etrailer | Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2010 Honda CR-V

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Full transcript: www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t...
Today on our 2010 Honda CRV. We're taking a look at installing the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number C55106. Now when we're ready to use our 4-pole flat connector, we're simply going to pull up, remove it from the spare tire area, pull it over the trunk of our vehicle or through the hatch, over that weather seal. This weather is going to be thick enough that it's going to protect your wire. It can start running down to your hitch. Go ahead and close our hatch just like so.
Now you have your 4-pole flat connector down here at your receiver. Now we'll go ahead and open our rear tail gate to start our installation and gain access to the back end of our vehicle. Now we'll go ahead and open up our hood. The only reason we're going to do this is so that we can disconnect the negative side of our batter located right here. We'll go ahead and remove this just for safety precaution before we get started. I'll go ahead and use an open-end wrench to do this, because you want to make sure that you don't use any power tools when you're dealing with the battery.
Use a 10 millimeter socket to loosen it up and remove it. Just set it off to the side, and we'll come back to that later. First thing we're going to do is remove the rear cargo area covers and floor mat, if you have floor mat on the top, and then your spare tire cover which we have here. Next we're going to remove the scuff panel located here. Removing the 2 push pin fasteners and the 2 anchor hooks on either side. Now we'll go ahead and remove our 2 hooks starting first, just like so, and we'll set that off to the side, and pull out our push pin fasteners there.
Pull the center out first. Once we have it popped up, we'll be able to pull those push pin fasteners straight out. We'll go ahead and repeat this same process on the other side, and then we'll remove our scuff panel on the back. Now we'll just gently pull up on the scuff panel to remove it. Once you have it removed, we'll set it off to the side for later installation. Now we'll go ahead and pop up the push pin fastener that right here in the center.
This will allow us to gain access to this back panel and access the vehicle's manufacturer wiring harness. If you need to use a trim tool you can, to pull it out of the way. Now we're going to locate that white connection that's wrapped up in a green tape from the manufacturer. We're going to separate it from that tape so we can make our connection. All right. Once we separated the white connector from the green electrical tape securing it from the manufacturer, we'll be able to make our connection now. Now we'll go ahead and unravel our connector. We'll have our power module here, which we'll take our double-sided tape and we're just going to peel off one side of it. Stick it on to the back. Once we have it stuck on, we'll go ahead and leave the other side on until we find a nice flat surface on the inside to connect it. You'll see that this is going to attach to that white connection that we undid in the back. Push it in until it clicks. We'll run the wires underneath of the 12-volt plug that's already located in the vehicle. Now with our control module down here on the bottom side, we'll go ahead and peel off the other side of the double-sided tape, and we'll adhere this to the bottom side. Make sure that you have plenty of room with your wires. I'll go ahead and use the zip ties provided in the kit to attach that, and make it a cleaner installation. I'll go ahead and cut the tail off that, and I'll go ahead and route our 4-pole wire at the bottom, and put our panel back in place, and just gently tap it to get those fasteners to go in, making sure that the all go in the appropriate hole. Now we'll go ahead and put the push fastener back in the center down here, and I'll go ahead and place our threshold back over the top, making that our 4-pole connection is down in the spare tire of the vehicle. If you need to, you can pull back the weather seal just a little bit, so you can get underneath of it. Push it down into place. With it all down in place and everything sealed up nice, we'll go ahead and reinstall those fasting hooks on the back, as well as those 2 push pins that go down here at the bottom. All right. Now with these hooks, you'll see that it's got a little tab on the bottom. That's going to go in that bottom slot, and anchor it so it doesn't spin on you. Go ahead and tighten it back down and secure it into place. We'll place the push pin fastener back in place. Make sure that you pull up to release it, place it down in the hole, and push down on the cent

[@dennisdrake555]

You forgot to mention you will have to unlock your radio after taking the battery cable off unless you use lighter plug with 9 volt battery to maintain all your setting.

[@alexheritier]

I have a relay module which requires splicing each lamp from the wiring harness - the connector on car you show only has two two wires. How can this operate all the different lamps? If so how ca I get this module please?

[@etrailer]

The factory wiring will plug into this harness and the converter box will distribute the power as needed to the trailer.
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