Quick & Easy - Making a Dovetail 10 Frame Langstroth Bee Hive using the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig
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- čas přidán 24. 03. 2021
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Some future video ideas that I have of things to make beekeeping related are:
-Oxcalic Acid Vaporizer (Similar to the Provap 110)
-Escape Board (For clearing the Honey Supers for extracting)
-5 Frame Nuc (Both a Dovetail and Staple Methods)
-Top Entrance Shim (Or Oxcalic Acid Treatment Shim (for those of you that don't want to drill the Hive Body or treat through the Entrance))
-Double Screen Board (For placing a weaker colony on top of a stronger colony for overwintering or building Nucs)
About this video:
This video will go through the steps of making a very Easy to make and easy to assemble 10 Frame Deep Langstroth Bee Hive Box using the 4216 Porter Cable Dovetail Jig. Also included are dimensions for a 5 Frame Deep Nuc and 3 Frame Deep Mating Nuc.
I timed how long it took (minus me talking) and it was 1 to 1.25 minutes per side. So approximately 5 minutes to route the dovetails for the entire box. Assembly is even quicker than that, and no drilling for nails required. It virtually self squares also, although I do usually clamp the corners for peace of mind.
This method does require the dovetail jig, router(s) and a means to cut the boards. I use a miter to cut them to length (16.25" for the front and rear, and 19.875" for the sides), and a table saw to cut the depth (9.625").
For the Frame rests, I now use the table saw with a stacked Dado blade, which is also what I use for the Hand holds and for cutting the grooves on the inside for dividers.
You could use a router for the Frame Rests either on a Router Table (as I show in the video) or by clamping a board onto your front and rear piece and routing out the frame rest (requires individual setup for each board. Or you could build a jig to repeat this process.
As always, please take the proper safety precautions when working with any power tools.
This video is for informational purposes only.
I noticed after reviewing the video, that I wrote on the Template 42040 and 42046. These numbers are actually the Template Guide Bushing that pairs with the different Router Bits.
So the part numbers are all correct, they're just for the Guide Bushing, not for the Template.
Box dimensions:
10 FRAME DEEP:
FRONT & BACK - 16.25" X 9.625" X .75" THICK
SIDES - 19.875" X 9.625" X .75" THICK
5(+) FRAME DEEP:
FRONT & BACK - 9.5" X 9.625" X .75" THICK
SIDES - 19.875" X 9.625" X .75" THICK
3(+) FRAME DEEP (MATING NUC):
FRONT & BACK - 6.75" X 9.625" X .75" THICK
SIDES - 19.875" X 9.625" X .75" THICK
Note: Sides are the exact same dimensions for all 3 variations (since this is driven by the Frame length & they are all deeps). For an 8 Frame Hive, you can adjust accordingly.
Also, Since the part of the box that gets the dovetails is the height of the box (9.625" for the deep hive body), once you set up the dovetail jig, you can make all variations of deep hive bodies without needing to setup the jig each time. You could even make an 8 Frame Deep if you choose. If you wanted to make Medium or Shallow Supers, you would need to adjust the stop rail on the dovetail jig to re-position.
Parts list:
I started to try and be an Amazon affiliate, but didn't receive enough traffic, so I believe that has been taken away, but the links should still work, I just don't receive any compensation. The main goal is to provide the part numbers so you know what you need. You could also search the part numbers on Amazon, or otherwise online to try and find the best price.
4216 Porter Cable Dovetail Jig:
amzn.to/3lPUfoh
690LR Router was not available at a normal price, so for now I have included a link for a Dewalt. Once the 690LR is available, I will update the link. Any router in the 1-3/4 HP Range will work fine.
Dewalt DW616
amzn.to/2QJfX1P
If you already have the Dovetail Jig and just need Router Bits and Bushings see below:
43776PC Dovetail Bit (7 degree 17/32"):
amzn.to/3tN0VpU
An Alternative to the 43776PC:
amzn.to/3d96hF3
43743PC 13/32" Straight Bit:
www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-4...
This is an equivalent Bit.
Whiteside Router Bits 1064A Straight Bit with 13/32-Inch Cutting Diameter and 1-Inch Cutting Length
amzn.to/3som8pZ
42040 Template Guide Bushing (for use with Dovetail Bit)
amzn.to/3fekWl0
42046 Template Guide Bushing (for use with Straight Bit)
amzn.to/3tW5wpE
Template Guide Lock Nut (required to tighten the Template Guide Bushing to the Router Base): 42237 (I remember the manual saying 42239, but 42237 is what was included).
amzn.to/3rlyiOL
With the current price of Lumber and the heat in my shop during the warmer months, I had purchased some Hive Bodies for about $0.91 cheaper per each box than what I can build them for myself. That comes with a caveat though......it cost's approximately $3 per box in Nails and screws and the time to assemble those was much more than I thought. I really think I could have built the dovetail design just as fast exactly the way I like them (grooves in the inside for dividers) in about the same amount of time it took me to assemble those purchased boxes. After assembling them with nails, screws, clamps, etc. it really made me appreciate the dovetail design and I think I'd have to save a lot more than $0.91 per box to consider purchasing pre cut boxes again (I'd think about it at around $15 to my door at present time of this comment). I quit using clamps on my dovetail boxes because they really do virtually self square themselves so assembly is very quick.
I have the same jig. Regarding which side of the board one wants 'facing' outwards. Upon cutting the dovetails, face you board toward the jig - for the pins, face the board away from the jig. Lastly, as I fit the pins into the tails, I never set the pin board atop the dove board and drive them as you did - great possibility of splitting - I rock or roll the pin board into the dovetails. Finally, I move my sacrificial board or replace it as I cut either of the joints, for the same reason of mitigating split out.
Made 20 boxes so far, and works great once you get everything dialed in. Also had full depth hit the ground hard with frames - just had to touch up a corner with a little glue - still good-to-go.
I modified slightly - leaving the top pin solid, and using a flush cut saw to take off the 'grooved' tail. Downside is - I usually have to clamp the top to get a nice seal, which slows down the assembly a bit. Suppose I could screw/nail, but I like the 'no fasteners needed' part!
Thanks for sharing!
Sounds like you're knocking them out Michael!
You're exactly right. Once you get it dialed in, it works great.
And I agree with the 'no fasteners needed' aspect of it all. It sure makes assembly a breeze.
Thanks for commenting and letting us know how it's working for you.
That’s the best bee box dovetail tutorial I’ve seen. Very nice job and even described how to deal with the frame holder rabbet cuts and the tail side cuts which, if too small, can create problems. 👍
Hi Eddy, I apologize for the delayed response. I appreciate your comment. I'll hopefully be doing a video on bottom boards and migratory tops soon, as I get ready for next season. Thanks for watching!
Nice looking boxes. I would love to make my hives like that but I would have to buy more equipment so I just make finger joints.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I appreciate that. Absolutely! I hear ya 100%. And obviously Finger joints are tried and tested to work great. I was looking for a way that didn't require all the nails and this is what I came up with. We'll see how they hold up now.
That board is "pithed". The pith, or dead center of the tree is weak and unstable and will cause splitting or warping if used in the project. It is best if you cut that board into two and discard the pith. This is preferred even if you have to rejoin the two boards to get the required width. I like the idea of using dovetails though. I have the same jig. It's time consuming to set up, but you can batch out tons of drawers (or bee hives I suppose) once you get it dialed in.
Thanks for the tip Bruce. That one is painted and mixed in with the batch now, but at least I will know for text time. I like the idea of cutting it out and joining back together without the pith.
The dovetail jig does make quick work of the process. I set it up one time and it's good to go from then on since I only make deeps.
Thanks for watching and contributing!
Very cool this one went viral for you. Great job man 👍
Thank you sir! Appreciate you stopping by!
Thats a good looking jig.
I really like it and have gotten a lot of use out of it. I think if I were to do it again, I'd get one of the more expensive adjustable ones (where you can adjust the dovetail size vs. using standard templates. But this has worked well for me so far. I did end up getting a vacuum attachment so I can hook the dust collector up to it and it has made a HUGE difference in how much sawdust gets on me. I used to dread cutting dovetails, but now it's not bad at all.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for posting. My wood man should start with the boxes sometime next week.
Still pondering putting wood ridge handles on instead of dado. Any thoughts?
I'm also looking into Bob Binnie adding 1/8 depth to the frame groves, "I like the extra headspace". But I can not remember if he was just doing that with Nucs. Hum. Thanks again!
I've always wondered about using wood ridge handles, but was curious how well they stay on, and there really aren't enough people using them to give some reliable results. For the headspace, I use a shim around the inside of my lid. That can easily be adjusted for more or less space to suit your preference. Currently I'm using 1/2". Easily allows for feeding pollen patties and sugar bricks. The only thing I would be worried about cutting 1/8" deeper into the frame rests, is if all of your colonies aren't the same and you try to place swarm cells in, they could hit the bottom and ruin the cell possibly without you knowing. If you don't use swarm cells not a big deal.
Ive got that same jig, used a bit couldn't get the nack for it.
If you have any questions, let me know. I may be able to help. I've got mine on "set it and forget it". So as long as I continue to only make deeps (which is all I run anyway), I don't have to adjust it, or at least not much anyway.
It sure does get you messy though. I asked my wife for the vacuum adjustment for my birthday which is said to cut the sawdust basically out completely. Not sure how true that is, but even if it cuts half of it out, I'd be happy. I hate getting it all over me when I'm building boxes.
If I had the money and could do it over again, I'd probably buy one of the adjustable dovetail jigs (where you can adjust the spacing between dovetails). I think making the dovetails just a little bigger, and being able to position them exactly where I wanted them, would be nice. The Lee dovetail jig is the one I'm thinking of, but it's quite a bit more money....
What size pins are you cutting 1/2 inch ? Will it do 3/4 ?
Hey Jerry, they're probably just a little over 1/2". Unfortunately with this jig, the templates are stationary and I don't believe they make a larger size. Leigh does make a jig that you can space the templates as you wish, but it does cost a bit more. If I could do it over, I would probably buy the Leigh for that reason alone. The porter cable dovetail jig is very easy to setup and use though, so that's a big plus. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Too much overkill on verbal instructions
Thank you for your feedback. I appreciate the comment. I'll try to do less verbal instruction. Or repeating of verbal instruction.
@@TexasBeekeeper sorry about that, being thorough, is good and necessary, I'm just too impatient, and my attention span is too short "/ God Bless you, and thank you for taking the time to teach others a great craft 😀
@@cancelchannel3394 No need to apologize. I appreciate the feedback and am always interested in hearing where I can improve. Thanks for watching and giving feedback.