
Thank you for the video...I'm installing a ctek as a upgraded replacement for a split charge durite system. My query would be, is it ok to run the negative from the ctek to the negative on my leisure battery (which is ground) or would it be best to run the ctek negative to a grounding point on the van. Just fumbling my way through it at the moment and wasn't quite sure.
Also my set up doesn't have a smart alternator so im thinking the thin red wire wouldn't need connecting to anything? Just the black and red one to earth.
Thanks again for your time and effort đ
Iâm not sure without looking at the book and I donât have it to hand at the moment sorry
Hi Mel, I've watched all your videos in the past & just watched this again to find out where to connect the red wire. Unfortunately you didn't show that part, gutted as this is what I wanted to find out? Could you tell me which fuse number you connected the red wire to in the main fuse box above near side wheel arch in the Crafter? Cheers
đ€đ
Hi mate, czcams.com/video/8gu0Th2u2Yg/video.html about the 8 min mark :)
Hi Mel. Nice video
Thank you
Hi Mel, I would like to seek your advise / recommendations re the best SatNav devices.
I am currently planning an extended trip to Europe in my self build Sprinter, I would like to know if you would recommend a dedicated sat-nav device of a Android tablet with GPS running Google Maps ? I am leaning towards a Tablet with GPS and limited wifi connection, what device / model would you recommend ?
I actually use a Tom Tom truck nav I used it for work when I was truck driver I can set hight with and weights of the truck itâs the only one Iâve ever used and itâs great but expensive đ
@@BigVanSmallWorld Thank you. for your reply / advise, please keep up with the excellent videos
Mel, shouldn't the shunt go between the battery neg and all other negs so that it can monitor both charge and discharge current? Ideally fit a main neg busbar and run charge and discharge negs to/from that with the shunt between the busbar and battery neg.
Iâm just going buy what it says in the instructions Iâll have to have another look maybe I missed something thank you đ
Great video Mel, would it not be better to solder a wire into the back of the fuse box and make the connection there
Thank you and no I just wanted to keep it simple
I saw that you used the locking washers and nuts supplied with the batteries, but what about the connections onto the front of the CTek - do these have some sort of locking function too? Another great video thanks.
Hi Ian good point no they donât đ
Hello Mel have you any videos about AC-DC for the campervan cheers
Hi the only AC I have in my van is from the power stations I use Iâm currently using and testing the Bluetti AC200MAX
Hi Mel, do you still recommend your Ring DC to DC charger with solar connections?
Absolutely yes đ
Hey buddy. Good vid. Question what amp rated cabling did you use on the batteries?
16mm 110amp way over the top but safe Ctek recommended 10mm 30amp but I wasnât happy with that as thereâs going to be an inverter added later đđ»
mel..... what kind of screw driver where you useing.........
Looks like you have linked to your shower video and not the Ring video
Oh wonder what happened there Iâll have a look that thanks for letting me know đ
Yay
Thanks buddy
Great vid Mel. Think I understand it but will watch again to make sure. What was the multitool you were using btw
Thank you it was just a Allen key set đđđ
Hi mate what Gage wire did you use and how do you crimp the ends for the mail battery wire ?
Hi I used 16mm 110 amp and use crimping tool đ
11.6volts van battery is low
Agree..... but the multi meter is a very cheap unit, probably not calibrated.
Well spotted
where is that fuse !
Well they didnât say it needed one
The BMV shunt is wired incorrectly
I did it exactly as the diagram shows
@@BigVanSmallWorld negative from dcdc needs to go through shunt
@@keithchad661 Agree, currently the monitor will not function correctly.........
U didnât show âthe hardest partâ. WTF?
Whatâs the hardest part iv got to fit another one soon Iâll make sure I show you if you let me know đ
@@BigVanSmallWorld yes, you identified the ignition connection as the hardest part and then didnât show how or where to connected it.
eh? the because the fuse next to a fuse that is only live with the ignition, it's really "as simple as that?" Come on Mel. You used to try to be as informative as possible where as recently you seem to be making videos that just appear to be making jobs seems simple.
It is simple đ
is this to be only used with a smart alternator ??